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Originally Posted by Tom Bombadil
(Post 5975675)
Should note that I have no agenda to influence anyone to move from drop bars. Just wanting to show that there are alternatives to straight pipe bars or standard riser bars, for those who have bikes with those types of bars on them.
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This thread is awesome.
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Thanks Tom for posting this. I've had the Nashbar trekking bars for several months now and really like them. I'm planning to put bullhorns on my new bike when I get it in a few months since I am still certain that riding in the drops for ANY length of time will place too much stress on the implant in my wrist. Nice to know there are so many other options out there [edit: than flat bars].
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Originally Posted by Tom Bombadil
(Post 5960012)
The outside diameters (O.D.) of the clamp areas of a "road" bar are 23.8 mm (15/16"). For a mountain bike / hybrid / flat bar road bike, it is 22.2 mm (7/8").
Didn't you mean to say these are the O.D.s of the main bar sections, not the clamp areas? |
I misused the term "clamp areas" I was thinking of the clamps on the bar accessories, like the shifters, when I wrote that post. I believe that's what the person asking a question was asking about.
Yes indeed, the "clamp areas" (where the stem clamps to the handlebar) on the bars themselves are different, and can vary. Most road bikes are 26.0mm and many mountain bike/flat bars are 25.4mm, but 31.8mm is common too. |
As mentioned in another thread, another bar end option that many find to be very comfortable is the "Cane Creek Ergo Control II." These fit right into the palm of your hand and allow you to rotate your hand position by roughly 90 degrees. Not sure they would work as well if you have bars with a lot of sweep or if your handlebars are very wide.
http://www.canecreek.com/ergo-control-ii-bar-ends.html http://http://www.route66bicycles.co...er%20front.JPG |
Originally Posted by Yen
(Post 6098051)
Thanks Tom for posting this. I've had the Nashbar trekking bars for several months now and really like them. I'm planning to put bullhorns on my new bike when I get it in a few months since I am still certain that riding in the drops for ANY length of time will place too much stress on the implant in my wrist. Nice to know there are so many other options out there [edit: than flat bars].
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This is a very timely thread. My wife had neck surgery a while back (two vertabrae are now fused together), and so she has to have the bars higher than her saddle. I've currently got her old Trek mountain bike setup with a high angle stem and mountain bike bars that raise up a few inches, and after some tweaking, we've got the geometry where she likes it. We do road biking exclusively. So, now I'm thinking of making her a present of a custom road bike built to those dimensions.
The quandry is the handlebars. She'll never use the drops on a road bike, so the end result is that braking is harder for her. Mountain bike bars, as stated earlier, have no opportunity for hand location variations. Without going into drops or extending reach very much, what would the best alternatives be? |
Hmmm .... Smorgasbord42 ... you may be looking in the wrong thread. Sounds like you are looking for alternatives to road bike drop bars, like moustache bars. Something that will accept road bike brakes and shifters that would in turn be compatible with road bike brakes and derailleurs. I haven't addressed those options here.
If you are looking at putting together a "flat bar road bike" or equivalent, using brakes and derailleurs that are compatible with mountain bike bar components, then this thread is relevant. |
Originally Posted by Tom Bombadil
(Post 6167836)
Hmmm .... Smorgasbord42 ... you may be looking in the wrong thread. Sounds like you are looking for alternatives to road bike drop bars, like moustache bars. Something that will accept road bike brakes and shifters that would in turn be compatible with road bike brakes and derailleurs. I haven't addressed those options here.
If you are looking at putting together a "flat bar road bike" or equivalent, using brakes and derailleurs that are compatible with mountain bike bar components, then this thread is relevant. Her bike today kind of looks like this: http://content.answers.com/main/cont...ill_stem_2.JPG That is, adjustable stem with "flat bars" which aren't very flat. The setup works well for short rides, but after 20 miles or so she gets some fatigue which we believe is due to not having alternative hand positions. |
My Trek hybrid is set up much like that picture. I installed long L-shaped bar ends, which provide two alternative hand positions. I have my bar ends leaning "forward" a bit and put foam grips on them so that they were comfy. This has worked out very well for me on rides of 40+ miles.
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Found a pair of bar ends that I had to add to this thread. They are "bar drops" which add a drop bar onto a flat handlebar. Made by Origin.
For those who own a flat bar bike and would like a drop option. |
any idea where to buy the origin product?
thanks |
Originally Posted by tm3
(Post 7003367)
any idea where to buy the origin product?
thanks |
Yep, try local. If no luck, then Niagara Cycle Works has them:
http://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ducts_id=15300 |
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At present I'm using a common type of "flat bar," a Bontrager crowbar which has a 25mm rise and about 6-7 degrees of sweep. Used in combination with an adjustable stem which raised the bar at least another 1.5" from it's original position.
I wanted to share pics of my comfy grips and bar-ends. I have inexpensive knockoffs of Ergon grips and Cane Creek bar ends. The grips are $10 Avenir (Raleigh) comfort grips, which are softer and contoured somewhat different than the Ergons. They fit perfectly into my hands and the extension in the palm area allows me to rest my palms directly onto the grips and take pressure off of my troublesome thumb joints. The bar ends are from "Tranz-X" and are sold under other brand names. Paid $20. They are synthentic rubber (Kraton) coated carbon-fiber. Lightweight at 148 grams. Nicely contoured and also fit right into my hands. The combination gives me three primary hand positions, one on the grips, one with my hands moved partially over the bar ends (resting the outside of my palms on the flat area of the bar ends) and partially over the grips, and then with my hands turned with the bar ends fitted into my palms. All three are very comfortable. |
Does anyone recognize these? I can't remember where I got them...nashbar I think, about 16-17 years ago. I haven't found any exactly like them, but the concept is like the butterfly essentially.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...r/bikes006.jpg |
Although i just ordered Soma Sparrow bars (where is that UPS guy anyway..expected them today) in my long and agonizing decision process which included the H bars and Mary bars, I found these at Velo Orange
http://www.velo-orange.com/milanbar.html Relatively cheap, but I decided to try the Sparrow's first. Velo Orange is local to me, although I've never been there...someday i'll pay a visit and see what follows me home Pete |
Originally Posted by dawes56
(Post 5964356)
I've been thinking of trying these on my Kona Dew Deluxe.
http://store.somafab.com/sosp490bar.html I tend to think about things for a long time before actually doing anything, so it may be a while..and something else may come along. After about 20 miles though, the stock riser bar (with added bar ends) is not very comfortable There are just so many options...... Pete I ended up with the Soma Sparrow bars on my Milano. No photos yet but will post some soon. |
Originally Posted by Cleave
(Post 7308085)
Hi,
I ended up with the Soma Sparrow bars on my Milano. No photos yet but will post some soon. Pete |
The On One Mary is great for comfort on my townie.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g6...e/IMG_0752.jpg |
Yep, the On One Mary is nice. Your pic looks a lot like the one I posted in message #23 in this thread. Nice simple setup.
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Picked up the Origin-8 version of the Mary bar at a shop the other day for $15. Hope to play around with it soon. They had the Soma Sparrow bars there for $28. I looked them over but decided they were a bit too narrow for me.
I sure wish the derailleur and brake cables on my Fuji had come a couple of inches longer. I may have to re-cable all 4 cables just to make them 2" longer. That irritates me. I can't quite get them to fit a couple of the handlebars I want to test. |
Hi,
Finally took some pictures of my Milano with the new handlebars: http://www.pbase.com/cleavel/image/1...1/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/cleavel/image/1...5/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/cleavel/image/1...5/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/cleavel/image/1...0/original.jpg The last two photos illustrate a problem that I discovered during this conversion. The shift control on the right side actually required a 60 cm grip instead of a 90 cm grip that came with the bike. The left side takes a 120 cm grip. I discovered this because the control barely fits the flat section of the bar and when I started measuring things I figured out the problem. Anyway, I rode this bike during my club's annual Christmas ride (30 miles) and the bars worked great for that distance. |
Sleek looking bike. Wish I could ride something like that, but I suspect I would need those handlebars placed at least 4" higher.
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