It actually isn't a lot higher for bikes sold through bike shops. When I said less than 10% overall, I was being a bit generous, the number from all bike outlets is actually less than 5%. From bike shops it runs around 10%-12% on average. If a shop specializes in high end bikes then it could be much higher. But as the average bike sold through a bike shop sells for around $400-$450, that isn't a lot of high-end bikes.

Even for most bike shops, their bread & butter bike is the hybrid, next comes mountain bikes.

I think the current figure for the number of people in the USA who ride a bike at least 6 times a year is 43 million. Even out of this group, which excludes all of the people who own bikes but almost never ride them, the percentage riding drop bar road bikes is low. I'd guess maybe 3-4 million of these riders are on drop bars.

For example, I work at the University of Wisconsin in the bike friendly city of Madison. Thousands of students ride to campus on bikes. But when I walk past the bike racks only about 5% of them have drop bars.

Now if you limit this population to say those who ride a bike on 50 mile rides at least three times a year, then the pct on drop bars would go way up. Although I think that pct would still be fairly low if the criteria were 20 mile rides. A lot of people take 20 mile rides on trails with hybrids and mountain bikes.

Do not panic. Shorter rides are in order to aclimate your body to a new position. 1000's of miles on a flatbar then switching to a new position without some discomfort is rare. As an rider of multiple bikes it even takes a bit of time when swithching bikes to become totally comfortable due to small differences in riding position.

Amen Tom. Like the TdF riders are representative of the 50+ riding crowd. They aren't representative of anyone in the normal world. They are small, super strength to wt ratios, and young bodies. Nothing wrong with triples, flatbars, nor comfortable saddles for the rest of us. Riding should be a pleasure and not a trainwreck feeling. What ever gets you up the hill comfortably and has you wanting to do it again.

Say what you will....whatever gets people on the road and keeps them there. Personally, a 3 or 4 hour weekend ride on a flat bar would have me in pain-- mental and physical. I find a drop bar far more conducive to a feeling of grace, speed, and comfort. Most of Tom's gazillions of flat bar bike purchasers buy bikes but don't ride bikes as long or hard as many here do. Lots of those bikes sit in garages much of their life or hang from rafters. An English 3 speed or a flat bar hybrid would please me for cruising around town. But most of my riding is out past the city limit sign. Unless there is a specific injury or disability or physical "condition", 50 year old bodies can adapt to a lot more stress than a drop bar position if trained to do so-- and if there's a desire to do so. Again personally, I think it worth sticking with just to see if one's final preference is for dropped bars.

Exactly. And the OP rode 45 miles testing a new setup. What most people on college campuses or rail trails choose is no more of a valid comparison than what elite racers do. The majority of riders I see on 50+ mile rides are on drop bar bikes. That percentage goes way up when you filter out those doing so for the first time.
Why are people who ride longer distances more likely to choose drop bars? Because for most people riding longer distances, drop bars are more comfortable.

Mirror mirror on the wall.
Flat bar Drop bar, stem too tall.
Should I raise my saddle or am I too low?
Helmet or not, I don't know.

Should my bike be white?
Should my jersey be bright?
Should my feet clip in?
Should my tires be thin?

Where to turn to?
Where to go?
Who do I listen to?
Does anyone know?

Is this bike good?
Is that one toast?
I know what to do.
Write a 50+ post.

Almost all of the advice here is good. Read it and try as much as possible. Getting a bike to fit well takes some time and is the result of solving one small problem at a time. Ride up on the top of the bar for a while (this is the position you are used to) and get the saddle height/bar height and stem reach right. Now you baseline is back to where you know. Remember that the hoods and drops are a lot further out then the flat bar was so the control group may have to me moved back toward you a little. Ride a little more and do not make hasty judgements about love/hate of the position. However once you have decided, do not let the opinions of others dictate what you like. As you have discovered there are a multitude of opinions (take a poll of opinions, there will be one more than the number of posters, this is a variation of the N+1 theory).

Please see the drop bar/flat bar poll at:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=338544

That is total nonsense. And I agree totally.

Hi,
1) the drops are for going fast. Most of use don't use them much.
2) Add a couple spacers under the stem
3) strengthen your core muscles, the back, stomach
4) warm up gently
5) stretch after

Raise Dat Stem!

by Bob Gordon

A flat back is one of the hallmarks of an experienced cyclist, particularly a racer, and over the years I have seen the prevailing attitudes towards rider positioning devolve to the point where if you don't cycle with your back parallel to the ground, you're cast off as a beginner.

But like many other concepts recreational riders adopt, the low back originated in the professional ranks after extensive research in aerodynamics proved this would help the fast go faster. Competitive athletes routinely sacrifice both their short and long term health for the express purpose of winning, but you may have a different agenda.

Lower back disc problems peak the ages of 30 and 50. There are many causes, but if your back pain is exacerbated by riding, it's a good bet the cause is bouncing around on your bike while your lower spine is extensively flexed (loss of lower back arch). A low, forward torso causes the inner portion of the disc (the nucleus purposes) to press back against the outer restraining fibers (the annulus fibroses). This pressure eventually causes the disc to bulge or herniate. The nearby nerves get squeezed, and the next thing you know, someone like me is telling you you have sciatica.

Cycling mitigates some of the problems of a habitually flexed lumbar spine because of the "bridge effect" that's created by resting some of your weight on your hands. But the lumbar region and its soft tissues are still at risk just by being continuously hyper flexed, and if you sit all day at your job, the danger is compounded.

On the flip side, cycling entirely upright does not solve the problem either. True, the inter-vertebral discs and spinal ligaments are in a more neutral position and absorb shock better, but the load is now transmitted axially, which is fatiguing and jarring. Also, in a bolt-upright position you can't use your gluteus or hamstrings to great advantage, which means your thighs (quadriceps) get overworked, you lose a lot of power, the unused hamstrings and gluteal muscles go flabby, and you catch all that wind. It's hard to be happy about all that, racer or no.

There is, however, a position that allows good performance while minimizing risk of lower back injury. I like a stem height and length that puts your back about 50 degrees from horizontal, while your arms and legs bend slightly at the elbows, as shown in figure 2 up there. To achieve this, you'll probably have to raise your bars, and assuming you want to keep the same bar style (as opposed to riding with stingray bars or something), that usually means getting another stem, one with a taller quill or a steep rise to it. If you hit the sweet spot, a photo of you from the side will reveal a nice pyramid composed of top tube, torso and arms.'

There are several kinds of "bike fits" out there that people use. A high end bike bike fit is liable to be a performance fit with the bars low. The french fit has you sitting up right. There are others I have seen that give you options in between. So the bottom line is that there are a series of possible positions for you and the bike - there is no one perfect fit which some guy in a bike shop can give you. Also - IMHO there is no one fit for a single person, it depends on how they feel, are you flexible and strong today or are you feeling a bit sluggish. Another myth, you can't go fast with flat bars, tell that to some of the riders in the club I ride with and they will leave you in the dust riding flat bars, yes - more wind resistance but a more open chest to keep you breathing.

So what am I trying to say here - I think you will eventually like the drops, as others have stated you may want them a little higher or even a little closer in. And as you get use to them you may find the bike shop "fit" is right. Experiment but mark where things are positioned now so you know where you started from. There are a lot of variables in the equation of a good fit and a lot of noise in the measurements. One of the biggest noise factors is how your body feels at the time you try it out. So make a change and live with it for a few rides, then make another. Pretty soon you will dial it in.

I rode a mtn.bike for years before buying a road bike. Took some getting used to the position on the road bike. One thing I did was to tilt the bar up, so the hoods were sitting higher (I usually ride "on the hoods"). Might give it a try-it's a quick and easily reversible adjustment.

Last year when I was testing bikes my LBS let me have them for a few days so I could get a good feel for the bike. I was able to put around 60 miles on each and this really helped me to make my choice between the two bikes. I think you need at least a couple rides in the 20 mile range to see how the bike feels.

+1 on that comment. And my Sequoia even has those auxiliary brake levers near the stem so I have quick brake access when I'm riding on the tops. The only disadvantage is having to reach for the hoods in order to shift, but that's not such a big deal. And I really like having all of the various hand-position options.

I have the auxiliary brakes on my older road bike but try never to use them. The new road bike doesn't have them and I had a couple close calls shortly after purchasing it. I reached for the brakes on the top and there wasn't any:eek:

If you limit your sample to people who have ridden 50 miles more than once in their lives, the percentage would go way up. :D Take a look at the start of nearly any charity ride, and you'll see probably 90% drop bar roadies, maybe 3% bents, and the rest a motley mix of hybrids, MTBs, and the odd fixie.

no more drops for me...they're like a medieval intrument of torture

If you look at riders riding on roads you are probably going to see a lot of "roadish" bikes. If you go to trail heads and look around you may find a lot of "MTBish" bikes, and as pointed out above if you go to interstates you will not see a lot of waterskiers. As I look back at most of the posts about this subject (many many other versions of the same thread) I see a consistant story. Those folks who ride roads by in large favor dropbars as the "only" practical alternative. Hard core MTB'ers on the other hand laugh at the concept of drop bars.

Changing Drop bar bikes to flats and flats to drops is one of the speciality niches that I do for folks on occasion and it appears to me that some riders just don't like certain setups. As a proponent of 50+ common sense I feel that rider comfort (mental as well as physical) is important. The biggest problem is that it is not cheap or easy to change back and forth between the two styles for comparison. It is not always easy to go to the LBS and find nearly equivalent bikes with different control groups to try. A few years ago, TREK sold the 1000 with both flat and drop bar control groups with virtually identical equipment fits. (other than those necessary to accomodate the change). At this time I don't know of any other identical bike to use for comparison.

I notice that there are many more flatbar road bikes in Europe where they are used as everyday commuters then there are here. Anyone here have any experience with that?

I like to suggest that the riding position does not define flat bars to drop bar preference.
Like many above post, I use the hoods most of the time and Aerobars against the wind.
I have set up my riding position at about 45 degrees for hoods, aerobars and flat bars (with aerobars).
It is possible to lay almost flat with my back if I slide back on the saddle using aerobars against strong wind.
The advantage of flat bars with T-ends and aerobars is on very bumpy road or trail. Gripping wide on the t-ends gives a lot of leverage which I do not have with drop bars.
OTOH, drop bars tuck you better in aerodynamically. So if I do something like a TT or PB I use drops. If I go on a bumpy road or trail I prefer straights. I have both. I find both comfortable for century rides provided I have aerobars.

Which is exactly the point. Unmodified flat bars suck for long rides. Adding the aerobars gives you a forward crouch position that is much more aero and a good bit more ergo.

So far I'm pretty well satisfied with my motley Coda Elite and it's not quite flat bar. And I've definitely ridden it more than 50 miles more than once since getting it in April. That's not to say someday I might not try a "real" road bike. Maybe in a year or so. I was well served by riding the original bike (Navigator) for a solid year before getting another bike, and I'm for sure going to ride the Coda for at least that long before looking into yet another one. If I do make the jump to a road bike, it will be a good one, most likely one made to order. But who knows what the future holds?

yeah it is supposed to suck....the cure is ride a LOT in drops....stay in them as much as you can stand, for a month of rides. eventually you get to the point that, when you go to the drops is feels normal

:eek::eek::eek:

Bluetail-Back to your question!!!! My experience has been that it does take a little time for the muscles in the neck and possibly back to adjust to a road bike. If I have not done a longer ride for a while, I notice that my neck and related shoulder muscles are a little sore the next day. However, after working up to the distances I want to do with shorter rides, most of that goes away. It really doesn't matter if they are flat bars or hoods-probably what has changed has been the bars are now a little lower than the saddle and they are probably also a little further away. I've noticed it does feel a little stretched out at first but it is also easy to get acclimated to. As long as the bike is fitted within reason you should be able to adjust to it over time. You should be able to sit on your sit bones with your hands on the bars, you should also have some bend in your elbows so you're arms are not straight and rigid. If you're arms are straight the shock and bumps from the road will go directly to your shoulders and back-not good.

If it were me, I would do some slightly lesser shorter rides to get more acclimated to the new position, and then tweak the positions later depending on how things feel. It really does take a little time to work these things out.

Welcome here as well. Let us know how it goes.

Back t the OP original question, YES it OK and normal to fell some pain and stiffness in the neck, shoulder and back after your first ride of 45 miles or so. I feel that way every spring when I get back on the road. I know its gonna happen, and I accept it. If the pain does not go away, then you have a problem, but give it a few rides for your body to get used to the increased workload and different stresses of a new riding position.

Yep, direct and indirect; as you say, flatbar bikes (of all kinds, from full-on road race geometry to hybrid to mtb-framed to trekking etc.) are v. common on the roads not only in Europe but everywhere, and not only for commuting; the difference is that in North America there does seem a (tacit) assumption, absent in e.g. Europe, that 'real' cyclists (whoever they are??) ride drop-bar road bikes when on the road. I've never quite 'got' this assumption, and never will: to my mind, someone uncomfortably riding a full-on dropbar roadie, when he/she (age, body type, conditioning, primary riding conditions) might in fact be better off, and dare I say it actually a more efficient cyclist, on another type of bike, just doesn't make any sense -- but whatever. (Self)image, personal tastes, etc. of course have their effect in bike choice, just as with everything.