Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Fifty Plus (50+)
Reload this Page >

Steep Urban Hills

Search
Notices
Fifty Plus (50+) Share the victories, challenges, successes and special concerns of bicyclists 50 and older. Especially useful for those entering or reentering bicycling.

Steep Urban Hills

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-02-08, 09:17 PM
  #1  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Steep Urban Hills

I live in Salt Lake City. The only place I can ride from my front door is straight down. It's been 25 years since I last bought a bike. What would be the best type of bike for very steep paved urban hills?
jonathan20 is offline  
Old 08-02-08, 10:04 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
BengeBoy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Seattle, Washington, USA
Posts: 6,955

Bikes: 2009 Chris Boedeker custom; 2007 Bill Davidson custom; 2021 Bill Davidson custom gravel bike; 2022 Specialized Turbo Vado e-bike

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 9 Times in 8 Posts
I feel your pain -- I live at the *bottom* of a very steep hill, so all of my rides start with a steep uphill.

To answer your question, it's not so much the type of bike -- it's the type of gearing.

A great way to solve this problem is getting a bike with a triple chain ring; the inner ring should be very small (22 to 28 teeth) so that you have a very low range of gears. Your aim is to have a low gear of around 20 to 25 gear inches.

Once you know the size of the chain ring and the gears on the cassette of a bike you're looking at, you can plug the values into this calculator and determine the gear inches...

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/
BengeBoy is offline  
Old 08-02-08, 10:53 PM
  #3  
Pedaled too far.
 
Artkansas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: La Petite Roche
Posts: 12,851
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Originally Posted by BengeBoy
To answer your question, it's not so much the type of bike -- it's the type of gearing.


https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/
I live on the east end of the Ouachita Mountains. Every thing is hilly around here.

A hard-tailed mountain bike with street slicks should do you well. Check out the gearing. A lot of utility bikes have equally wide gearing that should do you well too.
__________________
"He who serves all, best serves himself" Jack London

Originally Posted by Bjforrestal
I don't care if you are on a unicycle, as long as you're not using a motor to get places you get props from me. We're here to support each other. Share ideas, and motivate one another to actually keep doing it.
Artkansas is offline  
Old 08-03-08, 01:02 AM
  #4  
Really Old Senior Member
 
Bill Kapaun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Posts: 13,873

Bikes: 87 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds. 2019 Giant Explore E+3

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1795 Post(s)
Liked 1,269 Times in 876 Posts
Hills means you want to keep the weight down.
includes tires too. Skinny, easy rolling tires and "mountain" gearing.
Get a triple on front and 8 or 9 on back.
Bill Kapaun is offline  
Old 08-03-08, 01:18 AM
  #5  
Time for a change.
 
stapfam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: 6 miles inland from the coast of Sussex, in the South East of England
Posts: 19,913

Bikes: Dale MT2000. Bianchi FS920 Kona Explosif. Giant TCR C. Boreas Ignis. Pinarello Fp Uno.

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 4 Posts
Depends on the steepness of the hill and how much residual fitness you have. Whether it be road bike- Hybrid or Mountain bike does not matter as long as you have the lowest gearing possible---Initially.

Road and Hybrid bikes are available with low gearing, Which although still higher than a mountain bike, will work just aswell. A mountain bike will have lower gearing- but they are heavy and a change of tyres to slicks will be necessary.

I rode Mountain bikes exclusively for 15 years and come the hills on the road and I was in the lower gears on a small front chainring of 22 and rear sprocket of 32. 22/32 gearing is very low. When I went road- I had higher gearing with a lowest gear of 30/28 but that was because I could not get any lower. Hill gear was the 30/28 and up the same hills as the lowest gear on the MTB. I did not struggle any more than on the MTB because the bike was lighter- the tyres rolled a lot better and I did not have Front suspension holding me back.

So it will be down to you. Whatever bike you get- Expect to be walking occasionally till your fitness comes up but after that You will find out one of the prime rules of a Newbie starting out. The first bike will only be an indicator of what bike you should have bough in the first place.
__________________
How long was I in the army? Five foot seven.


Spike Milligan
stapfam is offline  
Old 08-03-08, 07:47 AM
  #6  
just keep riding
 
BluesDawg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Milledgeville, Georgia
Posts: 13,560

Bikes: 2018 Black Mountain Cycles MCD,2017 Advocate Cycles Seldom Seen Drop Bar, 2017 Niner Jet 9 Alloy, 2015 Zukas custom road, 2003 KHS Milano Tandem, 1986 Nishiki Cadence rigid MTB, 1980ish Fuji S-12S

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 173 Post(s)
Liked 33 Times in 22 Posts
Originally Posted by jonathan20
I live in Salt Lake City. The only place I can ride from my front door is straight down. It's been 25 years since I last bought a bike. What would be the best type of bike for very steep paved urban hills?
As everyone has said, gearing and strength is what will get you up hills. What type of bike you want is a different question. What type of bike do you want? Do you want a drop bar road bike? Do you want a more upright type of bike like a comfort bike? Do you want something in between like a fitness hybrid? Do you want a bike that can handle riding dirt roads, gravel paths or even offroad trails? These questions determine what type of bike you'll want. The hills determine what kind of gearing you'll want to have on that bike.
BluesDawg is offline  
Old 08-03-08, 07:49 AM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: S.E. Pennsylvania, USA
Posts: 1,737
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by BluesDawg
As everyone has said, gearing and strength is what will get you up hills. What type of bike you want is a different question. What type of bike do you want? Do you want a drop bar road bike? Do you want a more upright type of bike like a comfort bike? Do you want something in between like a fitness hybrid? Do you want a bike that can handle riding dirt roads, gravel paths or even offroad trails? These questions determine what type of bike you'll want. The hills determine what kind of gearing you'll want to have on that bike.
Well said; you speak my mind.
BSLeVan is offline  
Old 08-03-08, 10:57 AM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 830
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by jonathan20
I live in Salt Lake City. The only place I can ride from my front door is straight down. It's been 25 years since I last bought a bike. What would be the best type of bike for very steep paved urban hills?
You need a road bike with custom gearing. I've had road bikes since '75 and always had to change the gearing as I can't ride like Lance Armstrong.

I'd use a mountain bike crankset which has 22/32/44 rings (need not be expensive) and a 12 to 27 Ultegra cassette. Use a long cage rear derailleur and a triple front derailleur. It'll all fit fine on a road bike. I've used this set up a few years until I switched to a TA 22/36/46 crankset. My wife still uses a mountain bike crank set.

Some bike shops will change out the parts and give you a trade-in. It's easy to do Yourself if you buy the tools and use the Park web site. I've been building our bikes for a number of years so I can get what I want right off the bat.

If you eventually build up your strength/endurance and can ride like Lance, you can switch back.

I personally would go with drop bars and try to get your back angle around 50-degrees or less (from the horizontal) when on the hoods. Much greater back angle than that makes climbing harder as you can't bring some of the bigger muscles into play.

Al

Last edited by alcanoe; 08-03-08 at 11:01 AM.
alcanoe is offline  
Old 08-03-08, 11:05 AM
  #9  
Banned.
 
The Weak Link's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Post-partisan Paradise
Posts: 4,938

Bikes: GF Wahoo '05, Trek T1000 '04, Lemond Buenos Aires '07

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 2 Posts
I'd recommend an Orbea Orca with a triple chainring and with a mountain bike cassette, something like a 12-32. Fit it with a Brooks B17 saddle, use Conti 4000S tires, Keo pedals, and Sidi dominators, and you should do just fine.
The Weak Link is offline  
Old 08-03-08, 11:27 AM
  #10  
just keep riding
 
BluesDawg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Milledgeville, Georgia
Posts: 13,560

Bikes: 2018 Black Mountain Cycles MCD,2017 Advocate Cycles Seldom Seen Drop Bar, 2017 Niner Jet 9 Alloy, 2015 Zukas custom road, 2003 KHS Milano Tandem, 1986 Nishiki Cadence rigid MTB, 1980ish Fuji S-12S

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 173 Post(s)
Liked 33 Times in 22 Posts
Originally Posted by The Weak Link
I'd recommend an Orbea Orca with a triple chainring and with a mountain bike cassette, something like a 12-32. Fit it with a Brooks B17 saddle, use Conti 4000S tires, Keo pedals, and Sidi dominators, and you should do just fine.
I don't know what I was thinking. This is obviously the only possible solution.
BluesDawg is offline  
Old 08-03-08, 02:27 PM
  #11  
feros ferio
 
John E's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Posts: 21,796

Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;

Mentioned: 44 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1392 Post(s)
Liked 1,324 Times in 836 Posts
The steepest paved street in California is reportedly Fargo St. in central Los Angeles. One of my friends built a bike with a double-reduction gear system, which enabled him to tackle the 32-33% grade at 2.2 mph and a comfortable 100 RPM crank cadence. I don't know whether I would have the nerve to descend that one!
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
John E is offline  
Old 08-03-08, 02:36 PM
  #12  
Yen
Surly Girly
 
Yen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SoCal
Posts: 4,116
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by The Weak Link
I'd recommend an Orbea Orca with a triple chainring and with a mountain bike cassette, something like a 12-32. Fit it with a Brooks B17 saddle, use Conti 4000S tires, Keo pedals, and Sidi dominators, and you should do just fine.
Fixed to include the winkie.
__________________
Specialized Roubaix Expert
Surly Long Haul Trucker
Yen is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.