Specialized Sirrus 6.0 in Medium, Mistake?
#1
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Specialized Sirrus 6.0 in Medium, Mistake?
I just put in an order for the Specialized Sirrus 6.0.
Trying to find out if I need to call and change the order to a small, before it gets shipped out and the local bike shop puts it together.
Specialzed chart for the Sirrus is confusing me alot; it recommends that I order a medium, and that I fall in the middle of a medium. But, the bike I just put an order in for, which is a medium, has a standover height of 788 or 31".
Specialized Size chart for Sirrus bikes
5'1" - 5'5" = 150 - 158 = S Small has a standover of 756
5'5" - 5'9" = 165 - 175 = M Medium has a standover of 788
I recently sat on a Trek FX 3 Disc, and it has a standover of 735mm or 29", and it was pretty much within an inch of racking me. It seems to me, even if I went down to the 756, I'd still be racking myself....What is going on here? Do I need an XS at 714 standover? I'd like to be able to flatfoot this thing.
My Stats:
Height: 5'8"
Standover: 30"
Trying to find out if I need to call and change the order to a small, before it gets shipped out and the local bike shop puts it together.
Specialzed chart for the Sirrus is confusing me alot; it recommends that I order a medium, and that I fall in the middle of a medium. But, the bike I just put an order in for, which is a medium, has a standover height of 788 or 31".
Specialized Size chart for Sirrus bikes
5'1" - 5'5" = 150 - 158 = S Small has a standover of 756
5'5" - 5'9" = 165 - 175 = M Medium has a standover of 788
I recently sat on a Trek FX 3 Disc, and it has a standover of 735mm or 29", and it was pretty much within an inch of racking me. It seems to me, even if I went down to the 756, I'd still be racking myself....What is going on here? Do I need an XS at 714 standover? I'd like to be able to flatfoot this thing.
My Stats:
Height: 5'8"
Standover: 30"
Last edited by Aristokrata; 05-10-20 at 08:47 PM.
#2
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It seems a bit of research revealed that riding road bikes is a bit of a no-no for 5'8" guys, especially on Specialized frames. Sounds about right, that's a rather common reoccurring theme in my life. But, I think if I just stick to bikes with a maximum of 740mm standover, I might be able to ride. I can always ride the XS in Specialized; it's better than nothing. Or, switch to Trek, just not crazy about anything the have at the moment though, the reach on the hybrid was alittle far.
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Can you not go down to your Specialized dealer and sit on one? With Sirrus 6.0 being the high end of that line, I'd want to know before purchase. Calling the contact number on the site might get you some better info and what your options are with Specialized if the bike arrives and doesn't fit you well enough.
#4
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I've been calling since early Friday; so, 4 days now. I'll try again right now. I'm about 2.5 hours out from the closest dealer; and they we're sold out of everything in Specialized, or I would've drove down there.
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Try calling the local shop too. Even though you might be buying online, most are still going to want your business for other things. Like getting the bike serviced in the future.
If that phone numbers to specialized has an option for them to call you back, then use it.
If that phone numbers to specialized has an option for them to call you back, then use it.
#6
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Yea, all their offices are closed, my onine form inquiries has been ignored for the time being, with COVID and all, that's understandable. Being the complete moron that I am, I just gave Specialed $2500+ that will probably be tied up for a few weeks, maybe months.
Pretty difficult to find any bike with a 740mm standover before jumping down to a childs size XS with a unhealthy amount of knee/toe overlap. Starting to see why the 30" inseam guys opt out of riding now, hadn't realized I was "technically" classified as a midget. Anyone have any recommendations on bikes that don't hold me up by my balls?
Pretty difficult to find any bike with a 740mm standover before jumping down to a childs size XS with a unhealthy amount of knee/toe overlap. Starting to see why the 30" inseam guys opt out of riding now, hadn't realized I was "technically" classified as a midget. Anyone have any recommendations on bikes that don't hold me up by my balls?
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There are plenty of adults with 30" legs that ride bikes. You aren't as different as you think. Plenty of posts here have claimed a 30" leg.
Small, medium, large, extra large can't be equated to anything in the non-cycling world. Just like the bikes that are still sized by seatpost length to come up with a size in centimetres, you can't assume that same size in another bike means the same fit for you.
Nothing beats trying out a bike in person with another bike savvy person to give you their perceptions whether that is the salesman or just a friend. Failing that and any lack of experience on your own, then you just have to trust what the manufacturer posts for sizing the bike to you which usually will get you a frame size well withing the ballpark that you can adjust to you.
I did notice that when I looked at your model, it seemed like Specialized's site was not showing the sizing for that particular bike model. Perhaps for their 2021 model year coming up, they are changing to S, M, ML, L, XL like a few of the other mfr's have done. When I bought my 2020 bike from them, it was sized by numbers. 54, 56, 58, etc.
But don't be vain about going to small. The sizes are adult sizes not children and adults. Also, that top tube slopes, so standover might not be the tube height. They may have already built in a clearance for you. It might be that that bike isn't the bike for you. Some models might have more sizes available.
Small, medium, large, extra large can't be equated to anything in the non-cycling world. Just like the bikes that are still sized by seatpost length to come up with a size in centimetres, you can't assume that same size in another bike means the same fit for you.
Nothing beats trying out a bike in person with another bike savvy person to give you their perceptions whether that is the salesman or just a friend. Failing that and any lack of experience on your own, then you just have to trust what the manufacturer posts for sizing the bike to you which usually will get you a frame size well withing the ballpark that you can adjust to you.
I did notice that when I looked at your model, it seemed like Specialized's site was not showing the sizing for that particular bike model. Perhaps for their 2021 model year coming up, they are changing to S, M, ML, L, XL like a few of the other mfr's have done. When I bought my 2020 bike from them, it was sized by numbers. 54, 56, 58, etc.
But don't be vain about going to small. The sizes are adult sizes not children and adults. Also, that top tube slopes, so standover might not be the tube height. They may have already built in a clearance for you. It might be that that bike isn't the bike for you. Some models might have more sizes available.
Last edited by Iride01; 05-11-20 at 12:37 PM.
#8
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Okay, that definitely helps; starting to see how much bike knowledge I don't have. Here's maybe a better question you might be able to help me out with. How can I tell when a bike doesn't work. Being unexperienced I may not neccasarily know how it feels to have a good fit.
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Don't ride with your crotch resting on the top tube?
The only time you need to worry about standover height is if you're going to have both feet go down hard to the ground. Road cyclists tend to use a pedal retention system, so that will be very unlikely to happen. For controlled stops and starts, you only need one foot down.
The only time you need to worry about standover height is if you're going to have both feet go down hard to the ground. Road cyclists tend to use a pedal retention system, so that will be very unlikely to happen. For controlled stops and starts, you only need one foot down.
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I just put in an order for the Specialized Sirrus 6.0.
Trying to find out if I need to call and change the order to a small, before it gets shipped out and the local bike shop puts it together.
Specialzed chart for the Sirrus is confusing me alot; it recommends that I order a medium, and that I fall in the middle of a medium. But, the bike I just put an order in for, which is a medium, has a standover height of 788 or 31".
Specialized Size chart for Sirrus bikes
5'1" - 5'5" = 150 - 158 = S Small has a standover of 756
5'5" - 5'9" = 165 - 175 = M Medium has a standover of 788
I recently sat on a Trek FX 3 Disc, and it has a standover of 735mm or 29", and it was pretty much within an inch of racking me. It seems to me, even if I went down to the 756, I'd still be racking myself....What is going on here? Do I need an XS at 714 standover? I'd like to be able to flatfoot this thing.
My Stats:
Height: 5'8"
Standover: 30"
Trying to find out if I need to call and change the order to a small, before it gets shipped out and the local bike shop puts it together.
Specialzed chart for the Sirrus is confusing me alot; it recommends that I order a medium, and that I fall in the middle of a medium. But, the bike I just put an order in for, which is a medium, has a standover height of 788 or 31".
Specialized Size chart for Sirrus bikes
5'1" - 5'5" = 150 - 158 = S Small has a standover of 756
5'5" - 5'9" = 165 - 175 = M Medium has a standover of 788
I recently sat on a Trek FX 3 Disc, and it has a standover of 735mm or 29", and it was pretty much within an inch of racking me. It seems to me, even if I went down to the 756, I'd still be racking myself....What is going on here? Do I need an XS at 714 standover? I'd like to be able to flatfoot this thing.
My Stats:
Height: 5'8"
Standover: 30"
#11
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Yo, appreciate that, makes me feel a bit better. I have questions...
Curious as to what inseam you have at 5'7"?
Did you get a chance to sit on a Small frame?
One more questoin, what made you get the 6.0, being another $1k over the 4.0 and all?
Pictures of that bike are quite rare right now; come back and give us a see!
If the 6.0 doesn't work, I am strongly considering the Giant FastRoad Advanced 1 in M at 719mm standover
Curious as to what inseam you have at 5'7"?
Did you get a chance to sit on a Small frame?
One more questoin, what made you get the 6.0, being another $1k over the 4.0 and all?
Pictures of that bike are quite rare right now; come back and give us a see!
If the 6.0 doesn't work, I am strongly considering the Giant FastRoad Advanced 1 in M at 719mm standover
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Yo, appreciate that, makes me feel a bit better. I have questions...
Curious as to what inseam you have at 5'7"?
Did you get a chance to sit on a Small frame?
One more questoin, what made you get the 6.0, being another $1k over the 4.0 and all?
Pictures of that bike are quite rare right now; come back and give us a see!
If the 6.0 doesn't work, I am strongly considering the Giant FastRoad Advanced 1 in M at 719mm standover
Curious as to what inseam you have at 5'7"?
Did you get a chance to sit on a Small frame?
One more questoin, what made you get the 6.0, being another $1k over the 4.0 and all?
Pictures of that bike are quite rare right now; come back and give us a see!
If the 6.0 doesn't work, I am strongly considering the Giant FastRoad Advanced 1 in M at 719mm standover
I was doing research on bikes for a couple months which lead me to the 6.0. I knew I wanted a Carbon frame, there are many benefits. I spent 20 years riding a mountain bike, even around the neighborhood and on paved paths, it’s all I know. So that’s why I wanted a flat bar bike again. I tried out a diverge and Roubaix but ended up feeling indifferent about drop bars, they didn’t do anything magical for me to put them over the edge.
so from there I knew I wanted a Carbon flat bar bike. Upon my research I discovered I love the future shock technology so I naturally was drawn towards the sirrus x 5.0. I almost pulled the trigger but realized there was only 1 gear upfront. Coming from a 3x8 mountain bike this seemed foreign to me. While this would have been fine, I like having the option of more gears up front to work with in different scenarios and there’s some steep hills where I live, so I wanted the extra gears down low and up top. Scratch the x 5.0
Enter the 4.0. I got really excited when I saw this bike because of the all Carbon and price. What’s the catch? It doesn’t have future shock. Smart marketing by specialized to always leave 1 thing out of every model to squeeze you to the top. So from here I had a dilemma and I was tossing up if I should get the 4 without future shock or the x 5 without the extra gears. I then started looking more into the 6.0 as it has everything. The bike shop said that shimano 105 components are of the best and resale wise, hold the greatest value. So for the extra money, I was getting better components, better tires, a better color (in my opinion anyways) and getting all my requirements. For me it was worth the extra money, and my LBS was able to give me 10% off which sealed the deal further. If I got the 4 I know I’ll always wish I kicked in the extra money for the components and FS, and with the 5 I would have missed the extra gears.
For me though, the extra money wasn’t necessarily a large factor so it made the decision a little easier, I’m sure the 4.0 or even the lower models will still be an amazing bike. But, it sounds like you already made your choice and put the money down, I say enjoy your bike and be grateful you own the best hybrid bike available today!!
#13
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Appreciate the back story, was definitely a good read! I also wasn't going to go without the shock.
If you're any age above 35, you'll be glad you went with the flat bar. The upright position is much easier on the lower back. I'm 33, I figured it's a little late in life to start riding so, went ahead and bought a bike I could grow through my mid-to-late 30s with. My elbows and lower back took it's toll with power lifting early on in life.
Also, I hear the brake wires near the front wear the paint off the frame rather quickly, may want to out something down like wax, or clear tape.
If you're any age above 35, you'll be glad you went with the flat bar. The upright position is much easier on the lower back. I'm 33, I figured it's a little late in life to start riding so, went ahead and bought a bike I could grow through my mid-to-late 30s with. My elbows and lower back took it's toll with power lifting early on in life.
Also, I hear the brake wires near the front wear the paint off the frame rather quickly, may want to out something down like wax, or clear tape.
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Appreciate the back story, was definitely a good read! I also wasn't going to go without the shock.
If you're any age above 35, you'll be glad you went with the flat bar. The upright position is much easier on the lower back. I'm 33, I figured it's a little late in life to start riding so, went ahead and bought a bike I could grow through my mid-to-late 30s with. My elbows and lower back took it's toll with power lifting early on in life.
Also, I hear the brake wires near the front wear the paint off the frame rather quickly, may want to out something down like wax, or clear tape.
If you're any age above 35, you'll be glad you went with the flat bar. The upright position is much easier on the lower back. I'm 33, I figured it's a little late in life to start riding so, went ahead and bought a bike I could grow through my mid-to-late 30s with. My elbows and lower back took it's toll with power lifting early on in life.
Also, I hear the brake wires near the front wear the paint off the frame rather quickly, may want to out something down like wax, or clear tape.
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Appreciate the back story, was definitely a good read! I also wasn't going to go without the shock.
If you're any age above 35, you'll be glad you went with the flat bar. The upright position is much easier on the lower back. I'm 33, I figured it's a little late in life to start riding so, went ahead and bought a bike I could grow through my mid-to-late 30s with. My elbows and lower back took it's toll with power lifting early on in life.
Also, I hear the brake wires near the front wear the paint off the frame rather quickly, may want to out something down like wax, or clear tape.
If you're any age above 35, you'll be glad you went with the flat bar. The upright position is much easier on the lower back. I'm 33, I figured it's a little late in life to start riding so, went ahead and bought a bike I could grow through my mid-to-late 30s with. My elbows and lower back took it's toll with power lifting early on in life.
Also, I hear the brake wires near the front wear the paint off the frame rather quickly, may want to out something down like wax, or clear tape.
#16
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Road bike position isn't just about aero. It's also about balancing you body over the power you put into the crankshaft which lifts you up somewhat to reduce the weight on your butt. By distributing some of your weight to the handle bars you also reduce the load on your butt. This lets you ride longer with more comfort. Since you do get some aero benefit, it allows you to arrive at the end of a four, five, six hour or more ride with more energy.
Please don't think that those of us over 60 and riding drop bars are trying to race. We are doing it because we've found it's the better way for us to ride for several hours at a time.
Please don't think that those of us over 60 and riding drop bars are trying to race. We are doing it because we've found it's the better way for us to ride for several hours at a time.
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Road bike position isn't just about aero. It's also about balancing you body over the power you put into the crankshaft which lifts you up somewhat to reduce the weight on your butt. By distributing some of your weight to the handle bars you also reduce the load on your butt. This lets you ride longer with more comfort. Since you do get some aero benefit, it allows you to arrive at the end of a four, five, six hour or more ride with more energy.
Please don't think that those of us over 60 and riding drop bars are trying to race. We are doing it because we've found it's the better way for us to ride for several hours at a time.
Please don't think that those of us over 60 and riding drop bars are trying to race. We are doing it because we've found it's the better way for us to ride for several hours at a time.
Just by way of an on-topic contribution, I might add that there is no necessary connection between 'flat bars' and a sit-up-and-beg position. As it happens, I ride the frameset under discussion here -- mine is last year's, but it is the same frameset. Both this one and my older one -- 2010 Sirrus Comp -- are set up (lbs full fit) so that my position when using the bar ends is within millimetres of the position I would use on, say, the equivalent Roubaix with drop bars when using the hoods. Torso angle, set-back, saddle height, saddle to bar drop, etc. ... all the same, and for the same reasons you describe above.
The Sirrus geometry (size: M) works very well for me in part due to its shortish (for a proper flat-bar bike) reach and highish stack: I am 5'8", but with quite long legs (33+" true cycling inseam) and arms, short torso for my height.
I use flat bars/bar-ends simply as a matter of personal preference, for reasons specific to me: I can't use the 'drops' on a drop bar if they are set where they would actually be useful, and I find mtb-style shifting/braking easier to manage.
Last edited by badger1; 05-13-20 at 09:57 AM.
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Appreciate the back story, was definitely a good read! I also wasn't going to go without the shock.
If you're any age above 35, you'll be glad you went with the flat bar. The upright position is much easier on the lower back. I'm 33, I figured it's a little late in life to start riding so, went ahead and bought a bike I could grow through my mid-to-late 30s with. My elbows and lower back took it's toll with power lifting early on in life.
Also, I hear the brake wires near the front wear the paint off the frame rather quickly, may want to out something down like wax, or clear tape.
If you're any age above 35, you'll be glad you went with the flat bar. The upright position is much easier on the lower back. I'm 33, I figured it's a little late in life to start riding so, went ahead and bought a bike I could grow through my mid-to-late 30s with. My elbows and lower back took it's toll with power lifting early on in life.
Also, I hear the brake wires near the front wear the paint off the frame rather quickly, may want to out something down like wax, or clear tape.

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#20
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That's quite a rare build, in a good way. I'd assume it's been tough finding a good bike though, on account of having an inseam more commonly associated with 6' + folks, and L frames with longer reach.
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I can stand over comfortably with a tiny bit of space. If you notice, the frame goes down by the seat more on the medium and even more on the small. It’s a great bike, I’ve been riding it every day and it’s super comfortable!
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Good info there; do you have any experience with the Giant frame geometry? Specifically, the fitness frames, like the Fastroad Advanced.
That's quite a rare build, in a good way. I'd assume it's been tough finding a good bike though, on account of having an inseam more commonly associated with 6' + folks, and L frames with longer reach.
That's quite a rare build, in a good way. I'd assume it's been tough finding a good bike though, on account of having an inseam more commonly associated with 6' + folks, and L frames with longer reach.
I've no real experience with Giant's 'fitness' geometry I'm afraid, but I did do a quick static fit on a current Fastroad last year. The problem (for me) was stack height, which on those bikes is quite low in a Medium. The Large was slightly better, though not ideal. To get more stack, one has to go to riser bars or up-angled stems, both of which I dislike. Reach was within range -- anything from 390ish to 410 or so will work for me with a stem length adjustment.

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#23
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Anyone recommend a good set of petals for a shorter rides of less than 5 miles. Preferably non-connect petals. Size 8 foot here. I do alot of urban riding, and some shorter fitness type cardio.
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