Adjust ... what?
 

OK, before I start turning any screws I figured I'd ask ...don't wanna screw up anything! [rim shot] :D

I'm still very much transitioning from a comfort bike to my Tricross, so I don't want to be hasty and adjust based on anything that will correct itself as I acclimate. In fact, due to one reason or another I've put only 76 miles on the bike since I got it last month.

However, a few things I've noticed, which were repeated on my 28 mile ride today...

• I tend to migrate forward on the saddle as I ride. I don't slide off at all, but I have to consciously get my sit bones back where they belong every so often (an inch or two, maybe ?).
• When I'm 'forward', I notice a little more relative weight on my hands, naturally. When I move back, the wieght balance between saddle and bars is much better, best I can tell.
• My elbows become somewhat sore after a while, but that may be because I'm not altering position often enough (although I find that a bit hard to believe).
• I've not experienced any hand/wrist numbness worth reporting.
• Best I can tell, my knees are pretty much over the pedal spindles, if you subscribe to that school of thought.
• My saddle is level and its height is good, based on both ball-of-the-foot and instep measurements.
• I can't really use the 'hands off the bars' test, yet. Although the Tricross is far from a twitchy race bike, it is certainly more responsive than my previous bike and I'm not quite 'there' yet. However, I don't feel like I'm falling forward if I briefly take my hands off.
• It has an 8-position (shimmed) Specialized stem. It's in the low position, but not quite as completely low as it will go.
• The saddle is about 1.5" above the bars.

Whew! That's a list! :lol:

Based on that, I'm wondering if I need to try just a tiny bit of nose-up on the saddle, or if the stem needs to be flipped. I'm hesitant to un-level the saddle, as from what I've seen this can often address symptoms instead of causes. However, the reason I mention it, is that the saddle (a stock Specialized model that eventually may or may not be replaced) has a bit of upslope on the rear under under my sit bones. I wonder if that's contributing to my forward motion.

I realize I need to build core strength (not to mention, toughen up my posterior!!), fully acclimate and all that stuff, but feedback on cause and effect would be welcome.

Thanks!

Try this: nose-up on the saddle just a little.

Give yourself 500 miles to get adapted to the bike.

I have 2000 miles on my road bike and I'm still sorting out minor issues. Tiny little adjustments as my body changes in it's fitness.

As a newer cyclist, I'm going through some of the same issues as you. At times, I too tend to slide forward on the saddle, but I've attributed this to the following...

Saddle shape - I'm using a Specialized Avatar during the winter, the curve, or back to mid-saddle slope naturally pushes my hips forward during hard efforts. Changing hip angle is part of the saddle design, to avoid this, I'll need to change saddles. I also have a Specialized Toupe where I don't experience this problem, that's because this saddle is flat without any slope.

Saddle height - I've increased saddle height a few mm to improve spinning. Again, during hard efforts, I think this contributes to moving forward.

Saddle set-back - I need to have this checked, again. I've replaced saddles a number of times and even though the position was measured, it feels off.

Stem length - If the length is to long, you may not have enough flexibility to reach without sliding forward. I started with a short 80mm stem and recently switched to a 110mm after improving flexibility. You may need to try different lengths to find what fits best.

This is where everyone will chime in with bike fit, yes, a properly set-up bike will optimize your body position on the bike.

If there is no hand numbness more than likely the saddle needs to tilt up ever so slightly. Unless that causes pain then move it back. You might move it forward one mark or just a 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch. If that doesn't work flip the stem and the ride will be more like your hybrid was.

I found myself sitting a little forward in the saddle on both of my road bikes, so I moved the saddles forward around as Mobile 155 mentioned. This helped, and I have left them where they are. If there are no marks on the saddle rails just mark the current position with a Sharpie and give it a shot. If it doesn't help, move it back to where it was.

There is a curve of "proper" saddle positions that is roughly an arc that is high and forward to low and set back. If you are still finding yourself migrating forward after you have some miles on the bike, consider lowering the saddle. As others have noted, make only small adjustments and mark/measure the prior position so you can easily return to it. Generally, anything that causes pain in any joint is a bad move.

Sounds as though the cockpit length is about right but very small changes can make a vast difference. Only done a couple of rides on my new bike and I had a similar problem accompanied with a bit of Butt Ache. Nose up just a fraction did help but I may have to Raise the bars by 1/2" and tilt the bars a bit more upwards. OR It may be lower the bars by a similar amount.

Trial and error (Without too much error hopefully) is going to correct it- but give the saddle time to adapt to your Butt. And just get the miles in.

When I got my first road bike, I was riding with my hands on the straight part of the bar because I didn't have the core strength to ride on the hoods. When I did ride on the hoods or in the drops, my arms would start hurting from using my arm muscles to hold me up. After I built up my core strength, I began riding the hoods and started sliding forward every time I got on the hoods. The bike had an OEM 110 mm stem that was replaced with a 90 mm stem and that solved the problem and I didn't have to do anything to the saddle. You may want to try a shorter stem and see if that makes a difference for you.

Yep. Try a shorter stem. Do not move the saddle forwards to shorten the reach. That will put more weight on your hands, not less.

You need to use a plumb bob (or a nut on a string) and an assistant to check knee over pedal spindle. You can't eyeball it while riding, and it's hard to get the cranks level when using the plumb bob yourself. It's probably obvious but do it with the bike on a level garage floor, not a trainer. You don't know if the bike is exactly level when its on a trainer.

KOPS is a starting point for the traditional road position. Many road racers/riders who prefer climbing to sprinting use a slightly rearward position- 1-2cm back from the spindle. Crit racers prefer over the spindle. Moving back engages the glutes more and makes fast pedalling a bit more difficult; moving forward uses the quads more and makes fast pedalling a bit easier.

TT position is completely different because the entire rider is rotated forward relative to the BB so his biomechanical relationship to the spindle is the same but his upper body is lower without bending more at the hips.

Despite my apparent non-presence, I've indeed been reading all your input. For my ride tomorrow, I'll try a minimal bit of nose-up on the saddle and see what that does.
Thanks.