my left shoulder a lit bit numb after change handlebar according to bike fitting
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
my left shoulder a lit bit numb after change handlebar according to bike fitting
Recently I made bike fitting by shimano bike fitting system.my shoulder width is 400mm,my original bike handlebar width is 420 ,so everytime I cycle over 40km-200km,when I got home or on the last tens of km my shoulder is numb.but after change to 400mm handlebar ,it's a little better,but only left shoulder is a little numb.
so I just want to know it's because the handlebar angle or shift lever angle problem or I should use 380mm handlebar?
so I just want to know it's because the handlebar angle or shift lever angle problem or I should use 380mm handlebar?
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: USA
Posts: 2,190
Bikes: Ti, Mn Cr Ni Mo Nb, Al, C
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 942 Post(s)
Liked 526 Times
in
349 Posts
I don't know what a bike fitting by shimano bike fitting system is....numbness can be caused by a multitude of things related to bike fit (beyond just bar width).
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
#4
just another gosling
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 19,525
Bikes: CoMo Speedster 2003, Trek 5200, CAAD 9, Fred 2004
Mentioned: 115 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3883 Post(s)
Liked 1,935 Times
in
1,381 Posts
Bar width usually doesn't make much difference. Numb, IME, means a pinched nerve or pinched blood vessel. Changing your fit caused this, so change your fit again.
I usually recommend getting the weight off your hands by moving your saddle back until you can briefly lift your hands from the bars while riding, without sliding forward on the saddle. Before moving your saddle, measure your saddle height and reset your saddle height after moving the saddle. After you're satisfied that your saddle position meats these criteria, next set your reach so that, with your hands on the hoods and elbows slightly bent and your back as straight as you can get it, your upper arms make a 90° angle with your torso. That'll probably mean changing stem lengths.
Make those changes, go ride, and see how that works for you.
I usually recommend getting the weight off your hands by moving your saddle back until you can briefly lift your hands from the bars while riding, without sliding forward on the saddle. Before moving your saddle, measure your saddle height and reset your saddle height after moving the saddle. After you're satisfied that your saddle position meats these criteria, next set your reach so that, with your hands on the hoods and elbows slightly bent and your back as straight as you can get it, your upper arms make a 90° angle with your torso. That'll probably mean changing stem lengths.
Make those changes, go ride, and see how that works for you.
__________________
Results matter
Results matter
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Bar width usually doesn't make much difference. Numb, IME, means a pinched nerve or pinched blood vessel. Changing your fit caused this, so change your fit again.
I usually recommend getting the weight off your hands by moving your saddle back until you can briefly lift your hands from the bars while riding, without sliding forward on the saddle. Before moving your saddle, measure your saddle height and reset your saddle height after moving the saddle. After you're satisfied that your saddle position meats these criteria, next set your reach so that, with your hands on the hoods and elbows slightly bent and your back as straight as you can get it, your upper arms make a 90° angle with your torso. That'll probably mean changing stem lengths.
Make those changes, go ride, and see how that works for you.
I usually recommend getting the weight off your hands by moving your saddle back until you can briefly lift your hands from the bars while riding, without sliding forward on the saddle. Before moving your saddle, measure your saddle height and reset your saddle height after moving the saddle. After you're satisfied that your saddle position meats these criteria, next set your reach so that, with your hands on the hoods and elbows slightly bent and your back as straight as you can get it, your upper arms make a 90° angle with your torso. That'll probably mean changing stem lengths.
Make those changes, go ride, and see how that works for you.
#6
just another gosling
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 19,525
Bikes: CoMo Speedster 2003, Trek 5200, CAAD 9, Fred 2004
Mentioned: 115 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3883 Post(s)
Liked 1,935 Times
in
1,381 Posts
Shift lever angle? You mean the location of your brifters? Set them up so they look like this: Handle bar tilt - How much is too much? The levers are approximately vertical and the tops of the hoods form an extension of the bar's ramps, continuing forward in a more or less straight line.
__________________
Results matter
Results matter
#7
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,945
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6172 Post(s)
Liked 4,789 Times
in
3,305 Posts
Was the fit a one time deal? They don't let you come back and ask about things that aren't working for you?
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
johngwheeler
Road Cycling
12
08-25-17 10:14 AM
skycyclepilot
Fitting Your Bike
5
08-04-14 05:10 PM