The Added Joys of Servicing Your Own Bike
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Toronto (again) Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6,937
Bikes: Old Bike: 1975 Raleigh Delta, New Bike: 2004 Norco Bushpilot
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
5 Posts
It is the cost of the specialized tools to do anything besides routine maintenance.
I am slowly building up my tool kit - buying what I need as needed. I did this out of necessity as I could not find a bike shop in the area that did a good job for any reasonable price. There is a definite great satisfaction in being able to true your own wheels or fixi a bottom bracket issue or doing bearing maintenance, etc.
I am slowly building up my tool kit - buying what I need as needed. I did this out of necessity as I could not find a bike shop in the area that did a good job for any reasonable price. There is a definite great satisfaction in being able to true your own wheels or fixi a bottom bracket issue or doing bearing maintenance, etc.
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Montgomery County, Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,489
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
2 Posts
I'm not sure what makes servicing my own bikes a joy. I also enjoy keeping guitars maintained and adjusted properly. Yet, I have no interest in working on my car or doing most home repairs. (Despite my lack of interest for the home repairs, I often find myself doing them to save money and/or make sure they are done correctly.) So, why do I like one but not the other? I'm guessing it's a more personal connection to my bikes and guitars. But that doesn't explain why I also like working on the guitars and bikes of friends. So, it must be something else. Perhaps it's the more immediate feedback of the task being done correctly or incorrectly. With cars, I never know. With bicycles I know right away. Yeah, that might be it.
__________________
A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking. - S. Wright
Favorite rides in the stable: Indy Fab CJ Ti - Colnago MXL - S-Works Roubaix - Habanero Team Issue - Jamis Eclipse carbon/831
A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking. - S. Wright
Favorite rides in the stable: Indy Fab CJ Ti - Colnago MXL - S-Works Roubaix - Habanero Team Issue - Jamis Eclipse carbon/831
#28
Senior Member
I clean and inspect my bike regularly and do the little things like replace brake shoes, but look at what my local MEC (the equivalent of REI) offers for a flat 85.00...
"Hubs disassembled, cleaned, and inspected. Repacked with new bearings and greased.
Frame fully cleaned and inspected for fatigue damage.
Frame and fork wiped down.
Wheels trued radially and laterally. Spoke tension checked/adjusted.
Crankset removed, bottom bracket tapers cleaned.
Front and rear hub bearings adjusted.
Derailleur and cable tension checked or adjusted.
Derailleur hanger aligned if needed.
All pivot points lubricated.
Threadlock applied to crank bolt, rotor bolts, calliper bolts, and loose hardware.
Brake cable tension, shoe height, and angle checked or adjusted. Centre orientation confirmed.
Headset checked for proper bearing adjustment, adjusted as needed.
Bottom bracket checked for proper bearing adjustment.
Flats repaired, tires installed if needed and filled to maximum stated pressure.
Stem, handlebar, seat, controls, seatpost, and crankarms checked and adjusted".
Gives me a nice secure feeling before fall touring season begins. This year they caught a dangerously worn rim, something I'm not sure I ever would have noticed. Another thing occurs to me - although most of us oldsters own houses with garages, things are changing as the population moves to apartments and condos, where bike maintenance becomes less convenient.
"Hubs disassembled, cleaned, and inspected. Repacked with new bearings and greased.
Frame fully cleaned and inspected for fatigue damage.
Frame and fork wiped down.
Wheels trued radially and laterally. Spoke tension checked/adjusted.
Crankset removed, bottom bracket tapers cleaned.
Front and rear hub bearings adjusted.
Derailleur and cable tension checked or adjusted.
Derailleur hanger aligned if needed.
All pivot points lubricated.
Threadlock applied to crank bolt, rotor bolts, calliper bolts, and loose hardware.
Brake cable tension, shoe height, and angle checked or adjusted. Centre orientation confirmed.
Headset checked for proper bearing adjustment, adjusted as needed.
Bottom bracket checked for proper bearing adjustment.
Flats repaired, tires installed if needed and filled to maximum stated pressure.
Stem, handlebar, seat, controls, seatpost, and crankarms checked and adjusted".
Gives me a nice secure feeling before fall touring season begins. This year they caught a dangerously worn rim, something I'm not sure I ever would have noticed. Another thing occurs to me - although most of us oldsters own houses with garages, things are changing as the population moves to apartments and condos, where bike maintenance becomes less convenient.
#29
Beicwyr Hapus
I'm lucky enough to volunteer at a local community bike workshop and one of the side benefits is that I can use their expensive kit such as BB thread chasers and BB/Head tube facing tools to work on my bikes.
I've not had to pay a bike shop for work for years, which suits my cheapskate nature, although I've never had to do any repairs or rebuilds of suspension forks yet so that's a big learning aim.
I've not had to pay a bike shop for work for years, which suits my cheapskate nature, although I've never had to do any repairs or rebuilds of suspension forks yet so that's a big learning aim.
#30
Trek 500 Kid
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 2,565
Bikes: '83 Trek 970 road --- '86 Trek 500 road
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2904 Post(s)
Liked 380 Times
in
305 Posts
I can't remember ever having work done at a Bike Shop other than having a freewheel removed when I didn't have the tool. I've never installed a headset though and now I've got one to do on an '83 Trek 970 road frame that I just bought from Barretscv. So I'm kind of wondering whether I should read up on it and do it myself (I do have a 32mm wrench) or let the local LBS install it. Since I'm probably buying it from "Velo Orange" I guess I'd better learn how to do it myself.
#31
On Your Left
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island, New York, USA
Posts: 8,373
Bikes: Trek Emonda SLR, Sram eTap, Zipp 303
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3004 Post(s)
Liked 2,433 Times
in
1,187 Posts
I just replaced the chain and here's some numbers.
The chain cost $45 on ebay,at a retail store its $76.
My labor is free, not sure what the retail store would charge to cut it to length and install.
BTW... I used the chain brake on my Topeak multi-tool.
The chain cost $45 on ebay,at a retail store its $76.
My labor is free, not sure what the retail store would charge to cut it to length and install.
BTW... I used the chain brake on my Topeak multi-tool.
#32
Senior Member
I can't remember ever having work done at a Bike Shop other than having a freewheel removed when I didn't have the tool. I've never installed a headset though and now I've got one to do on an '83 Trek 970 road frame that I just bought from Barretscv. So I'm kind of wondering whether I should read up on it and do it myself (I do have a 32mm wrench) or let the local LBS install it. Since I'm probably buying it from "Velo Orange" I guess I'd better learn how to do it myself.
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Toronto (again) Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6,937
Bikes: Old Bike: 1975 Raleigh Delta, New Bike: 2004 Norco Bushpilot
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
5 Posts
$76 for a chain, what is it gold plated? Most expensive chain I ever bought was $16....
#34
Beicwyr Hapus
Park Tool probably has info on how to do, as well as Sheldon Brown's site. I always used to do the cups with a block of wood and a hammer back in the '70s/'80s, just make sure they are straight and not cocked and go slowly. Probably not the best advice now. You can make your own headset press with a long bolt and some big fender washers and a nut. Same for the crown race set; a piece of thick wall 1" PVC tubing and a cap, just make sure the ends are square.
Bike maintenance is not rocket science and almost anyone can do it if they're keen enough. If they're not, that's OK, that's what the LBS is for.
#35
On Your Left
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island, New York, USA
Posts: 8,373
Bikes: Trek Emonda SLR, Sram eTap, Zipp 303
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3004 Post(s)
Liked 2,433 Times
in
1,187 Posts
#36
Senior Member
Park Tool probably has info on how to do, as well as Sheldon Brown's site. I always used to do the cups with a block of wood and a hammer back in the '70s/'80s, just make sure they are straight and not cocked and go slowly. Probably not the best advice now. You can make your own headset press with a long bolt and some big fender washers and a nut. Same for the crown race set; a piece of thick wall 1" PVC tubing and a cap, just make sure the ends are square.
It pays to check and double check, and I have found a vernier gauge has become a very useful item in my tool collection.
#37
Senior Member
But the increasing trend to proprietary parts and the increasing sophistication of materials means great care is needed to ensure the parts are what they are supposed to be. For example, tapered headsets are more common these days. The variations in BBs are considerable. Even different hubs have different bearing set-ups. It can be difficult to identify the differences, and expensive mistakes can be made.
The worst mistake most novice mechanics make with bike is applying the same force to wrenches are they would on the wheelnuts of their cars.
Yes, anyone can do it if they are keen enough. But what sort of job they make of it and how safe it is becomes a different matter.
#38
On Your Left
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island, New York, USA
Posts: 8,373
Bikes: Trek Emonda SLR, Sram eTap, Zipp 303
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3004 Post(s)
Liked 2,433 Times
in
1,187 Posts
I rebuild vintage VW engines as a hobby and over torqueing a magnesium case is a sure way to an engine failure.
#39
Trek 500 Kid
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 2,565
Bikes: '83 Trek 970 road --- '86 Trek 500 road
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2904 Post(s)
Liked 380 Times
in
305 Posts
Park Tool probably has info on how to do, as well as Sheldon Brown's site. I always used to do the cups with a block of wood and a hammer back in the '70s/'80s, just make sure they are straight and not cocked and go slowly. Probably not the best advice now. You can make your own headset press with a long bolt and some big fender washers and a nut. Same for the crown race set; a piece of thick wall 1" PVC tubing and a cap, just make sure the ends are square.
#40
Trek 500 Kid
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 2,565
Bikes: '83 Trek 970 road --- '86 Trek 500 road
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2904 Post(s)
Liked 380 Times
in
305 Posts
While I agree with you on the technical aspect, the most important thing to make sure of is that the headset is the right one. There are quite a few types out there, and the differences between them are subtle, but sufficient enough to break either the cup or the headtube on installation.
It pays to check and double check, and I have found a vernier gauge has become a very useful item in my tool collection.
It pays to check and double check, and I have found a vernier gauge has become a very useful item in my tool collection.
#42
Banned.
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: ny
Posts: 1,764
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 36 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Installation tip; put the bearing cups in the freezer for about 30 minutes before you install them, they will go in much easier.
#43
Trek 500 Kid
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Spokane WA
Posts: 2,565
Bikes: '83 Trek 970 road --- '86 Trek 500 road
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2904 Post(s)
Liked 380 Times
in
305 Posts
Your old trek has a 1" threaded headset, there aren't many choices to worry about. However with the Velo Orange headset it has a stack height of about 42 mm. IIRC the old Trek 970 was speced full Campy. If so the original headset was probably around 37-38mm stack height. The top nut on the Velo Orange isn't that thick so you could conceivably have an issue with having enough threads for the top nut.
Installation tip; put the bearing cups in the freezer for about 30 minutes before you install them, they will go in much easier.
Installation tip; put the bearing cups in the freezer for about 30 minutes before you install them, they will go in much easier.
#44
VoodooChile
Join Date: May 2008
Location: AZ
Posts: 1,048
Bikes: Salsa Casseroll
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I'm not sure what makes servicing my own bikes a joy. I also enjoy keeping guitars maintained and adjusted properly. Yet, I have no interest in working on my car or doing most home repairs. (Despite my lack of interest for the home repairs, I often find myself doing them to save money and/or make sure they are done correctly.) So, why do I like one but not the other? I'm guessing it's a more personal connection to my bikes and guitars. But that doesn't explain why I also like working on the guitars and bikes of friends. So, it must be something else. Perhaps it's the more immediate feedback of the task being done correctly or incorrectly. With cars, I never know. With bicycles I know right away. Yeah, that might be it.