Woo hoo, best wheelbuild ever!!
#1
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Woo hoo, best wheelbuild ever!!
Just had to crow!
I just finished rebuilding the rear wheel for my tandem. It's a dishless wheel with a Hadley hub, Velocity Dyad rim and 40 DT Alpine spokes crossed four.
Final trueing required NO adjustment for dish, NO adjustment for radial runout and only 2 minor (1mm) side-to-side wobbles.
I just finished rebuilding the rear wheel for my tandem. It's a dishless wheel with a Hadley hub, Velocity Dyad rim and 40 DT Alpine spokes crossed four.
Final trueing required NO adjustment for dish, NO adjustment for radial runout and only 2 minor (1mm) side-to-side wobbles.
#2
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Carpe who?
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#3
I need more cowbell.
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
Just had to crow!
I just finished rebuilding the rear wheel for my tandem. It's a dishless wheel with a Hadley hub, Velocity Dyad rim and 40 DT Alpine spokes crossed four.
Final trueing required NO adjustment for dish, NO adjustment for radial runout and only 2 minor (1mm) side-to-side wobbles.
I just finished rebuilding the rear wheel for my tandem. It's a dishless wheel with a Hadley hub, Velocity Dyad rim and 40 DT Alpine spokes crossed four.
Final trueing required NO adjustment for dish, NO adjustment for radial runout and only 2 minor (1mm) side-to-side wobbles.
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#5
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I'm with DG...it does sound good. I know what rebuild the wheel is but the parts are greek or french er sumthin' But hey, I'm still trying to figure out what clipless is...
#6
Senior Member
Oh, that's easy, Metric Man. Clipless means you got clips. Clear?
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Some people are like a Slinky ... not really good for anything, but you still can't help but smile when you shove them down the stairs.
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#7
Pedaled too far.
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That's wonderful. You use a tensiometer I assume. I've built wheels using the tuning fork method, but I used pitch pipes. It lasted 2 years, not bad for a beginner. I first aligned everything by aligning it using only hand-tightening of the nipples, and then when I got it right, then I worked on tightening it without letting things shift too much.
What did you do this time different than previously?
What did you do this time different than previously?
#8
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
Just had to crow!
I just finished rebuilding the rear wheel for my tandem. It's a dishless wheel with a Hadley hub, Velocity Dyad rim and 40 DT Alpine spokes crossed four.
Final trueing required NO adjustment for dish, NO adjustment for radial runout and only 2 minor (1mm) side-to-side wobbles.
I just finished rebuilding the rear wheel for my tandem. It's a dishless wheel with a Hadley hub, Velocity Dyad rim and 40 DT Alpine spokes crossed four.
Final trueing required NO adjustment for dish, NO adjustment for radial runout and only 2 minor (1mm) side-to-side wobbles.
- Wil
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Congratulations on your successful wheel build. There are some days when everything just seems to go right. I haven't gotten up the nerve to build a wheel yet. I've got a great set of Ultegra/Mavic CXP33s on my Lemond and they've held up beautifully, no trueing needed in over three years and I'm 220#+. They were built at Colorado Cyclist.
#10
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So, how long you been building wheels? I'm thinking of giving it a try. Meanwhile, I'm feeling pretty good about myself after re-dishing the rear wheel for my fixed gear conversion without it looking like a taco.
#11
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Originally Posted by Artkansas
That's wonderful. You use a tensiometer I assume. I've built wheels using the tuning fork method, but I used pitch pipes. It lasted 2 years, not bad for a beginner. I first aligned everything by aligning it using only hand-tightening of the nipples, and then when I got it right, then I worked on tightening it without letting things shift too much.
What did you do this time different than previously?
What did you do this time different than previously?
I think that the biggest key is starting with good components. The Dyad rim that i used, for example, must have been very round when I got it. That's a luck of the draw thing. Other than that, I laced the spokes, tightened them until I had about the same number of spoke threads showing and then slooowly brought the tension up 1/2 turn at a time. I knew it was going good when I only had to make very minor tension adjustments to bring all of the spokes equal on my tensiometer. Before I put the wheel on my trueing stand I held the axle in my hand and gave it a spin. I could tell then that I had a dandy.
I'm stoked!
#12
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Originally Posted by Nermal
Oh, that's easy, Metric Man. Clipless means you got clips. Clear?
#13
Time for a change.
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It is great you achieve something that your skills will let you do. When the end product turns out just that bit better than you expected it to be- then it is time to find the pie shop and celebrate. I am a mechanic and the only bit I do not do myself is wheel building. I will retrue wheels and replace spokes but I have a wheel builder that is excellent. When i see the final product that he comes up with- and use it- then I would rather pay him than struggle to get a wheel to his perfection, and not succeed.
Well done on the build- but where's the pics.
Well done on the build- but where's the pics.
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#14
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That's awesome. I'd need to apprentise to someone to learn how to build a wheel.
I just "trued" my first wheel using the brake pad appraoch. It's probably as round as an egg but I can adjust the brake pads in tight to the wheel without either side scraping.
I just "trued" my first wheel using the brake pad appraoch. It's probably as round as an egg but I can adjust the brake pads in tight to the wheel without either side scraping.
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See my Hyperlite 411 it's the photo model on OutRiderUSA web page
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