I sold my MTB today
#26
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I totally understand, infact I too I'm going to sell my Jamis Durango 3 hardtail and get a new fitness road bike, keep my other for "utility and backup"! I have chronic Reiter's Syndrome and found that my major joints just can't take the "pounding" of off-road riding anymore!
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Last edited by bjjoondo; 12-19-10 at 09:54 AM.
#28
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I sold my mtb once I figured out that going downhill on trails scared the crap out of me. I don't have that problem on the road.
#29
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I feel the same way. I'll never be a mountain biker. But I kept mine for the occasional trail ride. Sometimes it's just too beautiful to not do. But I ride it like a roadie. I don't slide, I keep both wheels on the ground and I hate the loose stuff.
Here's a photo I shot of my wife on the Flume Trail in Tahoe. I'm not ready to never ride this again.
Tricia rides the Flume Trail by ccorlew, on Flickr
Here's a photo I shot of my wife on the Flume Trail in Tahoe. I'm not ready to never ride this again.
Tricia rides the Flume Trail by ccorlew, on Flickr
#30
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I prefer to explore the gravel roads and trails that few other people see. I love beginner to intermediate level mtb trails. I love getting far away from everything and looking over at my mtb and seeing how that little piece of metal pipe with some wheels on it got me there.
Where are you from in IL? I live in the end with all the hills. I thought the rest was corn fields.
#31
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4 Years ago- Before I got a road bike- I used to love getting out on the trails round our way. Hardtail was the way to go for (Lack of) expense- lightness for XC and manoueverability. Still feel that is the way to go- although the Tandem did get a Thud Buster suspension post for comfort. 4 years of road and I have lost some of that offroad ability. Can still do the technical stuff but the fast downhills are taken a lot slower now.
But the fun element of mountain biking has to be tried to be believed. Just imagine climbing that scree covered slope for a mile with the lack of grip that ensues- That MUDDY grass covered hill where you have to look for the available grip to get to the top- or the root covered singletrack that you have to take at speed- just so you can bunny hop up the 12" ridges that will stop you dead if you don't- or the drop off that gives the stomach a turn as you realise that if you don't come down soon- it is going to be a heavy landing.
Been there- done that but now realise that more than the bike would break if I were to go at it as aggressively as I used to.
But the fun element of mountain biking has to be tried to be believed. Just imagine climbing that scree covered slope for a mile with the lack of grip that ensues- That MUDDY grass covered hill where you have to look for the available grip to get to the top- or the root covered singletrack that you have to take at speed- just so you can bunny hop up the 12" ridges that will stop you dead if you don't- or the drop off that gives the stomach a turn as you realise that if you don't come down soon- it is going to be a heavy landing.
Been there- done that but now realise that more than the bike would break if I were to go at it as aggressively as I used to.
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#32
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I've had a monogamous relationship with my Xizang mountain bike for over 15 years. No intention to trade her for a skinny tired thing, nor to add any others to my stable of one. I began with thick-tired bikes back in the 1950's and when MTBs came along, that's the direction I went.
As I've aged, my little gal has changed to accommodate my needs. Riser stem and bars, and a second set of tires/wheels with Marathon Plus road tires, have helped me adjust to more mellow road and hardpack rides. There are ways to 'morph' the bike to keep up with your physical changes and interests.
I'm very satisfied with a stout, strong and reliable mountain bike that can adapt for me.
As I've aged, my little gal has changed to accommodate my needs. Riser stem and bars, and a second set of tires/wheels with Marathon Plus road tires, have helped me adjust to more mellow road and hardpack rides. There are ways to 'morph' the bike to keep up with your physical changes and interests.
I'm very satisfied with a stout, strong and reliable mountain bike that can adapt for me.
#33
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I tried my first trail mountain bike ride yesterday with the bike a friend of mine sent to me. I was scared most of the time. The only time I felt safe was when the bike was stopped. Now, I have to say I did travel one flat trail through the woods with lost of turns, a few dips and some roots, but no rocks and steep downhill single track where you are out of control bouncing through rocks and roots.
I plan to box this puppy up and send it back. I got tired of being scared very quickly.
I plan to box this puppy up and send it back. I got tired of being scared very quickly.
#34
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I would think it would be wise before running around on trails scaring one's self, an understanding of the required techniques for riding safely would be in order. Apparently not.
If one doesn't understand how to ride in the classic "attack" position, then you are very vulnerable to damage. It's a stupid name "attack", but I guess it sounds better to young folks than "safe".
The attack position keeps you from going over the bars in all conditions, handle rock-strewn steep downhills and fly around rough turns at phenominal speed. That's after some practice and experience of course.
Get a copy of Mastering Mountain Bike Skills, second edition, By Brian Lopes & Lee McCormack. Then you'll be safe and fear free; or at least far safer than road riding.
I've been mountain biking on advanced trials in the N Georgia/Tenn./NC mountains for about 10 years now starting around 61. I still keep up with latest literature to make sure I'm safe while having a ball. Nothing like a refresher once in a while as you tend to get sloppy.
What scares me are the roads full of SUVs, trucks and dysfunctional drivers on cell phones and old people who shouldn't be driving. I have several books on riding roads safely as well. My favorite is written by a NY City messenger rider. Now there's a survivor.
Al
If one doesn't understand how to ride in the classic "attack" position, then you are very vulnerable to damage. It's a stupid name "attack", but I guess it sounds better to young folks than "safe".
The attack position keeps you from going over the bars in all conditions, handle rock-strewn steep downhills and fly around rough turns at phenominal speed. That's after some practice and experience of course.
Get a copy of Mastering Mountain Bike Skills, second edition, By Brian Lopes & Lee McCormack. Then you'll be safe and fear free; or at least far safer than road riding.
I've been mountain biking on advanced trials in the N Georgia/Tenn./NC mountains for about 10 years now starting around 61. I still keep up with latest literature to make sure I'm safe while having a ball. Nothing like a refresher once in a while as you tend to get sloppy.
What scares me are the roads full of SUVs, trucks and dysfunctional drivers on cell phones and old people who shouldn't be driving. I have several books on riding roads safely as well. My favorite is written by a NY City messenger rider. Now there's a survivor.
Al
#35
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I really like my old school, non-suspension mountain bike, but it admittedly sees more use onroad than off. I have neither the coordination nor the fast-twitch musculature required for hard-core technical mountain biking, to I stick to multitrack fire roads and the like.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
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#37
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Well guys I did get myself a rigid 29er it’s a GT Peace. Was about $500 and that’s a fraction of the carbon. I’ve got to say I like riding old dirt roads what some call fire roads. But you can keep the rocks, mud and sand. See you out there.
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Some folks have gone from full suspension to 29er hard tails. The bigger tires, especially run tubless (tube-type tires with out tubes) and very low pressures with Stan's provide a lot of comfort. Though 29ers are faster in some conditions, the higher gearing is not all that suited to climbing for us old guys or those suspceptible to knee problems. Some have gone to 29" front wheels and 26" rear wheels because of that.
The lefty Canondale is easily converted to 29 front and some manufacturers offer bikes with the 29/26 combination.
Al
The lefty Canondale is easily converted to 29 front and some manufacturers offer bikes with the 29/26 combination.
Al
#39
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I'm really glad you brought that up. I'm having a new rear wheel built using a new Shimano XTR disc hub and a new Mavic 719 V-brake rim, 36 spokes.
But because my GT Xizang is a vintage titanium-framed hardtail mtn. bike, I'm staying with the 26" V-brake setup on the back. I want to step up to a new front suspension fork that can handle disc brakes in the front. And you mention going with a 29" wheel. I like the concept. Especially for my intended uses - some off-road, some cross country, and some real touring... Simply by changing out the wheels/tires.
Thanks for the idea of mixing 26" rear with a 29" front!
But because my GT Xizang is a vintage titanium-framed hardtail mtn. bike, I'm staying with the 26" V-brake setup on the back. I want to step up to a new front suspension fork that can handle disc brakes in the front. And you mention going with a 29" wheel. I like the concept. Especially for my intended uses - some off-road, some cross country, and some real touring... Simply by changing out the wheels/tires.
Thanks for the idea of mixing 26" rear with a 29" front!
Some folks have gone from full suspension to 29er hard tails. The bigger tires, especially run tubless (tube-type tires with out tubes) and very low pressures with Stan's provide a lot of comfort. Though 29ers are faster in some conditions, the higher gearing is not all that suited to climbing for us old guys or those suspceptible to knee problems. Some have gone to 29" front wheels and 26" rear wheels because of that.
The lefty Canondale is easily converted to 29 front and some manufacturers offer bikes with the 29/26 combination.
Al
The lefty Canondale is easily converted to 29 front and some manufacturers offer bikes with the 29/26 combination.
Al
Last edited by xizangstan; 12-21-10 at 11:40 AM.
#40
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Or a hybrid with knobby tires.
#41
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I'm really glad you brought that up. I'm having a new rear wheel built using a new Shimano XTR disc hub and a new Mavic 719 V-brake rim, 36 spokes.
But because my GT Xizang is a vintage titanium-framed hardtail mtn. bike, I'm staying with the 26" V-brake setup on the back. I want to step up to a new front suspension fork that can handle disc brakes in the front. And you mention going with a 29" wheel. I like the concept. Especially for my intended uses - some off-road, some cross country, and some real touring... Simply by changing out the wheels/tires.
Thanks for the idea of mixing 26" rear with a 29" front!
But because my GT Xizang is a vintage titanium-framed hardtail mtn. bike, I'm staying with the 26" V-brake setup on the back. I want to step up to a new front suspension fork that can handle disc brakes in the front. And you mention going with a 29" wheel. I like the concept. Especially for my intended uses - some off-road, some cross country, and some real touring... Simply by changing out the wheels/tires.
Thanks for the idea of mixing 26" rear with a 29" front!
#42
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Be careful. The larger wheel and the required longer fork will change the geometry of your bike in more ways than just the larger wheel diameter. Your bike will have slower steering and higher center of gravity at a minimum. another option might be going with a 650B (27") front wheel. It will still compromise the handling, but not as much as a 29" wheel. Some frames can be converted to 650B front and rear, but many things need to be considered. Much discussion of 650B and 69ers at this forum. https://forums.mtbr.com/forumdisplay.php?f=135
An acquaintance of mine went from 26 to a 29 with a Canondale lefty as suggested by his local bike shop. The bike shop owner told me that he had added a spacer to the lefty fork to reduce travel. So far the rider loves it.
How it turns out will depend on the original head tube angle. If it's a slow stearer to begin with like for a more downhill bike, it might be a real dog.
I probably would not like it as I can't imagine living with that much slower steering. I ride a cross-country racing frame with 73/73 seat and head tubes which are noted for very quick turning/handling. However, my acquaintance has raced for many years (he's 65) and a much better biker than me.
Another negative I can think of is possibly frame stress. The warranty on my 2008 (acquired in 2010) Santa Cruze Blur XC frame will be voided if I exceed a 4" travel fork which is equivalent to raising the effective head-tube angle. I don't know the specific reason why they void the warranty.
The too, you have to make sure there will be adequate stand-over height. It's tough to provide suspension, stand-over height and 29" wheels all together.
All in all, there is a case for buying a frame designed for the 26/29 set up.
Al
Last edited by alcanoe; 12-21-10 at 04:42 PM.
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