Is upright right ?
02-05-09, 10:52 PM
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Is upright right ?
I have an '08 Sirrus Sport :
https://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkM...008&spid=32218
Recently changed the stem to a 40* upright one like this :
https://www.comcycle-usa.com/ProductInfo.aspx?id=4945207
Now the bike is more comfortable. My posture is taller, and I was able to raise the saddle a bit to get more power/efficiency. However, the hand position/wrist position of the stock flat bar bothers me a little bit.
I am planning a switch to north road style handelbars, where the grips are swept back at about a 65* to 70* angle:
https://secure.actionbicycle.com/sag...l&product=5823
Considering the 40* high angled stem, and the rise of the swept back bars (about 2"), I am going to be sitting very tall in the saddle. I realize this position is not aerodynamic, and the bike will not be agile at high speed, but will it have safe handling at moderate speed ?
My goal is to have a comfortable ride which I enjoy riding for improved health and fitness. I am 45 years old, riding around a hilly neighborhood in San Francisco.
https://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkM...008&spid=32218
Recently changed the stem to a 40* upright one like this :
https://www.comcycle-usa.com/ProductInfo.aspx?id=4945207
Now the bike is more comfortable. My posture is taller, and I was able to raise the saddle a bit to get more power/efficiency. However, the hand position/wrist position of the stock flat bar bothers me a little bit.
I am planning a switch to north road style handelbars, where the grips are swept back at about a 65* to 70* angle:
https://secure.actionbicycle.com/sag...l&product=5823
Considering the 40* high angled stem, and the rise of the swept back bars (about 2"), I am going to be sitting very tall in the saddle. I realize this position is not aerodynamic, and the bike will not be agile at high speed, but will it have safe handling at moderate speed ?
My goal is to have a comfortable ride which I enjoy riding for improved health and fitness. I am 45 years old, riding around a hilly neighborhood in San Francisco.
Last edited by DG123; 02-05-09 at 11:09 PM.
02-05-09, 11:24 PM
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Have you got a picture of your bike so we can see how the bars and saddle compare in height?
Usually, you should be able to get away with the bars at saddle height or a little higher without compromising yourself - the exceptions would be people with physical problems. At 45, once you get fit you might be able to go a lot lower.
Personally, I find the bars you're suggesting to be swept back too far - I was always trying to straighten them as I ride. I like something like 5 degrees pull back. But many here ride worse than what you're suggesting - all you can do is bolt them on and give them a try.
As far as the handling of the bike goes, as long as you have enough weight on the bars to control the steering, you'll be fine.
Richard
Usually, you should be able to get away with the bars at saddle height or a little higher without compromising yourself - the exceptions would be people with physical problems. At 45, once you get fit you might be able to go a lot lower.
Personally, I find the bars you're suggesting to be swept back too far - I was always trying to straighten them as I ride. I like something like 5 degrees pull back. But many here ride worse than what you're suggesting - all you can do is bolt them on and give them a try.
As far as the handling of the bike goes, as long as you have enough weight on the bars to control the steering, you'll be fine.
Richard
02-05-09, 11:42 PM
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My bike looks like the one pictured in the first link I provided in my original post.
I have the saddle about level with the flat handlebar. When I bought the bike the saddle was about 1.5 inches above the bar, because that was what the salesperson recommended to give me "slight knee bend".
However I was uncomfortable riding that way because my posture put too much weight on my hands wrists. Later, I changed the stem to a 40* upright rise, and that made the bike more comfortable.
The only remaining discomfort has been the flat bar style. I think that for me, the palms facing down is the problem.
The angle of the north road 3-speed type bars I am confident will put my hands/wrists in a more natural, comfortable type orientation.
My estimate is that if I switch to the swept riser bar, and keep the 40* rise stem, my saddle will be about 1" to 1.5" lower than the handlebar grips.
I have the saddle about level with the flat handlebar. When I bought the bike the saddle was about 1.5 inches above the bar, because that was what the salesperson recommended to give me "slight knee bend".
However I was uncomfortable riding that way because my posture put too much weight on my hands wrists. Later, I changed the stem to a 40* upright rise, and that made the bike more comfortable.
The only remaining discomfort has been the flat bar style. I think that for me, the palms facing down is the problem.
The angle of the north road 3-speed type bars I am confident will put my hands/wrists in a more natural, comfortable type orientation.
My estimate is that if I switch to the swept riser bar, and keep the 40* rise stem, my saddle will be about 1" to 1.5" lower than the handlebar grips.
Have you got a picture of your bike so we can see how the bars and saddle compare in height?
Usually, you should be able to get away with the bars at saddle height or a little higher without compromising yourself - the exceptions would be people with physical problems. At 45, once you get fit you might be able to go a lot lower.
Personally, I find the bars you're suggesting to be swept back too far - I was always trying to straighten them as I ride. I like something like 5 degrees pull back. But many here ride worse than what you're suggesting - all you can do is bolt them on and give them a try.
As far as the handling of the bike goes, as long as you have enough weight on the bars to control the steering, you'll be fine.
Richard
Usually, you should be able to get away with the bars at saddle height or a little higher without compromising yourself - the exceptions would be people with physical problems. At 45, once you get fit you might be able to go a lot lower.
Personally, I find the bars you're suggesting to be swept back too far - I was always trying to straighten them as I ride. I like something like 5 degrees pull back. But many here ride worse than what you're suggesting - all you can do is bolt them on and give them a try.
As far as the handling of the bike goes, as long as you have enough weight on the bars to control the steering, you'll be fine.
Richard
02-05-09, 11:57 PM
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Keep moving in this direction until you get to the true "right" position ... recumbent.
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There are two types of road bikers: bikers who are faster than me, and me. Bruce Cameron - Denver Post
02-05-09, 11:57 PM
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Bars level with saddle is good, good enough to get you really fit anyway.
Are the bars dead straight or do they have a small amount of pullback? For me, dead straight is dreadful but that 5 degrees of pull back makes a big difference - my commuter uses mtb bars.
This is one of those areas where I find that static tests mean nothing, you have to ride the thing. That doesn't mean your current impressions are wrong, just a warning to ride with the things if you can.
Richard
Are the bars dead straight or do they have a small amount of pullback? For me, dead straight is dreadful but that 5 degrees of pull back makes a big difference - my commuter uses mtb bars.
This is one of those areas where I find that static tests mean nothing, you have to ride the thing. That doesn't mean your current impressions are wrong, just a warning to ride with the things if you can.
Richard
02-06-09, 12:18 AM
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To my eye the stock handlebar looks straight. I don't see any sweep back. Specialized labels this bike a fitness hybrid. If the concept is to have an agile, responsive bike, Specialized accomplished this with the Sirrus Sport model.
However, for rides more than 30 minutes the flat, straight handlebars, are not working for me. I agree with you that even 5* of sweep back would make a significant comfort difference.
Please clarify your point regarding degrees of sweep. If I read you right you prefer a little bit of sweep, 5* to 20*? Rather than the 70* or so of the north road bar I am considering ?
However, for rides more than 30 minutes the flat, straight handlebars, are not working for me. I agree with you that even 5* of sweep back would make a significant comfort difference.
Please clarify your point regarding degrees of sweep. If I read you right you prefer a little bit of sweep, 5* to 20*? Rather than the 70* or so of the north road bar I am considering ?
Bars level with saddle is good, good enough to get you really fit anyway.
Are the bars dead straight or do they have a small amount of pullback? For me, dead straight is dreadful but that 5 degrees of pull back makes a big difference - my commuter uses mtb bars.
This is one of those areas where I find that static tests mean nothing, you have to ride the thing. That doesn't mean your current impressions are wrong, just a warning to ride with the things if you can.
Richard
Are the bars dead straight or do they have a small amount of pullback? For me, dead straight is dreadful but that 5 degrees of pull back makes a big difference - my commuter uses mtb bars.
This is one of those areas where I find that static tests mean nothing, you have to ride the thing. That doesn't mean your current impressions are wrong, just a warning to ride with the things if you can.
Richard
02-06-09, 12:27 AM
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Tom,
I don't see any recumbents in the traffic congested hilly streets of San Francisco , which is where I usually ride. I see a few in flat Golden Gate Park on Sundays, when the park is closed to auto traffic and open for cyclists. They look good for that environment. But I am not daring enough to ride a recumbent alongside the taxis and SUV's of my city neighborhood .
I don't see any recumbents in the traffic congested hilly streets of San Francisco , which is where I usually ride. I see a few in flat Golden Gate Park on Sundays, when the park is closed to auto traffic and open for cyclists. They look good for that environment. But I am not daring enough to ride a recumbent alongside the taxis and SUV's of my city neighborhood .
02-06-09, 12:44 AM
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I looked at an '08 Sirrus Sport today at my LBS. The bars have a slight sweep of maybe 6 degrees. It is barely noticeable, but it is there. Most typical MTB rider bars have between 4 and 9 degrees of sweep. Salsa makes flat bars with 17 degrees sweep but no rise. Bars with 10 to 12 degrees sweep are pretty common. There are many variations on the flat/riser bar concept between the extremes of pure flat and wheelbarrow handle-like. There is a thread on this subforum started by that hornheaded creature above which explores many of them.
02-06-09, 01:29 AM
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For example, these by Nitto are very popular here:
Piccy courtesy of Rivendell
Richard
02-06-09, 01:50 AM
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Those bars probably sweep back more than North Road bars. Keep in mind that bars sweeping back that much will shorten your cockpit quite a lot. This may place you more upright than you want and put more weight on your butt than your saddle is designed to accommodate. Something like the On One Mary bar will give you the sweep without moving the hand position back.
02-06-09, 03:37 AM
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I have to ride VERY upright because of a bad back.
I added 100MM "riser" bars that I got for $12 at the LBS to my old RockHopper, plus I raised the stem to the max.
Don't worry about what other people think. IF you are comfortable, you'll ride more.
I hate being a big wind brake, but don't have much choice in the matter.
I just spin along at the same cadence, no matter if it's 6 MPH or 15 MPH. I just take what I can maintain.
I added 100MM "riser" bars that I got for $12 at the LBS to my old RockHopper, plus I raised the stem to the max.
Don't worry about what other people think. IF you are comfortable, you'll ride more.
I hate being a big wind brake, but don't have much choice in the matter.
I just spin along at the same cadence, no matter if it's 6 MPH or 15 MPH. I just take what I can maintain.
02-06-09, 09:21 AM
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The nitto bar in the Rivendell photo you provide, I think, sweep back to a greater degree than the Wald #8095 bar I am considering to use, but they are very similar.
My guess is that a sweep in the *80 to 90* might be too much, putting the wrists in an awkward position.
I will probably try the Wald #8095 bar and take a few rides. If they're not quite right I can try another swept bar, maybe one with less sweep.
Before trying any other bars, I need to get the cables and housing lengthened.
My guess is that a sweep in the *80 to 90* might be too much, putting the wrists in an awkward position.
I will probably try the Wald #8095 bar and take a few rides. If they're not quite right I can try another swept bar, maybe one with less sweep.
Before trying any other bars, I need to get the cables and housing lengthened.
That's right, but you need to consider that these are MY wrists and hands I'm talking about, it could be very different for you.
For example, these by Nitto are very popular here:
Piccy courtesy of Rivendell
Richard
For example, these by Nitto are very popular here:
Piccy courtesy of Rivendell
Richard
02-06-09, 09:31 AM
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Swapping the original stem (probably it was 7* upright angle) for a 40* upright angle, brought the flat bar closer to me , shortened the cockpit, and put me in a comfortable upright posture.
I agree that if I go to swept bars that will put me in an even more upright posture. If it's too much I may go back to the original stem. Or, I may try a less swept back bar like the Mary.
Regarding saddle, I'm thinking about getting one wider than the stock 155mm saddle which came with the bike.
Maybe the Specialized Comfort Plus:
https://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCEqS...lesRec&eid=348
I have not seen one in person, but it's listed as a 180mm wide.
I agree that if I go to swept bars that will put me in an even more upright posture. If it's too much I may go back to the original stem. Or, I may try a less swept back bar like the Mary.
Regarding saddle, I'm thinking about getting one wider than the stock 155mm saddle which came with the bike.
Maybe the Specialized Comfort Plus:
https://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCEqS...lesRec&eid=348
I have not seen one in person, but it's listed as a 180mm wide.
Those bars probably sweep back more than North Road bars. Keep in mind that bars sweeping back that much will shorten your cockpit quite a lot. This may place you more upright than you want and put more weight on your butt than your saddle is designed to accommodate. Something like the On One Mary bar will give you the sweep without moving the hand position back.
02-06-09, 09:33 AM
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Bill,
What type of saddle do you use for your upright ride ?
What type of saddle do you use for your upright ride ?
I have to ride VERY upright because of a bad back.
I added 100MM "riser" bars that I got for $12 at the LBS to my old RockHopper, plus I raised the stem to the max.
Don't worry about what other people think. IF you are comfortable, you'll ride more.
I hate being a big wind brake, but don't have much choice in the matter.
I just spin along at the same cadence, no matter if it's 6 MPH or 15 MPH. I just take what I can maintain.
I added 100MM "riser" bars that I got for $12 at the LBS to my old RockHopper, plus I raised the stem to the max.
Don't worry about what other people think. IF you are comfortable, you'll ride more.
I hate being a big wind brake, but don't have much choice in the matter.
I just spin along at the same cadence, no matter if it's 6 MPH or 15 MPH. I just take what I can maintain.
02-06-09, 09:54 AM
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Wald #8095 might have too much sweep for that bike. They work very well on old MTB's with very long top tubes (22"), but I don't know what they're like with modern, compact frames. On-One mary bars would be my choice here, or like Bluesdawg says, there are quite a few MTB bars with different sweep angles. My latest MTB commuter conversion has the stock bars on it from 1987, and I think I'll leave them on. Thay have about 10 degrees, and seem to work well enough out to 50 miles. Maybe further, but that's as far as I've ridden this one.
One point: If you are doing hills in SF, MTB bars will work ok but drops give you alot more leverage when climbing. It's less work when you can lean down into the hill by either reaching forward or grabbing the drops to pull up on the bike.
One point: If you are doing hills in SF, MTB bars will work ok but drops give you alot more leverage when climbing. It's less work when you can lean down into the hill by either reaching forward or grabbing the drops to pull up on the bike.
02-06-09, 10:57 AM
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The top tube on my bike is 20", measured on the tops side from weld mark to weld mark. It's a Specialized size large. I did not buy the XL because on that size I had no stand over clearance at all.
You are correct it is a compact style frame.
The stem on the bike now is an aftermarket 115 mm length, 40* upright angle. With the flat handlebars it's a shorter cockpit and comfortable short ride set up for me.
I've seen aftermarket stems for sale that are 135mm length, 40* rise.
The bike's stock stem is about 110mm length with about a 7* upright angle.
If I want to try the natural hand position offered by the Wald #8095 bar, which above the above threadless stems do you think might make the most sense for this bike ?
Regardng the SF hills, in my neighborhood they are unavoidable. However, I do have some routes where
I can ride miles on flat streets and then deal with 3 or 4 short steep inclines to get back home. I hear what you're saying about drops and leverage, but I don't have to constantly climb and my priority is finding comfort for the 80% time when I am riding flat terrain. Also, around here the guys I see with road bars have their hands positioned on the hoods most of the time. That's another story, but I believe it supports the perspective that north road type hand position angle is comfortable.
Regarding common MTB riser bars with modest sweep, I am considering that type bar as well, but think some of them may be too wide for my bike. Probably if the north road doesn't work then a Mary bar may be a better fit rather than the wider MTB bars.
You are correct it is a compact style frame.
The stem on the bike now is an aftermarket 115 mm length, 40* upright angle. With the flat handlebars it's a shorter cockpit and comfortable short ride set up for me.
I've seen aftermarket stems for sale that are 135mm length, 40* rise.
The bike's stock stem is about 110mm length with about a 7* upright angle.
If I want to try the natural hand position offered by the Wald #8095 bar, which above the above threadless stems do you think might make the most sense for this bike ?
Regardng the SF hills, in my neighborhood they are unavoidable. However, I do have some routes where
I can ride miles on flat streets and then deal with 3 or 4 short steep inclines to get back home. I hear what you're saying about drops and leverage, but I don't have to constantly climb and my priority is finding comfort for the 80% time when I am riding flat terrain. Also, around here the guys I see with road bars have their hands positioned on the hoods most of the time. That's another story, but I believe it supports the perspective that north road type hand position angle is comfortable.
Regarding common MTB riser bars with modest sweep, I am considering that type bar as well, but think some of them may be too wide for my bike. Probably if the north road doesn't work then a Mary bar may be a better fit rather than the wider MTB bars.
Wald #8095 might have too much sweep for that bike. They work very well on old MTB's with very long top tubes (22"), but I don't know what they're like with modern, compact frames. On-One mary bars would be my choice here, or like Bluesdawg says, there are quite a few MTB bars with different sweep angles. My latest MTB commuter conversion has the stock bars on it from 1987, and I think I'll leave them on. Thay have about 10 degrees, and seem to work well enough out to 50 miles. Maybe further, but that's as far as I've ridden this one.
One point: If you are doing hills in SF, MTB bars will work ok but drops give you alot more leverage when climbing. It's less work when you can lean down into the hill by either reaching forward or grabbing the drops to pull up on the bike.
One point: If you are doing hills in SF, MTB bars will work ok but drops give you alot more leverage when climbing. It's less work when you can lean down into the hill by either reaching forward or grabbing the drops to pull up on the bike.
02-06-09, 11:41 AM
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Hack saws work wonders on too-wide MTB bars. I almost always have to cut mine down to get them narrow enough to squeeze between the trees on our local singletrack trails.
02-06-09, 11:52 AM
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I have to ride VERY upright because of a bad back.
I added 100MM "riser" bars that I got for $12 at the LBS to my old RockHopper, plus I raised the stem to the max.
Don't worry about what other people think. IF you are comfortable, you'll ride more.
I hate being a big wind brake, but don't have much choice in the matter.
I just spin along at the same cadence, no matter if it's 6 MPH or 15 MPH. I just take what I can maintain.
I added 100MM "riser" bars that I got for $12 at the LBS to my old RockHopper, plus I raised the stem to the max.
Don't worry about what other people think. IF you are comfortable, you'll ride more.
I hate being a big wind brake, but don't have much choice in the matter.
I just spin along at the same cadence, no matter if it's 6 MPH or 15 MPH. I just take what I can maintain.
However, I did drop my stem to the minimum. I also rolled the bars back a bit from vertical to shorten the cockpit. I like it so far, but only did one 20 mile ride, with a nasty wind, so too soon to tell for sure.
02-06-09, 11:58 AM
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The top tube on my bike is 20", measured on the tops side from weld mark to weld mark. It's a Specialized size large. I did not buy the XL because on that size I had no stand over clearance at all.
You are correct it is a compact style frame.
The stem on the bike now is an aftermarket 115 mm length, 40* upright angle. With the flat handlebars it's a shorter cockpit and comfortable short ride set up for me.
I've seen aftermarket stems for sale that are 135mm length, 40* rise.
The bike's stock stem is about 110mm length with about a 7* upright angle.
If I want to try the natural hand position offered by the Wald #8095 bar, which above the above threadless stems do you think might make the most sense for this bike ?
Regardng the SF hills, in my neighborhood they are unavoidable. However, I do have some routes where
I can ride miles on flat streets and then deal with 3 or 4 short steep inclines to get back home. I hear what you're saying about drops and leverage, but I don't have to constantly climb and my priority is finding comfort for the 80% time when I am riding flat terrain. Also, around here the guys I see with road bars have their hands positioned on the hoods most of the time. That's another story, but I believe it supports the perspective that north road type hand position angle is comfortable.
Regarding common MTB riser bars with modest sweep, I am considering that type bar as well, but think some of them may be too wide for my bike. Probably if the north road doesn't work then a Mary bar may be a better fit rather than the wider MTB bars.
You are correct it is a compact style frame.
The stem on the bike now is an aftermarket 115 mm length, 40* upright angle. With the flat handlebars it's a shorter cockpit and comfortable short ride set up for me.
I've seen aftermarket stems for sale that are 135mm length, 40* rise.
The bike's stock stem is about 110mm length with about a 7* upright angle.
If I want to try the natural hand position offered by the Wald #8095 bar, which above the above threadless stems do you think might make the most sense for this bike ?
Regardng the SF hills, in my neighborhood they are unavoidable. However, I do have some routes where
I can ride miles on flat streets and then deal with 3 or 4 short steep inclines to get back home. I hear what you're saying about drops and leverage, but I don't have to constantly climb and my priority is finding comfort for the 80% time when I am riding flat terrain. Also, around here the guys I see with road bars have their hands positioned on the hoods most of the time. That's another story, but I believe it supports the perspective that north road type hand position angle is comfortable.
Regarding common MTB riser bars with modest sweep, I am considering that type bar as well, but think some of them may be too wide for my bike. Probably if the north road doesn't work then a Mary bar may be a better fit rather than the wider MTB bars.
Try some used MTB bars with some sweep. The shops will usually have a box somewhere in the back you can pick from. Just pester them and they'll show you where they keep the stuff. That way you can maybe keep the high angle stem.
Also, what Bluesdawg says...
02-06-09, 12:14 PM
#20
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We're discussing having your hands constantly in one position for long periods of time. You mentioned your hands bothering you after 30 minutes. It might not be just the hands, but also the wrists. My thinking would be that you need the option of another hand position while riding, like bar ends or another type of handlebar would give you.
I wonder how you would feel with a moustache bar or other bar that allows multiple positions on there. Remember that moving your hands would also change your body position slightly and give the other parts of your body a change that might help.
Note that the bars in BluesDawg's picture sweep forward near the stem so that you get a different angle on your hands while minimizing the amount of room they take away between you and the bars, like the Northroad bars do.
I wonder how you would feel with a moustache bar or other bar that allows multiple positions on there. Remember that moving your hands would also change your body position slightly and give the other parts of your body a change that might help.
Note that the bars in BluesDawg's picture sweep forward near the stem so that you get a different angle on your hands while minimizing the amount of room they take away between you and the bars, like the Northroad bars do.
Last edited by Dchiefransom; 02-06-09 at 12:21 PM.
02-06-09, 03:54 PM
#21
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What length top tube did the men's versions of classic 3-speeds typically have ?
I love North Road bars, don't get me wrong. But, with a 20" top tube, you'll be as upright AND possibly as crowded as a classic 3-speed. The up side is that for $16.95, you can't get hurt unless you hit a tree. Besides, you can always go back to a longer stem. The down side is that being crowded is worse than being upright. It'll drain power from you like an open manhole. If you stand to get going, you'll have the grips at your thighs almost.
Try some used MTB bars with some sweep. The shops will usually have a box somewhere in the back you can pick from. Just pester them and they'll show you where they keep the stuff. That way you can maybe keep the high angle stem.
Also, what Bluesdawg says...
Try some used MTB bars with some sweep. The shops will usually have a box somewhere in the back you can pick from. Just pester them and they'll show you where they keep the stuff. That way you can maybe keep the high angle stem.
Also, what Bluesdawg says...
02-06-09, 04:10 PM
#22
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It's definitely the orientation of the wrists which is bothering me with the straight (or at least near straight) bar that came with the bike. Palms facing down, I think, is the problem.
When I had the saddle higher than the bar then my hands bothered me, because they carried my weight my weight. Once I went to the 40* upright stem that took the weight off my hands , and hand issue disappeared.
I hear what you're saying about a variety of hand positions being a good idea. But, I am also wondering if a nice swept back grip angle wouldn't minimize the need for multiple hand positions. For sure road bar riders need multiple hand positions. And a lot of flat bar riders use bar ends for that purpose. What I read on the forums is that swept back bar users, including north roads, albatross, mary bars, and some MTB bars, all really like the comfort they get.
In the end I guess the best solution is to try different bars to find what works best for me. Once I get the cables and housing lengthened I will be able to try different bars.
Your point about different hand positions also relieving other parts is a good one, I'll keep that in mind too.
When I had the saddle higher than the bar then my hands bothered me, because they carried my weight my weight. Once I went to the 40* upright stem that took the weight off my hands , and hand issue disappeared.
I hear what you're saying about a variety of hand positions being a good idea. But, I am also wondering if a nice swept back grip angle wouldn't minimize the need for multiple hand positions. For sure road bar riders need multiple hand positions. And a lot of flat bar riders use bar ends for that purpose. What I read on the forums is that swept back bar users, including north roads, albatross, mary bars, and some MTB bars, all really like the comfort they get.
In the end I guess the best solution is to try different bars to find what works best for me. Once I get the cables and housing lengthened I will be able to try different bars.
Your point about different hand positions also relieving other parts is a good one, I'll keep that in mind too.
We're discussing having your hands constantly in one position for long periods of time. You mentioned your hands bothering you after 30 minutes. It might not be just the hands, but also the wrists. My thinking would be that you need the option of another hand position while riding, like bar ends or another type of handlebar would give you.
I wonder how you would feel with a moustache bar or other bar that allows multiple positions on there. Remember that moving your hands would also change your body position slightly and give the other parts of your body a change that might help.
Note that the bars in BluesDawg's picture sweep forward near the stem so that you get a different angle on your hands while minimizing the amount of room they take away between you and the bars, like the Northroad bars do.
I wonder how you would feel with a moustache bar or other bar that allows multiple positions on there. Remember that moving your hands would also change your body position slightly and give the other parts of your body a change that might help.
Note that the bars in BluesDawg's picture sweep forward near the stem so that you get a different angle on your hands while minimizing the amount of room they take away between you and the bars, like the Northroad bars do.
02-06-09, 04:33 PM
#23
Time for a change.
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Comfort on a bike is a problem- until you get it sorted. I used to ride the Mountain bike with straight flat bars and the bars a couple of inches below the saddle. They were also used with a 100mm stem so were pretty far away from me. The stretched out position worked for me. Then I had a bypass and had to relieve pressure on the chest. Shorter stem and I flipped it so the rise was upwards. Also got riser bars to bring the hand position up and back towards me. That gave me a worse problem in that the saddle became more painfull and no matter how much I altered the position and angle of it- It still hurt. Some few- well quite a few- saddles later and I cured that.
Since then I have changed over to road bikes and first bike was short on top tube and the bars were raised to level with the saddle. That is not as comfortable as the next bike with longer top tube- longer stem and the bars 3" below the saddle.
Setting a bike up is difficult- and there is not one single rule that will work for everyone. Hope you are still talking to us when your first attempts don't work.
Since then I have changed over to road bikes and first bike was short on top tube and the bars were raised to level with the saddle. That is not as comfortable as the next bike with longer top tube- longer stem and the bars 3" below the saddle.
Setting a bike up is difficult- and there is not one single rule that will work for everyone. Hope you are still talking to us when your first attempts don't work.
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How long was I in the army? Five foot seven.
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How long was I in the army? Five foot seven.
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02-06-09, 04:49 PM
#25
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I've just remembered that the saving point for me was fitting those ergon grips - the ones shaped to fit inside your hand with an ear for the ball of your thumb to rest on. Once I got these set right (and it took a lot of fine tuning), my hand was supported rather than having a bar passing through the middle of my palm and they work very well for me.
Richard
sorry, no piccy to hand and I haven't got time to search for one
Richard
sorry, no piccy to hand and I haven't got time to search for one