I picked up a new pair of Easton EA 90 SLX's on ebay for $500 shipped. They are around 1400 grams and spin up really well. I've also bought some Bontrager X Lites on eBay for less than $500. They're around 1500 grams. Mine have held up very well.

Thanks. but I want to stay under $300.

I also picked up some Easton EA 90 Aero wheels...$450 on sale + shipping and really love them. But I can say that the more you spend, the more you will notice the difference. Unfortunately if your budget dictates a certain amount, that's where you need to be...trying explain to your better half that you need more money for wheels may not be an easy task.:innocent:

Even for myself I can't justify spending half of what the bike cost on wheels. That's past the tipping point of just getting a better bike with better wheels. Hmmmmm. :D

Hmmm, yeah. And they were 45% off at that price too. :eek::roflmao2:

Maybe I can explain to the wife that I actually saved money by getting a new bike rather than upgrading piece by piece. Yeah, that's the ticket!;)

Problem with upgrading is the eventual cost. But the problem with a new bike is that it will have a few "Price" compromises fitted to it to keep the price down. Some of those compromises will not matter but some do. Heavier components for one thing will always keep the weight up and unless you have a stock of lighter parts already- then the bike will stay heavy. Thinking of Handlebars- stems- Cranks etc. The other thing they downgrade is the wheels. Not exactly a downgrade but to keep the price down- a cheaper set of wheels are fitted.

Within Your "Budget"- and mine- those cheap- heavy items have to stay on the bike till you "Upgrade". Or do they?

I buy Frame and Forks for the serious bikes now and get them built up to my spec and my budget. That way I can get the compact crank fitted that is good- the right bar and stem size and more importantly - the good wheels. But when you buy a bike- it is possible to get the shop to change the parts to something better. They will be able to sell them from their stock and they make an allowance for the parts.

Last bike I bought though was one built up by the shop. It had cheap Giant wheels fitted and I did keep them as I have a use for them. but I also negotiated a price for a good set of wheels to go on it aswell.

I completely understand and have been there myself and have learned the hard way and more expensive way. Just wanted to offer some other thinking for you to consider. However, I think you'll be surprised at how much difference the wheels themselves will make. You can postpone a bike upgrade for even longer by just spending more than what you'd budgeted. When it does come time to to upgrade your frame, you can then spend less overall because you don't need another set of wheels. Should you buy the Mavic's today, and I agree they are a good value, you'll be okay with them for a while, but at some point you'll want to go to the next step. I'm just encouraging you to think about spending $200 more and going ahead to the next step now and save yourself the $300 in the long run. Of course if you're working under a really tight budget and all you have available is $300 then any thoughts of an additional upgrade is really a moot point.

However I should add, a lot depends on the type of riding that you do or plan to do. If the terrain is pretty flat and you're doing lots of solo riidng, the Mavics are as good a choice as any. You really shouldn't worry too much to try and get to a lighter weight wheel. The biggest advantage of lighter weight wheels are hills and riding in groups and needing to accelerate, close gaps or bridge up to other groups.

Whichever route you go you will be very pleased with the upgrade in wheels. It's the biggest single change you can make to a bike to enhance the ride.

Road conditions also are a factor, if your roads are baby bottom smooth, that a super light wheel may be okay, however if your roads are cracked and broken and strewn with potholes then a super light, low spoke count wheel, may be short lived.

Couple of comments. First, those Mavic wheels are very strong and durable. Spoke counts are just one factor of durability. At your weight of 150, you should be able to ride any wheel without worries. I'm 165 and use Zipp 303's for my daily training and they have 18/24 spokes. Second, $180 for wheels for your Trek is a good investment but I wouldn't do more. If I were you, I would get them, continue to ride and save for a new bike down the road. There are some really great deals on year old models.

Here's another way to look at it. If you buy a better set of wheels and eventually plan to sell or upgrade your bike. You can always keep the better wheels as a spare set.

These weigh 1522 grams for $300. I've been running Vuelta's on my fixie for a while with no problems.
http://www.vueltausa.com/Merchant2/g...corsa-lite.jpg

Also, they are free shipping right now. Like some others have said, as light as you are, you should not have any problems with durability. And, I think you will definitely see a difference in the bike especially if you do any climbing at all. A 27mm tall rim may also be a little more aero than what you have now.

Here is a link to Vuelta http://www.vueltausa.com/products/ro...corsa-lite.htm

Psimet from here on the forums also builds nice wheels from everything I've read, Williams Wheel Systems is another but tend to run a little north of $400 now.

If you wanted a learning experience, you might be able to build a set yourself. I built a wheelset with Ultegra hubs and Velocity Aerohead rims (o/c on the rear) for less than $300.

Got a quote from Psimet as follows: "Front=Novatech A141 hub laced to a Kinlin XR-270 rim 24f/RadialX using
DT-Comp-Black spokes and DT-12mm-Brass-Silver nipples

Rear=Novatech F162 hub with Shimano freehub body laced to a Kinlin XR-270
rim 28r/2X using DT-Comp-Black spokes on the Drive Side and laced 2X using
DT-Comp-Black spokes on the Non-Drive Side and DT-12mm-Brass-Silver nipples

Estimated weight should be in the neighborhood of ~1655g for the set "

Would be about 140 gms lighter than the 2010 Aksiums. Any thoughts?

Dan

Any of the suggestions you have received will be better than stock. It is all a matter of what you want to spend on the bike you have.

Not a wheel I know- but perhaps someone else can comment on the quality.

Still favouring the Aksiums as a good wheel that I know.

Weight isn't the only consideration in an upgrade. If you get a stiffer wheelset you WILL notice a difference when you step on the gas... instant response. I didn't believe this until I got some Mavic Ksyriums - upgraded from the Aksium as it happens - made a big difference, especially kicking hard out of the saddle. The Aksium is still a nice wheel though.

If you are up to the risk you sometimes take on scambay, look for a set of Fulcrum 5 wheels in your price range. They will outlast your bike are not super light but the hubs are where it makes a difference. Surprised also that no recommendations for a custom build with Mavic rims and Ultrega or DA hubs which also can be had in your price range.

The 223's weren't poorly built, they were just 'not premuim'; as I don't have my bike in front of me, I can't verify, but IIRC, the 819's are 28-spoke. Was going to mention that, I think I had a child distracting me during my last post.

A wide variety of experience enabled me to recommend those wheels; I just throw in anecdotes when I feel it's appropriate, or when I want to.

If you really want to feel a difference, get wheels under 1600g. As others have noted you can get some for maybe a little more than you want to spend, but it will be worth it. The Vuelta's above fit the bill.

I'm building my own and hope to keep the weight under 1500g, but they'll certainly exceed the $300 benchmark. Building your own doesn't save you much money if any.

Hi there,

I've upgraded wheelsets twice and have been happy with the improved performance each time. Although, I'd have to say, the OEM wheelsets also performed adequately and reliably. My upgrades have been more about want than need. I replaced an entry level Easton set on my Giant OCR3 with a wheelset from Performance Cycle (Forte Titan brand). There were rock solid and carried my 185lb frame over 20,000 KM's. They only cost $165 for the pair (a blowout sale, regular over $300) and the bladed spokes and semi-aero rims looked great. I've sold the Giant now and upgraded to a Colnago. Just a few weeks ago I upgraded the Shimano R500 wheelset to Mavic Ksyrium SL's. Wow, if smooth has a name, this is it. They cost a lot (as much as the entire Giant cost me 6 years ago) but it's absolutely the single greatest change in performance that I've noticed on any of my equipment upgrades over the years. I'd say wheelsets are a good bang for your upgrade dollar.

Rather than start a new thread, I will resurrect this one. My 4 year old Giant OCR1 is in need of new wheels as I have found several hairline cracks in the rear rim - in this case a 24 spoke Xero XSR3 with slightly under 5,000 miles. And, I do weigh in at 230 lbs - with plans to bring that down :<)

One LBS recommends the Aksiums as my best bet under $600, and I can get a pair for roughly $210 at REI - in stock , so I can be on the road again today! The most likely alternative would be to have a set built up with Ultegra hubs and CXP33 or DT RR1.2 rims , which would be in the $350 range.

I understand that my weight on a low spoke wheel is not ideal, but the OEM wheels did last 4 years, so I'd be willing to accept that for $200. From what I have read the Askiums are pretty strong.

Strictly based on performance and comfort (currently riding 28c tires, aluminum frame, up to century distance) - would the $350 options outperform the $200 Aksiums? I have also looked at the Fulcrum 5 ($350), Easton EA50 ($300) and just about every other combination out there. I hate to make the decision only based on availability, but the weather is going to be nice this weekend!

I tend to think at the lower end of the price scale you're not going to feel that much difference between wheels. The hand built Ultegra/CXP33 would probably be better. If you don't want to build them yourself at least learn how to true a wheel. At the high end of the weight scale, you'll probably need to do it occasionally.

Aksiums may be low spoke count but they are strong. My only concern would be the straight pull spokes giving the wheel a hard life over a period of time. Just face it- some of the "Retail" cyclocross bikes have Aksiums fitted to the top of the range models and they will take a lot of strain in cyclocross. A strong wheel that will take the punishment- are cheap and definitely an improvement over the zero rims.

However- I would out of preference would get the handbuilts. They do give as good a ride as the Aksiums and I have a set of 105 hubs to CXP33 rims and 36 spokes that I do prefer to ride for comfort.

The issue with weight and wheels is this, if you take a 150lb load, on a 36 spoke wheel, spokes simply need to be attached at both ends, spoke tension, from the factory will be good enough. As you increase the weight of the load, or reduce the number of spokes, spoke tension needs to be closer and closer to optimum. This means that a 230lb rider on a 24 spoke wheel, needs a competent wheel builder, to tension those spokes properly, to get good life out of the wheels.