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56 or 58 Diverge

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56 or 58 Diverge

Old 08-29-17, 01:46 PM
  #1  
tersh
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56 or 58 Diverge

First post so please help...I am new to cycling although I used to do a lot of mtn biking years ago...I'm attempting to get into something like a Diverge, synapse, sportif, or domane....So far I sorta leaning towards the diverge...I was sized up at Local Specialized dealer and they thought I should be in a 56...I rode the 58 first then the 56...The 56 made me feel like I had a little too much weight distributed into my shoulders and I have bad shoulders from banging weights for a long time...Even though I was ever so slightly stretched out on the 58 I didn't have as much pressure into my shoulders...One of the issue that the Specilized dealers told me was that I didn't have enough clearance on the 58 when standing over it....I could still stand flat footed but the top tube was starting to get "up there" if u will..I guess it's also important for me to say that I'm 5'11 without shoes, wear a 32 inch inseam but I do have a longer torso...I also rode a domane at a trek dealer and without a doubt if I was going to get one of those it would be a 58 for sure...Perhaps the diverge just isn't the bike for me...any thoughts or recommendations...thanks to all who respond...
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Old 08-29-17, 03:35 PM
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I think you can get the same fit on typically three different sizes of a bike by swapping out the stem and using (or removing) spacers, along with raising or lowering the saddle of course. On each size, these changes can affect handling in ways you may or may not notice and may or may not like.

For example, I have a Fuji Sportif in 52cm and a 2018 Diverge in 56cm. After getting the saddle in the correct height and fore-aft for my legs -- i.e. the same on each bike -- I also now have the exact same saddle-to-handlebar reach and drop on both bikes, with different stems and spacers.

In other words, you could get the same fit on either size and either brand. Having done so, you might find one might handle better than the other, or you may not even notice a difference.

Standover height is one thing you can't change, so that's something to keep in mind.

Last edited by curttard; 08-29-17 at 03:39 PM.
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Old 08-29-17, 06:04 PM
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5' 11", inseam 31-32", have a 56 Diverge (2016), so my torso is a but longish wrt my height. If you get too large a bike you will end up being too upright and stretched, as your saddle will sit lower wrt your bars. I think 56 cm is just right for me. I wouldn't want to be any more upright. I think addressing that is most important - you can always change your stem length. I also have shoulder issued from lifting (bursitis). Futureshock may help there.
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Old 08-29-17, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by GeneO View Post
5' 11", inseam 31-32", have a 56 Diverge (2016), so my torso is a but longish wrt my height. If you get too large a bike you will end up being too upright and stretched, as your saddle will sit lower wrt your bars. I think 56 cm is just right for me. I wouldn't want to be any more upright. I think addressing that is most important - you can always change your stem length. I also have shoulder issued from lifting (bursitis). Futureshock may help there.
Not sure I agree that a larger frame (56 - 58) will automatically make you more 'upright and stretched'. As stated by someone else (@curttard) , usually you can make any two 'between' sizes work OK with setback posts, stems, bars, etc. Some times a larger frame with taller headtube can eliminate the need for spacers under the stem. A more 'slam that stem' appearance at the front end. Many call it a more streamlined look

I find a size UP decision (for me) results in a more stable handling bike; theoretically, a longer wheelbase. A size DOWN decision results in a bit quicker handling, more agile frame.

I haven't side-by-side looked at the various geometries on models mentioned, therefore my comments are mostly useless. First road bike for the OP, so we have no idea his riding style or feel for the roadie position. 56 or 58? Not for me to say.

@tersh - welcome to BF.
Ride a few bikes, with tires the width you expect to use.
Don't hurry. Bargain season for price reductions is just starting.
Have fun.
Rubber side down, at all times.

edit: Spesh Diverge has slightly wider tires as stock. Geometries not that different but with Diverge having slightly longer ETT. Both have headtubes close for similar sizes. I would say there are so many versions and both Al and CF frame versions, that tersh just needs to ride until the right color/cockpit speaks a siren's call.

Sometimes the bike chooses the right rider ......

Last edited by Wildwood; 08-29-17 at 06:56 PM.
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Old 08-29-17, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildwood View Post
Not sure I agree that a larger frame (56 - 58) will automatically make you more 'upright and stretched'. As stated by someone else (@curttard) , usually you can make any two 'between' sizes work OK with setback posts, stems, bars, etc. Some times a larger frame with taller headtube can eliminate the need for spacers under the stem. A more 'slam that stem' appearance at the front end. Many call it a more streamlined look

I find a size UP decision (for me) results in a more stable handling bike; theoretically, a longer wheelbase. A size DOWN decision results in a bit quicker handling, more agile frame.

I haven't side-by-side looked at the various geometries on models mentioned, therefore my comments are mostly useless. First road bike for the OP, so we have no idea his riding style or feel for the roadie position. 56 or 58? Not for me to say.

@tersh - welcome to BF.
Ride a few bikes, with tires the width you expect to use.
Don't hurry. Bargain season for price reductions is just starting.
Have fun.
Rubber side down, at all times.
In general, a larger frame means the bars (or stack) will be higher, but your seat will be at the same height as a smaller size since the bottom bracket height doesn't increase. It is a little dicey as the reach also increases - you may not be able to fix that with stem length or or setback. Your saddle will definitely be lower wrt to the bars with a larger frame.

Last edited by GeneO; 08-29-17 at 06:57 PM.
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Old 08-29-17, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by GeneO View Post
In general, a larger frame means the bars (or stack) will be higher, but your seat will be at the same height as a smaller size since the bottom bracket height doesn't increase. It is a little dicey as the reach also increases - you may not be able to fix that with stem length or or setback. Your saddle will definitely be lower wrt to the bars with a larger frame.

Totally agree with you.
But this is a person's first road bike and first bicycle since a mtn bike years ago.
Those mtn bikes have long wheelbases.
With the shorter headtube on a size 56, maybe 2+cm of spacers are needed to get the bars where needed. On a size 58 with 2+cm of more headtube, no spacers needed. OP also claims longer torso, so the TT should not be a problem, especially on this style of bike (ie, short-ish top tubes).

My guess is @tersh will test ride until finding a frame or two that 'feel' right for his cycling experience. At that point a choice between SRAM and Shimano cockpit and tire width will weigh more heavily than presently.
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Old 08-29-17, 07:45 PM
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Thanks for the responses so far...I may have forgot to include this info in my initial post as well...I am thinking that my goal might be to have the seat almost level or below the height of my handlebars so that I am not leaning so far forward causing more pressure in my shoulders...I'm guessing that this could be accomplished with a 58 but not with a 56...I'm assuming that on a 56 I will have more seat post showing which will put me in slightly tilted forward position which will cause me increased shoulder pain...would using a shorter stem on a 58 help me solve this issue??
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Old 08-29-17, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by tersh View Post
Thanks for the responses so far...I may have forgot to include this info in my initial post as well...I am thinking that my goal might be to have the seat almost level or below the height of my handlebars so that I am not leaning so far forward causing more pressure in my shoulders...I'm guessing that this could be accomplished with a 58 but not with a 56...I'm assuming that on a 56 I will have more seat post showing which will put me in slightly tilted forward position which will cause me increased shoulder pain...would using a shorter stem on a 58 help me solve this issue??
I think you really need to try out both sizes for an extended test ride to really know.
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Old 08-29-17, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by tersh View Post
Thanks for the responses so far...I may have forgot to include this info in my initial post as well...I am thinking that my goal might be to have the seat almost level or below the height of my handlebars so that I am not leaning so far forward causing more pressure in my shoulders...I'm guessing that this could be accomplished with a 58 but not with a 56...I'm assuming that on a 56 I will have more seat post showing which will put me in slightly tilted forward position which will cause me increased shoulder pain...would using a shorter stem on a 58 help me solve this issue??
Not enough info to answer precisely - but Yes, getting a level seatmast and h'bars on a 56 for a person your height would possibly require a rather elevating stem. Depends on many factors like femur length, etc.
Maybe look at a 60cm with 9-10cm of stem and Salsa Short 'n Shallow bars.
The Spesh comes with 30 or 32 tires, enough to take you on any gravel but the most knarly.

Don't forget Giant, Fuji, Soma, Waterford's Gunnars, Surly, and many others.
Ask to ride them.

You are looking for what used to be called 'sport touring bikes'.
They would run 27"X1 3/8", take fenders, relaxed angles, stretched wheelbase over racing models.
These bikes being considered are of course upgraded with all the new technology.
If not going disc, I saw direct mount brakes on more than 1 model.
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Old 08-30-17, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by tersh View Post
Thanks for the responses so far...I may have forgot to include this info in my initial post as well...I am thinking that my goal might be to have the seat almost level or below the height of my handlebars so that I am not leaning so far forward causing more pressure in my shoulders...I'm guessing that this could be accomplished with a 58 but not with a 56...I'm assuming that on a 56 I will have more seat post showing which will put me in slightly tilted forward position which will cause me increased shoulder pain...would using a shorter stem on a 58 help me solve this issue??
My 52cm Fuji Sportif and 56cm Diverge E5 Comp both have handlebars just below saddle level. Sportif has a 120mm stem at 7deg, the Diverge has a 100mm stem at -7deg.
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Old 08-30-17, 05:21 PM
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Here is my 56 cm 2016 Diverge (I am 5' 11", 31-32" inseam). Saddle a little bit higher than bars.


Last edited by GeneO; 09-07-17 at 11:53 PM.
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Old 08-30-17, 09:14 PM
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You say you "wear a 32" inseam" implying this is your pants inseam, not your cycling inseam, which makes a big difference! It can really help with bike fit discussions to know your cycling inseam (i.e. measure from the floor without shoes to an object pushed firmly into your crotch, such as hardback book).

My own experience is that I bought a bike that was slightly too small for me (a medium-frame Giant TCX roughly equivalent to a 54cm, and I am 177cm/5'9.5", inseam of 87cm/34.25"). This has been really hard to fit, and I found the saddle to bar drop too much for me with the default 90mm stem, even with it flipped up, because I had to raise my saddle relatively high in relationship to the head tube. If you have a long inseam for your height, I would suggest going up a size and possibly getting a shorter stem if reach becomes a problem.

For my next bike, a Specialised Roubaix, I tired both 54cm and 56cm and decided the 56cm felt more comfortable. The bars are about 25mm higher and I am more stretched out, allowing me to relax my shoulders more.

Generally you can make a frame size difference of 2cm work either way, but one will be better! I've bought 2 saddles and 3 stems trying to get my "wrong-sized" Giant to work....and after 6 months, I'm just about there. Avoiding this hassle and expense is recommended :-)
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Old 09-07-17, 08:05 PM
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Go with the 56cm - unless you have a compelling reason to size up. I'm an inch taller, inseam 2" longer than you. My LBS put me on a 56cm Roubaix to test and i eventually went with a 56cm Cannondale.
FWIW, last winter I trained indoors at the LBS, I tried both 55.5cm and 58cm Norcos for high intensity sessions (1 and 2 hours). 58cm made me feel too stretched out but I could kludge it to survive the 2 hour endurance sessions without too much discomfort.
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