ldarlee

I have a doctor-confirmed leg length difference of about ¾ inch. The discrepancy is shared between my femur and tibia/fibula. I've tried moving and shimming the cleat for my shorter leg but still have discomfort. An LBS tech had the idea to file or dremel down the shoe for the longer leg so that the cleat is more recessed. This would allow me to split the adjustment between both legs. Has anyone tried this?

Iride01 

What about running different length cranks on each side?

ldarlee

Haven't tried it yet but it could be the simplest solution.

woodcraft

I doubt that recessing the cleat would give more gain than problems and shimming on the other side

have the same effect but be reversable/adjustable.

Check out Steve Hogg.

CliffordK

I don't think you have to make up the full 3/4", but can target somewhere around 50%. So, perhaps 3/8" to 1/2".

SPD pedals may also come in different thicknesses if you wish to browse different brands. Perhaps a trip to the junk bin at the bike co-op. Also, if using square taper, also hunt for some cranks at the co-op.



I was thinking of a longer crank for the short leg, but that would be backwards. So, a short crank for the short leg (so the full extension is less).



I'd probably try about a 5mm shorter crank for the short leg, plus a 5mm spacer (or thicker pedal).

79pmooney

I was diagnosed (by a PT in the fist 5 minutes of my first visit for something else entirely) with my right leg 1/2" shorter. She sent me home with 12mm heel lifts. I then made 1/4" shims for my right cleats, using aluminum plate and bending it to the shape of the shoe. Brought them in to her and she said that is exactly what she would have told me to do. (She's a bike rider and not a slouch! I've watched her pass many men uphill.)

I've heard that messing with crank length for unequal legs generally doesn't work very well. My experience with 1/4" shims (and most of the 1/2" in the heel for walking - different cycling shoes tolerate different levels of lift) works really well. I've now been doing it for seven years. For the first time ever, my eyes lined up with the bike. I now look down exactly through the centerplane of the frame and front wheel. I rarely notice the shim. The sound on the pedal is different but that is now just the sound of life on a bike and I don't hear it.

Ben

ldarlee

I've tried using commercial shims but stacked plastic pieces slide. Aluminum would be light and more secure. Did you cut it to match the shape of the cleat?

79pmooney

I cut them (I've modified 5 pairs so far) a little larger so I had full range of angle and Q-factor adjust and extended them in front so I could have a nice taper to ease getting in the pedals. (Both LOOK and traditional slotted cleats. I then bent them to fit the sole. Ground/filed the taper last. (Did the bending with a bench vise, big crescent wrench, pipe for leverage and a small sledge. Not either pretty or easy.)

And yes, they are secure. No different than without except different sound walking and engaging. My shims are now several cleats old and are just as good as new. In fact, they will outlast the shoes easily, I'll re-tweak the bend if needed for the next pair. (I suspect they will also extend the life of the shoe; saving it from flex and improving cleat bolt support. Wont save me money though, The left shoe's gonna die just as fast as always. ) Now I believe you said you have a 3/4" difference. That's a 3/8" cleat shim. 3/8" is 50% thicker than 1/4" or 5X as stiff. Unless you are Charles Atlas or have industrial tools, it's not bending. (And it might well break.) Now, just thinking as I type, maybe you could use both 1/4" and 1/8". Perhaps epoxying together using the bolt holes, bolts and nuts for clamping pressure? You might be able to find a way to do the heavy bending with the 1/8" not the 1/4". That would make it far easier! Or two 3/16". Just have to find one sheet. And 3/16" will be 25% of the work bending 1/4". That's huge!

Ben

ldarlee

Thank you for your suggestions. The thinner sheet would also be easier to drill. And I like your idea of tapering the front. It's one of the issues I have with my current setup.

Linda