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Show me your Raleigh 20?

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Show me your Raleigh 20?

Old 05-17-23, 01:41 AM
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Originally Posted by tds101
This is in the USA, not UK. Pricing is different across the pond. Still, the owner stated the $$$ was negotiable. 🤷‍♂️
Agreed!
Pricing remains relative and proportional.
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Old 05-17-23, 04:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Cyclespanner
Agreed!
Pricing remains relative and proportional.
People here try to get higher prices, but a knowledgeable individual can get a good deal with this. They wanted to negotiate, but I stated I wasn't going to purchase it. Too involved for me. LoL!
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Old 06-08-23, 01:16 PM
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locking bolt for hinge mechanism?

Hi All!
I'm having trouble posting on this site, but it's my first bike forum foray, so I'll try again...
I just picked up a twenty from a friend. seems to be in mint condition, apart from the locking bolt, which someone replaced with a strait Hex-headed through-threaded bolt. After visiting the Sheldon Brown page, I sorta but not really understand how the bolt works, and there is a suggestion of how to machine the part yourself, and this leads to my questions:
--Has anyone machined the bolt successfully?
--Is there anywhere to buy one, used or NOS?
--Has anyone found good alternate solutions to the original bolt set-up?
The bike is perfectly rideable as is, but folding is its raison d'Ítre, and I don't want to rob it of its potential...
Any help would be greatly appreciated...
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Old 06-08-23, 01:17 PM
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another thing

Addendum to above: I tried posting fotos of the bike, but the forum won't let me do it yet...still a newbie!
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Old 06-09-23, 08:54 AM
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Canít say I have ever heard or seen one machined for replacement. Iím sure itís possible but the cost?

If you ask around, someone might have an extra bolt and nut that was original to the Raleigh.

keep us posted and after 10, pics can happen.
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Old 06-09-23, 09:09 AM
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Denkoz here;s one for sale in UK.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165778055416
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Old 06-09-23, 01:03 PM
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Thanks a million! I'm buying it right now.
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Old 06-09-23, 01:03 PM
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...and thanks to you as well, 3speedslow!
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Old 06-09-23, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by denkoz20
Hi All!
I'm having trouble posting on this site, but it's my first bike forum foray, so I'll try again...
I just picked up a twenty from a friend. seems to be in mint condition, apart from the locking bolt, which someone replaced with a strait Hex-headed through-threaded bolt. After visiting the Sheldon Brown page, I sorta but not really understand how the bolt works, and there is a suggestion of how to machine the part yourself, and this leads to my questions:
--Has anyone machined the bolt successfully?
--Is there anywhere to buy one, used or NOS?
--Has anyone found good alternate solutions to the original bolt set-up?
The bike is perfectly rideable as is, but folding is its raison d'Ítre, and I don't want to rob it of its potential...
Any help would be greatly appreciated...
Great! Glad I could help. Post photo's when you can. Good luck with your bike.
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Old 06-10-23, 08:54 AM
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You are very Welcome!

Welcome to BF and the R20 club!
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Old 06-10-23, 10:20 AM
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One does not have to machine the bolt, per-se, you only need to stick the bolt into a drill then file off about 15mm of thread towards the head of the bolt. You just need to carry a wrench to loosen/tighten the bolt when you want to fold it up.
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Old 06-10-23, 11:20 AM
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It's worth mentioning.....the 20's were designed using Imperial measurements (feet 'n inches).
So using a regular foot rule you'll find everything drops into place.
It isn't a metric machine in any way, though US and other markets did get the dimensionally smaller 'metric 15inch' rims and tyres!
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Old 06-11-23, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by PhilFo
One does not have to machine the bolt, per-se, you only need to stick the bolt into a drill then file off about 15mm of thread towards the head of the bolt. You just need to carry a wrench to loosen/tighten the bolt when you want to fold it up.
Thanks, PhilFo. I've ordered the original key from eBay, but may mess with the bolt that's in the bike now and see if I can get it to work as an experiment...just need to find a drill that will accommodate the head of the bolt.
Another question: is there an easy way to determine how old the Twenty is?
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Old 06-11-23, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by denkoz20
Another question: is there an easy way to determine how old the Twenty is?
You can get a close approximation by finding the year stamped on Sturmey-Archer rear hub. Year, just two numbers, then space and the month. While this is the date of just the hub, it should be close.
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Old 06-11-23, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Schwinnsta
You can get a close approximation by finding the year stamped on Sturmey-Archer rear hub. Year, just two numbers, then space and the month. While this is the date of just the hub, it should be close.
That's true, Raleigh bought the hubs in when required for production.
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Old 06-11-23, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by PhilFo
One does not have to machine the bolt, per-se, you only need to stick the bolt into a drill then file off about 15mm of thread towards the head of the bolt. You just need to carry a wrench to loosen/tighten the bolt when you want to fold it up.
Just weld an Allen key to the bolt....instant handle/lever for it!
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Old 06-25-23, 11:57 AM
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Here's my green R20 from probably 1971, according to the Sturmey AW that came on the bike. What's left which is original are the frame, fork, mudguards, and bottom bracket. This bike came to me already a bit of a project, so I really went for it.











Next thing to go will be the chrome mudguards. I like them, but for riding, I really want a set of newer, lighter ones, so I'll be adding a set of Blumels sometime this week. Need to find some P-clamps to attach the stays to the fork.
The Redshift stem is a great addition to the bike and really helps with fatigue. I had a 3 speed on this prior and have taken a few 20 mile rides, and didn't experience the harsh vibration that the other R20 we have gives.
The Sturmey RXL-RD5 is a finicky beast. I've found that it's quite sensitive to chain tension, and likes to be ever so slightly looser than how I'm used to setting up an AW. If it's just a smidge too tight, it will automatically shift from 3 to 5 or 4 to 5. This happened the other night when on a test ride and I was not putting much force into the pedals, so I think I'm still good to go. Today's ride of a few miles gave me no bad noises, no auto-shifting, it was great. I set it up with a 20 tooth cog paired with my 46 tooth Williams ring and crankset, it will give a good spread of gears for my commute. I have a ~3 mile climb from the Schuylkill River up to my work in Germantown, Philly.
The bike is already heavy but I'm thinking of adding an Abus cafe lock so I could fold it up, wrap it around a pole, and secure it with the heavy chain compatible with the Abus. We'll see if I'm really up for that when I get the new mudguards on.
Both of the Twentys we have are fantastic bikes and ride so well, that I just want more excuses to use them.
Happy riding all, stay cool and hydrated.

Last edited by PhilFo; 06-25-23 at 06:22 PM.
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Old 06-25-23, 04:31 PM
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got the key!

On a trip to London, could pick up the locking bolt, and now I just need to fly back to the states, post another couple of times, and can show some pics of the twenty--she's not bad for an old girl! thanks again for the ebay link!
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Old 06-25-23, 05:06 PM
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Another satisfied pal
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Old 06-26-23, 12:30 AM
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...another thing

Well, I suppose this is just a way to add a post so when I get back to the states and my new twenty I can post some pics, but I couldn't help noticing the difference in the top of the forks between different twenty models. my question is: is there a function to that odd, tubelike bit that many twenties (including mine) seem to have? Are these older models, and did that feature disappear later on? Thanks
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Old 06-26-23, 02:52 AM
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Originally Posted by denkoz20
Well, I suppose this is just a way to add a post so when I get back to the states and my new twenty I can post some pics, but I couldn't help noticing the difference in the top of the forks between different twenty models. my question is: is there a function to that odd, tubelike bit that many twenties (including mine) seem to have? Are these older models, and did that feature disappear later on? Thanks
What 'tubelike bit' are you referring to?
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Old 06-26-23, 05:21 AM
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It's just one way to build a fork crown that Raleigh used for many years.
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Old 06-26-23, 07:14 AM
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denkoz20, do you mean the nylon top bush/bearing?
If so, that was common to ALL RSW/20models and the derivatives.
It was designed to act as a steering damper to eliminate front wheel shimmies.
As it was used for years, then Raleigh must have been happy with its function.
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Old 06-26-23, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Cyclespanner
What 'tubelike bit' are you referring to?
Since I can't post a photo yet, I mean the part of the fork most clearly seen in the third of PhilFo's pictures...right above the fender--it's round in profile. PhilFo has also kindly replied, calling it a fork crown. I can't refer directly to my Twenty, as she's some 6000 miles away, but I notice some of the bikes depicted here and elsewhere are without this particular feature.
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Old 06-26-23, 10:51 AM
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Ah! I see what you mean.

See my post #67, my 4 20's are none folders and don't have the same crown as PhilFo's example.

A quick search indicates that one was fitted to the folders. Never noticed the difference before.

My Triumph is an early one; the seat post clamp was part of the frame, not a separate fitting.
It also has a 'swan neck' steering column, where the later ones were straight.
The later U-frame 20's reverted to the 'swan neck'.
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