Bike sizing using Lemons Method
 

I used the Lemons method to adjust my seat, but it feels a little too high. I believe it is at double the height it was before. I was wondering if crank arm length and saddle thickness need to be taken into account when using the Lemons method?

Inseam cm x .883

I'm currently at 85cm for inseam riding a 54 cm Steel bike. I am 5' 8".

er... not sure what the issue is and not sure how your saddle height doubled... must have been pretty low. If you want to use the Lemond method, you will want to set the top level of the saddle 75cm (85cm x .883) above your crank centre (the bottom bracket centre) measuring along the seatpost. Saddle thickness is not taken into account as you measure to the top surface of the saddle and the saddle should be close to level.

If you want a way to refine saddle height, there is one approach given here: SEAT HEIGHT ? HOW HARD CAN IT BE? » Bike Fit » Steve Hogg's Bike Fitting Website

Well that makes sense that measuring to the top is what is needed. What in regards to crank arm length?

Repost

I haven't heard of a standard recommendation as far as crank length vs. saddle height. If you are using the commonly-supplied crank lengths (170, 172.5, 175mm), then presumably there is not much to worry about (because those cranks are fairly close in length relative to overall leg length). Also, keep in mind that it may be a complicated issue: if you have a longer crank length, your knee will go both lower when the pedal is down and higher when the pedal is up, so what does that mean for saddle height? Doesn't seem clear. Perhaps someone else on BF or elsewhere knows.

LeMond's method gets you close, then you have to use your own feelings to fine tune. Just like any fit formula.

The difference between 170 and 175 mm cranks is all of 5 mm which is 1/5 of an inch. What shoes you wear and whether you wear padded shorts is more important than that, as far as saddle height goes.

If you've been riding with the saddle very low, then raising it a lot will feel strange and you might find some muscles are too tight or some body parts not flexible enough. The usual recommendation is to adjust in small increments. I think the alternative is to make the whole change all at once, but then take only short rides at first.

Inseam cm x .883 gets pedal to saddle top how much of that is post extension and how much is eat tube of frame is optional

think about the top tube and stem choice. Cruising or down on all 4s only sitting up at the finish line?

pedal toes down across the bottom, or flat footed?

The test I use requires no measurements at all. I sit on the bike in a hallway, leaning slightly against that wall. I do htis barefoot. I then place my heel on the pedal spindle. There is a very exact seat height where I can do this with my leg either completely straight or a slight bent at the knee without rocking my hips. Now, I find I use more knee bend than most. If I wanted less knee bend, I would do the same test wearing say a pair of near heel-less cycling shoes. Or once you have a bike that feels perfect, do this test and find the shoes/slippers with the right heel to pass this test. Now you can duplicate that height exactly on any bike (except you might have to make small adjustments for different pedals and cleats). The seat shape and softness will always be accounted for.

Ben

Seems like a small frame for your height & inseam. Crank length has to be taken into account, since at 6 o'clock there's 2.5 mm difference between each of the various lengths. Typically for that size bike, you'd have 172.5. As far as saddle thickness, I'd guess the assumption is that you have something fairly typical.

Either way, some consider the Lemond (actually Guimard, probably) measurement to be highish. If that means raising your current height dramatically, I'd tend to leave it a bit low and give yourself some time to adapt. As you incrementally get closer to 85cm, you'll feel if that measurement is actually too high.