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Pakit people (and others) please check my thinking...

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Pakit people (and others) please check my thinking...

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Old 10-22-17, 09:47 PM
  #1  
linberl
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Pakit people (and others) please check my thinking...

I've moved the $ from my investment account to my liquid account, so I am moving the direction of actually getting a new bike. I ride my NWT in one gear most of the time (around 56 gear inches) and will go up one gear if I'm feeling really energetic or down one gear for hills or when my knees hurt - but at least 90% of the time I stick in the one gear and use cadence to speed up. I spin between 60 and 85 rpm depending on the rise, closer to 60 when my knees hurt and I'll hit 90 on a great day.
For the Pakit, I want simplicity and light weight without going over 2 grand. I'm thinking of a single speed, in part because eventually I will get my Shareroller motor and that will be like having extra gears when needed.
Pondering belt drive versus chain, while I love the idea of a nice clean belt, I believe it is not easy to change out the gear inches (or cheap) and with the chain if I end up with the wrong gear inch or want to change it as I get even older, it's easy and cheap. The only drawback is some grease and a very minor weight penalty.
Motivation for the Pakit is getting something much smaller as my NWT takes up the entire back of the car when I travel. Also, I don't want to carry a lock so having something I can take in places matters. No concern about cargo as I am getting a Travoy.
BF says the SS is 61 gear inches standard, I'm thinking about having them reduce it but then I worry I might spin out badly using the Shareroller motor. Single freewheels are cheap so I'll probably try it standard first (that's why a belt drive might be a problem). And the extra $400 for the belt drive will buy some nice upgrades for the chain drive. Finally, if I decide the SS was a really stupid idea, I can buy a new rear wheel and add some gears for not a lot of money.
Am I missing any considerations or thinking incorrectly about any of this? I only want to keep one bike so I will probably sell my NWT after a bit. No big tours going forward.
Thanks for your thoughts and advice.

OH, and brompton is not a consideration, I don't find them comfortable for me at all.
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Old 10-22-17, 10:47 PM
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I can't think of anything you're missing. Personally I think belt drive is for people with too much money using too much chain lube. I'd get the chain with easily changed gearing and not dowse it with lube like I'm trying to put out a fire.
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Old 10-22-17, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe Remi View Post
I can't think of anything you're missing. Personally I think belt drive is for people with too much money using too much chain lube. I'd get the chain with easily changed gearing and not dowse it with lube like I'm trying to put out a fire.
Well, I know a lot of people are big on belt drives and they get talked about a lot. They just don't seem very flexible to me in terms of changes.

With the extra $ saved, I'd like to upgrade the cranks and brakes but I don't know what would be better options. The crank is 130bcd with a 68mm english bb. My NWT has a hollow tech BB and FSA cranks and I like them okay. Something lighter and even smoother would be okay - I'm assuming BF can get whatever I ask for. Any recs?

Also, I've never had caliper brakes, always v or disc. I've Avid sd-5's now with sd-7 levers and they're very nice. I don't know what a lighter upgrade would be from the FSA Gossamer that BF lists.

I'd get my own saddle and pedals - I've got Grip Kings on the NWT and would probably get the removable version for the Pakit along with a light saddle. I've finally gotten my Brooks comfortable but it weights too much. Considering a Terry Titanium Butterfly or Bontrager Anji. I'd also be getting the titanium seat mast and the Elite fork to save a little weight to offset the heavier pedals.

This will probably be the last bike I buy (no, really, lol) so I want to get what I want, not just what I need, for a change.
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Old 10-23-17, 01:05 AM
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There's a plethora of single-ring cranks to choose from, but be aware that BF seems to be using road-width chainrings and freewheels for 3/32" chains. The fixie crowd uses 1/8 chains with wider teeth. I have a custom singlespeed cyclocross bike with a Paul Components 1/8 crank on a square-taper bottom bracket. It's pretty and expensive, but I'm not sure it would be appreciably lighter than the stock BF kit. I would take BF's advice on replacing them as you need to keep a good chainline.

The brakes are Dia-Compe BRS dual-pivot. I don't know anything about these, but their old single-pivot design (same name) was famed enough for its lightness that weight weenies would ditch their fancy dual-pivot Campy or Dura-Ace to have them. My preference would be to start with the Dia-Compes, then replace them with something blingy later if I got the mood.

Anyone else have thoughts on this?
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Old 10-23-17, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by badmother View Post
There is a lot in your post I can not answer to but I can say something about adding electric assist to a bike. I guess you already know becouse you have been using the electric front wheel on your NWT.

I converted an old steel bike some years ago. First the bike was converted from a two speed kick back sachs hub to a Nexus7 and set up for hauling a trailer and light touring. Can not remember gear inches and stuff but that is not important- the bike was suited for our legs, riding where we ride. Then I addad the electric wheel and the gearing was suddenly way off. We now use only the "heavyest" gear, the rest is unsuitable. (I need to fix that bike soon... )

What I am trying to say is that you may find a SS to be not suited unless you ride wit e-assist only (no pedaling) when you use the share roller and then pedal only when the roller is not in use. this is what came to my mind when reading about your plans.

I know you want light, but did you look into a SA 5 speed hub at almost the same weight as a 3 speed SA hub? Other options is a Brompton 2 speed rear hub with three cogs on it, you can get the cogs in Ti.

edit: About your saddle: Since you now have a comfy but heavy Brooks. What about transfering the leather top to a Titanium brooks frame? Can you still get frames as spare parts like you could in the past?
Yes, I am concerned about the gearing. I am thinking with the chain drive, I can adjust depending on what happens. Since I like to "spin" I think it won't be a huge issue. I used a gear/speed/cadence calc for 16" wheels and a cadence of 90 rpm puts me at around 19mph, which is probably as fast as I would ever feel comfortable going even though the motor can go faster. But, yes, I'm not sure how the friction drive will work with the single speed. I figure the chain drive gives me the most options later on. My hope is that one of the "tailwind" modes of pedal assist will give me the boost I need to get over my not-huge hills, but it does have a throttle if I am desperate, lol. So many unknowns...

I had no idea you could put the top of a Brooks on another frame!!! Going to read up about it now, thanks. My butt worked hard to soften that seat and I feel like it earned the right to live another day =).

I'm avoiding hubs because they are a pain for flat tires - something I deal with even with marathons because of stupid people and glass bottles.

There's a 2 speed 2016 brompton for $800 near me, hardly used. It's an M model. I might go test ride it because the M stem is closer than the S stem (short arms) and I could have my lbs shorten the cables and put a flatter bar on it, I guess. It's heavier than a Pakit and I would have to carry it up 3 flights of stairs when I visit my son (no elevator) but I could do it with a shoulder strap. It also means learning maintenance on an entirely different "animal" from my NWT and maybe some new tools, and also getting over my mental image of pootlers - need to go watch the Brompton races a few times, lol.

Assuming I can get comfortable by using the M stem and S-type bar, then I need to get the cranks replaced with 165mm (per my pro bike fit). But I'd have to do that with a new one, too, as you can't select that option. OTOH, I know the 2 speed brompton would work great with my friction drive as the easy gear is my preferred gear inch on my NWT for almost everything, and that would leave a harder gear to push with the motor. A 2 speed Pakit is really what I need!!!!
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Old 10-23-17, 11:54 AM
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Make sure that the OLD will match the possibility of swapping to an IGH.

If you go with chain drive but think you might want to go belt later, you might want to include the necessary rear triangle differences if you change you mind later.

Small changes in gearing is not bad as long as there is enough space in the drop outs in the starting position. That is, changing the rear cog one tooth up or down should definitely be in range of most sliding drop outs. Maybe two teeth? I'm not sure but I imagine the BF folks could explain in detail. But my experience with belt drive on the Strida is that it's a meaningful upgrade.
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Old 10-23-17, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by invisiblehand View Post
Make sure that the OLD will match the possibility of swapping to an IGH.

If you go with chain drive but think you might want to go belt later, you might want to include the necessary rear triangle differences if you change you mind later.

Small changes in gearing is not bad as long as there is enough space in the drop outs in the starting position. That is, changing the rear cog one tooth up or down should definitely be in range of most sliding drop outs. Maybe two teeth? I'm not sure but I imagine the BF folks could explain in detail. But my experience with belt drive on the Strida is that it's a meaningful upgrade.
"Meaningful upgrade" because of no grease or noise or is there some other reason? I keep my NWT chain clean and properly lubed so it's quiet and I wipe it after lube dries so it's not that messy. Is there some other benefit I'm unaware of?
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Old 10-23-17, 12:57 PM
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I have 2 Bromptons(2013 6speed, straight bar & 201? 3 speed, M/curved bar) and 1 Bike Friday pakiT(2017 8 speed der.).

Some thoughts:
1. Chain vs. belt. I went with chain for ease of gearing change, chainring/cassette. I already have a few 130 BCD rings laying around
from my Bromptons. As well as chains. Weight, belt might be lighter than a chain but if you compare the rings/sprockets - they're (much)thicker.
So I'm assuming they will be heavier than their skinnier chain counterparts. So lighter belt; heavier rings? Then you have price to consider; the
belt combo will be more expensive.
2. pakiT can be ordered with 165mm cranks; which is what I have.
3. Used Brompton(US$800/around 25lbs.?)) vs. new Pakit(US$1,100/19.29lbs (8.75kg)). Following your posts; I don't see where the compact fold
of the Brompton will help you much. I do see you mention a lot that you want something lighter. And you post about playing w/ the gearing; for this
reasons - I'd recommend the pakiT over a Brompton.
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Old 10-23-17, 01:29 PM
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Hmm, you said "Brompton not a consideration at all", then changed to considering a 2-speed Brompton. If this is potentially your last bike and you're willing to spend some cash, you might want to consider going bananas with an S2-X with the titanium fork and rear triangle. There's a limited model just out now derived from former British racer David Millar's clothing brand labeled CHPT3. It's pretty sweet.
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Old 10-23-17, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 1nterceptor View Post
I have 2 Bromptons(2013 6speed, straight bar & 201? 3 speed, M/curved bar) and 1 Bike Friday pakiT(2017 8 speed der.).

Some thoughts:
1. Chain vs. belt. I went with chain for ease of gearing change, chainring/cassette. I already have a few 130 BCD rings laying around
from my Bromptons. As well as chains. Weight, belt might be lighter than a chain but if you compare the rings/sprockets - they're (much)thicker.
So I'm assuming they will be heavier than their skinnier chain counterparts. So lighter belt; heavier rings? Then you have price to consider; the
belt combo will be more expensive.
2. pakiT can be ordered with 165mm cranks; which is what I have.
3. Used Brompton(US$800/around 25lbs.?)) vs. new Pakit(US$1,100/19.29lbs (8.75kg)). Following your posts; I don't see where the compact fold
of the Brompton will help you much. I do see you mention a lot that you want something lighter. And you post about playing w/ the gearing; for this
reasons - I'd recommend the pakiT over a Brompton.
You are right - the only advantage to the Brompton for me is the 2 speed versus single speed, just needed to hear it.
I've decided I can definitely make the Pakit roll.
I also can get a handle for the main tube to make carrying easier.
So now the big difference is gearing. If I go with the Pakit I would have them gear it down to 56 gear inches or so for me to ride until my Shareroller finally arrives. Then I could gear it back up as needed.

I'm also willing to spend the extra $ to get it down to just about 18 lbs with seat/pedals for low total carrying weight.
Upgrading to titanium seat post/elite fork helps. Titanium saddle. Looking for super light swept back bars and lighter crankset. Could use suggestions...
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Old 10-23-17, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe Remi View Post
Hmm, you said "Brompton not a consideration at all", then changed to considering a 2-speed Brompton. If this is potentially your last bike and you're willing to spend some cash, you might want to consider going bananas with an S2-X with the titanium fork and rear triangle. There's a limited model just out now derived from former British racer David Millar's clothing brand labeled CHPT3. It's pretty sweet.
Yeah, I waffled there a minute, but it would take a lot of work to make it comfortable....aber hallo, new cranks, etc. So while they are definitely pretty, paying over 2 grand to still be around 21-22 lbs doesn't make sense to me, especially with having to do aftermarket stuff. I remembered why I didn't get one the first time. But they are pretty....sigh.
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Old 10-23-17, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by linberl View Post
Yeah, I waffled there a minute, but it would take a lot of work to make it comfortable....aber hallo, new cranks, etc. So while they are definitely pretty, paying over 2 grand to still be around 21-22 lbs doesn't make sense to me, especially with having to do aftermarket stuff. I remembered why I didn't get one the first time. But they are pretty....sigh.
Check it out. I'm not getting one, either, but it's so cool!

https://portapedalbike.com/catalog/brompton-s6e-chpt3-special-edition-coming-soon-pre-order/
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Old 10-23-17, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe Remi View Post
Check it out. I'm not getting one, either, but it's so cool!

https://portapedalbike.com/catalog/b...oon-pre-order/
Drool
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Old 10-23-17, 02:50 PM
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I like my 3 speed,(Brompton, same wheel size) 54:15 .. 77.1, 57.9, 43.4
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/rohloff.html


50 : 14 offers a 76.5 . 57.4 , 43.0

48:13 offers 79.1, 59.3, 44.5.. etc,, want the belt drive? there is a belt drive cog for SA hubs .

there is also a Gates screw on freewheel cog to use a simple rear hub too ..

rear fold makes belt and Brompton impossible , of course..



...

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Old 10-23-17, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by badmother View Post
just a quick search and this came up:https://www.bicycleworkshop.co.uk/m2...ks-Spare-Parts. You`ll find the best solution how to buy, local LBS or ordering online. You can buy rivets too. there is several different rivets I think i remember. You can search Bikeforums for threads on this too.



I understand this but my experience is that if you just do it often enough there is no problem really. There are some things that is useful to learn to deal with it, like using two nuts on the toggle chain and tighten them against eachother or use locktite. that way it`ll stay adjusted when disconected so just scmack scmack it back together . Also there is the "patching without remowing the wheel method and then there is the "two tubes in one wheel, just pump up the other one" solution. Also it looks like those "solid (foam) tyres are getting better and better. Bottles, yes they can damage more than just bike tyres. During the shootings in Vegas what I was looking at was all the bottles lying on the ground. I was staring at them, wondering how many of them was glass and how much damage they did on top of all the damage done by the madman...



If you can make a B fit it is a solid and easy solution. It is not uncommon to use a quick release for twisting the handlebars for a better fold for peopel who use non stock bars. You could start with just twisting the M bars towards you, maybe that is all you need. One of the good things about the B is all the aftermarked parts to costumize and bling out (if you want bling) the bike. You can spend some money on TI to reduce weight. Also if you want a different drivetrain the parts is awailable. I bet it is possible to build a 2 speed Packit too.

You could have a spare rear wheel with a gear hub or something too- possible for both bikes. Easyer cheaper and takes up less space than having two bikes and still fleksible.

If you end up getting the Brompton I would look into getting an older alu framed back pack from a second hand shop. They are super light and you can strap the bike to it and carry it on your back, using two sholders instead of one.

If you get the packiT I suggest you look into ordering it with the Brompton luggage option.

Keep us updated. This is exiting
Oh, wow, you were in/live in Vegas???? There are no words...

While I do love the look, I think the Brompton is out. I'd have to spend over 2 grand to get down to 21-22 lbs and then spend more to make it fit me :-(. I think the weight matters more than a 2d gear to me. I just came back from a ride and I didn't shift once...a little momentum, some fast spinning and some slow mashing.
BUT - your idea of a second wheel is genius!!! And it's something I can do as the need arises, assuming it does, and for far less than a titanium Brompton. I'm also reading up on White Industries dual freewheel (one freewheel with two sets of cogs on it!). There also might be some other cool options out there if I keep looking. But I'm thinking a super light <18lb ss is the best start.
As for the motor, there are lots of single speed ebikes out there (in fact, most of the ebikes guys build on endless sphere are ss). So I'm confident I can figure the gearing out.
The Pakit is sweet in it's own way, not as classic or elegant as the Brompton, but I do like it.
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Old 10-23-17, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by linberl View Post
While I do love the look, I think the Brompton is out. I'd have to spend over 2 grand to get down to 21-22 lbs and then spend more to make it fit me :-(. I think the weight matters more than a 2d gear to me. I just came back from a ride and I didn't shift once...a little momentum, some fast spinning and some slow mashing.
BUT - your idea of a second wheel is genius!!! And it's something I can do as the need arises, assuming it does, and for far less than a titanium Brompton. I'm also reading up on White Industries dual freewheel (one freewheel with two sets of cogs on it!). There also might be some other cool options out there if I keep looking. But I'm thinking a super light <18lb ss is the best start.
As for the motor, there are lots of single speed ebikes out there (in fact, most of the ebikes guys build on endless sphere are ss). So I'm confident I can figure the gearing out.
The Pakit is sweet in it's own way, not as classic or elegant as the Brompton, but I do like it.
Yes, the ShareRoller will eliminate much need for gears if you're already doing well with one speed. I have a Rivendell with a mid-drive kit: That design requires some shifting to keep the pedals spinning and avoid overheat, but I still only use the top 4 gears most of the time.

For your application I would shoot for one gear you're happy riding on flats, and think of the ShareRoller as the downshift for hills..forget trying to finagle 2 speeds in there. The trick will be to keep the front chainring big enough that you won't be constantly spinning out on the power. Personally I'd start with the stock setup and make any future gearing decisions after you've installed the e-kit.
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Old 10-23-17, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by badmother View Post
Nope, but we have TV in the old world too- and internet




Maybe you can use Brompton cogs, even Ti cogs on that freewheel. Nine spline?




Where you live it looks like you are allowed to use a e-bike as a scooter, ride on E-assist only so it makes sense. Maybe a fair amount of those builders look at it as transport- and it happends to be a bike and therefor they do not bother about gears. Here the rules are you need to pedal to get E-assist. A bike rebuilt into a E-scooter neds to register as a E-scooter (and stay out of bike lanes) so different rules and maybe more hills here.

It is all about your needs and where you live so you are the best judge and I think you know what you are doing
Yeah, we have different rules here in the US. But for me, it's about pedal power and exercise. I only intend to use my motor when I ride with my adult son (he's tired of waiting for me) and for one ride I do that has a huge climb at first, and to pull my Costco loads home on my Travoy (I can do it with 40 lbs of dog food+ but it's not fun going up the over pass). That's why I am doing the Shareroller - it's staying in my backpack unless I need it (only about 4 lbs with batteries). I am hoping the single speed gear for my non-motorized ride will still be usable when I do use the motor, the motor is definitely a secondary item, riding manually comes first even if I give up a bit of motorized speed. The throttle would be just for a rare burst in the middle of human power.
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Old 10-23-17, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe Remi View Post
Yes, the ShareRoller will eliminate much need for gears if you're already doing well with one speed. I have a Rivendell with a mid-drive kit: That design requires some shifting to keep the pedals spinning and avoid overheat, but I still only use the top 4 gears most of the time.

For your application I would shoot for one gear you're happy riding on flats, and think of the ShareRoller as the downshift for hills..forget trying to finagle 2 speeds in there. The trick will be to keep the front chainring big enough that you won't be constantly spinning out on the power. Personally I'd start with the stock setup and make any future gearing decisions after you've installed the e-kit.
Sounds good, what I am hoping for. With the chain drive, a new chain ring or cog is pretty simple and inexpensive. I think you are right to get it mostly stock and then go from there - I can always get a second wheel as Badmother mentioned if it's a big problem.
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Old 10-24-17, 07:41 AM
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I am not a Pakit person but just wanted to add into the chain vs belt debate.

Personally I would consider a belt over chain because it keeps everything else (clothes and other people) cleaner than a greasy chain. Especially if you're going to take a folder into a packed train or even fit into a car.
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Old 10-24-17, 09:18 AM
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Just an aside, You should specify a cold forged crank , or they may use a cast crankarm set..
the 2nd hand Tikit, spontaneously seemed to lose the pedal threads, in the cost saving cast crank, *

Fortunately, I had an old D-A square taper crank set, in my parts bin, , so I put it on
and recycled the metal in the original , cast, aluminum one..

* guy I got it from sent some money, back, 'beer money' for while I was working out the bugs..

Given the choice, I'd specify the belt ready feature, even if you go for the chain drive initially ,
since the stay opening feature (To let the belt pass thru), is only able to done in building it..



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Old 10-24-17, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
Just an aside, You should specify a cold forged crank , or they may use a cast crankarm set..
the 2nd hand Tikit, spontaneously seemed to lose the pedal threads, in the cost saving cast crank, *

Fortunately, I had an old D-A square taper crank set, in my parts bin, , so I put it on
and recycled the metal in the original , cast, aluminum one..

* guy I got it from sent some money, back, 'beer money' for while I was working out the bugs..

Given the choice, I'd specify the belt ready feature, even if you go for the chain drive initially ,
since the stay opening feature (To let the belt pass thru), is only able to done in building it..



...
I'll ask them about a "belt-ready" option, if it is not a crazy upgrade cost, it makes sense. Best of both.
My NWT had these stock cranks when I got it with the square taper bb - when I had my overhaul I had them swap in some FSA cranks with a hollowtech bb and I really really loved the difference (of course, they were shorter as well).
That's why I'm wondering about not getting the stock cranks again, they just didn't move smoothly imo.
Do you know if they can just put the FSA's (or something else) and a hollowtech on the Pakit or does being SS make it an issue?
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Old 10-24-17, 09:52 AM
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Do you know if they can just put the FSA's (or something else) and a hollowtech on the Pakit or does being SS make it an issue?
I do know they have a 800 number to call them on the phone, toll free, and discuss what components they can fit.
a single speed crank will have a little different chainline than a double with a trouser-guard and the chainring on the inside..

and now with the hollow tech tube spindles and external bearings the spindle is part of the crank arm, so not able to be changed..





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Old 10-24-17, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by linberl View Post
"Meaningful upgrade" because of no grease or noise or is there some other reason? I keep my NWT chain clean and properly lubed so it's quiet and I wipe it after lube dries so it's not that messy. Is there some other benefit I'm unaware of?
It doesn't sound like much -- my ex ante feeling was that it was no big deal -- but over the past five years the clean and maintenance free characteristics of belt drive has been a meaningful plus for a utility bike that I want to grab at a moments notice and simply ride. The clean aspect is really nice for folding and taking into crowded situations (Metro) and placing the bike into trunks, corners, coat checks, closets, and so on.

For clarity, the belt is relatively clean without grease, but there is still some dirt on it. I'm not sure it's worth $400 but I'd seriously consider it on any new bike. In my case, it would depend on what it's being used for. The more utilitarian the bike it, the more likely I'd pay for one.

If it matters, I do all of my own maintenance but I'm at a time of my life where time and attention is the big constraint.
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Old 10-24-17, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by invisiblehand View Post
It doesn't sound like much -- my ex ante feeling was that it was no big deal -- but over the past five years the clean and maintenance free characteristics of belt drive has been a meaningful plus for a utility bike that I want to grab at a moments notice and simply ride. The clean aspect is really nice for folding and taking into crowded situations (Metro) and placing the bike into trunks, corners, coat checks, closets, and so on.

For clarity, the belt is relatively clean without grease, but there is still some dirt on it. I'm not sure it's worth $400 but I'd seriously consider it on any new bike. In my case, it would depend on what it's being used for. The more utilitarian the bike it, the more likely I'd pay for one.

If it matters, I do all of my own maintenance but I'm at a time of my life where time and attention is the big constraint.
Ok that makes sense. I'm retired so maintenance is no issue, and I've never had a problem with my chain drive so for me I think maybe it is a solution in search of a problem. I wipe my chains down after lubing; they aren't very greasy. And a slip cover is easy enough to deploy in a crowded situation (which I avoid as much as possible since i can pick my times to do things). They are very cool looking and save a bit of weight but since my gearing may/will change not sure it's the right option for me - BUT per Fietsbob, I will see what additional cost there is for getting a "belt-ready" rear triangle. that would leave all options open once I get the bike dialed in.
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Old 10-24-17, 12:39 PM
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All right - you'll think I'm crazy but I've changed my mind. I am going with the 8 speed der model. Why? because changing it later to SS is cheap and easy whereas the reverse is much more of a expense/hassle if I'm not happy with the single speed. With the right component choices (titanium seat mast, thomsen seat post, elite fork, titanium saddle) I can get the weight on a small size frame down to just about 19 lbs. It's really only 3/4 lb heavier than the stock single speed. And, I have all the gears for my motor and the ability to see if using it "as a single speed" will work, in which case I can just pull the unnecessary parts and go single speed. But, if I do need two or more gears, I can leave it. Yup, I am making myself a bit crazy but that's the problem with a bike you order instead of actually test out. This feels the safest to me with least room for future dissatisfaction. Again, choosing to avoid the hub models because it's more hassle for flats and I have no problems with chain drives.
Now the question is do I wait and see if Bike Friday is going to offer their holiday $200 discount again this year or not? After the crowdfunding, I'm not sure they will...
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