Seat to handlebar height
#1
Grumpy Old Bugga
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Seat to handlebar height
I'm riding a Trek520 - 2007 model ... with BRIFTERS (it's the US model, I had them fitted when I bought her).
Yeah, I'm bragging, but at nearly a thousand kms down the track, I still love the brute ... and the pain of paying for her has well and truly worn off
Thanks to the combination of my height and the standard bits on the bike, the handlebars are 50mm (2") below the seat - the steering tube hasn't been cut and I'm still using the standard neck. It's where I've wound up. However, rather than getting used to this, I'm starting to notice the drop more and more.
Yes, I realise it's a very mild drop, but this bike has to fit my aging and overweight body and that 50mm is becoming noticeable - to me, that says it's too much (I've got this weird idea that the bike has to be changed to fit me, not me morphed to suit it ... something salesmen in bike shops seem not to understand). I tend to ride on the hoods with frequent movements around the bars, often trying to ride with my hands raised from the bars and just my finger tips in contact with the bars (this doesn't work but it reinforces my belief that the body is looking for a more upright position). Getting down onto the hooks is uncomfortable and used only for head winds, high speed and when I want full braking (like riding down that mountain near here).
So, before I go attempting to find a neck that'll raise the bars, I'd like some thoughts on how high to lift them. By definition, this will all be subjective, but what works for you? Bars at seat height (like I've spent the last thirty years riding)? Bars just below the seat (I could lift them an inch and still be an inch below the seat)?
Richard
then comes the fun and games of actually trying to source the new neck
Yeah, I'm bragging, but at nearly a thousand kms down the track, I still love the brute ... and the pain of paying for her has well and truly worn off
Thanks to the combination of my height and the standard bits on the bike, the handlebars are 50mm (2") below the seat - the steering tube hasn't been cut and I'm still using the standard neck. It's where I've wound up. However, rather than getting used to this, I'm starting to notice the drop more and more.
Yes, I realise it's a very mild drop, but this bike has to fit my aging and overweight body and that 50mm is becoming noticeable - to me, that says it's too much (I've got this weird idea that the bike has to be changed to fit me, not me morphed to suit it ... something salesmen in bike shops seem not to understand). I tend to ride on the hoods with frequent movements around the bars, often trying to ride with my hands raised from the bars and just my finger tips in contact with the bars (this doesn't work but it reinforces my belief that the body is looking for a more upright position). Getting down onto the hooks is uncomfortable and used only for head winds, high speed and when I want full braking (like riding down that mountain near here).
So, before I go attempting to find a neck that'll raise the bars, I'd like some thoughts on how high to lift them. By definition, this will all be subjective, but what works for you? Bars at seat height (like I've spent the last thirty years riding)? Bars just below the seat (I could lift them an inch and still be an inch below the seat)?
Richard
then comes the fun and games of actually trying to source the new neck
#2
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I have my bars about even with the seat, perhaps a little higher. If they were 2" below I would be very uncomfortable. If I were a racer I would feel differently about it.
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It sounds like you changed the height very dramatically from even to the seat to 2" below. Any change of this magnitude could cause discomfort. I would suggest setting th bike up to have the bars even with the seat, and then see if solves the fit problem. You could then mack changes to lower the bars if desired.
Another thought might be the reach you are now making to get to the bars. I have two road bikes, but one, set up for fast road rides, has a 2 inch lower bar than my everyday bike. Fit is a complex issue. If you can get to a good bike shop, maybe they can do a compete check.
I envy you, and the mileage you are putting on.
Another thought might be the reach you are now making to get to the bars. I have two road bikes, but one, set up for fast road rides, has a 2 inch lower bar than my everyday bike. Fit is a complex issue. If you can get to a good bike shop, maybe they can do a compete check.
I envy you, and the mileage you are putting on.
#4
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Originally Posted by mcalpik
It sounds like you changed the height very dramatically from even to the seat to 2" below. Any change of this magnitude could cause discomfort. I would suggest setting th bike up to have the bars even with the seat, and then see if solves the fit problem. You could then mack changes to lower the bars if desired.
Another thought might be the reach you are now making to get to the bars. I have two road bikes, but one, set up for fast road rides, has a 2 inch lower bar than my everyday bike. Fit is a complex issue. If you can get to a good bike shop, maybe they can do a compete check.
I envy you, and the mileage you are putting on.
Another thought might be the reach you are now making to get to the bars. I have two road bikes, but one, set up for fast road rides, has a 2 inch lower bar than my everyday bike. Fit is a complex issue. If you can get to a good bike shop, maybe they can do a compete check.
I envy you, and the mileage you are putting on.
The whole bike was set up via a full bike fit when new. Funnily enough, it's been the handlebars that have copped the most messing about to get right - not in height because there's not much I can do about them without changing bits, but in angle and brifter position. It turned out I needed to add some padding in behind the brifters to fill a hollow in the angle between the brifters and the bars. But that's another issue. Reach is a consideration and yes, once I've got my thoughts cleared about height, I'll be going back to that shop, having a yarn with the fitter, and looking at both height and reach.
Richard
incidentally, I couldn't bear to see my beloved Europa just sitting in the shed forgotten ... so I converted her to a fixie
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Originally Posted by europa
So, before I go attempting to find a neck that'll raise the bars, I'd like some thoughts on how high to lift them. By definition, this will all be subjective, but what works for you? Bars at seat height (like I've spent the last thirty years riding)? Bars just below the seat (I could lift them an inch and still be an inch below the seat)?
Richard
then comes the fun and games of actually trying to source the new neck
Richard
then comes the fun and games of actually trying to source the new neck
Mine are 1" below saddle height and that works great for me. I had to raise them 2" from stock to get there. Sounds like you have a threadless steerer. Are there any spacers above your stem? Can you reverse the stem to raise the bars? If they are already set to slant up and if all your spacers are already below the stem, then you'll need a new stem to raise the bars. What is so scary about finding a new stem?
(I would have kept the bar end shifters)
#6
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Originally Posted by BluesDawg
What is so scary about finding a new stem?
Sadly, while the above was a rant, it's an accurate description of the bike industry in Australia. I was lucky, I stumbled over a bike shop with the rather quaint notion that the rider has some idea about what he wants.
So yeah, finding a new stem (which is what I need) is going to be a challenge and will probably wind up being imported from your enlightened country.
Seems pretty obvious to me. You rode comfortably for 30 years with the bars level with the saddle. Now your bars are 2" below the saddle and you are uncomfortable. Hmm, what to do?
Richard
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+1 on the possibility of turning the stem upside down if you haven't already. Most drop bar setups as delivered have the stem angled so that it is level with the ground. Turning it upside down will cause it to angle up and raise the bars an inch or so. This is a relatively normal position for 50+ where you may not wish to have your back stretched on the rack.
This will not work for a quill stem, only a threadless. I'm hoping that since the bike is relatively new that the latter is true.
This will not work for a quill stem, only a threadless. I'm hoping that since the bike is relatively new that the latter is true.
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I took a look on Trek's website. You have a pretty steeply angled stem, 17 degrees. The site photo shows the bars tilted down quite a bit. If yours are like that, tilt them up, move the shifters down farther on the radius of the bars and rewrap the bars. If that's been done, what about a stem riser? They are ugly as heck, but, it would raise the bars. The only other solution would be a new, uncut fork.
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Originally Posted by DanS
If that's been done, what about a stem riser? They are ugly as heck, but, it would raise the bars. The only other solution would be a new, uncut fork.
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I have two stems on my road bike. The first is with no rise. The second is with a 10 degree rise. I switch them back and forth, dependent on the weather. (With a removable face plate, this is quite easy to do... all things considered.) When the weather is cold, my back doesn't like being bent over quite as far. Hence, in cold weather riding I switch to the 10 degree rise stem. In warm weather I use the other. With the straight stem the seat is slightly above the bars. The stem with 10 degrees rise puts the bars and seat even. Never been much a fan of riding with my arse higher than my elbows. If I were in your situation, I'd probably do some e-bay scouting to see if I could pick up some additional stems to give me some options in setup.
#11
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I have a stem riser as well,and I would not be able to ride if I didn't use it. That's the trade off if I can ride or not. Sometimes you have to put looks aside to get comfort. The name of the riser is Satori, and it's called Heads-up 2 or 4. Good luck with the new bike, I looked at them, but the dropbars scared me off.
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#12
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Originally Posted by europa
Hell, Trek themselves (not the bike shop) weren't overly interested in selling me the 520 and most Trek dealers pretend it doesn't exist or rubbish the model (gotta have a real bike ya know, something made out of beer cans and plastic with the handlebars just above the bottom bracket). This cracks me up !!! Hurrumph. [/rant]
Ok.
I'm just kicking around the idea of a bike thats good for loaded touring or unloaded supported touring and the thought of a 520 with the bars real high appealed to me. The bad part is when I decide I want to buy a new something I probably will. My wife figures its cheaper than buying new shotguns or a new plane.
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Until my body started changing- I used to do the important rides with the stem flipped to put the bars a couple of inches below the saddle. For a normal ride- the bars would be raised again for comfort and not efficiency. Can't do that now and just last week I bought a new stem to raise the bars on a level with the saddle on my road bike. For 2" though you may be looking for a stem riser- or a long adjustable stem. I feel certain that others will be able to post pics of their "comfort" modifications to bar height so see what some have managed easily.
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To me, a 2" drop would be torture. My tops are level with the saddle on my 520. As far as being enlightened, well, that's debatable. But, we do have a rather cutting edge bike industry. Unfortunately, that sometimes doesn't translate into a common sense set up for off the rack new bikes. The last time I looked at a new Trek 520, it was set up like the OP described. Stupid, IMO. It's a tour machine with relaxed geometry. What are they thinking?
OP: can you get an adjustable stem down there? It would allow you to fine tune the position. Then you could take your time ordering a permanent replacement from the Land of Light and Magic.
OP: can you get an adjustable stem down there? It would allow you to fine tune the position. Then you could take your time ordering a permanent replacement from the Land of Light and Magic.
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Europa: A couple of suggestions. First, if you can, I suggest you try to beg, borrow or steal an adjustable stem from a local bike shop. That way you could find out exactly how high you want the bars relative to your saddle. If that is not possible you will have to dust off your high school math and shop for a new stem that will raise your bars to the level you think will work. Stems are listed by length and angle of rise. Steering tube and handle bars vary in diameter so watch for that.
I am currently looking to raise the bars on my new bike to at, or no less than an inch below the saddle. One place where I found a complete lineup of available stems was the Harris Cyclery website. https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/index.html Click on "Parts" and then "Stems". They list everything they can order which may help you find what you need. After that, I guess you will have to shop around and see if someone in Adelaide can order it or if you have get one from the U.S. On that point, I have found that things arrive in Canada faster from the U.K. than from the States. Go figure
I am currently looking to raise the bars on my new bike to at, or no less than an inch below the saddle. One place where I found a complete lineup of available stems was the Harris Cyclery website. https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/index.html Click on "Parts" and then "Stems". They list everything they can order which may help you find what you need. After that, I guess you will have to shop around and see if someone in Adelaide can order it or if you have get one from the U.S. On that point, I have found that things arrive in Canada faster from the U.K. than from the States. Go figure
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Originally Posted by europa
I was lucky, I stumbled over a bike shop with the rather quaint notion that the rider has some idea about what he wants.
So yeah, finding a new stem (which is what I need) is going to be a challenge and will probably wind up being imported from your enlightened country.
Richard
So yeah, finding a new stem (which is what I need) is going to be a challenge and will probably wind up being imported from your enlightened country.
Richard
#17
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I had a chat with the shop that sold me the bike. Typically, they listened and went looking for solutions (the bloke who looks after me is not only a gun racer but coaches several racers, including the local junior champion ... but he still understands us overweight, old gits ).
We looked at stem risers, but the ones they had in stock, which were supposed to fit my steering tube (according to the label), don't.
Then he went digging on the internet. Found a BBB neck with a 35 degree rise (stock is 17). Rang the distributor. Yep, they've got one in stock, in a choice of reaches. So we decided on the reach I'll need and it'll be here next week
So yes, I'm going to be comfy. Yay
Then we talked chainrings. I want to replace the 30 tooth with a 26. Yep, not only can they get them, but that'll be here next week as well (Shimano insist they don't exist ... which is probably why this is another brand). On that subject, while this change will suit me as a largely unladen rider, anyone buying a new Trek520 should seriously consider changing to an mtb chainring setup at purchase.
So it's all looking good.
And thanks for the thoughts and experiences about heights - it's comforting to realise I'm not alone.
Richard
We looked at stem risers, but the ones they had in stock, which were supposed to fit my steering tube (according to the label), don't.
Then he went digging on the internet. Found a BBB neck with a 35 degree rise (stock is 17). Rang the distributor. Yep, they've got one in stock, in a choice of reaches. So we decided on the reach I'll need and it'll be here next week
So yes, I'm going to be comfy. Yay
Then we talked chainrings. I want to replace the 30 tooth with a 26. Yep, not only can they get them, but that'll be here next week as well (Shimano insist they don't exist ... which is probably why this is another brand). On that subject, while this change will suit me as a largely unladen rider, anyone buying a new Trek520 should seriously consider changing to an mtb chainring setup at purchase.
So it's all looking good.
And thanks for the thoughts and experiences about heights - it's comforting to realise I'm not alone.
Richard
#19
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The one that came on Fuji has a 40 degree rise or drop adjustable. It is Fuji brand. It snugs up tight as can be, and has really worked well for me after shoulder surgery. Somebody somewhere has one for sale, I'm sure.
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Originally Posted by Monoborracho
The one that came on Fuji has a 40 degree rise or drop adjustable. It is Fuji brand. It snugs up tight as can be, and has really worked well for me after shoulder surgery. Somebody somewhere has one for sale, I'm sure.
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#21
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Stapfam...when I got back to riding in December I cut 1.5 inches off each end of the flat bars to bring them to shoulder width and also lowered them about 2 or 3 inches. All now wrapped in a light blue handlebar wrap that looks good...both the flats and the bar ends. After some good miles last week my back was hurting. Took the allen wrench with me yesterday for a 20 miler at lunch and by the time I get back the bars were back up to level with no back pain. They are now back to level as shown in the picture when bike was new about a year ago. What was I thinking in the first place, lowering them like I did?
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Last edited by Monoborracho; 03-10-07 at 12:22 AM.
#25
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This must be the old fart's forum - we start by discussing bike fit and wind up with Cher
Richard
who has never decided what was more impressive, that film clip or the trouble it caused in the US
Richard
who has never decided what was more impressive, that film clip or the trouble it caused in the US