Have I really made to buy wrong size
10-21-17, 05:48 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Have I really made to buy wrong size
Trek Emonda ARL 6. Frame size 54 cm. Im (at least was at last check) 175cm tall and inseam 83cm in bike shorts. I bought this bike "quick shopping" due to a good price offer..... but when I set the saddle height with the pedal in line with the seat tube and the leg straight with shoes and heel on pedal "I feel like on a mountain and see the handlebar far down in a valley"
Worst is it don't seems to be room enough for any more headset spacers! Any suggestion are very welcome.
Regards
hsea17
Worst is it don't seems to be room enough for any more headset spacers! Any suggestion are very welcome.
Regards
hsea17
10-21-17, 08:54 AM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks a lot, btw didn't know it was possible to get so extreme stems and I really hope one of the stores ship Internationally!hsea17
10-21-17, 10:07 PM
#4
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Thread Starter
One more question. The factory delivered stem on the 54cm Emonda is 100mm /7 degree and head tube length 15.5. If I think higher head tube as on the 56 frame Emonda which is 17 how long approximately should I buy the extreme high rise stem?
Thanks
hsea17
Thanks
hsea17
10-21-17, 10:34 PM
#5
Senior Member
https://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php
Use this to compare. Generally if you went to a 17 degree rise stem, you would raise your bars by about 2cm.
Use this to compare. Generally if you went to a 17 degree rise stem, you would raise your bars by about 2cm.
10-22-17, 06:20 AM
#6
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I say, have some faith in the designers of the bike and the hundreds of folks that ride with this geometry.
At least give it a try before you immediately start swapping parts. It may seem like an uncomfortable position based on your current perception. But remember that there is actually a reason bikes are designed a certain way.
You obviously bought a road bike because you desire the performance it offers. Like I said, try it for several rides before making any drastic decisions.
At least give it a try before you immediately start swapping parts. It may seem like an uncomfortable position based on your current perception. But remember that there is actually a reason bikes are designed a certain way.
You obviously bought a road bike because you desire the performance it offers. Like I said, try it for several rides before making any drastic decisions.
10-22-17, 06:23 AM
#7
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Also, for those that want to help you, it would be nice to know more about you. Where and what distances do you intend to ride? What are your goals for riding? Are you looking to challenge yourself and push your fitness level? These things matter.
10-22-17, 12:04 PM
#8
Senior Member
I say, have some faith in the designers of the bike and the hundreds of folks that ride with this geometry.
At least give it a try before you immediately start swapping parts. It may seem like an uncomfortable position based on your current perception. But remember that there is actually a reason bikes are designed a certain way.
You obviously bought a road bike because you desire the performance it offers. Like I said, try it for several rides before making any drastic decisions.
At least give it a try before you immediately start swapping parts. It may seem like an uncomfortable position based on your current perception. But remember that there is actually a reason bikes are designed a certain way.
You obviously bought a road bike because you desire the performance it offers. Like I said, try it for several rides before making any drastic decisions.
10-22-17, 12:10 PM
#9
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What's your saddle height? Based on your inseam, I would assume around 73cm. The stack height at your saddle above the bottom bracket is around 70cm. Meanwhile, according to the geometry charts, the stack height of the frame is 55.5cm. You didn't mention if you bought the bike used, or if the steerer tube has been cut. The Emonda comes with a 15mm spacer cone and around 30mm of spacers below the stem. Combined with a 7 degree, 100mm stem, the headset and stem add another 11.5cm of stack height.
If the steerer has not been cut, the stack height at the front is around 67cm, which is a 3cm saddle to bar drop. This doesn't seem like the mountain to valley difference that you described in the OP, and certainly does not call for a extreme riser stem. Race geometry road bikes are designed to be ridden with the bars lower than the saddle.
If the steerer has not been cut, the stack height at the front is around 67cm, which is a 3cm saddle to bar drop. This doesn't seem like the mountain to valley difference that you described in the OP, and certainly does not call for a extreme riser stem. Race geometry road bikes are designed to be ridden with the bars lower than the saddle.
10-22-17, 02:45 PM
#10
Senior Member
If your leg is straight, your saddle may be too high. When you pedal backwards, do your hips rock? If so, lowering your seatpost is a good idea.
10-22-17, 07:09 PM
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I say, have some faith in the designers of the bike and the hundreds of folks that ride with this geometry.
At least give it a try before you immediately start swapping parts. It may seem like an uncomfortable position based on your current perception. But remember that there is actually a reason bikes are designed a certain way.
You obviously bought a road bike because you desire the performance it offers. Like I said, try it for several rides before making any drastic decisions.
At least give it a try before you immediately start swapping parts. It may seem like an uncomfortable position based on your current perception. But remember that there is actually a reason bikes are designed a certain way.
You obviously bought a road bike because you desire the performance it offers. Like I said, try it for several rides before making any drastic decisions.
Thanks for the reply. I will not change any parts immediately but because I'm in between sizes look for an option if the riding still feels uncomfortable after a "get used to period"
10-22-17, 07:26 PM
#12
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Thread Starter
I'm in the over 50 age cyclists. Previously been into Triathlon and occasionally still do some sprint races for fun but triathlon training over many years have taken its toll on the body so my cycling distances are regarded as short in the cycling society and mostly around two hours riding +-
10-22-17, 07:36 PM
#13
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Thread Starter
What's your saddle height? Based on your inseam, I would assume around 73cm. The stack height at your saddle above the bottom bracket is around 70cm. Meanwhile, according to the geometry charts, the stack height of the frame is 55.5cm. You didn't mention if you bought the bike used, or if the steerer tube has been cut. The Emonda comes with a 15mm spacer cone and around 30mm of spacers below the stem. Combined with a 7 degree, 100mm stem, the headset and stem add another 11.5cm of stack height.
If the steerer has not been cut, the stack height at the front is around 67cm, which is a 3cm saddle to bar drop. This doesn't seem like the mountain to valley difference that you described in the OP, and certainly does not call for a extreme riser stem. Race geometry road bikes are designed to be ridden with the bars lower than the saddle.
If the steerer has not been cut, the stack height at the front is around 67cm, which is a 3cm saddle to bar drop. This doesn't seem like the mountain to valley difference that you described in the OP, and certainly does not call for a extreme riser stem. Race geometry road bikes are designed to be ridden with the bars lower than the saddle.
I probably should (to fit the bike) sit on 73cm but then I feel compressed so have previously been on 74.5 and nose of saddle to handlebar 49.5 cm. Anyway and in my age it seems I'm shrinking
because then years ago my saddle height was 75,5cm. I will have to get myself measured again soon and will do when my better half is in the door to help out get it correctly. Btw,the bike is new and suppose to be 2017 model.
10-22-17, 07:44 PM
#14
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10-22-17, 09:10 PM
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I probably should (to fit the bike) sit on 73cm but then I feel compressed so have previously been on 74.5 and nose of saddle to handlebar 49.5 cm. Anyway and in my age it seems I'm shrinking because then years ago my saddle height was 75,5cm. I will have to get myself measured again soon and will do when my better half is in the door to help out get it correctly. Btw,the bike is new and suppose to be 2017 model.
because then years ago my saddle height was 75,5cm. I will have to get myself measured again soon and will do when my better half is in the door to help out get it correctly. Btw,the bike is new and suppose to be 2017 model.
10-23-17, 01:10 AM
#16
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Thread Starter
Once you figure out your exact saddle height, multiply that by 0.96 to get the vertical height. Subtract 67cm, and you have your saddle to bar drop. If it turns out to be around 5-6cm, that is a fairly typical amount of drop for a recreational/enthusiast rider. As I mentioned before, race geometry bikes are designed to be ridden this way. If you prefer a more upright position, then a endurance or touring geometry is a better choice for what you are looking for. Sizing up in order to change the intended geometry is the wrong way to look at this. Pick the geometry that is appropriate for your style of riding, and then choose the correct size. From everything you have told us so far, a 54cm is likely to be the best size for you.
I allow me to ask where the formula 0.96 and 67 comes from?
10-23-17, 08:34 AM
#17
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0.96 is sin(73.7 degrees). 73.7 degrees is your seat tube angle. Hypothetically, if your saddle height is 100cm, measured along the seat tube, it will be 96cm above the bottom bracket, measured vertically.
67cm of stack height at your bars is explained in my first post in this thread. You have 55.5cm stack height to the top of your head tube, plus another 11.5cm from the headset spacers and positive stem.
67cm of stack height at your bars is explained in my first post in this thread. You have 55.5cm stack height to the top of your head tube, plus another 11.5cm from the headset spacers and positive stem.
10-23-17, 09:54 AM
#18
don't try this at home.
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Your method of putting your heel on the pedal with a straight leg is fine. That's how I do my initial setup, and then rarely raise or lower the saddle more than a few mm. When I pedal on the ball of my foot, my leg has the appropriate bend. (Don't tilt your hips to get your heel to the pedal, of course.)
When I was working on where I wanted my bars, I got an inexpensive adjustable stem from Performance. I could change the tilt and try different heights quickly.
Post a photo of your bike from the side, with the camera held level at the height of the top tube.
A couple of questions:
Your stem has a 7 degree rise. Perhaps it's flipped, angled more downward than upward?
How many spacers under the stem?
When I was working on where I wanted my bars, I got an inexpensive adjustable stem from Performance. I could change the tilt and try different heights quickly.
Post a photo of your bike from the side, with the camera held level at the height of the top tube.
A couple of questions:
Your stem has a 7 degree rise. Perhaps it's flipped, angled more downward than upward?
How many spacers under the stem?
10-24-17, 12:32 AM
#19
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Your method of putting your heel on the pedal with a straight leg is fine. That's how I do my initial setup, and then rarely raise or lower the saddle more than a few mm. When I pedal on the ball of my foot, my leg has the appropriate bend. (Don't tilt your hips to get your heel to the pedal, of course.)
When I was working on where I wanted my bars, I got an inexpensive adjustable stem from Performance. I could change the tilt and try different heights quickly.
Post a photo of your bike from the side, with the camera held level at the height of the top tube.
A couple of questions:
Your stem has a 7 degree rise. Perhaps it's flipped, angled more downward than upward?
How many spacers under the stem?
When I was working on where I wanted my bars, I got an inexpensive adjustable stem from Performance. I could change the tilt and try different heights quickly.
Post a photo of your bike from the side, with the camera held level at the height of the top tube.
A couple of questions:
Your stem has a 7 degree rise. Perhaps it's flipped, angled more downward than upward?
How many spacers under the stem?
eh...yes it was flipped and thanks for remind me. Btw, there are two approximately 1cm spacers and three 5mm spacers under the stem. I have now set saddle height on 73,5 cm and saddle nose is 49cm from middle of handlebar. I will try this on a short ride tomorrow if weather permit so and with a hex key in pocket for eventually adjustments!Btw, my inseam was today 83.5cm and my height still 175cm.
Thanks
hsea17
10-24-17, 08:52 PM
#20
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I flipped around the stem yesterday and test ride done and so far I feel the saddle height is ok, feel a bit in the shoulders but not sure if that mean I'm to much forward or backward.
The bike is as many reviews says, very lively and even if not many steep hills around here it feels like it want to be cycled in hills.
The bike is as many reviews says, very lively and even if not many steep hills around here it feels like it want to be cycled in hills.
10-24-17, 11:34 PM
#21
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Your method of putting your heel on the pedal with a straight leg is fine. That's how I do my initial setup, and then rarely raise or lower the saddle more than a few mm. When I pedal on the ball of my foot, my leg has the appropriate bend. (Don't tilt your hips to get your heel to the pedal, of course.)
When I was working on where I wanted my bars, I got an inexpensive adjustable stem from Performance. I could change the tilt and try different heights quickly.
Post a photo of your bike from the side, with the camera held level at the height of the top tube.
A couple of questions:
Your stem has a 7 degree rise. Perhaps it's flipped, angled more downward than upward?
How many spacers under the stem?
When I was working on where I wanted my bars, I got an inexpensive adjustable stem from Performance. I could change the tilt and try different heights quickly.
Post a photo of your bike from the side, with the camera held level at the height of the top tube.
A couple of questions:
Your stem has a 7 degree rise. Perhaps it's flipped, angled more downward than upward?
How many spacers under the stem?
Photo`s
10-25-17, 08:05 AM
#22
Senior Member
10-29-17, 07:13 PM
#23
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I turned the bars up before a ride yesterday but my wrists are actually okay with the bars more straight. Fine tuning a bit at each ride now and of experience it always takes time before I'm near to ok with my position. However and not related but seems as a mechanical problem which I have to take up with the dealer is some clicking sound from the bottom bracket /crank. I thought it was the chain rubbing against the derailleur but its not!
01-01-18, 08:18 PM
#24
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Happy new Year
I have since last post raised my saddle 1 cm and pushed it 1cm forward. I feel more power in this position and it seems so far that my lower back are less strained in this position.....but I get "something" in my left ankle after riding. Its not the Achilles but on the inside (against the bike but only in one leg and that leg is 4-5 mm longer than the right) Anyone with an idea to what cause this?
Thanks
hsea17
I have since last post raised my saddle 1 cm and pushed it 1cm forward. I feel more power in this position and it seems so far that my lower back are less strained in this position.....but I get "something"
in my left ankle after riding. Its not the Achilles but on the inside (against the bike but only in one leg and that leg is 4-5 mm longer than the right) Anyone with an idea to what cause this?Thanks
hsea17