Widsith

Hi. I'm what you might call an "old newbie," someone who once spent a lot of time riding and maintaining bikes, but hasn't done either in a long, long time. (I haven't been on a bike in nearly 20 years.) Now I'm considering getting back into riding, and I'm trying to figure out what's changed while I wasn't looking.

After riding single-speed coaster-brake equipped bikes since childhood, in high school (back in the early '70s) I bought a reasonably good ten-speed with money saved from my first job. It had a well-made but heavy brazed steel frame, a Suntour GT gearset and Dia-Compe centerpull brakes. I rode that bike everywhere, and liked it so much I didn't bother getting a driver's license until I was 18. I used it all through college and for several years afterward, though I didn't ride much after the '80s and sold it sometime in the '90s (a decision I still regret). Soon after buying that bike I read a couple of books on bicycle maintenance, got the requisite tools (spoke wrench, cone wrench, freewheel remover, "third hand" for brake work, tire tools, etc.) and learned to keep my bike in shape. Before long I became the neighborhood "bike guy" to whom all the kids came to get bearings and rusty brake cables and broken spokes (and once, a broken axle) replaced, brakes and gears adjusted, flats fixed and so forth. I practically lived in the local bike shop, talking to the experts and finding out about all the new stuff. (The shop was a couple of hours' ride from my house, but that was just a good excuse for a ride.) During the summers I made lots of all-day and overnight bike trips.

Now here I am, 53 years old and ready to start over. I've been looking online, in department stores and in a local bike shop. There seem to be several things that have changed significantly since I was involved. For instance, back then there essentially were two types of frame construction, brazed and welded. Most people thought brazing was superior, since less heat was needed and there was less chance of weakening the tubes. Now, the cheap bikes in the department stores all appear to be welded, and I can't tell how the expensive ones in the bike shop were done; they look like they were made all in one piece. None of the frames I've seen had any brazing lugs.

Another thing; back then centerpull brakes were considered much better than sidepulls, but I've seen a lot of sidepulls on high-end bikes, and not many centerpulls. Have sidepulls improved a lot? I also notice that all the brake levers seem to have rubber hoods now, whereas they were very rare when I was riding.

Plus, shifters have changed a lot. The choice in my day was between levers on the down tube and on the head tube or stem. (Mine were on the stem). All I've seen lately were integrated with the brake levers, or else "twist" types on the grips or on either side of the center of the handlebars. Also, the ones I had a chance to play with had a "click" position for each gear, whereas the ones with which I'm familiar had a smooth, continuous range of motion like the brake levers (except that the shift levers stayed where you put them.) Has the old non-clicking type of shifter disappeared now?

Finally, here's a question about a specific bike. I'm not wanting to spend a whole lot on a bike right now; I want to start small and see how it goes. However, I don't want to get a piece of junk either. I've found a good price ($389) on a Dawes Lightning 1000 and from what I've seen in the pictures and description, it looks like a good deal. Is it worthwhile? It claims to come 90% assembled; I'm sure I can handle the assembly with no problem, but what about adjustments? Are my rusty and outdated skills likely to be sufficient, or have things changed so much that I'll need to get a bike shop to get everything right for me?

I realize this is a lot for my first message, but I'd appreciate any advice anyone has for an old-timer who wants to get "up to speed" again (pun intended).

stapfam

Treat yourself as a complete newbie. Bikes have changed a lot- So have the way they are built and the bits bolted onto them. I presume that you are talking road bikes but it does not matter what bike you are talking about- The main thing is to get a bike and ride it.

At the price point you are talking- I would look second hand. You have good bike mechanic experience so know what to look for- Bad wheels- bent frame etc- but the main thing to do is to get a bike that fits and start riding again.

Reason for saying this is that there is only one reason for your first bike. It is to tell you what your second bike is going to be.

The Weak Link

Wow. I might be the first to comment on all this.

I buy and read books on bike mechanics. The newer brakes are thought to be superior to the old centerpull ones, especially the V brakes if you own a mountain bike or a hybrid. Index shifters are easy to use, which is why they're so popular. And God bless monocoque contruction.

This forum has plenty of retrogrouches who will hotly contest every word above.

And now to try to beat everyone to it:

--buy your first bike from an LBS so they can bail you out when you mess the bike up.
--buy what fits, and test ride a lot.
--there is no substitute for pure carbon for the >50 rider (OK, so the last statment is a stretch).

DnvrFox

https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/dawes/lt1000.htm

Artkansas 

Welcome back Widsith,

Yes, a lot has changed. I guess you know how Rip Van Winkle felt.

Brazed tube construction has disappeared except for very high end bikes because the cost of doing it is so high and robotic welders have made it possible to do high quality welds. Lugged frames are still available from a few manufacturers like Rivendell. Aluminum frames are now quite normal and Carbon Fiber frames considered normal for high end road bikes.

Brakes have gone beyond what you describe. Now V brakes and cantilever predominate. Both are improvements on centerpull and sidepull. Look more closely.

And yes, all kinds of shifters. Head tube shifters may have all but disappeared, but you can find most of the others. Non indexed shifters can be had, but are not standard. A few of us still like them. The most noticeable change is attitude. Now you can chose as you like. Preferences are not quite so elite and rigid as they were. Variety is accepted.

I can't say for your Dawes. It isn't the same old one as you may be thinking it is. Dawes, Windsor, Motobecane, Bottechia and Mercier brands are now made in Taiwan. Only the name is left, not the company. Stay away from department stores as well.

Your skills will still work, but not all your tools may work. All your old gear clusters may now be cassettes. Some of the tools may be good, but there may be surprises. Get a book like "Zinn and the art of maintenance" from your library. Now days you can get just about any tool and information on how to fix bikes from Park Tools.

The cool thing is that the parts are all still out there to keep an old bike running. So to ease in, you may even want to consider getting an old 10 speed on Craigslist or eBay or locally. All the parts will be familiar and you can ride it, hang out here and get back up to speed.

Me, I have an old '70s American Eagle/Nishiki, a '90s Specialized Hard Rock and a modern Bacchetta Giro 20 recumbent. I feel comfortable working on them all. There isn't that much different at the core.

Tom Bombadil

Widsith ... welcome back from the Twilight Zone.

BluesDawg

Actually, on road bikes, like the one he is considering, sidepulls are the norm. And yes, they are very much improved over the old road brakes, whether sidepull or centerpull.

Good rides to you whatever you choose.

ticwanos

I seem to be a minority here, in that I like vintage lugged steel. Since this seems to be what you are familiar with, and you are just getting back into biking, there is an interesting looking Univega on your local craigslist (https://bham.craigslist.org/bik/704514309.html) that if it fits, would get you back into riding for a minimum amount of cash and give you time to explore all the new options. Garage/estate sales are another good source of inexpensive vintage machines. For the amount of money you have budgeted you can get a high quality vintage bike, even if you have to do a little wrenching yourself. Quality and condition of available bikes varies widely, but it sounds like you know what to look for. Welcome back. Just beware of the N+1 rule.

John E

You are definitely not a "minority of one." I concur with your recommendation.

cyclinfool

You and I are very close, about the same age - but I came back from the dead about 13 years ago. I never stopped riding but was down to going out only in very good weather and then only once or twice a month. I got invited to ride on a wed night ride with a group and pulled out my 12 year old Miyata touring bike and was way behind but had a great time. I looked at thier 9 gear cassets, the brake/shifters and how sweet thier bikes moved and realized I needed an upgrade if I were to continue to do this. I knew from many years of riding I needed to spend the money on the drive train. I found a very good used steel lugged frame (columbus SLX tubing, nickle plated) at a local LBS for $150 and had them through a good campy group on it. I have been riding this bike ever since and logging around 100m/w on it, the drive train is just now getting a little tired. Last year I bought a CF bike with an ultegra group.

So - I agree - find a nice used lugged steel frame, get a real nice group. Make sure to get the help of a good LBS, pay for a fiting to make sure your get the right size frame and they help you get it adjusted right. Ride it for a few months and get used to it. Then add clipless pedals and start riding long and fast. It will take a few seasons of riding to really get strong and then you can decide on N+1.

Welcome back!!

JanMM

Centerpull brakes had been replaced by sidepull brakes on many decent-quality bikes by around 1980. I still have fond memories of how easy it was to work on centerpulls.

BluesDawg

This minority is becoming a movement. I love lugged steel bikes. Three of the four bikes I ride frequently are lugged steel. If you know what you are doing, you can have a very nice bike for under $400.

Jet Travis

As the owner of a 21st Century road bike with brifters and index shifting, I'm no luddite. But I appreciate the fact that centerpulls continue to have a dedicated following. I have a 1980s road bike with centerpull brakes that I still ride and love much. Rivendell still sells them. They have a swell retro look and they work just fine. https://www.rivbike.com/products/list...product=15-111

wrk101

I am very similar to the OP. I last rode in 1977. This February, I decided to get back into shape, and use a bicycle as the tool of choice. I first rebuilt my old college bike (1975 Peugeot U08). I then bought a modern (2005) Trek SL1000.

New technology is so much better. First, I love index brifters. No more hunting for gears, so much more efficient. Side pull brakes much easier to adjust than my old mafac center pulls. Bike itself is much, much lighter (and this is after my Peugeot was put on a diet: alloy rims, alloy bars, alloy seat post, and alloy stem). I am 51 years old.

Given your budget, I would forget about a new bike. I bought my Trek used for $320. It had 2.5 miles on it. Craigs List is your best option, at least around here. I have since bought some good bikes at thrift shops and garage sales, flipped a couple of them. But thrift shop and garage sale finds are very sporatic.

Widsith

Thanks to everyone for your welcome and your very helpful advice. Though I haven't completely abandoned the idea of the Dawes bike from BD, I'm strongly considering a good used bike instead. In fact, I'm looking into the Univega Gran Turismo on craigslist that ticwanos pointed out to me. If the frame turns out to be a good fit and in good condition, I'll probably go with that one. I've bought a copy of Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance and going through it is really starting to bring back happy memories of tuning and riding my old bike.

Another question: Does anyone in the US still make bicycle clips (those horseshoe-shaped metal clips that keep your trouser legs out of the chain and sprockets)? They used to be hanging up with the frame pumps and water bottles in every discount store and LBS, but so far I haven't seen any. The ones I've found online all seem to be in the UK. I could use rubber bands, but I really liked the old springy metal ones that I used to use.

DnvrFox

I bought a velcro thing from Nashbar.com a few years back, but then promptly lost it. Haven't seen them since then.

I use rubber bands or dress in lycra or just shorts and use tights or leg warmers.

But, if you are going to commute??

Check with the commuting forum.

Tom Bombadil

Two of the LBS around me still sell the clips, so they are definitely in production.

Personally I like the wide, velcro nylon ones. More comfortable than the metal clips and they stay on better too. There are some nice ones in the $4-$8 range ... better than those thin, bright colored strips. My favorite is from Deuter:

https://www.paragonsports.com/Paragon...ndspage=Deuter

If you need assistance on buying Fred gear, I'm your man.

cyclinfool

When I commute on my MTB I use am old shoe lace to tie my pant leg up.

Tom Bombadil

https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...oducts_id=2016

I will confess that I own a pair of these. I keep one in each of two wedge packs, on different bikes, in case I forget one of my three good protectors.

Widsith

That's pretty close (close enough) to what I meant. Here's a pair from a UK shop that looks more like the ones I remember: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-P...-pair-4281.htm

Widsith

Those do look more comfortable; I think I'll try a pair. Thanks for the suggestion!

maddmaxx 

If you are locked into a budget and cannot find an adequate used bike, then the Dawes from Bikes Direct is not a bad starting point for someone who can maintain his/her own bike. At that price point, the weak areas of that bike are the wheels/tires. An upgrade in about a year is likely.

If you could see you way clear to go up toward the $599 range, then the world is more open to your choice. At that point you can start looking for sales at the LBS or other source. At this price you can obtain a carbon fork and better wheels (still not "great" but better).

For your first bike, there is nothing wrong with 8speed (24 or 16) equipment and an aluminium frame. You will wear out and replace with better components, the brakes, chain, cassette, tires, wheels and cables. Many of the other replaceable parts (bars, seatpost and stem) are adequate but slightly heavy (so what/first bike).

As others have said, the first bike is to get you back into "bike shape". Within a year you will have different feelings toward what fits and what you want for a second bike. The second bike naturally point out what your want for a third bike etc.................

Road Fan

I restarted about the same way, at the age of 50. I had my old bikes still, a Trek, Masi, and Mondonico, bought at by last restart maybe 12 years back.

What you've seen as welded frames are 99.9% aluminum, not steel.

The main issue with lower-cost bikes today is parts quality - sound familiar? Bikes from Walmart and the like often have parts that will work decently for a while but not last. Simple repairs can balloon in complexity due to difficulty in finding correct replacements and potential non-standard desigh features. Better books like Zinn's might not talk about the low end stuff.

You have a few learning curves: regaining riding skills and capability, using a modern system, fitting your modern (?) body, recognizing adequate quality, and maintaining new systems. what I did, and I'm glad of it, was to rebuild one of my old bikes to proper riding condition, try to set it up right, and regain riding skills on that. I'm finishing and have some experience now (about 5 years later) on an indexed system since I'm converting my Mondonico to it, and it is great, and better as a pure riding tool. but there's been a lot of new stuff to learn. From this point of view you might consider buying a fine vintage bike for say, $500 or so, enjoy it, resharpen your skills, and then see what the next step is.

Some would say HTFU (harden the **** up) and just get a great bike today ($1500 to $2000), you'll love it once you get used to it and you have to get used to it anyway, plus you'll have it for years. This is really not a bad approach, and you can have the dealer go thru and fit the bike to you at purchase. Thsi is a much more elaborate procedure that it used to be, and IMO worth it. I can get close, but not get the cigar.

high-end pricing today is a lot higher than it used to be, you may have noticed.

Dawes is still a decent choice.

The Road Biking forum has a thread about entry-level road bikes. There will be no lack of info and opinion for you to read.

I hope these perspectives help! Welcome back!

Road Fan

Road Fan

Another good book: Zinn's Cycling Primer - for me he connected the old world of good quality and high-end bikes that I knew with the modern world and what is now on the table in the modern market.

Retro Grouch 

It sounds to me like you're trying to pick out a good vacationing spot by examining individual grains of sand on the beach. Do you really care what kind of brakes your bike has or just that they stop the bike smoothly and reliably for the type of riding that you envision?

My advice is to shop for a bike shop first. Visit several. What you should be looking for isn't a bike so much as a mentor. Once you find the right person to guide you through the various styles of bikes, equipment and fit, the selection process will solve itself.