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Zwift - Bike Question

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Old 12-05-18, 08:54 PM
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Planemaker
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Zwift - Bike Question

I bought a Cyclops Hammer H2 and have spending quality time in my basement on Zwift the last week or so. I paired the trainer with my Trek Domane and while it rides fine, the rear derailleur is slightly off. The fix would be to tune the derailleur to the trainer but, when I wanted to take advantage of a nice day and ride outside I would need to adjust the derailleur to my rear wheel.

I really think the ultimate solution would be to buy a cheap bike and permanently pair it with the trainer. My LBS has a steel Fuji gravel bike that they are willing to sell me at a very reasonable price. Further, I think with some trading, I can get them to change the chainrings from a 42/28 to a 50/34 (I have the rings).

Another reason for doing this is that I have concerns about pairing my expensive carbon frame with the trainer (I know there is no evidence that this could damage the bike but still)

I value the opinion of the 50+ crowd so, what say you?

Is this a dumb idea?
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Old 12-05-18, 08:56 PM
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I would check to see if the cassette on your trainer has the same spacers or cassette as your bike. In other words I would fix the trainer.
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Old 12-06-18, 05:21 AM
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Agree with Jadocs but: I have two bikes, my old Trek 520 and my Domane I bough last year. I put the 520 on the trainer (I have a wheel-on Wahoo Kickr SNAP so don't have the cassette issue,) put on an old slick tire and leave it there for most of the year as my "trainer" bike.

This way the only time I'm carrying the bike to/from the basement is the rare times over the summer when I'm going to do a tour on the 520 - I ride the Domane most of the time, including over the winter when the weather is nice enough - though Zwift has made me soft and my definition of "nice" is now warmer/sunnier than it used to be...

If I didn't have the 520, I think I would buy a used beater bike to be my trainer bike - assuming I had the money.
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Old 12-06-18, 09:05 AM
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The critical spacing is between the inside of the dropout and the first cog. If it is too wide you should add a spacer to the back of the cassette so that it is moved closer to the frame when the locknut is tightened. If it is already too close, you'll have to swap the last spacer with a narrower one. I would look to increments of .2mm either way. You could also add the spacer to the wheel if the trainer cassette is closer to make the wheel line up with the trainer instead. .2mm doesn't sound like much but it could be the difference between perfect and noisy. I'm assuming that you have like to like cassettes, 11sp to 11sp or 10sp to 10sp. And if you have 10sp you will need a much larger spacer in the back of the cassette. I think it was 1.8mm to make up for the missing cog and space.

I use my carbon bike on my Kickr, I never gave it a thought. There is less stress on a trainer than on the road.
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Old 12-07-18, 09:54 AM
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One other thing you could try. If the rear der is only slightly off on the trainer you may be able to split the difference and line it up so that it works on both wheel and trainer without issue. There is a little tolerance there. Maybe keep the wheel silent and allow a little noise on the trainer that could be fixed with a tap to the shifter, but just maybe.

I'm still assuming like to like cassettes though, both speed and brand. Don't expect a Campy 10 drivetrain to work with Shimano 10. Sram usually works with Shimano, but not always. All 11sp is workable together although they still differ ever so slightly.

I never understood the need for 11 speed. Was 10 really not enough? And there is 12 speed now too...
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Old 12-07-18, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by jadocs View Post
I would check to see if the cassette on your trainer has the same spacers or cassette as your bike. In other words I would fix the trainer.
Yep, that's what I did. I respaced my trainer's hub/cassette to match my road bike's.
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Old 12-07-18, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by jadocs View Post
I would check to see if the cassette on your trainer has the same spacers or cassette as your bike. In other words I would fix the trainer.
This. It should just be a matter of adding or removing a spacer.
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Old 12-07-18, 03:01 PM
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It seems that this could dealt with by a turn or two of the RD cable barrel adjuster. Just remember to turn it back the other way when you put your wheel on and go for a ride IRL. (I do this when I switch from my training/commuting wheelset to my race wheels. Takes two seconds, not a big deal, once you've got it figured out for each set.)
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Old 12-07-18, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by caloso View Post
It seems that this could dealt with by a turn or two of the RD cable barrel adjuster. Just remember to turn it back the other way when you put your wheel on and go for a ride IRL. (I do this when I switch from my training/commuting wheelset to my race wheels. Takes two seconds, not a big deal, once you've got it figured out for each set.)
I've got eTAP.
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Old 12-07-18, 06:07 PM
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OK, so the trainer and bike went the LBS today.

- Loose RD hanger
- Worn chain
- Trashed BB
- Fine tuning by the mechanic for the wheel to shift perfectly and now I have acceptable shifting with the trainer

I kind of shocked that the LBS got this done in and out in four hours. Although, I do spend a fair bit of money there
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Old 12-07-18, 07:03 PM
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Wow. Great service!
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