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Disc brake works too well.

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Disc brake works too well.

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Old 05-04-18, 07:12 PM
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fietsbob 
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Disc brake works too well.

BB7 MTB & speed dial levers has too much stopping power at my pedestrian speeds , disc 160-20" wheel

taking suggestions for softer more easily modulated calipers for the front .

injured myself by stopping abruptly and falling over..

fractured a wrist bone a bit..

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Old 05-04-18, 09:31 PM
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Abu Mahendra
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
BB7 MTB & speed dial levers has too much stopping power at my pedestrian speeds , disc 160-20" wheel

taking suggestions for softer more easily modulated calipers for the front .

injured myself by stopping abruptly and falling over..
sorry to hear about your injuries, bob...

Which Avid speed dials are you running? I have the speed dial 7 which allow via a turn knob for setting the modulation level. I set the back to zero modulation, and the front to max modulation for the similat reasons.
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Old 05-04-18, 10:09 PM
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different pads can change the power curve enough to help, look at the metallic pads.

smaller rotor as well.

running compression-less housing i assume? may be worthwhile to replace with regular coil.

maybe work on the software side of it as well, practice a bit.

good luck.
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Old 05-04-18, 10:52 PM
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Reckon it's the levers you need to adjust, BB7s are about as soggy as you'll get.
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Old 05-04-18, 11:03 PM
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Upgrade to Shimano hydraulics.
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Old 05-05-18, 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
BB7 MTB & speed dial levers has too much stopping power at my pedestrian speeds , disc 160-20" wheel

taking suggestions for softer more easily modulated calipers for the front .

injured myself by stopping abruptly and falling over..
Sorry to hear you fell. Finishing my trike today (new drivetrain) to avoid just that, especially in the winter. Hope there is no permanent damage
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Old 05-05-18, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by wgscott View Post
Upgrade to Shimano hydraulics.
you can modulate them to come on softly?

even on a wheel with the disc 1:3.2 to the wheel size ?
140 would be 1:3.6

I was thinking: TRP HyRd, and change to a shorter pull cantilever lever..

the locking knob on those for setup, will allow the swing of the actuating lever so be late coming on...
with cable slack in the scheme


...

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Old 05-05-18, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by badmother View Post
Sorry to hear you fell. Finishing my trike today (new drivetrain) to avoid just that, especially in the winter. Hope there is no permanent damage
Just will take longer at 70 than 35..

My (thanks to local climate) rarely needed studded tire MTB has easily modulated drum brakes, and 26" wheels..

Im slow as it is, problem was no momentum all of a sudden, but Newtonian physics is a constant..



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Old 05-06-18, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
you can modulate them to come on softly?
Yes. That is how they work (by default). I'm not following the ratio, but I use 160mm front and back on 700c rims as well as 27.5 rims on a mountain bike (the XT calipers are the same as the Ultegra). Also, the organic pads give you more modulation.

I was thinking: TRP HyRd, and change to a shorter pull cantilever lever..
That would make the most sense if you want/need to keep your current brake levers. But full hydraulic TRPs work much better (and similar to Shimano, in my experience).
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Old 05-08-18, 06:08 PM
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Yes But I.m using a 20" wheel not a 650b, 26 or 29er I have a 26 but its not so step thru easy..

High 11.5" BB is part of the problem, in town.. even tippy toe ,
I just hit air, from the saddle..
unplanned fast stop, I did not shift my weight to the bottom pedal first, to step off.


..




...

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Old 05-10-18, 04:43 PM
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I suspect hydraulics might be more powerful than cable brakes since there is no cable stretch losses. Maybe HYRDs are also more powerful than BB7s since its partial hydro? Although hydros are known to offer better modulation, if its a panic stop then they should flip a rider or break tire traction faster. Without riding identical frames with both systems its hard to really know what is better in a panic situation. Smaller rotors and less grabby (harder?) pads would be my armchair engineering suggestion since they should reduce overall effectiveness. Think opposite of other forum threads looking for more braking power.
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