Bar tape issues
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 6,900
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Bar tape issues
Replacing the bar tape on my Jamis I found what I had always suspected. The tape that came from the factory was at least 6 inches longer than the replacement tape I bought. The factory bar tape job was really nice. Why is almost everything in the bike industry not standardized across mfgs?
#2
just keep riding
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Milledgeville, Georgia
Posts: 13,560
Bikes: 2018 Black Mountain Cycles MCD,2017 Advocate Cycles Seldom Seen Drop Bar, 2017 Niner Jet 9 Alloy, 2015 Zukas custom road, 2003 KHS Milano Tandem, 1986 Nishiki Cadence rigid MTB, 1980ish Fuji S-12S
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 173 Post(s)
Liked 33 Times
in
22 Posts
It stretches as you put it on.
#3
Boomer
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 7,214
Bikes: Diamondback Clarity II frame homebuilt.
Mentioned: 106 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16098 Post(s)
Liked 1,457 Times
in
1,064 Posts
Replacing the bar tape on my Jamis I found what I had always suspected. The tape that came from the factory was at least 6 inches longer than the replacement tape I bought. The factory bar tape job was really nice. Why is almost everything in the bike industry not standardized across mfgs?
__________________
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 6,805
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1117 Post(s)
Liked 1,213 Times
in
770 Posts
Read the Park Tool website guide to installing handlebar tape. There are other guides that some prefer, but that one will get you through it with a decent looking job at the end.
I also might suggest if you haven't taped bars before: buy some el-cheapo bar tape (I found some closeout at about $3) and do it with that first. Sometimes those tapes are ugly or just lower quality/feel, but they work fine, especially for practice. Plus, sometimes the "ugly" tape grows on you after you use it for a while. You'll find as the guy above mentioned that you need to stretch it on and it requires a little bit of a touch, but mostly just non-gorilla touch. The stretching is necessary to make it fit nice and snug so it doesn't move. Some tape has really sticky adhesive on it, some doesn't. I've found that if you stretch the tape as you're putting it on, it stays in place very well without any adhesive backing.
I also might suggest if you haven't taped bars before: buy some el-cheapo bar tape (I found some closeout at about $3) and do it with that first. Sometimes those tapes are ugly or just lower quality/feel, but they work fine, especially for practice. Plus, sometimes the "ugly" tape grows on you after you use it for a while. You'll find as the guy above mentioned that you need to stretch it on and it requires a little bit of a touch, but mostly just non-gorilla touch. The stretching is necessary to make it fit nice and snug so it doesn't move. Some tape has really sticky adhesive on it, some doesn't. I've found that if you stretch the tape as you're putting it on, it stays in place very well without any adhesive backing.
#5
feros ferio
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Posts: 21,813
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
Mentioned: 44 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1397 Post(s)
Liked 1,336 Times
in
842 Posts
Another vote here for tape-stretching.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 6,900
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Stretches 6 inches? Think not. And I have built a dozen bikes and taped maybe 2 dozen bars so I know how to do it and make it look good with what they give you in a standard replacement roll. Guess the point is that when you get a replacement item it often is different from the factory stuff.
I see there is a SOMA tape that is advertised to be extra long, at a premium price no doubt.
Why is everyone cutting corners on everything these days is another way to put it.
I see there is a SOMA tape that is advertised to be extra long, at a premium price no doubt.
Why is everyone cutting corners on everything these days is another way to put it.
#8
just keep riding
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Milledgeville, Georgia
Posts: 13,560
Bikes: 2018 Black Mountain Cycles MCD,2017 Advocate Cycles Seldom Seen Drop Bar, 2017 Niner Jet 9 Alloy, 2015 Zukas custom road, 2003 KHS Milano Tandem, 1986 Nishiki Cadence rigid MTB, 1980ish Fuji S-12S
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 173 Post(s)
Liked 33 Times
in
22 Posts
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,936
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Combination of how much you stretch it (without it tearing on you at the levers), how you actually wrap it around the levers, and how much overlap you use. I have yet to ever get new tape of any brand that came up short, but I guess it's possible. I always end up having to cut some off at the end.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 644 Times
in
365 Posts
I'm thinking that tapeing handlebars is a job where experience counts. The more you do it the better you get at knowing how far to overlap and how tight to wrap.
#11
hello
Bar taping is easy especially if you have your bike and bars rigidly supported on a repair stand. Bar tapes are usually long enough to do the job unless you have very wide bars.
Brooks bar tape, for instance, was difficult to wrap since they don't stretch as you pull and wrap.
Brooks bar tape, for instance, was difficult to wrap since they don't stretch as you pull and wrap.
#12
Senior Member
I'm possibly the world's worst bar-taper.
However, I recently put Fizik on two different bikes and it went very smoothly. Plenty of tape w/a little stretching.
I've also heard good things about the Soma "extra long" bar tape referenced above.
However, I recently put Fizik on two different bikes and it went very smoothly. Plenty of tape w/a little stretching.
I've also heard good things about the Soma "extra long" bar tape referenced above.
#13
Galveston County Texas
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: In The Wind
Posts: 33,238
Bikes: 02 GTO, 2011 Magnum
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1353 Post(s)
Liked 1,249 Times
in
626 Posts
Replacing the bar tape on my Jamis I found what I had always suspected. The tape that came from the factory was at least 6 inches longer than the replacement tape I bought. The factory bar tape job was really nice. Why is almost everything in the bike industry not standardized across mfgs?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fs7BY4wKHTM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Citrus county Fl.
Posts: 787
Bikes: Litespeed Tuscany , Lemond Poprad, 1970's Motobecane Grand Record
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I guess I just thought I knew how to wrap my bars until I watched the youtube video posted by 10 Wheels. I have been going around the brakes a little differently than that.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 389
Bikes: 1986 Univega Grand Touring; 1983 Puch A/D Pacifica; 2006 LeMond Sarthe
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
The cork/foam tape is actually the easiest tape I've ever used. The "old" tape for "10 speeds" that I used to use in the '60s and '70's (the thin plastic quilted kind that came in used car lot flag colors) was harder - but it was so cheap you could afford to blow a few jobs. I used to re-tape my 10 speed monthly, because I hated grungy tape. Now, a job with the cork/foam tape usually lasts about a season, if I'm lucky. I've never found any roll of it to be too short for basic drop bars, and I do try to stretch it as much as I can without breaking it. The only tape I've found to be not as easy is Fizik smooth tape - the edges of the winds curled after a while and annoyed me, even though the tape itself was OK.
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 6,900
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Guess I was looking for someone that agreed about cutting corners on everything but the majority seems to accept the fact that you get what you get.
The tape I used on this bike was Profile Design brand but I would bet most brands come out of one factory in Taiwan. I don't spend for premium tape as I have found that the "good" stuff lasts no longer than stuff like Profile, BBB or other brands.
The tape I used on this bike was Profile Design brand but I would bet most brands come out of one factory in Taiwan. I don't spend for premium tape as I have found that the "good" stuff lasts no longer than stuff like Profile, BBB or other brands.
#17
Fred E Fenders
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Again! Philippines & S. California
Posts: 1,453
Bikes: Jamis Aurora Elite
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Guess I was looking for someone that agreed about cutting corners on everything but the majority seems to accept the fact that you get what you get.
The tape I used on this bike was Profile Design brand but I would bet most brands come out of one factory in Taiwan. I don't spend for premium tape as I have found that the "good" stuff lasts no longer than stuff like Profile, BBB or other brands.
The tape I used on this bike was Profile Design brand but I would bet most brands come out of one factory in Taiwan. I don't spend for premium tape as I have found that the "good" stuff lasts no longer than stuff like Profile, BBB or other brands.
Be sure and wrap clockwise on the right and counter clockwise on the left starting from the drops.
__________________
F Thomas
"Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep moving."
Albert Einstein (1879-1955)
F Thomas
"Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep moving."
Albert Einstein (1879-1955)
#18
Senior Member
One interesting aspect about bar taping that I learned a few days ago: if you have bar-end shifters (i.e., barcons) and you have the shifter housings exit the bars conventionally at the front of the drops (rather than attempting to wrap them all the way up the bars which requires extra-long housings), you want to wrap from top to bottom rather than bottom to top. Otherwise, you'll end up with an ugly non-overlapping section at the exit point.
- Mark
- Mark
#19
Senior Member
Although... I noticed that chains come in various lengths (determined by number of links) these days, so you need to be careful you have enough to cover the big-big options on the gears.
I suppose you could be short-changed on lubricants that have more solvent than slippery stuff mixed in. You could say that people are losing out on lower-spoke counts with wheels, too.
But the one significant area that seems rife to cheating is weights. The weightweenies website shows this as much as anything else apart from kitchen scales.
As to bar tape... I bought some Easton tape to go on some Easton EC70 bars with the flat flats, and just as well there was some stretch in it -- it took me three goes each side to get the tape anywhere near the right spot near the stem. And I am still not happy.
Incidentally, someone asked me quite a long time ago why I start taping from the bar-end rather than at the stem. It had me perplexed for a while, until one day I was riding along with my bullhorn-equipped FG (which had been wrapped from stem out) and saw the tape was oriented so my hands, as they pushed forward, were lifting the edges of the tape and bunching it. Answer right there.