The good news is tires stretch once they are used. Unless you get a flat right after mounting them the first time, it's considerably easier. In fact, I'm sometimes scared how much tires stretch and I can mount them without any effort.

A little dish soap rubbed on the rim helps too. Even spit makes it easier.

Good video, but I disagree with the toe straps and with starting at the valve. You don't need toe straps to hold the tire. And it does make a difference where you start inserting the bead. You should always start opposite the valve, and finish at the valve; otherwise, how are you going to get the bead together into the well of the rim opposite the final section of bead insertion? The final section has to be valve, because there's no room for both the valve and the two beads at the valve hole. It's like the guy in the video has contradicted himself about getting the bead into the well!

Also, wire beads are actually quite easy to get on. Folding tires with kevlar beads can sometimes be very difficult, especially when they are new. Contis are pretty bad; Vredesteins are usually pretty good. The Kevlar does tend to stretch a little, so after the tires been on the rim at high pressure, it's usually easier to get on after the first puncture. The thing with kevlar is that it is possible to mount it improperly, so you want to inspect the bead, making sure it s seated the same way on both sides. Otherwise, you may be in for an unpleasant surprise when you inflate it to 120 lbs. You'll see a bulge, with the bead lifted off the rim and the inner tube visible. You've got about two seconds to deflate the tire before it explodes...

The absolute worst thing that can ever happen to you cycling is having to change a tube in a cold rain, with frozen hands. I really hate that...

L.

Changing a flat at -35C is even worse... am thankful I have only had one flat in all my years of winter riding and don't get many flats during the rest of the year either.

I use talc... it is liking having a million little ball bearings to help you out and keep the tyre and tube from sticking / dragging and for some reason, which may be that it works, always start at the valve stem and work my way around and usually don't have a problem with anything except the most difficult tyre installations. have never used a strap and if I need to use a lever I like Schwalbe's blue levers as they are stiff and have yet to break one.

Park levers are crap, aside from their shop grade ones.

I can mount most tyres by hand... comes from well practiced technique and and from having mechanic's hands.

Worst tyres I ever mounted was a set of Avocet TT30 folders... they were 630 tyres going on a 630 rim and it was like they had been made a few mm too small but once mounted and run they were fine and could be removed and reinstalled without too much grief.

I tend to think of talcum powder as a million tiny knives. Which is why I'd prefer something smoother.

http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/...l06/Talc-1.jpg

I learned this lesson the hard way. :eek:

1+

Just put a PRO 3 on a Velocity Deep V rim today. No tools, no problem.

Working back to the valve stem you'll find the valve stem helps keep the tube in place and greatly reduces the chance of pinching as you roll that last few inches of tire over the rim.

Pretty slick vid, thanx for posting it. You could see a pinch flat coming at the 3:50 mark :).

Clothes pins to hold the beads together opposite the last push, and you can easily carry half a dozen with you. I thought of another one - two 12" strips of rubbery foam about 1/2" square. One on each side to hold that section's beads together down in the rim while you finish on the opposite side, then just pull them out. Practically weightless and ultimately stowable.