Check my final pakiT configuration choices
#1
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Check my final pakiT configuration choices
I'm going standard with everything except upgrading to:
1. Thomsen elite seatpost
2. Velocity aeroheat wheels
3. Velocity race hubs, front and rear
4. upgrading to 105 caliper brakes
5. upgrading to 105 brake levers
6. upgrading to 105 rear derailleur
I was going to go for the lighter frame options (titanium seatpost and lighter front forks), but for about the same price I can go with the race hubs from velocity and save the same weight while getting a better ride. I want to upgrade the brakes because I will be using the bike with a Shareroller friction drive and supposedly the 105's have better stopping power. And I'm upgrading the rear derailleur because Claris isn't great.
This puts a size small frame 8 speed at about 18.75 pounds without seat but including my grip king pedals.
Do these upgrades seem like good choices or would you recommend a different option? I want the bike to be no more than 19 pounds with seat for me to be able to lift and carry it often.
1. Thomsen elite seatpost
2. Velocity aeroheat wheels
3. Velocity race hubs, front and rear
4. upgrading to 105 caliper brakes
5. upgrading to 105 brake levers
6. upgrading to 105 rear derailleur
I was going to go for the lighter frame options (titanium seatpost and lighter front forks), but for about the same price I can go with the race hubs from velocity and save the same weight while getting a better ride. I want to upgrade the brakes because I will be using the bike with a Shareroller friction drive and supposedly the 105's have better stopping power. And I'm upgrading the rear derailleur because Claris isn't great.
This puts a size small frame 8 speed at about 18.75 pounds without seat but including my grip king pedals.
Do these upgrades seem like good choices or would you recommend a different option? I want the bike to be no more than 19 pounds with seat for me to be able to lift and carry it often.
#2
Senior Member
I'm going standard with everything except upgrading to:
1. Thomsen elite seatpost
2. Velocity aeroheat wheels
3. Velocity race hubs, front and rear
4. upgrading to 105 caliper brakes
5. upgrading to 105 brake levers
6. upgrading to 105 rear derailleur
I was going to go for the lighter frame options (titanium seatpost and lighter front forks), but for about the same price I can go with the race hubs from velocity and save the same weight while getting a better ride. I want to upgrade the brakes because I will be using the bike with a Shareroller friction drive and supposedly the 105's have better stopping power. And I'm upgrading the rear derailleur because Claris isn't great.
This puts a size small frame 8 speed at about 18.75 pounds without seat but including my grip king pedals.
Do these upgrades seem like good choices or would you recommend a different option? I want the bike to be no more than 19 pounds with seat for me to be able to lift and carry it often.
1. Thomsen elite seatpost
2. Velocity aeroheat wheels
3. Velocity race hubs, front and rear
4. upgrading to 105 caliper brakes
5. upgrading to 105 brake levers
6. upgrading to 105 rear derailleur
I was going to go for the lighter frame options (titanium seatpost and lighter front forks), but for about the same price I can go with the race hubs from velocity and save the same weight while getting a better ride. I want to upgrade the brakes because I will be using the bike with a Shareroller friction drive and supposedly the 105's have better stopping power. And I'm upgrading the rear derailleur because Claris isn't great.
This puts a size small frame 8 speed at about 18.75 pounds without seat but including my grip king pedals.
Do these upgrades seem like good choices or would you recommend a different option? I want the bike to be no more than 19 pounds with seat for me to be able to lift and carry it often.
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Do they have the Capreo option and Chosen hubs?
Oops, that won't work with 11s...
Well, except I have the answer to that
Oops, that won't work with 11s...
Well, except I have the answer to that
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Nice. Previously you expressed concern about Kojaks' ability to resist punctures. Are you sticking with them? I wonder whether the pakiT can accommodate Marathon tires.
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I'm gonna start off with the kojaks because they are almost half the weight of marathon plus. Will see how it goes.
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#9
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I've been running marathon racers and regular marathons on my NWT and what I have noticed is that the spaces between the tread bumps (don't know if they have an actual name) are where glass tends to get caught and then it works in to the tire if I don't catch it quickly enough. Now I'm in the habit every time I stop of quickly rotating the wheels and looking. I'm wondering if the smooth kojaks actually might pick up less stuff; that would be nice.
#10
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I'd be interested to hear how that goes, the debris-pick-up-ability of grooved tires drives me crazy. The Fatty Rumpkins with Kevlar strip on my Rivendell Clem have big circles that don't hold onto stuff, which seems a better idea for commuter tires.
#11
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I hate Marathon+ and am using Marathon Greens on my winter Brompton - those last forever and I never had a puncture with them yet. But they are heavier and noticeably slower than the Kojak. Just too much drag. Plus mounting them is a pain.
On my day-to-day-Brompton I am therefor using Brompton Kevelars - to me they seem to be the best compromise regarding speed, weight and punctures. After a couple of years they tend to disintegrate, especially at the rear wheel where there might be oil involved and then the punctures start. Therefore they have a limited lifespan, independend from the thread (at least this was the case with the Brompton greens, last generation before the current Kevelars). They collect broken glass of a certain, small size in the thread and this works it's way through the tire. So this is a weak point.
It is worth noticing that Brompton has discontinued the Kevelar and is switching to Schwalbe Marathon Racer as their new standard tire in 2018. The Racer has not been available in 349 until now. Hopefully it is a good choice - it had an overhaul for 2017, so most of the common critics on this tire should be invalid now. I am running the current version on a 20" folder and until now am very pleased with it (plus no punctures yet).
Of the stock tires for the Packit I'd therefor possibly go for the Primo Komet - never had one personally but it seems to be a decent tire. Other than that I'd possibly consider the Scorcher. Again no own experience but from what I've heard very fast and very comfy at the same time. A bit expensive though and possibly not the best in the wet.
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Interesting how few instances the Primo Comet is mentioned. It is my favourite after going through Kojaks, Marathon Racers and Plus, and others. I have had very few punctures and its is slick, has a tested low rolling resistance and... And I've run out of positives. Oh they come in Kevlar belted for puncture resistance with reflective sidewall but are almost impossible to get in Australia.
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Colour is not onluy about how they look. I have a white folder that i like, but all the tiny scratches in the paint collect dirt so it does not look good close up. This is easyer with darker colours. I am "haunted" by red bikes for some reason, that is the price you pay when buying second hand, you take the colour you get.
I remember first time I looked at the matte black edition Bromptons in Copenhagen. I LOVED The black/orange one, and I am not into orange at all- maybe apart from oranges...
#14
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Interesting how few instances the Primo Comet is mentioned. It is my favourite after going through Kojaks, Marathon Racers and Plus, and others. I have had very few punctures and its is slick, has a tested low rolling resistance and... And I've run out of positives. Oh they come in Kevlar belted for puncture resistance with reflective sidewall but are almost impossible to get in Australia.
In 349, my favorite tire is easily the Greenspeed Scorcher. It fits nicely on the tikit. Although the caliper brakes suggests that it won't fit on the Pakit.
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So do you guys think the Comet is better in terms of flats than the kojak? They're both very light. I tend to not ride in rain much so that's not a big deal. Also - Jur - which one do you think is better for the Shareroller? Planning ahead...ahead...ahead.
The racers are good but I've had flats with them, too. The regular marathon has been more puncture resistant for me than the racer. One reason I got the chain drive - patching a flat is super easy (I usually just swap the tube and then patch the bad one when I get home). The swap takes less than 3 minutes.
The racers are good but I've had flats with them, too. The regular marathon has been more puncture resistant for me than the racer. One reason I got the chain drive - patching a flat is super easy (I usually just swap the tube and then patch the bad one when I get home). The swap takes less than 3 minutes.
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So that is two (me and your son) for black... If you use the "happy colours" on stuff that is not lasting forever (housing bags chlotes and so on) it is easyer to change the "style" later- if you want of course.
Colour is not onluy about how they look. I have a white folder that i like, but all the tiny scratches in the paint collect dirt so it does not look good close up. This is easyer with darker colours. I am "haunted" by red bikes for some reason, that is the price you pay when buying second hand, you take the colour you get.
I remember first time I looked at the matte black edition Bromptons in Copenhagen. I LOVED The black/orange one, and I am not into orange at all- maybe apart from oranges...
Colour is not onluy about how they look. I have a white folder that i like, but all the tiny scratches in the paint collect dirt so it does not look good close up. This is easyer with darker colours. I am "haunted" by red bikes for some reason, that is the price you pay when buying second hand, you take the colour you get.
I remember first time I looked at the matte black edition Bromptons in Copenhagen. I LOVED The black/orange one, and I am not into orange at all- maybe apart from oranges...
The black/orange brompton is gorgeous - but the brommies have about half and half when colored. For some reason, the pakiT rear triangle and fork kind of disappear rather than balance the color of the frame the way the brompton does. Probably because of the size imbalance in width of tubing.
Choosing parts was hard but at least there was a reason for each choice. With color it is purely subjective so it's even harder, lol.
#17
Part-time epistemologist
How and where you ride is a meaningful predictor of flats, IME. I'm going on a few years without a flat now.
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#18
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So you are opting for drop bars & Brifters, wont fold as well with those bars, of course..
Maybe you have esoteric bike shops in the IT dominated Bay Area.. thsat are experienced with the Velocity house brand hubs
here, I'd stick with More common 105 hubs from Shimano, rather than ;
Due to world wide spare parts availability and most bike shops are familiar with servicing them.
Bike Friday for 349-16" wheels uses a 24 spoke rim, on my bike its Sun CR18.. rear hub 36 hole..
but they have experience at wheelbuilding using skip hole spoke pattern lacing ..
you may be able to get them to use a 28 hole hub and rim.. 4 spokes dont weigh that much more..
more = stronger wheel ..
* But I note they offer a Sram/Shimano Cassette driver.. IDK if its Steel, for durability or light alloy to cut grams.
https://www.velocityusa.com/product/hubs/race-rear-hub
they use a 100mm fork ?, or the more folding bike typical narrower 74mm the Velocity, hub may not be offered in 74,
but they likely have a high quality 24 hole cartridge bearing 74mm hub, if not Phil Wood , San Jose, does.
....
Maybe you have esoteric bike shops in the IT dominated Bay Area.. thsat are experienced with the Velocity house brand hubs
here, I'd stick with More common 105 hubs from Shimano, rather than ;
Velocity race hubs, front and rear,
Bike Friday for 349-16" wheels uses a 24 spoke rim, on my bike its Sun CR18.. rear hub 36 hole..
but they have experience at wheelbuilding using skip hole spoke pattern lacing ..
you may be able to get them to use a 28 hole hub and rim.. 4 spokes dont weigh that much more..
more = stronger wheel ..
* But I note they offer a Sram/Shimano Cassette driver.. IDK if its Steel, for durability or light alloy to cut grams.
https://www.velocityusa.com/product/hubs/race-rear-hub
they use a 100mm fork ?, or the more folding bike typical narrower 74mm the Velocity, hub may not be offered in 74,
but they likely have a high quality 24 hole cartridge bearing 74mm hub, if not Phil Wood , San Jose, does.
....
Last edited by fietsbob; 10-31-17 at 02:10 PM.
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Maybe you have esoteric bike shops in the IT dominated Bay Area.. thsat are experienced with the Velocity house brand hubs
here, I'd stick with More common 105 hubs from Shimano, rather than ;
Due to world wide spare parts availability and most bike shops are familiar with servicing them.
Bike Friday for 349-16" wheels uses a 24 spoke rim, on my bike its Sun CR18.. rear hub 36 hole..
but they have experience at wheelbuilding using skip hole spoke pattern lacing ..
you may be able to get them to use a 28 hole hub and rim.. 4 spokes dont weigh that much more..
more = stronger wheel ..
* But I note they offer a Sram/Shimano Cassette driver.. IDK if its Steel, for durability or light alloy to cut grams.
Velocity Wheels - Hand Made in USA
they use a 100mm fork ?, or the more folding bike typical narrower 74mm the Velocity, hub may not be offered in 74,
but they likely have a high quality 24 hole cartridge bearing 74mm hub, if not Phil Wood , San Jose, does.
....
here, I'd stick with More common 105 hubs from Shimano, rather than ;
Due to world wide spare parts availability and most bike shops are familiar with servicing them.
Bike Friday for 349-16" wheels uses a 24 spoke rim, on my bike its Sun CR18.. rear hub 36 hole..
but they have experience at wheelbuilding using skip hole spoke pattern lacing ..
you may be able to get them to use a 28 hole hub and rim.. 4 spokes dont weigh that much more..
more = stronger wheel ..
* But I note they offer a Sram/Shimano Cassette driver.. IDK if its Steel, for durability or light alloy to cut grams.
Velocity Wheels - Hand Made in USA
they use a 100mm fork ?, or the more folding bike typical narrower 74mm the Velocity, hub may not be offered in 74,
but they likely have a high quality 24 hole cartridge bearing 74mm hub, if not Phil Wood , San Jose, does.
....
24 spokes will be fine for me, i weight 135lbs. AFAIK hubs are hubs in terms of servicing them? I won't be taking the bike out of the U.S. so not too worried about parts. My son has velocity hubs on his commuter and he's had no problem getting them serviced at several shops during tuneups.
#20
Banned
I'm a mechanic, Here we see bike tourists who have exotic parts, they're screwed if they break ,
because they have to wait for days to get the replacements special ordered and shipped in..
But as the town increasingly , has a tourist economy hotel/motel rooms and food and drink places are abundant.
.....
because they have to wait for days to get the replacements special ordered and shipped in..
But as the town increasingly , has a tourist economy hotel/motel rooms and food and drink places are abundant.
.....
#21
Senior Member
Maybe you have esoteric bike shops in the IT dominated Bay Area.. thsat are experienced with the Velocity house brand hubs
here, I'd stick with More common 105 hubs from Shimano, rather than ;
Due to world wide spare parts availability and most bike shops are familiar with servicing them.
Bike Friday for 349-16" wheels uses a 24 spoke rim, on my bike its Sun CR18.. rear hub 36 hole..
but they have experience at wheelbuilding using skip hole spoke pattern lacing ..
you may be able to get them to use a 28 hole hub and rim.. 4 spokes dont weigh that much more..
more = stronger wheel ..
here, I'd stick with More common 105 hubs from Shimano, rather than ;
Due to world wide spare parts availability and most bike shops are familiar with servicing them.
Bike Friday for 349-16" wheels uses a 24 spoke rim, on my bike its Sun CR18.. rear hub 36 hole..
but they have experience at wheelbuilding using skip hole spoke pattern lacing ..
you may be able to get them to use a 28 hole hub and rim.. 4 spokes dont weigh that much more..
more = stronger wheel ..
More spokes equals stronger wheel is true, but 36 or even 32 spokes with a 349 wheel smells like over-engineering as smaller wheels are stronger out of the box anyway.
I would neither consider velocity very exotic nor expect the hubs to need service any time soon, let alone needing replacement parts. And if you try to get hold of spare parts for aged Shimano components you might face an ugly surprise... If the velocity hubs offer a noticable advantage over Shimano hubs might be a different discussion.
#22
Senior Member
So do you guys think the Comet is better in terms of flats than the kojak? They're both very light. I tend to not ride in rain much so that's not a big deal. Also - Jur - which one do you think is better for the Shareroller? Planning ahead...ahead...ahead.
The racers are good but I've had flats with them, too. The regular marathon has been more puncture resistant for me than the racer. One reason I got the chain drive - patching a flat is super easy (I usually just swap the tube and then patch the bad one when I get home). The swap takes less than 3 minutes.
The racers are good but I've had flats with them, too. The regular marathon has been more puncture resistant for me than the racer. One reason I got the chain drive - patching a flat is super easy (I usually just swap the tube and then patch the bad one when I get home). The swap takes less than 3 minutes.
Regarding the Comet it is fairly difficult to get hold of it in Europe and if you manage to it is expensive whereas the Kojak is common and cheap. Therefor no personal experience. I've been running the Kojak in 507 for a while (where it needs less pressure) and had no issues with road use. Same Kojak in 349 needs much more pressure and is very sensitive to punctures. Rumors say that the Comet high-pressure tire was the blueprint for developing the Brompton branded tires at the end of the 90ies as it was so much better than the oldschool Raleigh tires they were using at that time. I'd assume the Comet to be less problematic in regards of punctures than the Kojak but have no evidence though.
#23
Banned
Comet through our LBS, is cheaper than the Kojak .. Do try and get more than the 2 tires that come on the bike , and some extra tubes too..
Want puncture resistance the tires are heavier.. Schwalbe Dropped the Marathon K so now you have a blue or green guard in the tire outside the casing , & black tread rubber is less thick as a result.
We @ bike shops get repair parts, to keep customers old bikes working, from our sources , the more trend driven online sellers don't bother to carry any more..
I have a 24 hole 349 Tikit, a 28 hole Brompton, and a 32 hole 406 wheel Pocket Llama .....
on my loaded 700c camp-tour bike it got a 40/48 spoke wheel set nicely reliable ..
....
Want puncture resistance the tires are heavier.. Schwalbe Dropped the Marathon K so now you have a blue or green guard in the tire outside the casing , & black tread rubber is less thick as a result.
We @ bike shops get repair parts, to keep customers old bikes working, from our sources , the more trend driven online sellers don't bother to carry any more..
I have a 24 hole 349 Tikit, a 28 hole Brompton, and a 32 hole 406 wheel Pocket Llama .....
on my loaded 700c camp-tour bike it got a 40/48 spoke wheel set nicely reliable ..
....
Last edited by fietsbob; 10-31-17 at 02:07 PM.
#24
Part-time epistemologist
24 spokes will be fine for me, i weight 135lbs. AFAIK hubs are hubs in terms of servicing them? I won't be taking the bike out of the U.S. so not too worried about parts. My son has velocity hubs on his commuter and he's had no problem getting them serviced at several shops during tuneups.
EDIT: I've been riding them for years now. I've never had to true them.
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#25
Banned
& i just put Comet tires on my Tikit rims it was not difficult I use 2 VAR tire jack tools on tight installs .
I can get the bell Silca Head of my floor pump on more easily with the 24 hole rim, the thumb lock schrader is easier in the 28 hole..
I can get the bell Silca Head of my floor pump on more easily with the 24 hole rim, the thumb lock schrader is easier in the 28 hole..