Originally Posted by caloso

There are a number of smart trainers that do what you describe. This blog will tell you everything you'd ever want to know about them. https://www.dcrainmaker.com/2019/10/...2019-2020.html

As for smart rollers, rather than a trainer that holds your bike, I think your choices are more limited.

I use Zwift and have spent a lot more time on it this summer than I would have expected--due to the pandemic and the poor air quality from the fires. I have a "dumb" trainer, in that it does not change the resistance in response to the game, if I want more resistance, I have to either spin up or gear down. But I don't feel like I'm missing much. The Zwift interface is very immersive, especially if you cast it to a big screen.

I have signed up for a structured workout plan in Zwift. I realize that I am not going to get the same benefits as I would from a private coach, but the main benefit for me is the structure. And the time goes quickly on a structured workout as you are always trying to hit the wattage and cadence targets. I recommend it.

Originally Posted by rednose

Dear Fellow Riders,

popping here again. Is there any workable answer or "link" to the topic dumb trainer and power anybody is aware of? It seems to me impossible nobody tried to sort it out.

I try to better explain myself:
1) in such "covid times" second hand "smart" trainer prices are out of mind (well at least here in Germany where I live ....)
2) hence I want to keep using my 20 years old super cheap dumb trainer. It is magnetic.
3) it has 15 "steps" or so to increase resistance. After 20 years I can't trust its consistency though ....
4) I use zwift, where the trainer it is naturally not known/supported. In zwift there is no spin down calibration
5) Hence I'd like to draw my dumb trainer specific power curve, well at least some of it (I do not beleive I'll ever user the resistance at its extremes ... the easiest or the hardest)
6) Here is where I get stuck. Knowing the gear I'm using, RPM, the wheel size, the spin down time and assuming the resistance of the bearings (complete rear wheel is new) It should be possible to calculate the watt that have been applied .... well a good estimate

Ideas? :-D

r

Originally Posted by gthomson

When I first started Zwifting a few years back I was using a dumb CycleOps trainer, older model and when I did the pairing, Zwift didn't have my exact model so I chose one very similar and was able to pair. Have you tried that?

I assume you have the speed and cadence sensors for your bike?

Keep in mind, without a true power meter on your bike (smart or dumb trainer) you are using Zwift Power which is a calculated number generated by Zwift based on your wheel size, model of trainer and your weight. Lots of articles out there disputing it's accuracy compared to riding outside using a real power meter.

I personally find it exaggerated when I ride on Zwift compared to my outdoor rides, so not sure it's taking into consideration my level (25) and the fake bike I'm riding? (Pinarello Dogma F8).

Originally Posted by gthomson

When I first started Zwifting a few years back I was using a dumb CycleOps trainer, older model and when I did the pairing, Zwift didn't have my exact model so I chose one very similar and was able to pair. Have you tried that?

I assume you have the speed and cadence sensors for your bike?

Keep in mind, without a true power meter on your bike (smart or dumb trainer) you are using Zwift Power which is a calculated number generated by Zwift based on your wheel size, model of trainer and your weight. Lots of articles out there disputing it's accuracy compared to riding outside using a real power meter.

I personally find it exaggerated when I ride on Zwift compared to my outdoor rides, so not sure it's taking into consideration my level (25) and the fake bike I'm riding? (Pinarello Dogma F8).

Originally Posted by zacster

I did the same for about three quarters of an indoor season and then got a power meter. I found that not only were the numbers exaggerated, but the trainer itself would warm up after about half an hour and get harder. I could do shorter sessions and feel like I was doing really well, but longer sessions always sagged. When they exceeded an hour I found I could barely get through them. But the bottom line was I still was in kick-ass shape by the spring.

Originally Posted by caloso

My old Nashbar trainer was like that. It seemed like the fluid inside would thicken up after it got warm.

Originally Posted by zacster

I did the same for about three quarters of an indoor season and then got a power meter. I found that not only were the numbers exaggerated, but the trainer itself would warm up after about half an hour and get harder. I could do shorter sessions and feel like I was doing really well, but longer sessions always sagged. When they exceeded an hour I found I could barely get through them. But the bottom line was I still was in kick-ass shape by the spring.