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Chain ?
Is there a problem running a SRAM or KMC chain with Shimano derailleurs? The shimano chains are a little higher in price and don't seem to wear well. I like the idea of getting the SRAM 10 speed with the power link included. Any favorites? Thanks for any input.
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Originally Posted by Rons
(Post 16788692)
Is there a problem running a SRAM or KMC chain with Shimano derailleurs? The shimano chains are a little higher in price and don't seem to wear well. I like the idea of getting the SRAM 10 speed with the power link included. Any favorites? Thanks for any input.
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No there's never a problem with chain brands as long as the width (ie, 9s vs.10s).
Chains are one o the most standardized parts on a bicycle, and roller width and diameter is the same across all brands. There are differences in the shapes of the plates which can affect shifting a bit, but all chains run the same. |
A chain brand thread. I think that it's kind of like choosing an appropriate lubricant for your chain. People whom I respect have very strongly held but conflicting opinions regarding chain brands. I think you'll be better served to stick to non-controversial topics like religion or politics.
I prefer SRAM chains myself but don't ask me why. |
Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
(Post 16788920)
A chain brand thread. I think that it's kind of like choosing an appropriate lubricant for your chain.
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
(Post 16788926)
Hey!!!!!
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
(Post 16788942)
I'll get back to you when the chain lube in my little bottle runs out - provided I don't die first. I don't use very much.
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
(Post 16788951)
I guess I shouldn't hold my breath.
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I've run both Shimano and Sram , I've not noticed any difference in wear
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
(Post 16788963)
If you're depending on the profit from my chain lube purchases to upgrade your lifestyle, you should probably get comfortable with the way that you're living now. On the upside, you are on my list of vendors that I plan to try.
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OCD folks prefer one brand for the entire drivetrain.
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Originally Posted by JanMM
(Post 16788986)
OCD folks prefer one brand for the entire drivetrain.
Speaking of which, anybody know what color FB's chain lube turns when it gets a little dirty? |
Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
(Post 16788920)
A chain brand thread. I think that it's kind of like choosing an appropriate lubricant for your chain. People whom I respect have very strongly held but conflicting opinions regarding chain brands. I think you'll be better served to stick to non-controversial topics like religion or politics.
I prefer SRAM chains myself but don't ask me why. |
Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
(Post 16788996)
Speaking of which, anybody know what color FB's chain lube turns when it gets a little dirty? |
Originally Posted by FBinNY
(Post 16789021)
That's easy. get a deck of cards, find the ace of spades. That's very close to the color.
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I like KMC's 9 and 10 speed chains because of the way they are riveted. I've used SRAM in the past without issue. I bought both these brands because of the easy-to-use joining link, which has been made even easier with acquisition of a pair of link pliers.
I will use Shimano chains if the price is right for the model I am after, but refuse to use their rivet system to join them, and opt instead for a KMC joiner link. I strongly believe using a rivet to join a chain, whether it is a Shimano or some other brand, is what leads to many chain failures, likely because it hasn't been inserted properly and backed off as in the instructions. I just find it so inconvenient when putting a chain on the bike. It's probably why I won't ever get a job at a bike shop. I think KMC 9 and 10 speed chains can't be joined again using just the rivet because of how they are designed. |
The only chain that gave me a problem was an SRAM with a Powerlink, I threw that b!tch off just as I was heading up an onramp and had just shifted. The bike shop not 50 feet from did not have a spare to help me out so I had to call for sag support from a co-worker. As cheap as they are I just bought a new one and made d@mn sure the Powerlink was installed properly. Not a problem since...
I changed bikes and am riding a Shimano 105 group with a CN-5701 :p |
I've used Shimano, KMC, SRAM and Campy......all good.
My experience has been the SRAM masterlink can only be removed with the Link Tool. However's KMC's quick link can easily be removed by hand. |
Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
(Post 16788996)
Truth be told, I select my bike chains based on color. Which is really dumb because I'm not the kind of rider who cleans his chain after every ride.
Speaking of which, anybody know what color FB's chain lube turns when it gets a little dirty? Come to think of it, wouldn't that be cool to have the chains themselves change color as they wear? |
lube?
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Originally Posted by jppe
(Post 16790167)
I've used Shimano, KMC, SRAM and Campy......all good.
My experience has been the SRAM masterlink can only be removed with the Link Tool. However's KMC's quick link can easily be removed by hand. Have never had a masterlink of either brand fail but in recent years have given spare KMC masterlinks to two tandem teams stranded on the roadside by masterlink failures - don't know what brands. I always carry a couple of the KMC ones - bought a bunch of them on Amazon. |
Originally Posted by JanMM
(Post 16790628)
Just the opposite of my experience - had to get a Park masterlink tool when I started using KMC chains/masterlinks after years of no problems with SRAM.
Have never had a masterlink of either brand fail but in recent years have given spare KMC masterlinks to two tandem teams stranded on the roadside by masterlink failures - don't know what brands. I always carry a couple of the KMC ones - bought a bunch of them on Amazon. |
Originally Posted by Wogster
(Post 16790981)
I suspect that master link failures are master links not installed properly....
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Originally Posted by jppe
(Post 16790167)
I've used Shimano, KMC, SRAM and Campy......all good.
My experience has been the SRAM masterlink can only be removed with the Link Tool. However's KMC's quick link can easily be removed by hand. 1. A non-latching type which can be removed with bare fingers; (SRAM 8s & 9s PowerLINK, KMC calls it "reusable"). 2. A latching type that needs a tool to separate; (SRAM 10s & 11s PowerLOCK, KMC calls it "non-reusable"). |
Originally Posted by Shimagnolo
(Post 16791048)
SRAM and KMC both make two types of links:
1. A non-latching type which can be removed with bare fingers; (SRAM 8s & 9s PowerLINK, KMC calls it "reusable"). 2. A latching type that needs a tool to separate; (SRAM 10s & 11s PowerLOCK, KMC calls it "non-reusable"). |
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