When I rode Brooks Pros yyears ago I experimented with using more Proofide v. less. Multiple coats did not do much good compared to the improvment in surface texture I got with one coat.

I also found that Proofide is not a waterproofer. It did not keep my saddle from absorbing water.

What did it really do? Well I guess I don't really know. But I would rather use something innocuous than something that could make the leather collapse.

I did think the leather felt better after I used it.

Correct. Proofide is not a waterproofing compound. It only in imparts water resistance. I use SnoSeal, as it is only beeswax, and contans no animal, vegetable or petroleum oils. Beeswax cannot soften hide leather, no matter how much you apply, so the chances of over-conditioning are nil. The worse that can happen is that you may get a stickiness to the saddle - which is undesireable in a Brooks. I only apply it on the underside of an oven-warmed saddle, letting body heat and motion slowly wick it up thru in the ensuing weeks of use. I only have to do this once, with a little clear boot polish on top every now and again. Even this does not completely waterproof the leather.

Only silicones will do this. But, they will cmopletely destroy the wicking action of the hide, which is the hallmark of leather saddles and is the real reason they are so comfortable. Seal the pores, and you have a plastic Brooks.
http://i15.tinypic.com/2efhw81.jpg

Correct. Proofide is not a waterproofing compound. It only in imparts water resistance. I use SnoSeal, as it is only beeswax, and contans no animal, vegetable or petroleum oils. Beeswax cannot soften hide leather, no matter how much you apply, so the chances of over-conditioning are nil. The worse that can happen is that you may get a stickiness to the saddle - which is undesireable in a Brooks. I only apply it on the underside of an oven-warmed saddle, letting body heat and motion slowly wick it up thru in the ensuing weeks of use. I only have to do this once, with a little clear boot polish on top every now and again. Even this does not completely waterproof the leather.

Only silicones will do this. But, they will completely destroy the wicking action of the hide, which is the hallmark of leather saddles and is the real reason they are so comfortable. Seal the pores, and you have a plastic Brooks.
http://i15.tinypic.com/2efhw81.jpg

after continuing to research this, i ended up ordering one of these to try:

http://www.bycycleinc.com/

i had a chat with the inventor, and i was impressed with his knowledge of anatomy and the thought he put into the saddle. might be a bust, but we shall see.

at some point i'm definitely going to try the brooks or the selle anotomica.

the latest "rivendell reader" has a favorable article on the selle, and rivendell has always been big brooks fans.

i really appreciate everyone's help and input!

I know this has almost turned into a Brooks thread, but I have a Terry question. I bought a Terry Fly from e-bay and it came with absolutely no instructions on how to care for the leather. Does anyone know what Terry recommends?

Lexol makes good products for the care of leather. It can usually be found at tack shops (used on horse saddles and the like). Back to the saddle question--I ride an older model Terry Liberator Sport that I really like-looks like the Liberator Ti Race, or the Falcon might be close to it. ANd WTB saddles have gotten good recommendations lately. One of the LBS around here has WTB loaners-think they are marked as loaners, so you'd want to return them. Might see if a LBS has, or can get them, to try.