Saddle adjust question?
 

what is the more important when changing saddles of different lengths the position of the back of the saddle or the nose of the saddle ie if you are replacing a saddle that seems to be close to the correct set back with one that is longer by 8mm should the new saddle's nose or back of the saddle be used for positioning it? I am using the stem bolt (quill stem) as a measuring point. seems like it would be the back of the saddle but not sure. thanks

The rear is often more reliable, but there is still considerable variation.

The best way is to slip a hand under your thigh to find where you sit bones touch the saddle, measure to that, then find where on the new saddle and set to that point.

Check your saddle height, too. Different saddles are different heights over their rails.

the height thing I have figured out it is just the fore aft thing that has me a little confused. thanks

I'd think the important part of measuring is to know that this is just to get in in the ball park and that you will likely need to adjust it multiple times afterward.

Me? I'd measure from where I normally have my sit bones on the saddle and try to imagine where that might be on the new saddle.

If this is to transpose measurements a fitter may have given you, then I'd ask the fitter where his or her measurement is to be taken from.

I get my saddles (and handlebars and brake levers) close, then go for rides with the wrenches and a few pieces of tape. Stop as needed and tweak things. (But just or two things per ride.)

Subtle differences in saddle shape can make big differences in a seat feels. I don't assume anything on one seat correlates to a different seat. (I'd expect to need to tweak an "exact" replacement.)

Why guess on the new saddle when you can just make the same sit bone observation you did on the previous one? Unless you decide while riding that you had the wrong spot on the new saddle, you'll have found your correct set back before you have left the driveway.

If every saddle you buy is the same exact saddle that might work to a certain extent. But different profiles of saddle might have you sitting in a different place on them. As will minor differences in the bike geometry.

However most any method that others have suggested are a reasonable way to position a new saddle on a bike to get a position you can ride till you decide you want to find out if there is a better position.

You seem to have the idea there is one and only one position that can be correct and any other is uncomfortable. For me, I can tolerate a different range of setback. For shorter rides I can push the saddle forward and put up with more strain on my hands to get a better power position over the BB. Or for longer rides I can move the saddle back a tad to be more comfortable on longer rides without the hand strain. And give up a little of that power advantage.

Though I don't move my saddle that often. I have a sweet spot and it stays there for most of the time.

I wasn't talking about the same saddle, but finding where you are likely to sit on it and measuring to that point. It won't be perfect, just much closer to any other random point.

So I guess we agree on where to measure from/to. I've stated that is what I do.

I guess where we don't agree is that you think everyone else is totally wrong for doing it other ways. I feel they'll be close enough to not make much difference in the grand scheme of things.

But do yourself a favour, refrain from passing gas

Quote me where I say anything like that.

Where you say anything like what? There are two different thoughts in my reply to you.

Maybe that's why you have so many issues with people misunderstanding you. It's because you don't make a complete statement that specifies the subject.

That everyone is wrong but me.


It seems like an especially weird observation since you're the one who posted a modification of my previously posted technique. So then I ask you why you proposed something more ambiguous - and you get upset. Should I be upset that your first post seems critical of mine? Or are we just discussing stuff?

I use the widest point at the butt as the baseline. And I haven't switched saddles in eight years so it isn't much of a problem.

Well you are the one that took exception to what I said. I just posted a reply to the OP as to what I do. All the response to you was in reply to things you quoted me on. I didn't say anything much about your technique other than I don't see how it would be any better for determining where to put a new and different profiled saddle since one really doesn't know at that time where the sit bones will really be. But I only made that comment in direct response to your question and quoting of my first reply to the OP.

And I didn't know that your technique was copyrighted or patented. But even if it was, modifications are allowed and might actually be the basis for a new copyright or patent.

Again, I do prefer to measure from where my sit bones are for a saddle. And I will imagine where I'll sit on the new saddle when setting it. But I don't see how that is any more accurate than any of the other methods suggested here. They all seem like they'll get one close enough.

I'm sorry asking you a question is such a negative experienxe for you. Bur you should understand that I could have seen your first post as "taking exception" to my very similar one.

It's not a negative experience for me. It's a puzzling experience in this particular case. You didn't really ask a question in your first quote of me. You made a point and framed it as a question.I disagreed with your point, because it's still a guess with the new saddle.

hopefully this works. saddle critics.. too high, too low or about right and set back seem in the ball park? cleats are pushed back as far as they will go. again look past the belly :)

jadmt You look fine. Is there an issue you are having that you think saddle position might cure? Me, I'd just move it around in small increments till it felt better or I decide it's not the saddle position or tilt.

Might could go higher on the saddle. But others might think you look too high. Always hard for me to tell from a video or pic only with no other information from the person. Any knee pain or annoyances front or back. Or in the quads?

I set the distance of my saddle from the top of the pedal when furthest away from where I sit on the saddle. And that usually winds up being 109% of my inseam when I am riding hard during the spring, summer and into fall. Winter months I might lower it a ½ inch to maybe 1 inch when I'm not riding as frequently or as hard.

If we go back to just the fore and aft positioning. Then that's a compromise you have to decide on ultimately. You'll usually produce more power into the pedals as you move your butt further forward. But that's going to put more weight on your wrists, arms and shoulders. So you want to find out what you can tolerate comfortably for the amount of time you ride.

Other things might help you be more comfortable with more weight on your bars. But it takes time to figure out.

And if where you want your saddle puts the clamp very near the front or rear position on the rails, then I'd consider getting a seat post wit a different setback to get that clamp more in the middle of the rails. Just to keeps stresses from breaking the rails and creating a bad situation at a bad time during your best ride ever.

Thanks, No issues with knees or comfort just wanting to make sure I am not overlooking any glaring issues. Not racing but I like to push myself and more interested in spending 4 or 5 hours in the saddle riding 16-20mph. thanks .

The seat is pretty far back on the rails ie the clamp is at the front of the rails about as far as it will go. I don't want to give up either my seat B17 which is really comfortable or my Nitto n65 seat post which I have been coveting for years before I got one. here is another video showing different angles. no real issues just want to know if I can do better as at approaching 65 yoa ever little bit helps. thanks for any and all tips.

If you don't have any issues with it, then it's good enough. Just note that if you break a rail or you feel your saddle bottom out often on the seat post when you hit bumps, then you might want to address that issue by getting a seat post with a larger amount of setback. Mine on a previous bike was bottoming out when I had the saddle all the way forward or clamp all the way to the rear. Never broken a rail myself, I've just heard it can happen. And that just seems a likely reason to me.

I get to meet 65 in March of this year. I'm still looking for those Golden Years that was talked of long ago. I guess that's just a myth! <grin>

I think the rails are pretty tough I guess that is one of the many reasons the seat weighs over a pound :). fortunately I still feel and for the most part act like I am still 35..only when I look in the mirror do I get shocked back to reality lol...

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...185a2263d8.jpg

Actually, as long as you are comfortable, you look perfect. Flat back, arms slightly bent, good knee flexion/extension, not a lot of hip rocking, looks good! You could add a video from the front so we can verify knee tracking.

I would try elevating by a millimeter at a time, until pain due to hips rocking begins to be felt. Then back off a millimeter to stop it. This will minimize your maximum knee flexure. Usually a bit more comfortable for me.

I also find I need to reconsider and address new problems as my riding distance ramps up.