Frames for tall folks
 

I have been riding a 27" frame (translates to 68.5 cm), 30-year-old Miyata 210, for....well, the last 30 years. Every time I think replacement I think complicated. I have become serious again about road cycling, and want a new high framed bike. What brand/line would you recommend? I'm in the Philadelphia metro area (north suburbs), and am willing to spend $1000 - $1500 (tops).

Is your budget for a complete bike or just a frame-set?

Trek goes to 64cm, with fairly tall Head Tubes in their "H2" sizing. Depending on how much saddle-to-bar drop you are comfortable with, they are worth a look/ride.

If you are interested in steel, I have a custom 68cm Gunnar Sport that is a great bike, just not the bike I need when racing criteriums: I now race a 62cm Madone 7 Series. I've decided to put the Gunnar up for sale (when I get around to it). Given I use a Power Meter, I only take the Gunnar out on casual recovery rides with my wife.

The budget is for the entire bike. That would just about cover the cost of your front tire!

I would measure your existing bike to help determine a size range. Older Bikes have some odd proportions and newer bikes use much shorter seat-tubes.

My 1978 Trek is a size 64cm seat-tube (center to center) with a 60cm top-tube.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...IMG_0984-1.jpg

My modern bikes are 59cm or 60cm size with a 59 to 60cm top-tube with a longer stem. The new models are more comfortable.

http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l.../IMG_08851.jpg

Many of the vintage Japanese bikes had very short top-tubes in the 57 to 58.5cm range. You might try riding a few modern bikes at your local bike shop.

I'd recommend going down town and talking to a number of Bike Dealers, where you Live.

at todays prices $1500 may get you a mix and match of 105 and lesser components

across the brand spectrum..

All will come out of Ports across the Pacific, because that is where the money went.

Thanks Barrettscv!

These bikes are below your price range, but they are very good for touring, commuting and recreational use. These come in extra large sizes including a 64cm.

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...12_-1___202339

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...2_526536_-1___

Click the link for the "sizing chart" next to the "Select an Item" on the Nashbar webpage for each bike. Look carefully at the top-tube length on these bikes. The size 64cm Touring bike has a 589mm top-tube length and the size 64cm Cyclocross bike has a 610mm top-tube length. The Cyclocross bike will fit a very large rider better. That could be just right or too long in your case.

Also the Cyclocross bike is a double drivetrain while the Touring bike has a triple. Another consideration depending on your needs.

This is an excellent example of how a local store can be indispensible. Being able to sit on a bike and take it for test rides is critical in finding the correct size for YOU.

There doesn't seem to be any thing like a standard sizing in the industry. Sometimes it seems there isn't even standardization within brands. Modern bikes are also very adjustable. Move this or that or change a small part and big changes can be had.

Pricing as far as I can tell has more to do with marketing than anything else.

So....head down to a local store where you can sit on and ride bikes. Who knows; maybe you will not only find THE bike, you will also learn enough in the process that you will get through all the snake oil and find your enjoyable niche.

Don't leave that unlocked around me. I don't know if I could control myself.

Frame size means nothing- providing it fits. I ride a variety of frame sizes and they can all ne made to fit. There is an optimum measurement though and that is Top Tube length. I like to have a certain lemgth of top tube because I have found that it works for me. 1 cm. either side and I can adjust for that with bar stem length and saddle position.

So the thing to work out is the Top tube length that suits you. Without going to a "Custom" built frame then a 68.5 cm. frame is going to be difficult to find--but that is not important. Measure your current top tube and look at various manufacturers to find a frame that has around the same length. This will be easier than you think as older bikes were short. Then look at Tall head tubes to find a bike that would be higher than you would normally expect. Seat heights are easily adjustable with longer seat posts so don't worry about that yet.

Material and you will probably be looking at Aluminium for cost but there are a few "Bargains" to be had that may get a better spec bike. Not that I like the bike warehouse deals but occasionally one will come up at a respectable spec for riding and at a cheap price.

One of which

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...0052_549659_-1

Don't get me wrong--I am not suggesting this is the best deal for your money but when it came up in my search--it is worth looking at. Largest frame is XL with a 600mm top tube. Compare that to your Miyata and see how it compares.

I have limited experience -- but enough to be suspicious of manufacturer's measurements...

I was looking at bikes this past August and rode a number of 17.5 inch bikes -- and they all felt a little different.

But, what really struck me was the difference between the 17.5 inch Trek DS: the 2012 model is simply a lot bigger than the 2013 model. I say that mostly because of the feel and partly because of the actual specs (the bottom bracket it higher on the 2012). But subjectively: the 17.5 inch 2012 feels more comparable to the 19 inch 2013 model than it does to the 17.5 model.

So, if you can, ride it first to see what fits. The specs can get you close -- but only your butt knows for sure!

Thanks stapfam - good advice....