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Dahon iOS D9 crankset upgrade

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Dahon iOS D9 crankset upgrade

Old 03-30-16, 07:55 PM
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Dahon iOS D9 crankset upgrade

I have a 2015 Dahon iOS D9, which I'm looking to upgrade the crankset.

I was searching for the BCD for the crankset/chain ring.

Have attempted to contact Dahon on the support email and FB but no response so far.

Was hoping that some kind soul in this forum would have some information to share.

The marking on the crank arm reads "PROWHEEL FORGED 175".

There's no marking on the chain ring entirely, seems like it's an OEM piece.
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Old 03-30-16, 08:50 PM
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Just measure it. Not that hard. Not that many possibilities on the market.
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Old 03-31-16, 12:05 AM
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Measure the distance between 2 adjacent crank bolts. If the distance is around 76.4mm it's a BCD 130. If the distance is around 64.7mm then it is a BCD 110. Lot's of tutorials on google.
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Old 03-31-16, 12:08 AM
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Sorry, I meant 2 adjacent chainring bolts, not crank bolts.
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Old 03-31-16, 03:54 AM
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Measure to be sure, but I'm 99% certain your bike uses the road BCD spacing to accommodate a 52-tooth chainring. That's assuming you're just replacing the ring. You mentioned upgrading the cranks..are you looking to replace a worn chainring, or pop for a nicer/lighter crank?
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Old 03-31-16, 05:46 AM
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Hi guys, thanks for the advise. Measured and seems like it's a 130 BCD.

Another newbie question.

I'm looking to upgrade from from current single chain to a double chainring crankset. Do we have to be concerned with the matching of the number of teeth or "speed"?

Noticed that hat the crank sets and front derailers were advertised with 11 speed, 10 speed or even 3x11 speed.
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Old 03-31-16, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Joe Remi
Measure to be sure, but I'm 99% certain your bike uses the road BCD spacing to accommodate a 52-tooth chainring. That's assuming you're just replacing the ring. You mentioned upgrading the cranks..are you looking to replace a worn chainring, or pop for a nicer/lighter crank?
Currently, stock is 42T 130 BCD single 9 speed. I'm hoping to upgrade to a 52 or 53T double chain ring to get improved speed efficiencies. Same hoping to shed some weight with lighter cranks.
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Old 03-31-16, 06:49 AM
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I do not know the bike, but have you looked into fitting a front der on this bike- or are you planning "greasy fingers shifting"?
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Old 03-31-16, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by badmother
I do not know the bike, but have you looked into fitting a front der on this bike- or are you planning "greasy fingers shifting"?
Yes, looking at front derailers too.
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Old 03-31-16, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by derekjj
Yes, looking at front derailers too.
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Old 03-31-16, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by derekjj
Currently, stock is 42T 130 BCD single 9 speed. I'm hoping to upgrade to a 52 or 53T double chain ring to get improved speed efficiencies. Same hoping to shed some weight with lighter cranks.
Ok, let me break it down for you.

Step 1: Figure out the gear-inches that you want/need

If the gearing range is not too wide, you may be able to get away with a single chainring. Double chainring adds complexity and weight in two ways. One is the increased weight and complexity of a heavier crankset, front dereilleur and its shifter. Two, you will need a new rear derailleur to accomodate the increased capacity of the crankset.

Step 1, again. Figure out what the objective is, that is, what gear-inches range you want and need. First things first.
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Old 03-31-16, 07:38 AM
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Does your bike frame have a braze on to attach a front derailleur? If not, you need a adapter clamp.
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Old 03-31-16, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Abu Mahendra
Ok, let me break it down for you.

Step 1: Figure out the gear-inches that you want/need

If the gearing range is not too wide, you may be able to get away with a single chainring. Double chainring adds complexity and weight in two ways. One is the increased weight and complexity of a heavier crankset, front dereilleur and its shifter. Two, you will need a new rear derailleur to accomodate the increased capacity of the crankset.

Step 1, again. Figure out what the objective is, that is, what gear-inches range you want and need. First things first.
I'm hoping to keep the rear as stock, whilst as I increase front chainring size for better speed and add another to still give low end climb.

I'm confused on the "speed" indicated in the product description.

does it mean that a 10 speed crankset or derailer will not match with the current 9 speed rear cassette and read derailers?
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Old 03-31-16, 07:47 AM
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You will need a front derailleur clamp, shifter cable, shifter, front derailleur, and longer chainring bolts, maybe a longer axle in your bottom bracket , than a new chainring ....
I m pretty sure its 130 but measure twice :-)
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Old 03-31-16, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by derekjj
I'm hoping to keep the rear as stock, whilst as I increase front chainring size for better speed and add another to still give low end climb.

I'm confused on the "speed" indicated in the product description.

does it mean that a 10 speed crankset or derailer will not match with the current 9 speed rear cassette and read derailers?
You are putting the cart in front of the horse. First of all, determine the gear-inches that you want/need. Once again, determine the gear-inches that you want/need.

In the meantime and in parallel, determine the capacity of your rear derailleur and what the max and min teeth cogs are on the cogset.
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Old 03-31-16, 09:43 AM
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What about doing it the easy , cheap and practical way (IMHO at least)?

Read Saint Sheldons article on gearing, plus some more on the subject depending on how much you know already: Gear Theory for Bicyclists

Unless the reading changes your mind get that 52 chainring and a longer chain and hit the roads you want to ride. Ask your legs if this is ok. If you need more on the hills, can you go down to 50 (give a little on speed) or do you need another chainring?

Do you need it often? Can you ad a 42 on the innside and fingershift when in hilly area?

If you want to do loaded touring or ride in hilly area on a holyday it is possible to fit a smaller chainring for the trip and go back to the bigger one later.

Personally I would avoid one extra chainring pluss shifters and stuff, keeping it adjusted and the extra weight and complexity.. I would only do it if I REALLY needed it. I removed the stuff from my folder and is happy with one chainring and less work. I`d rather walk once in a while..
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Old 03-31-16, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by derekjj
I'm hoping to keep the rear as stock, whilst as I increase front chainring size for better speed and add another to still give low end climb.

I'm confused on the "speed" indicated in the product description.

does it mean that a 10 speed crankset or derailer will not match with the current 9 speed rear cassette and read derailers?
It it fine to use 10 speed chainrings with a 9 speed cassette.
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Old 03-31-16, 01:02 PM
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10 speed front chainrings will work with the same chain than a 9 speed .... Keep in mind just in case they are narrower than a usual 9 speed than they will wear faster too ... the big difference is the cassette and the width of the chain for 10 speed
Thnks Thor
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Old 04-01-16, 06:46 PM
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Thanks guys for all the contribution.

My current rear derailer a are Shimano Alivio, which is meant MTB. But weirdly, the crankset is 42T. BCD is 130, which seems to point to Road. I was told I can't mix road and MTB. It that's true, then the Dahon configuration seems weird. Unless the intention is to allow for upgrade to road group set.
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Old 04-01-16, 07:31 PM
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My recommendation is to do it right, bite the bullet and install a new complete Shimano Tiagra 4700 drivetrain consisting of the following:
52/36T crankset
11-34T cogset
GS rear derailleur
flat bar shifters
front derailleur
chain

This will set you back about $250. Do it right.


Originally Posted by derekjj
Thanks guys for all the contribution.

My current rear derailer a are Shimano Alivio, which is meant MTB. But weirdly, the crankset is 42T. BCD is 130, which seems to point to Road. I was told I can't mix road and MTB. It that's true, then the Dahon configuration seems weird. Unless the intention is to allow for upgrade to road group set.
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Old 04-01-16, 10:46 PM
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"Road" and "mountain" are essentially meaningless on folders; the manufacturers grab what will work for the application. In your case you have a wide-range cassette which requires a long cage derailleur - hence, the Alivio - and one chainring attempting to cover the spread for most road rides. Dahon started with a 130 BCD 42 (too low, in my opinion), with the ability to upgrade to a 50 or 52 if you choose. Personally I would try the 50 before going to all the trouble of double-izing that bike.
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Old 04-02-16, 07:19 AM
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That is not altogether accurate, as follows:
Road calipers have different pull from mountain v-brake and mountain disc calipers, and vice versa.
11-speed mountain cogsets will mount on regular hubs, but 11-speed road components will require a 11-speed hub.
Road rear derailleurs have different pull from mountain derailleurs. Therefore one cannot use mountain shifters with road shifter, and vice versa.
x road and mountain hubs have different OLD.

One cannot mix at will. Some care needs to be exercised.


Originally Posted by Joe Remi
"Road" and "mountain" are essentially meaningless on folders; the manufacturers grab what will work for the application. In your case you have a wide-range cassette which requires a long cage derailleur - hence, the Alivio - and one chainring attempting to cover the spread for most road rides. Dahon started with a 130 BCD 42 (too low, in my opinion), with the ability to upgrade to a 50 or 52 if you choose. Personally I would try the 50 before going to all the trouble of double-izing that bike.
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Old 04-02-16, 12:27 PM
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I said the monikers are meaningless for folders, that manufacturers use what works. They obviously don't mix parts that won't work together. There are very few trail-specific folding bicycles, so it doesn't make much sense to refer to them as having "road" or "mountain" parts, and doing so only confuses potential folder buyers. The OP's Dahon has a long cage derailleur and 130 BCD cranks. That's the best, most accurate way to say it.
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Old 04-02-16, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Abu Mahendra
Road rear derailleurs have different pull from mountain derailleurs. Therefore one cannot use mountain shifters with road shifter, and vice versa.
It is possible use many Shimano MTB shifters with Shimano road derailleurs and vice versa. I'm running a 9 speed MTB shifter with a road derailleur. The interchangeability was almost universal until the Shadow series came along.
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Old 04-02-16, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe Remi
Personally I would try the 50 before going to all the trouble of double-izing that bike.
Since you probably already have an 11-32 cassette in the back I would also recommend to save some money and just swap out the 42t chainring for a 50t. You can get a decent 50t 130 BCD for 20 bucks on ebay. Your top end will be significantly improved with still enough low end to climb most hills (except for the super steep ones).

Last edited by leoho5; 04-02-16 at 03:40 PM.
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