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My FSIR Spin 3.0

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Old 09-02-18, 06:24 PM
  #26  
Abu Mahendra
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Bikes: In service - FSIR Spin 3.0, Bannard Sunny minivelo, Dahon Dash Altena folder. Several others in construction or temporarily decommissioned.

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On Café Touring duty this morning...
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Old 10-07-18, 05:29 AM
  #27  
tomtomtom123
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I was thinking that maybe it's possible to add a front derailleur to the spin 3. If this image is correct with 52t the chain is almost at the level of the clamp so the derailleur mechanic should clear just above the clamp. If you take a derailleur and press it against the seatpost you can tell if it will.
you would just need to 3d print your own braze on bracket to go on the lite pro clamp like i did with my dahon vigor.
although I am not sure about clearance with the rack stay braze on.
You could then put on 53/33t 110bcd double with chain catcher and 30/11t cassette for 438% range.
your 36/11 is 327%.
I have the Shimano 4700 GS Rd on 520mm tire on 406 rim with 30t Max cog and have 40-45mm ground clearance to the lower pulley. Is the spin 3 with 305 rim or 349?
With 10 speed double I can only use up to 7th gear on inner chainring so technically you only need 36t capacity if you allow chain slack and ignore gears 8-10. Then maybe you could use the SS Rd but it has 33t capacity. Sram mid cage length is in between ss and GS, so it might work better.
my vigor has 46/26t with 30/11 for 482%. I'm thinking of changing to 44/24 and 32/11 for 533%.
the 30/11 is custom arranged 11,12,13,14,15,17,19,21,24,30 with a big 6t jump between the largest cogs. I bought an older cs4600 cassette and a 11 and 12 cog for hg500 and they shift fine. You can also use 2 pairs of hg500 to get the cogs that you want.
20t chainring jump is the max I tried and it works ok. Larger jumps may not shift well. 33t is the smallest on 110bcd which leaves you with 53t. But you might be able to push to 54t.

Last edited by tomtomtom123; 10-07-18 at 05:47 AM.
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Old 10-07-18, 06:13 AM
  #28  
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If your rim is 305 then Schwalbe has just the marathon 1.75 or big Apple 2.0 for wide tires. The Green guard on the marathon works really well against punctures but I did start getting some after 2 years. Big Apple is more comfortable but I did occasionally get punctures on City roads from nails and Staples.

Oh after looking closer, a braze on clamp might overlap the slit in the seat tube.

Last edited by tomtomtom123; 10-07-18 at 06:27 AM.
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Old 10-07-18, 10:04 AM
  #29  
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Something like this might work for the front derailleur. I made a quick 3D model. It would screw into the rack braze-on. A cutback on the lower part to get around the seat tube clamp. I forgot to model the cable stop, but it could be integrated to the rear of the right part, to pass the cable behind the rack braze-on.

(If the slit in the seat tube goes all the down to the BB) The screw connecting the 2 parts at the front would only be tightened so that the parts touch the seat tube snugly, not so much that it starts to compress the seat tube because that would affect the ability of the seat post to slide in smoothly. Instead, a small amount of 2-component epoxy could be applied between the front edges of the 2 parts and the seat tube to remove any vertical rotational play.

This would have to be 3D printed in aluminum, but it's expensive and having 2 separate parts would make it cost more. My braze-on adapter was printed in stainless steel-bronze which is half the price as aluminum.


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Old 10-08-18, 04:56 PM
  #30  
splithub
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As far as i understand - but cannot speak for the Spin 3.0, have a 2.0 and a 5.1, there is one big flaw against a front derailleur setup. There is no space behind the chainring for a second because of the two parallel extended chainstays, a second had to be in the exact place where the original is, which would mess up the the chain line, BB and cranks had to be replaced - cranks because it is almost impossible to find chainrings in BCD 144 and 3/32 or 11/128 width. The longer BB spindle and the replacement crank would increase the Q factor dramatically since the original crank is excellently narrow. It wouldn't feel like the same bike after.
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Old 10-10-18, 07:04 AM
  #31  
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Is there really zero clearance between the single chainring and the right chainstay?
Do you know the chainline on your spin 2/5?

On my Dahon I have built a double with chainline at around 44.5mm, and a gap between chainrings of 7.8-8mm.

With 305 rim, I would use 50/30t (110/80 BCD) with the FSA Tempo Adventure, it has 148 q-factor. Or 53/33t (110 BCD) with any standard 110 BCD crank. The Shimano 5750 has 146 q-factor.



Hmmm after looking at the chain, perhaps it would rub on the chainstay with a 30t chainring.

Last edited by tomtomtom123; 10-10-18 at 08:58 AM.
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Old 10-11-18, 05:05 AM
  #32  
splithub
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Originally Posted by tomtomtom123 View Post
Is there really zero clearance between the single chainring and the right chainstay?
Do you know the chainline on your spin 2/5?
39mm on the 2.0, Q = 129, stock condition
45mm on 5.1, Q = 138, self build up
those funny less-than-1mm clearances you can find all over the 2.0, which is straightforward philosophy to it, no room for customization at some key points. I guess the same for the 3.0


Spin 2.0


Spin 5.1
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Old 10-11-18, 06:13 AM
  #33  
splithub
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..just spotted one good example in the upper picture for messing up the stock precision of these bikes, necessary for the rotational fold, by customizing them at some sensible spots. I wanted BigApple tires, brake arms were too short for, mounted longer ones, now there is no room left for proper cable routing - it is fold related, there is no alternative route.
The lower picture is nothing stock, i built the bike with mostly leftover parts. The spindle length is 118 and fits the chain line by chance, the 3.0 is for sure narrower without disc brakes and with that stock dished chainring as seen on the 2.0

Last edited by splithub; 10-11-18 at 07:56 AM.
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