I think others have mentioned it as well, but I would not get a fitting without putting some miles on the bike first.

Steve - Don't get too uptight about this. An LBS often has other parts they swap in exchange for the part on your bike, or they'll give you credit against the cost of a new part. This isn't an absolute; you may have to spend more on parts, but they're parts you would've had to buy later anyway.

Manufacturers have it just about right on the components they supply on bikes. A Small frame will fit the smaller rider and parts supplied on that bike will be sized towards the smaller rider. Same on the medium and larger sizes.So cranks-Bars-stem would be appropriate to the size of the frame and unless you are an odd shape-I doubt that these would be necessary to change initially. The LBS should fit you on saddle position and bar height and although you may have to change this a bit yourself to fit better- until you have ridden the bike for a while you won't know what will be the correct fit for you. The same goes for a Professional fit. What "May" fit now- will not in a few months down the line.

So Might I suggest that you get the LBS to fit the bike to you initially on saddle position and bar height and be prepared as you get used to the bike to modify those positions yourself. Then once you have adjusted the body to cycling- found out that the bike is really uncomfortable or otherwise- Then go for the pro fit--If you think you need it.

Even after the fit, you'll end up doing some tweaking anyhow.

In some years I've had to optimize my fit for longer and longer distances as I worked up to a tour. Millimeters did end up mattering. My main guides were the Zinn books, the Peter White Cycles paper, and various ideas read on BF and iBob. This year I think I'm going to get a good re-fit.

Why your millimeters cost hundreds of dollars rather than tens? I think that's another issue entirely. I agree with drawing a line on the cost, but it is a judgement call and the tradeoffs might be real. I think if you're going out to do centuries with greater and greater frequency, in the long term the millimeters are more likely to matter.

The store I worked at in my youth( many years ago) had a number of top
shelf cyclists and athletes affiliated with it. The prospect of proper fit was a key in our sales. No Fit Kit, body scanners etc. A very low tech, straight forward approach to fit. And it worked very well.

Fast forward to the systems of fitting bicycles. The basic premise is that you match the size,style and array of components to match your body dimensions. The fit systems quantify the numbers based upon sampling many (1000's) of test subjects.

The crux of the matter is that no two people are the same dimensionally.

I would offer some basic fit guidelines:

1. Position the cleat on the shoe to interface with the pedals to maximize efficient and smooth 360 degree rotation. Generally, the ball of the great toe is positioned directly over the spindle of the pedal. With modern pedal and cleat systems, there is generally a bit of float, but this position is critical for long term comfort and efficiency of pedaling.

If you are using tow clips, be certain to use the correct length and focus on keeping the proper position.

2. Saddle position is next. Up / down , forward and back, height and tilt. All of the saddle adjustments effect the pedaling dynamic.



Theoretically, there is one perfect position (mechanically) for a given persons body to fit on a given bike. Over time, a person may change, add or loose weight, the aches and pains of aging, etc. These will all contribute to the ultimate final fit. Comfort is the result of a well fit bike. This whether it is comfortable for racing, performance or just getting into
the fresh air.

I guess that I have ridden over 1000 bikes in my career, and every once in a while there is one where the fit is dramatically different. The perfect fit if you like. The sensation in one of riding with perceptible ease and a noticeable increase in pedaling efficiency.

3. The final element of fit is bar and stem related. First, look at the design of the handlebar, correct width and reach for you and your application. Note that there are many ways to "adjust the bars" to fit. Width, reach, shape are all part of the decision process.

The old school approach was, from the saddle and hands on the brake lever hoods, looking down the bar should basically eclipse the front hub.
Perfect method - maybe not, but a pretty good place to start.


Visually, the brake levers would be in the same place, but with the different dimensions common on the two sides of the human body, proper fit may require a different position of each lever on the radius of the bar.

That's it .

Feet - butt - hands , in that order.

My findings are that if you alter one element, it may require changing all of them to a degree. I have found that if you do them in a different order, the result is that you go back and tweek the other two elements each time a change is made.

One other point. I have found that as cyclists change( + or -) the fit may/will change as well. More weight up front may require a slightly shorter stem or a change of the handlebar position. A increase in the level fitness may affect saddle position and stem length, etc.

Fit is a dynamic element of cycling. I have a custom frame, using the same
drive system and components . I find that early in the year I am more comfortable with one set of adjustments, and that I will adjust them through the year. This is not because I did not hit the spec right at the beginning, it follows that level of conditioning and other - non static- factors are affecting riding efficiency and comfort.

Agree and why I go in every 6 months to have my Retul fitting adjusted.

Just had my fitting on my"new" '92 Serotta Colorado ll this afternoon. I had built it up this Fall and have ridden it quite a few miles thinking I can do the fitting myself. Well after ending the outdoor ridding and putting it on the trainer I was REALLY uncomfortable. I have a Brooks B17N saddle and I just started thinking "It's too narrow". So this week I made the decision to get a fitting. The custom shop where we bought our Co-Motion Tandem was my destination. In my mind I am thinking I need a shorter stem, the saddle needs to go back,etc.. So after I put the bike on the trainer and ride for a bit the "tweaking" started. The saddle came up by 1.5CM, the handle bars were rotated abit, the saddle was moved forward,not backward as I was thinking.
The result was felt immediately!
So for the $100 I get lifetime, on this frame, re-fittings. BTW we bought my wife a new road bike this Summer and basically went from the LBS to having her fitted.
So if you are on the fence about spending the money, just go for it. Your body will thank you!

Tandem Tom,

Where'd you go to get fitted? I'm in Ann Arbor/Detroit area, but I'll consider fitters within about 100 miles drive.

The name of the shop is Hub Bub. You can check them out on FB.

Do a search for Two Wheel Tango, Fraser Bicycles, Cycletherapy, and Kinetic Systems. They all do fittings but there are probably others - I'm looking for a good lbs myself.

Has anyone had a fitting experience in CT that they could share. I'd like to find some place that comes recommended by a BF member. I've always set up my bikes based on books I have at home. Been pretty happy but you don't know what you don't know so I'm open to experimentation. BTW this has been a great thread. Thanks to all.

I'm very familiar with TWT and Kinetic Systems. I got good advice at KS, but not a full fitting. They do a "by eye and by judgement," based on the owner's extremely deep experience. His main advice ended up to do yoga to learn how to open up my body (improve joint flexibility and knowledge of proper alignment). I got a great fitting at a shop that is now gone, formerly in Saline, MI.

I may try TWT (again!). The first time I did not feel the worker understood what I was saying. I certainly didn't think he was talking to me.

I have a new frame, a custom but not built for me, and transferring over the contact points from other bikes, one is the Saline fitting, has not worked well enough.

I don't know much about Fraser. Cycletherapy has been recommended by some strong tri riders. I'm more on the total comfort side since I want to work up to starting a brevet series.

On one bike I was very successful with a self-fitting. My main guides for doing that were Zinn's "A Cycling Primer," the article "How to Fit a Bicycle" on the Peter White Cycles site, and an Ebook from RoadBikeRider.com "Bike Fitting" by Arnie Baker. All excellent references, that are worth checking out. Bear in mind, they do not give identical advice.

I'm also finding that transferring that info (set up three years ago, so body is different) to the new frame is not working as well as I hoped.

This (http://bicycleseast.com/articles/pro...ting-pg178.htm) seems to be reasonable. I just don't have any experience with professional fitting.

Is proper bike fit important especially on a DF bike----------in a word yes. Is "proper fit" over hyped-------in a word yes.

Lets take just one fit measurement. The super educated fit specialist recommend that the saddle to pedal length be .899% of your inseam. Do you understand that the last decimal 9 represents roughly .003 inches? That is the thickness of a piece of typing paper. To show you just how silly that is, think of the fact that the difference in the thickness of cycling shorts would throw that distance way off.

I use this form from the Park Tool site to record the specs and to keep track of changes. It will give you a good idea of what is adjusted and how to measure it.

http://rad.smugmug.com/photos/i-gwFm.../i-gwFmWW5.jpg


Here is a link to download it

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...stioning-chart
I use this and set every bike up the same using a mm tape.

That's hilarious.

It seems to me that one of the benefits of a good professional fit is learning what a properly set up bike feels like. There are things that I might put up with not realizing that they're correctable.

Steve

Even with the MOST correct bike fitting, people need to remember that a DF bike will NEVER be pain free on long rides.
Wittness that an ever larger number of long distance riders are going to recumbents. Being free of pain is the major reason for this.

Will proper fit improve a persons cycling experience probably. But people that say "proper fit" will remove all pain from a DF bike reminds of the the people that tell me that instant coffee "tasted just as good as fresh perked"!!!!!!

I hope this isn't leading into another DF vs bent fiasco.

I hear ya - I have a Lightning Stealth that I rode and enjoyed for many years, so I do have the measure of "zero discomfort" biking! ;). The only issue I had with it is that it's a bit "tall" for me. The outseam size is fine, but it's a little unstable at slow speeds, and because my legs are too short to safely and gracefully come to a complete stop I didn't feel confident riding it in any kind of traffic, whether pedestrians, roller-bladers, motor vehicles etc. and eventually switched back to the DF. Had I bought something more suited to my physique, I might still be riding it.

That said, I have to say that having gone both ways, I find that I prefer the physicality of riding the DF over the recumbent. It feels like I have more of my body engaged. This is strictly a personal preference, and something that I observed even during the 8 years that the recumbent was my only bike; I always felt like only part of my body was involved with the process. I like having a choice when climbing of downshifting and spinning, or up-shifting and standing.

Oh - and I still have a yen for a tadpole trike - those are really a blast to ride!!

Not from my end - I think recumbents are great. As I just posted, I've done it both ways, and IMO there is no reason for anyone to disparage another for their choice of bikes. There are trade-offs for every type of bike, whether comparing MTB's to road bikes or DF's to recumbents, and we make a choice depending on our personal preferences, unless we're one of the fortunate ones that seem to have a different bike for every occasion!! :D

I would take 100bikes' statement about fit being dynamic another step. I think for a new rider on a new bike fit can be variable over a few days. You could spend some money for what is a "great fit" on Monday and by Saturday it's not such a great fit anymore. The are numerous reasons for this possibility including how quickly your body and fitness adjust to the activity. Even beyond this simple reason, you may find (especially as one ages) that on different days, different parts of the body function in different ways. (As an example, there are days when my lower back screams to be stretched more. On those days, the "great fit" means lowering the bars 5 to 10 mm.) All of this is to say, that I'd recommend getting a basic free fit from the shop, ride the bike a few weeks, and keep track of what feels good and what does not. This information can then be used to make small adjustments by you, knowledgeable others, or even your LBS. Personally, I don't think the investment of a professional fit would have done me much good or mattered that much the first 6 to 12 months after I started riding again.

That reflects much of what's been going through my head. From what has been said here, and elsewhere, a professional fit includes some schedule of adjustments after the initial fitting, but I'm sure there is a limit to that. I believe one of the shops I'm talking to stated a policy of 50% off on a professional fitting with the purchase of a new bike. A pretty good deal, but one that I might like to cash in on a few months after getting on the road with a basic free fit (and maybe some experimentation on my own), rather than immediately upon purchase.

dumb question: WTF's a DF?

A "Diamond Frame" Bicycle.