How to Use Pedal?
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Senatobia,MS
Posts: 6
Bikes: Dawes Road Racer, Raleigh Mountain, Fuji Road Bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
How to Use Pedal?
I have ridden bicycles most of my life. Mostly what us old folks called 10 speeds and mountain bikes all with the old fashioned strapless/clipless pedals. I just bought a new bike that has strap type pedals. How do you get your feet into them when you get on the bike? They are top heavy and swing down before I get a chance to put my foot into it?
#2
Senior Member
You could try flipping them to a position where you can get you foot in with your toe. Or remove the toe clips and just use them as platforms.
Or you could do what I would do, take them off and throw them away. Get you self some clipless pedals, and shoes, and put them on. But that's just me.
Or you could do what I would do, take them off and throw them away. Get you self some clipless pedals, and shoes, and put them on. But that's just me.
#3
Banned.
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 20,917
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
10 Posts
You flip them with your toe so the strap is on top, and insert your foot.
This will become automatic after a bit, and you won't even think about it.
But, truly, "clipless" - that means with a clip on the bottom of your shoe, believe it or not, IS best.
This will become automatic after a bit, and you won't even think about it.
But, truly, "clipless" - that means with a clip on the bottom of your shoe, believe it or not, IS best.
#5
Prefers Cicero
Place the ball or toe of your foot on the edge of the pedal, push down and back to flip the pedal up, and shoot your foot forward. If needed, reach down and yank the strap tight. It soon becomes pretty automatic, as pointed out. To exit, pull your foot straight back. Avoid shoes with prominent tread.
But do you want to use them? You could just take the straps and toe clips off.
But do you want to use them? You could just take the straps and toe clips off.
Last edited by cooker; 05-23-08 at 10:24 AM.
#6
Erect member since 1953
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Antioch, CA (SF Bay Area)
Posts: 7,000
Bikes: Trek 520 Grando, Roubaix Expert, Motobecane Ti Century Elite turned commuter, Some old French thing gone fixie
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 121 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 38 Times
in
21 Posts
You'll need to buy old style Italian shoes and nail (yes, I said nail) metal cleats to the bottoms.
Then, after you deftly flip the pedal with your foot and get your toes in you'll feel the cleat groves marry your pedal. Don't forget to reach down and give the straps an extra tug.
Enjoy!
Then, after you deftly flip the pedal with your foot and get your toes in you'll feel the cleat groves marry your pedal. Don't forget to reach down and give the straps an extra tug.
Enjoy!
#7
just keep riding
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Milledgeville, Georgia
Posts: 13,560
Bikes: 2018 Black Mountain Cycles MCD,2017 Advocate Cycles Seldom Seen Drop Bar, 2017 Niner Jet 9 Alloy, 2015 Zukas custom road, 2003 KHS Milano Tandem, 1986 Nishiki Cadence rigid MTB, 1980ish Fuji S-12S
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 173 Post(s)
Liked 33 Times
in
22 Posts
You'll need to buy old style Italian shoes and nail (yes, I said nail) metal cleats to the bottoms.
Then, after you deftly flip the pedal with your foot and get your toes in you'll feel the cleat groves marry your pedal. Don't forget to reach down and give the straps an extra tug.
Enjoy!
Then, after you deftly flip the pedal with your foot and get your toes in you'll feel the cleat groves marry your pedal. Don't forget to reach down and give the straps an extra tug.
Enjoy!
#8
Erect member since 1953
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Antioch, CA (SF Bay Area)
Posts: 7,000
Bikes: Trek 520 Grando, Roubaix Expert, Motobecane Ti Century Elite turned commuter, Some old French thing gone fixie
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 121 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 38 Times
in
21 Posts
I rode like this for many years (Heck, everyone used to ride with this set up.) and I only screwed up once.
Even then I blame the amazing beauty that I was riding with. She distracted me and I... well... did a no-speed fall.
As she gave me a look and rode off she asked "Ride much?"
But that was 30 years ago.
#9
Shredding Grandma!
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: So Cal
Posts: 4,803
Bikes: I don't own any bikes
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 46 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Here's the key - I tell people just getting use to any type of pedal... Don't panic about getting right into the pedal. Falls usually occur when the bike is moving too slowly. One foot will always be attached and already clipped in. Use that foot as your push off foot. At a light or a stop, position that foot at say 2 o'clock and then to start off push down, move forward. Doesn't matter if the other foot gets clipped in right away, just start pedaling forward (foot on the other side of the pedal is fine) and then when you have some speed (at least 10 mph) use your foot to flip the pedal over and slid in.
BTW - cages I believe are dangerous. Think about getting a pedal/cleat system. Much easier. You just start to pedal and then click in.
BTW - cages I believe are dangerous. Think about getting a pedal/cleat system. Much easier. You just start to pedal and then click in.
__________________
______________________________________________________________
Private docent led mountain bike rides through Limestone Canyon. Go to letsgooutside.org and register today! Also available: hikes, equestrian rides and family events as well as trail maintenance and science study.
______________________________________________________________
Private docent led mountain bike rides through Limestone Canyon. Go to letsgooutside.org and register today! Also available: hikes, equestrian rides and family events as well as trail maintenance and science study.
#10
Muscle bike design spec
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Sterling VA
Posts: 3,688
Bikes: 70 Atala Record Proffesional, 00 Lemond, 08 Kestrel Evoke, 96 Colnago Master Olympic, 01 Colnago Ovalmaster, 76 Raleigh Gran Sport, 03 Fuji World, 86 Paramount, 90 Miyata CF, 09 Ritchey Breakaway CX, Bianchi Trofeo, 12 OutRiderUSA HyperLite
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
You'll need to buy old style Italian shoes and nail (yes, I said nail) metal cleats to the bottoms.
Then, after you deftly flip the pedal with your foot and get your toes in you'll feel the cleat groves marry your pedal. Don't forget to reach down and give the straps an extra tug.
Enjoy!
Then, after you deftly flip the pedal with your foot and get your toes in you'll feel the cleat groves marry your pedal. Don't forget to reach down and give the straps an extra tug.
Enjoy!
To answer the OP - it's easier to go clipless or take off the straps.
__________________
Korval is Ships
See my Hyperlite 411 it's the photo model on OutRiderUSA web page
See my Hyperlite 411 it's the photo model on OutRiderUSA web page
#11
feros ferio
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Posts: 21,793
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
Mentioned: 44 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1391 Post(s)
Liked 1,322 Times
in
835 Posts
Many contributors to this thread assume that one must cinch the straps so tightly that they must be released before one can disengage one's foot from the clip. Many (most) of us nonracers keep the straps just barely loose enough to permit us to yank a foot straight backward and possibly a bit upward to disengage. This is actually quite safe, and the straight-back impulse is far more natural than twist-to-disengage.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#13
just keep riding
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Milledgeville, Georgia
Posts: 13,560
Bikes: 2018 Black Mountain Cycles MCD,2017 Advocate Cycles Seldom Seen Drop Bar, 2017 Niner Jet 9 Alloy, 2015 Zukas custom road, 2003 KHS Milano Tandem, 1986 Nishiki Cadence rigid MTB, 1980ish Fuji S-12S
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 173 Post(s)
Liked 33 Times
in
22 Posts
Many contributors to this thread assume that one must cinch the straps so tightly that they must be released before one can disengage one's foot from the clip. Many (most) of us nonracers keep the straps just barely loose enough to permit us to yank a foot straight backward and possibly a bit upward to disengage. This is actually quite safe, and the straight-back impulse is far more natural than twist-to-disengage.