It also depends on what you are willing to do maintenance-wise. Truing wheels, adjusting brakes and derailleurs, definitely gotta have a work stand. Lots of other things don't need a stand but its helpful. Mounting racks, pedals, fenders, all much easier with a stand. If your idea of maintenance is lubing the chain ya probably don't need a stand.

I agree, I am getting too old to keep flipping the bike over, making adjustments then flipping it back to see if they worked, the stand makes it so much easier, working basically at eye level etc. Only have had mine for a month or so, but I am glad I got it.

Uh oh! You mean I'm supposed to lube that thing?:rolleyes:

Mainly, I'm just learning and hope to be able to do more than just clean the chain type maintenance, so not sure how much a stand will help, but it sounds like the more I get involved the more I will need a stand.

I just got the "Spin Doctor Essential Repair Stand" from Nashbar for 79 bucks. Keeps me from getting on my ancient knees to clean and lube. I'm not doing my on wrench work nor do I expect to but getting the bike off the ground is one of the most useful things I've done. Really nice to have and mine folds up so I can through it in the car to clean up the grandkids bikes.:D

While I'm thinking about it, is there a proper/improper way to clamp onto the bike? I see the stands that clamp onto the seat post. Can you also use the seat tube, top tube, down tube if needed or is that a no no?

Just curious if one way is preferred over the other or if anyway is OK?

Mine adjusts and spins 360 deg, so it can clamp on either top or seat tube. I dont think there is a right or wrong on that (for steel and aluminum atleast). I find it easier to use on the top tube myself.

I always clamp on the seatpost if possible especially on carbon bikes. I also prefer the screw type tightener to the lever clamps as it is less likely that you will clamp to tightly

Mine clamps the downtube just above the BB - I tighten it just enough to keep the bike stable. I am not sure I trust my CF bike in it though - those tubes are not ment to take crushing forces, the fibers don't run in that direction.

For what its worth there is a BF thread on making a stand of your own cheaply. Its at:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=103687

That is one of those ancient threads (2005) that recently started up again. The designs discussed are all about using common black iron plumbing pipe and parts.

If you have exposed rafters in your garage, all you need is two rafter hooks and two ratcheting cargo tie downs. You can hang the bike from the rafters at a very comfortable working height. Less than $30.00 at your local hardwate store.

I have been using this on my LWB recumbent and my wifes DF bike for years. I particularly like sitting in a lawn chair while I clean and lube the drivetrain. No more back problems from being hunched over.

Advantages; low cost and open access to both sides of the bike.
Negatives; It moves around a little. Hasn't ever been a problem. bk

Most shops clamp on to the seat post (or a special seat post replacement used by the shop to replace your seat post). They do this for a reason.......liability. They do not want to scratch your paint. They do not want to crush or bend your tubes. They do not want to kill your carbon. They do not want to squeeze your brake cables into the paint or carbon so that they scratch your bike.

Use your seatpost to clamp to, if you have a fancy seatpost or a carbon one, pull yours out and use a replacement you keep around from the scrap pile.

Race teams have changed over to the sort of stand that supports the bottom bracket. That is a result of all that carbon and verrrrrrrrrry light tubing.

Yep, what maddmaxx said. In addition to clamping on the SP, I also use a rag on top of that to make sure stuff doesn't get scuffed up by the clamp, if you care about that kind of stuff.

A workstand is just a tool, but you don't have to be a 50+er to appreciate that a good stand will keep your bike where you position it and make things easier to work on. You get what you pay for, YMMV, etc.

That's basically what I have now and it's nice. I just read that the stand will stop the swinging and make it easier, plus you can use a stand in the driveway to wash the bike.

Lots of good advice I hadn't thought about. I have a CF seat-post, so may need something different with a stand. The stand I was looking at actually is less expensive and has a screw down type of clamp, which now sounds like that is actually better than the more expensive quick clamp type models, something I hadn't considered. Guess I should bug my LBS where I got the bike and see what they recommend too.

I'm sure glad I found you folks! You are saving me a lot of headaches!!

Oh come on now!! Isn't this example rather, umm, bush league?

Sorry, I couldn't resist. :D

Geesh, I can't believe you guys. I have been perfectly happy working on my bikes and my wifes either on the floor or on the bike rack on my truck. I have even clamped my bike rack in my big vice in my garage and used that as a stand. Now you have me thinking maybe a stand would be okay.

I borrowed some of the ideas for home built stands and built my own for around 20.00.

I don't have any carbon seat posts, but if I did, I would probably keep a cheap metal post around to use for clamping the bike while working on it in the stand.

I control the swinging on the hanging setup with a bungee from a chainstay to an eyeplate set in the garage floor with redheads. I have used the setup to do complete rehabs and service, r&r BB's, headsets, brakes, derailleurs and recable jobs. I have never had a problem and haven't had to get someone else to steady the bike while I performed a task. I used the rig for about a year before I put the eyeplate in the floor, without any problems.

I think it is a great setup for the home mechanic. A pro working in a shop would probably want the stand because they do so much work on different bikes. Save yourself some money and I know you'll be happy with the results. bk

I never clamp my aluminum frame; I don't want to damage the paint or possibly crush the tube. I've been clamping to the cheap carbon seatpost that came with the bike with no problems.

I've had the bike about three years and 12,000 miles.

The stand is very helpful for:
Fine tuning the 10 speed derailleur shifting.
Replacing a cable.
Brake pad adjustments.
Rewrapping bar tape.
Changing pedals
Troubleshooting a clicking sound in the FSA crankset, then pulling the crank and readjusting it.
Replacing the external bottom bracket.
Holding the bike when a wheel is removed.
Cleaning and oiling the chain is a lot easier.
Cleaning mud, too.

I use my car hitch rack or pop the bike upside down on some cardboard (for the seat) and 2X4s (for the handlebars. However I'm intending to get a stand.

These are all the things I figure I need to learn how to do. Road motorcycles for decades and could do all the basic maintenance, so figure I need to learn how to do this stuff on mine too. Sounds like a stand definitely makes things easier.

I use my off season resistance trainer as my work stand, just flip the roller out of the way and your good to go!

IMHO its a must have. I have back and neck issues and bending over and kneeling on floor is not a pleasant experience for me. Its just so easy to put the bike on the rack and everything is in reach. I bought one after my first rebuild and wouldn't work without it. If you buy one don't go too cheap the sturdier they are the better. I have a Park PRS 9 I think it is and I wish it was a bit more robust but it does the job admirabley for now.

I cannot even imagine maintaining my wife's and my four bikes (total) with out a quality stand with the ability to rotate the bike uside down and change the height off the ground. Everthing from chain lubing to cleaning is much easier and quicker. If used frequently, mountain bikes especially neeed a lot of care.

When we travel, I carry a folding Ultimate stand and two tool boxes: one is full of spares. The ultimate wheel maintenance stand is first class and compact as well.

I clamp to my carbon seat post on my mountain bike. No issues. I've got aluminum on my road.

Al

It sounds more and more like a real good nice to have at the very least, and a must have once I become more mechanically trained on bike maintenance and repair!

I would love a bike work stand. In addition to all my bikes, my two grown boy's bring their bikes to my house to use my tools and me to help them wrench their bikes. I currently have three McGiver methods that I use to work on bikes. The hitch rack on the back of my 4 Runner works great to hold the bike up for cleaning and derailer adjustments, but that is outside and not a good option a lot of days. The second method is using the trainer to hold the rear wheel in place, that position is great for changing anything on top of the bike i.e. bar tape, brifters, seat adjustments. The third method is to use the chin up bar to hold the bike from under the seat. I built the chin up bar by hanging two 2 x 4's from the floor joist, in the basement, and drilling a 1 and 1/4" hole in the 2 x 4's then inserting a piece of black iron pipe between the hangers. The chin up bar works best for bottom bracket, chain rings, chain changes and computer sensors using the rear wheel and cranks.

Alas, another Christmas and birthday went by and no bike stand from the boy's, Fathers Day is...

EW! EW! I forgot about Father's Day! Maybe I won't have to wait till Christmas. Course my kids probably broke as he's buying a house, but maybe Mama will help him!!:innocent:

+1.

I'd thought about getting a stand for years, and finally pulled the trigger on the Ultimate Pro Elite 2 years ago.

It's an awesome pro-quality stand, that's easy to use. It also breaks down quickly, and is easy to transport (good for taking to centuries, races, etc.). When not in use, you can collapse it and it takes up very little room in the garage.

If you're going to invest in a stand, get a good one.

I was at my LBS yesterday and asked them about stands and I believe this is one of the ones they have and recommend. This one is aluminum, I believe, and they also have the metal one for about $160. Both look great and I really don't think I need to spend $100 more just for aluminum. The guy, who's one of the mechanics, said he has the metal one and has used it for years with no problems.