Misaligned Dahon Mu Uno handle stem
06-07-17, 06:53 AM
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Misaligned Dahon Mu Uno handle stem
Hi,
I posted yesterday as my handlebar was locked in place and unable to fold. I am now able to fold it and have loosened the two screws in the top part of the handle bar as they had been overtightened but now it is misaligned.
It's not subtly off line, it's almost straight on. I'm not sure what needs to be adjusted to be able to turn the handle stem straight. I don't have a 10" hex so I'm not sure if it's the base that needs to be readjusted.
Thanks
I posted yesterday as my handlebar was locked in place and unable to fold. I am now able to fold it and have loosened the two screws in the top part of the handle bar as they had been overtightened but now it is misaligned.
It's not subtly off line, it's almost straight on. I'm not sure what needs to be adjusted to be able to turn the handle stem straight. I don't have a 10" hex so I'm not sure if it's the base that needs to be readjusted.
Thanks
06-07-17, 06:57 AM
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Maybe the alignment in folded mode , it's OK, , straightened for riding and folded its off..
Blind guess since I'm not there.
Blind guess since I'm not there.
06-07-17, 07:30 AM
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Last edited by ziggycj; 06-07-17 at 07:33 AM. Reason: no idea what I'm doing
06-07-17, 07:31 AM
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Last edited by ziggycj; 06-07-17 at 07:36 AM.
06-07-17, 08:33 AM
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See the handlepost and headset adjustments described here: https://dahon.com/wp-content/uploads/...structions.pdf on pages 11 and 12. (It looks like you have the "Radius" handlepost.)
The handlepost assembly on your bike is rotated relative to the steerer (fork headset tube). This is because the large bolt on the outside of the handlepost base (see first image) has been loosened. This bolt corresponds to the "stem" bolt(s) on a standard bike, and needs to be loosened for the headset to be properly adjusted.
The pre-load on the headset bearings is adjusted with the large (10mm, IIRC) bolt in the center of the handlepost base (see second image). Once pre-load is set, the handlepost base nut is tightened... **AFTER** the handlepost is aligned properly.
The small bolts holding the sliding "shoe" to the upper part of the handlepost base (on the left in the second image) should be slightly loose, or the handlepost latch may be impossible to open. This will not affect the proper closure of the latch.
Hope this helps!
Steve
The handlepost assembly on your bike is rotated relative to the steerer (fork headset tube). This is because the large bolt on the outside of the handlepost base (see first image) has been loosened. This bolt corresponds to the "stem" bolt(s) on a standard bike, and needs to be loosened for the headset to be properly adjusted.
The pre-load on the headset bearings is adjusted with the large (10mm, IIRC) bolt in the center of the handlepost base (see second image). Once pre-load is set, the handlepost base nut is tightened... **AFTER** the handlepost is aligned properly.
The small bolts holding the sliding "shoe" to the upper part of the handlepost base (on the left in the second image) should be slightly loose, or the handlepost latch may be impossible to open. This will not affect the proper closure of the latch.
Hope this helps!
Steve
06-07-17, 12:11 PM
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you might be able to turn the assembly by only loosen the side 6 mm allen bolt ..... dont forget to re tighten
good that yu have it open
thor
good that yu have it open
thor
06-12-17, 03:29 AM
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See the handlepost and headset adjustments described here: https://dahon.com/wp-content/uploads/...structions.pdf on pages 11 and 12. (It looks like you have the "Radius" handlepost.)
The handlepost assembly on your bike is rotated relative to the steerer (fork headset tube). This is because the large bolt on the outside of the handlepost base (see first image) has been loosened. This bolt corresponds to the "stem" bolt(s) on a standard bike, and needs to be loosened for the headset to be properly adjusted.
The pre-load on the headset bearings is adjusted with the large (10mm, IIRC) bolt in the center of the handlepost base (see second image). Once pre-load is set, the handlepost base nut is tightened... **AFTER** the handlepost is aligned properly.
The small bolts holding the sliding "shoe" to the upper part of the handlepost base (on the left in the second image) should be slightly loose, or the handlepost latch may be impossible to open. This will not affect the proper closure of the latch.
Hope this helps!
Steve
The handlepost assembly on your bike is rotated relative to the steerer (fork headset tube). This is because the large bolt on the outside of the handlepost base (see first image) has been loosened. This bolt corresponds to the "stem" bolt(s) on a standard bike, and needs to be loosened for the headset to be properly adjusted.
The pre-load on the headset bearings is adjusted with the large (10mm, IIRC) bolt in the center of the handlepost base (see second image). Once pre-load is set, the handlepost base nut is tightened... **AFTER** the handlepost is aligned properly.
The small bolts holding the sliding "shoe" to the upper part of the handlepost base (on the left in the second image) should be slightly loose, or the handlepost latch may be impossible to open. This will not affect the proper closure of the latch.
Hope this helps!
Steve
My handle post is slightly loose when closed (which is why they overtighten in the first place). They said the hinge/latch might be worn but couldn’t confirm as they couldn't find a way to try tightening the latch.
Do you know what kind of key/tool is needed to tighten the latch?
06-12-17, 04:32 PM
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Yes. A simple open end wrench (8 mm) on the nut seen in the second image above between the white plastic cam follower and the sliding latch plate. Turning counter-clockwise (as seen from the white plastic) tightens the latch. Turn it a quarter turn at a time until the lever requires moderate but firm pressure to close. Don't ride with the latch loose or the hinges may be damaged.
Steve
EDIT:
If the shop couldn't figure this out, I would be very skeptical about letting them do any further work on the bike (or *any* bike!).
Steve
EDIT:
If the shop couldn't figure this out, I would be very skeptical about letting them do any further work on the bike (or *any* bike!).
Last edited by sweeks; 06-12-17 at 04:50 PM.
