90's vs modern frame geometry
So I have a mid 90's bike, a 56cm frame. I like the bike for the most part, but it might be a bit more aggressive than I really want at this point. I have my saddle at 78.5cm and the drop between the saddle and bars is 5in (maxed out with the spacers using a threadless quill converter). Apparently, the stack is 53cm, the head tube about 13.5cm. Leaving aside stem options, if I were to look for a modern frame, would the bigger stack (like I see the cannondale caad8 has 57.3cm stack for the 56cm frame) and/or larger head tube be the areas where I would have the slightly less aggressive position? I am going to race in October and next season, but I like to do a lot of long rides as well. Anyway, just wanting to understand geometry a bit better so I know what I'm talking about if/when considering other options.
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90's aint that long ago , the component companies are working to have something new that is the main difference.
'agressive' steep seat tubes & low handlebars .. old folks make different choices seat tube angles , top tube lengths and steering . trail. are factors to consider.. I have a couple 90's bikes .. and some even older.. |
I have traditional steel bikes, with horizontal top-tubes and modern bikes with compact frames. I duplicate the key fit dimensions on all my bikes, so the fit is the same. I don't use spacers under the stem on the modern bikes, but my saddle to handlebar drop is not extreme.
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"Geometry" hasn't changed all that much, as I understand it. Head and seat-tube angles aren't much different. If what you want is less saddle-bar drop, that isn't so much a question of geometry as of frame size. A bigger frame will tend to put you in a slightly more upright position because your saddle height has to remain the same (determined by leg length) but the head tube will be taller. So if I were you the first thing I'd be looking at is whether your current bike is, in fact, smaller than you'd like. Ride a 58cm frame and see how that feels.
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Originally Posted by chasm54
(Post 17081716)
"Geometry" hasn't changed all that much, as I understand it. Head and seat-tube angles aren't much different. If what you want is less saddle-bar drop, that isn't so much a question of geometry as of frame size. A bigger frame will tend to put you in a slightly more upright position because your saddle height has to remain the same (determined by leg length) but the head tube will be taller. So if I were you the first thing I'd be looking at is whether your current bike is, in fact, smaller than you'd like. Ride a 58cm frame and see how that feels.
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A traditional frame is sold in more increments to get correct fit. A compact or sloping top tube requires fewer sizes to do the same thing.
About all the old geometry has going for it is tradition and more sizing. |
Originally Posted by hubcyclist
(Post 17081834)
Thanks, really helpful. At first I was thinking maybe I might need a 54 (mainly basing it on the competitive cyclist calculator), but was also thinking the same thing about 58.
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