Saddle to handlebar drop with B17
01-21-09, 11:03 AM
#1
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Saddle to handlebar drop with B17
I have a 3" drop on my Roubaix now and I'm pretty comfortible with that. I was wondering how much drop you could have with a Brooks B17, thanks.
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George
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01-21-09, 11:25 AM
#2
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As much as you want. I run my handlebar top about 1.5" below my B17. Being a little wider saddle, some people will get some interference on the sides with more drop. Others will have no problem. One of the narrower model Brooks might be better if you find the B17 too wide. Or you can trim away the sides until there is no interference.
Last edited by BluesDawg; 01-21-09 at 11:36 AM.
01-21-09, 11:27 AM
#3
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01-21-09, 12:30 PM
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01-21-09, 01:04 PM
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People have handlebars below the level of their saddles???
01-21-09, 01:55 PM
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On the OCR- I had the bars level with the saddle and in fact still do. Back ache came in with the bars lower. But Boreas has a longer top tube and the bars are 3" below the saddle. That bike is comfortable.
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01-21-09, 02:01 PM
#7
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My B17 is more comfortable when the handlebars are closer to level with the saddle.
My Brooks Pro is more comfortable when the handlebars are below the level of the saddle.
My Brooks Swift is never comfortable, but it looks great.
YMMV.
My Brooks Pro is more comfortable when the handlebars are below the level of the saddle.
My Brooks Swift is never comfortable, but it looks great.
YMMV.
01-21-09, 02:41 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
Thanks for the replies guys. I'm just thinking about trying it, to see how it would feel. I read somewhere that the B17 was better level with the bars, but on my other bike I have it about 1" below and I thought that another inch would be a little uncomfortable. I'll have to give it a try.
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George
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01-21-09, 05:11 PM
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Mine are about level, less than an inch below the saddle. The nose of the saddle is STILL tilted up a little. It works for me. YMMV 
Breaking in a new Imperial...I forgot how hard a new Brooks is!
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01-21-09, 07:04 PM
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01-21-09, 09:58 PM
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Should I flip my stem?
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01-21-09, 10:15 PM
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01-21-09, 10:33 PM
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Chiropractic therapy has allowed me to maintain the 3+ inch saddle to brake lever drop that I became accustomed to 30 years ago. Must be the San Marco Concor I'm using, too, or the fact that I skipped the whole B-17 phenomenon and went directly from a B-5N to a Brooks Pro, before discovering plastic.
But seriously, the therapy has also enabled me to look back over my shoulders for approaching traffic, get through my work day without permanent injury, and stand about a half-inch taller. On the other hand, when I ride the drops it causes certain helmets to drop over my eyes a la Beetle Bailey.
But seriously, the therapy has also enabled me to look back over my shoulders for approaching traffic, get through my work day without permanent injury, and stand about a half-inch taller. On the other hand, when I ride the drops it causes certain helmets to drop over my eyes a la Beetle Bailey.
01-21-09, 10:45 PM
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01-22-09, 09:15 AM
#17
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Thread Starter
Chiropractic therapy has allowed me to maintain the 3+ inch saddle to brake lever drop that I became accustomed to 30 years ago. Must be the San Marco Concor I'm using, too, or the fact that I skipped the whole B-17 phenomenon and went directly from a B-5N to a Brooks Pro, before discovering plastic.
But seriously, the therapy has also enabled me to look back over my shoulders for approaching traffic, get through my work day without permanent injury, and stand about a half-inch taller. On the other hand, when I ride the drops it causes certain helmets to drop over my eyes a la Beetle Bailey.
But seriously, the therapy has also enabled me to look back over my shoulders for approaching traffic, get through my work day without permanent injury, and stand about a half-inch taller. On the other hand, when I ride the drops it causes certain helmets to drop over my eyes a la Beetle Bailey.
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George
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01-22-09, 09:36 AM
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I think it's important to keep in mind that saddle to handlebar height is only one part of the fit/comfort equation. One also needs to consider reach in terms of seat set back and the reach size (the distance from the centerline of the steering axis to the center of the handlebar clamp area ) your particular handlebar shape provides. You can have two bikes with identical seat to bars drop, but entirely different riding experiences. Translated, this means that on one bike I might need the bars a bit higher than on another bike with different dimensions and a differently shaped handlebar to create the very same riding experience.
For those wanting the advantage of riding in the drops, but who have their fit/comfort setup to be on the hoods for most of the time, a shallow drop bar is worth considering. I personally, like the Easton EA30 Wing, because it has a relatively shallow drop, a short reach, a comfortable flat top (at least for my hands it is) and is rather inexpensive. I find that I can't go any deeper of longer and maintain comfort. There are other choices out there that are even more shallow like the FSA SLK Compact, FSA K-Force Shallow Drop, Deda Newton Shallow, or the Specialize SL Shallow drop bars.
For those wanting the advantage of riding in the drops, but who have their fit/comfort setup to be on the hoods for most of the time, a shallow drop bar is worth considering. I personally, like the Easton EA30 Wing, because it has a relatively shallow drop, a short reach, a comfortable flat top (at least for my hands it is) and is rather inexpensive. I find that I can't go any deeper of longer and maintain comfort. There are other choices out there that are even more shallow like the FSA SLK Compact, FSA K-Force Shallow Drop, Deda Newton Shallow, or the Specialize SL Shallow drop bars.
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Last edited by NOS88; 01-22-09 at 09:52 AM.
01-22-09, 10:29 AM
#19
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On my road bikes I have run the same 2 inch / 5 cm seat-to-bars drop for many years, but proper adjustment and fit vary widely from one individual to another.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
01-22-09, 10:30 AM
#20
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I don't have to make that decision, since I use old school threaded headsets exclusively.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
