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Questions from a new Dahon owner
I received my Speed P8 a few weeks ago, but was working on other projects, so just took it out of the box today. I went for a (very) short test ride and generally like it, but have a few questions - if someone can answer one or more.
Clamping closed - after hearing so much about the magnets, I found mine has a new system consisting of a prong to be attached to the non-chainside rear dropout, and a socket (already installed) on the fork. I don't know why they switched - installing the prong is a royal pain, and I've given up for the moment. They say you need two 10mm hex wrenches, but what you discover when you try to do it is that they both need to be open-end flat wrenches. Neither nut is particularly easy to get at, and it's almost impossible to keep one locked down while turning the other - without one or both wrenches slipping off. I'm now thinking that I'll need to put a lock-wrench on the outer nut while trying to keep a flat wrench on the inner one. Are there any tricks to accomplishing this that anyone has successfully used? Alternately, can / should I buy and install the magnets instead? Are they any easier to deal with? Do they require anything for mounting that is not on my bike? How do you align the fork and handlebars? I was never able to get them quite squared off. When you loosen the quick release,the bars naturally want to drop straight down, and it's quite difficult to secure the quick release while simultaneously keeping everything aligned. I'm wondering if it's possible to half lock down the quick release, do an alignment, and then complete the lock down? I miss not having toe clips, in terms of positioning my feet on the pedals, being able to draw a pedal upwards, and being able to get a power start away from a light, etc. I know some folks will use toe clips without the straps.What do people use - are there solutions that still allow the pedals to fold? I really hate grip shift and wonder if there is a relatively inexpensive option? It's been decades since I've done any serious bike work, so would go through a shop. I've read of guys swapping out the shifters, but didn't pay attention to what was used instead. I found another thread where some say brifters won't work, while others successfully use them. Does adding a front rack and bag (with contents) help dampen the steering? I didn't have any real trouble with it, but it does seem really quick and I'd like to slow it downsome. I think that's all for now - thanks. ==>> A non-Dahon, forum-techie question - I use Word to compose long posts, but when I paste them in here many of my spaces get deleted - anyone know what causes that? |
Clipping in
I use Power Staps with quick-remove pedals. No wrench neeed to remove pedal. Push in the spindle neck, and they come off
https://dl.dropbox.com/s/u58sc4v0qrl...4602.jpg?raw=1
Originally Posted by velotrain
(Post 18964513)
I received my Speed P8 a few weeks ago, but was working on other projects, so just took it out of the box today. I went for a (very) short test ride and generally like it, but have a few questions - if someone can answer one or more.
Clamping closed - after hearing so much about the magnets, I found mine has a new system consisting of a prong to be attached to the non-chainside rear dropout, and a socket (already installed) on the fork. I don't know why they switched - installing the prong is a royal pain, and I've given up for the moment. They say you need two 10mm hex wrenches, but what you discover when you try to do it is that they both need to be open-end flat wrenches. Neither nut is particularly easy to get at, and it's almost impossible to keep one locked down while turning the other - without one or both wrenches slipping off. I'm now thinking that I'll need to put a lock-wrench on the outer nut while trying to keep a flat wrench on the inner one. Are there any tricks to accomplishing this that anyone has successfully used? Alternately, can / should I buy and install the magnets instead? Are they any easier to deal with? Do they require anything for mounting that is not on my bike? How do you align the fork and handlebars? I was never able to get them quite squared off. When you loosen the quick release,the bars naturally want to drop straight down, and it's quite difficult to secure the quick release while simultaneously keeping everything aligned. I'm wondering if it's possible to half lock down the quick release, do an alignment, and then complete the lock down? I miss not having toe clips, in terms of positioning my feet on the pedals, being able to draw a pedal upwards, and being able to get a power start away from a light, etc. I know some folks will use toe clips without the straps.What do people use - are there solutions that still allow the pedals to fold? I really hate grip shift and wonder if there is a relatively inexpensive option? It's been decades since I've done any serious bike work, so would go through a shop. I've read of guys swapping out the shifters, but didn't pay attention to what was used instead. I found another thread where some say brifters won't work, while others successfully use them. Does adding a front rack and bag (with contents) help dampen the steering? I didn't have any real trouble with it, but it does seem really quick and I'd like to slow it downsome. I think that's all for now - thanks. ==>> A non-Dahon, forum-techie question - I use Word to compose long posts, but when I paste them in here many of my spaces get deleted - anyone know what causes that? |
Originally Posted by velotrain
(Post 18964513)
I received my Speed P8 a few weeks ago, ... after hearing so much about the magnets, I found mine has a new system consisting of a prong to be attached to the non-chainside rear dropout, and a socket (already installed) on the fork. ... can / should I buy and install the magnets instead? Are they any easier to deal with? Do they require anything for mounting that is not on my bike? ...
I have owned 4 Dahons, including 2 Speed P8s. The all have had the Magnetix system. When we were an authorized Dahon dealer, we converted many of the "new" clip systems to the Magnetix system. The parts are available at Special Parts Dahon Tern and others I think Dahon has moved back to the Magnetix system for most of its North American bikes. -HANK RYAN- Norman, Oklahoma USA |
My experience with the Magnetix is that they are only strong for stationary folding. Onc3 you start moving or rolling the bike, they are not strong enough to keep it clamped.
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Originally Posted by HGR3inOK
(Post 18964765)
> When we were an authorized Dahon dealer, we converted many of the "new" clip systems to the Magnetix system. -HANK RYAN- Norman, Oklahoma USA Hank - You seem to be suggesting that there's a problem with the clip system - could you tell me what it is? One of the other fellows who responded says he had problems with the magnets, and I've heard that elsewhere. I'm starting to think I should just get a few large Velcro straps ;-) |
Originally Posted by Abu Mahendra
(Post 18964676)
I use Power Staps with quick-remove pedals. No wrench neeed to remove pedal. Push in the spindle neck, and they come off
Abu - I mostly do urban riding and have never tried these straps - can you quickly get your foot positioned correctly in them? How often and under what situations do you remove the pedals? I see that this can create an even thinner profile, but I'm trying to picture just how I would take advantage of it. Charles |
I use the "half clips" which are almost like regular clips without the strap. You can't pull up, but they at least do a decent job on the push-forward part of the rotation.
On my P8, I have them installed on MKS quick release pedals. I also just installed a set on my Brompton stock pedals - they don't impact the fold much. I ride my P8 with the handlebars at the lowest, so I only need to align while tightening the QR. |
https://dl.dropbox.com/s/g77b7ozer2x...4933.jpg?raw=1
https://dl.dropbox.com/s/ai59js0n5pj...2330.jpg?raw=1 https://dl.dropbox.com/s/jxzpg2xp3a1...6878.jpg?raw=1 yes, the Power Grips are angled so you need to angle out your foot, heel out, to get in and out. pull your foot backwards without angling the heel, and you ain't coming out. obviously sideways movement of the foot is constrained by the strap. the angle of the strap is fixed, but the length of the strap around the foot can be adjusted. getting in and out becomes instictive after a while. regarding the removal of the pedals i hardly ever do it. when i do i leave them on to act as bumpers so the bike itself or the drivetrain are better protected. but that's just me.
Originally Posted by velotrain
(Post 18964836)
Abu -
I mostly do urban riding and have never tried these straps - can you quickly get your foot positioned correctly in them? How often and under what situations do you remove the pedals? I see that this can create an even thinner profile, but I'm trying to picture just how I would take advantage of it. Charles |
shifters
changing from grip to trigger shifters should be relatively simple. what are your drivetrain components?
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Originally Posted by Abu Mahendra
(Post 18964676)
I use Power Staps with quick-remove pedals. No wrench neeed to remove pedal. Push in the spindle neck, and they come off
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FWIW, I love power straps but I eventually took them off my Bike Friday. First, they would drag on the ground on turns if I wasn't strapped in. Second, in constant stop and go city traffic it got to be a pain to try to get the pedal right side up when starting from a stop. And if I just pedaled from the stop to slide in past the intersection, the straps dragged on the ground. Annoying. Perhaps a bike with a higher clearance would have made a difference. In any case, if anyone wants to buy the Power Strap high performance pedals and straps (tan argyle), I've got a set available.
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Originally Posted by linberl
(Post 18968121)
FWIW, I love power straps but I eventually took them off my Bike Friday. First, they would drag on the ground on turns if I wasn't strapped in. Second, in constant stop and go city traffic it got to be a pain to try to get the pedal right side up when starting from a stop. And if I just pedaled from the stop to slide in past the intersection, the straps dragged on the ground. Annoying. Perhaps a bike with a higher clearance would have made a difference. In any case, if anyone wants to buy the Power Strap high performance pedals and straps (tan argyle), I've got a set available.
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These are the ones I have; bought them from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Power-Grips-P.../dp/B00OKYQ0XI
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Three notes on the Power Grips:
1. ground clearance is of course dependent on bottom bracket height and crank arm length. on my Dash, there are no clearance issues. i know this because the wife always rides unstrapped, she's never said anything, and i can observe the rig from behind. i always strap in. 2. my technique is always to have one foot strapped in. at a standtill one foot, the same one, the right one, is still strapped in. this means that strapping in is always one foot, the left one. 3. technique has one strapping by tipping the pedal when it's at the 12 oclock position, or when one can just slip in at the 7 oclock position.
Originally Posted by linberl
(Post 18968121)
FWIW, I love power straps but I eventually took them off my Bike Friday. First, they would drag on the ground on turns if I wasn't strapped in. Second, in constant stop and go city traffic it got to be a pain to try to get the pedal right side up when starting from a stop. And if I just pedaled from the stop to slide in past the intersection, the straps dragged on the ground. Annoying. Perhaps a bike with a higher clearance would have made a difference. In any case, if anyone wants to buy the Power Strap high performance pedals and straps (tan argyle), I've got a set available.
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My BF is just too low. I used an older pair on both my Trek bikes without a problem...the unstrapped foot didn't drag until I tipped it, it was fine. On the BF, the unstrapped foot would scrape the ground until I got it flipped. I have Rivendell Grip Kings now and they work perfectly for me, grippy enough to allow the right amount of drag as I retract the pedal stroke.
Originally Posted by Abu Mahendra
(Post 18968301)
Three notes on the Power Grips:
1. ground clearance is of course dependent on bottom bracket height and crank arm length. on my Dash, there are no clearance issues. i know this because the wife always rides unstrapped, she's never said anything, and i can observe the rig from behind. i always strap in. 2. my technique is always to have one foot strapped in. at a standtill one foot, the same one, the right one, is still strapped in. this means that strapping in is always one foot, the left one. 3. technique has one strapping by tipping the pedal when it's at the 12 oclock position, or when one can just slip in at the 7 oclock position. |
as for the plastic ball socket thingies on some dahons..... I don't like them. Magnets are much nicer
and if the magnets are too weak get some tern magnets they are at least double as strong ... Handlebar.... adjust the handlestem a little offset, so the upper handlepost leans against the inner channel, when closing push one side forward and close quick release ... there is enough play in the groove to make the handlebar slightly crocked if it floats around while closing powerstraps with mks pedals ... great improvement in many ways shifter... easy enough to change around ... keep in mind that u might need equal length grips as well |
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