Saddle Adjustment helped
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Saddle Adjustment helped
The last several rides I have had trouble slipping forward on the saddle, unless I really concentrated on keeping the sit bones where they belong, I would gradually slide forward. This resulted in soreness about 15 miles into the ride. Did 22 after tilting the nose of the saddle slightly upward and felt much better.
I have heard of others having the same issue, is this the common fix? It did make me feel much more comfortable. Haven't done more than 30 miles or so this season but headed for much more. Just hope this makes it comfortable for the longer treks.
I have heard of others having the same issue, is this the common fix? It did make me feel much more comfortable. Haven't done more than 30 miles or so this season but headed for much more. Just hope this makes it comfortable for the longer treks.
#2
Grumpy Old Bugga
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If the nose it too low, you will slide off the saddle.
If the nose is too high, you will get pressure on bits that don't appreciate pressure.
The trick is to find a happy medium ... which many seat posts don't allow due to only offering coarse adjustment, in which case, you replace your seatpost with another one and start again.
Some saddles and some bikes can be very fussy on saddle angle. Just something else to fiddle with (which is why I carry allen keys on the bike).
Richard
If the nose is too high, you will get pressure on bits that don't appreciate pressure.
The trick is to find a happy medium ... which many seat posts don't allow due to only offering coarse adjustment, in which case, you replace your seatpost with another one and start again.
Some saddles and some bikes can be very fussy on saddle angle. Just something else to fiddle with (which is why I carry allen keys on the bike).
Richard
#3
Senior Member
If the nose it too low, you will slide off the saddle.
If the nose is too high, you will get pressure on bits that don't appreciate pressure.
The trick is to find a happy medium ... which many seat posts don't allow due to only offering coarse adjustment, in which case, you replace your seatpost with another one and start again.
Some saddles and some bikes can be very fussy on saddle angle. Just something else to fiddle with (which is why I carry allen keys on the bike).
Richard
If the nose is too high, you will get pressure on bits that don't appreciate pressure.
The trick is to find a happy medium ... which many seat posts don't allow due to only offering coarse adjustment, in which case, you replace your seatpost with another one and start again.
Some saddles and some bikes can be very fussy on saddle angle. Just something else to fiddle with (which is why I carry allen keys on the bike).
Richard
Yes, but you could also be slipping forward because your saddle is farther back than your butt wants to be. Try keeping the saddle level and incrementally moving it forward, perhaps with small adjustments nose down. We don't really calculate saddle fore/aft position, what we do is approximate a standard position then adjust from there. Why would you butt want to go where the saddle is?
Road Fan
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I first tried moving the seat forward,then adjusted the nose slightly upward, not too much. Need to do a couple more rides with it in that position and see how it works. Been carrying the allen wrench tool on rides to make mid course corrections.
#6
feros ferio
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True, but one should first get the proper fore-aft saddle position with respect to the crank spindle. Then those of us with Ambrosio or Major Taylor stems can adjust the reach, while the rest of you can go out and purchase longer or shorter stems for a proper back angle and load on the hands.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
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Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#7
pedo viejo
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If you can, be sure to wear the same shorts (or same make/model) each time you test an adjustment. The fewer variables you have, the more reliable your results will be.
#8
Time for a change.
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I had a similar problem on both the TCR and Boreas. Got the fore and aft position correct but kept sliding forward on the saddle off of the sitbones. Confirmed the saddle needed tilting up fractionally by riding no-handed. Weight started off on the sit bones- but I just crept forward the longer I rode. Slight tilt up and cured the problem.
But don't go too far- otherwise you will start causing a problem with the Pubic bone- and that does hurt.
But don't go too far- otherwise you will start causing a problem with the Pubic bone- and that does hurt.
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How long was I in the army? Five foot seven.
Spike Milligan