DIY Dahon Brace Latch...SUCCESS!
 

I bought a well-used 1989 Dahon Getaway V 16" folder for $50 that was missing the button/latch that connects the old style brace and steering mast together. Three plumbing parts totaling $20 and the bike is rideable!

The brace is threaded and looks like it should accept a 1/2 SAE bolt...but the braces threads are too fine. So I looked in the plumbing section and found this 1/4 Nipple which threaded in perfectly snug and secure.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1485bc623f.jpg

I don't understand the sizing protocol...but THIS FIT!
plus the unthreaded band in the middle means that the brace and the plate on the steering tube don't rub against each other.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8574fc2e2d.jpg

I threaded the 1/4 nipple into the bottom of the bracket:

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b00b88b9b3.jpg

It then fits into the top of the steering tube plate:

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4cfe70e115.jpg

I then threaded on the end cap:

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1407760e56.jpg

Finger tightening is just enough. Too tight and the steering is difficult. Although, not necessary, I then put an end cap on the top, just for extra security.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6e8b37e60e.jpg

When undoing the connection to fold the bike, I screw the cap back on the threads:

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ec454e1652.jpg

The fact that the threaded shaft (or "nipple") threads into the brace means the only looseness or play, would be in the steering mast plate...but when finger tightened there is no play to be felt!!! It is remarkably solid.

Because the original spring/button latch is hard to find, I wanted to share my DIY success with anyone in need of a solution!

I've been out for a couple of rides around the neighborhood and all seems good with the brace. I've sorted out the gears and brakes and removed the broken front fender; the rear was already gone.

Eventually I will replace the fenders, add a front rim brake, and possible replace the rear drum with a rear caliper brake, replace the rear 14/28 gears with an 11/28 or 11/32 for higher gearing and possibly replace the handle bars with something more like bull bars without compromising the fold.

If you have any questions you can message me through Bike Forums or better yet quote me BobbyG so that I get an email alert.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f6d5f2f65b.jpg

Wow that looks dangerous. Good luck.

How does that look "dangerous"? He did a fantastic job with it.

Rode to work and back yesterday, total time 80 minutes...the latch stayed tight.

Brass plumbing fixtures do not a structural component make...

​​​​​​ Maybe you need to look around at the DIY people in this forum and get off your high horse. There's nothing wrong with these mods.

I have ridden a couple old Dahons like this, and that part of the frame doesn't actually get much force on it. It holds the brace in place against the top of the steerer tube, and only has force on it when you pull back on the handlebars or are out of the saddle. Most of the time, there's a bit of forward pressure on the handlebars, and the hinge by the headset takes up most of the force. If you are careful, you can actually ride it without the brace connected... not that you should.

This is actually a little more secure than the original button latch, because they were easy to accidentally bump and disengage.

Not on any horse. Curious as to what happened to the original fastener, did it break , lost somehow ? That the brace is even necessary seems like an engineering afterthought. Commendable repair and quite creative I must say.

Apparently you're on a horse ride that you didn't see. Look at the bike, realize it's age, understand why the diy modification was performed. Then you'll understand what's going on without passing judgement. As a nOOb to the forums it shouldn't be that hard to research before posting an opinion that something is unsafe without knowing you might be incorrect. This is especially true, considering the member knows exactly what they're doing.

I strongly suggest your first upgrade be adding a front brake. I overheated the band brake on one of these bikes on a moderate hill, and I'm pretty light. You should also be able to install a rear caliper brake. I have a 3-speed Dahon of about the same age, and it uses a centerpull brake with a really long straddle cable. The brake is mounted above the chainstays, and the straddle cable goes all the way around the seat tube. You could probably use a similar setup, you would just need to find a place to mount a cable stop inside the front frame "triangle". I was never able to find a sidepull that worked on the rear, since it would have to fit between the crank arms.

Upgrading the gearing could be tricky. I've seen one with a 7-speed freewheel. Because the chainstays are short you couldn't actually use the outermost cog. The chainline was too extreme, and the chain would pop off of the front chainring. You might be able to get 7 speed to work if you shift the front sprocket outwards or re-dish the wheel, but getting anything with more speeds would be a stretch. If you try to use a freewheel with anything larger than a 28t cog, you may need to swap out the derailleur, which could cause derailleur ground clearance problems. An internally geared hub would be a good option, if you are up for building a wheel.

The 2nd thing I added was a front brake (see photo). The first was a kickstand. I also tried adding fenders and brought the bike to the co-op to help with making sure they would fit. I found a pair that were black anodized aluminum and the front fit, even with the brake, but the clearance was too tight under the fork crown and the tire would rub with any weight on the bike. I couldn't find a way to mount the rear. Besides the fenders, I picked up two brake levers (the original is worn and wobbly), one run of brake cable, a pair of blinkies, a rear kickstand and a six speed 13/28 rear freewheel all for $20 at the bike co-op...all used, or barely used except for the brake cable which was new. I already had some cable housings at home from the last project.

Having read about and personally experienced the ineffectiveness of Dahon's old band brakes, I planned on replacing the rear with a rim brake. Thanks for the tip I will use a center pull brake. However, for right now the rear band brakes works surprisingly well, and must have been refurbished at some point, because I have not encountered one on an old Dahon for sale that worked with any effectiveness.

I had thought about an internally geared hub, but wheel building is out of my realm of expertise, and the budget for this project won't allow for much more than used parts and me doing the work. If this bike with the upgraded gears is practical for commuting (It is currently too slow) then I may buy a new or newer 16-inch bike.

I also mounted an AIrZound Air horn like all my other commuters.

In the meantime, my next step is to clean and repack the rear hub, put on a new chain and install that 13/28 6 speed to see how that goes before getting the 11/28. Also, fenders that fit, if I am to use this bike for commuting.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...846923c1e8.jpg

Just my 2 cents, odd that you seem upset. I'm on here mostly for the entertainment, so thanks for adding to the fray. And yeah, very interesting that Dahon would use a cheap (in an engineering sense) latch as was described for something that looks like it's part of the frame.

Adding two wrong cents, and then acting like I'm upset is a bit childish. There's no sense in assuming something is dangerous, when there's multiple threads on this model where members here repair/restore/mod with hardware from local hardware and plumbing supply shops. I won't waste my time again,... enjoy the trolling. :deadhorse:

I did not like it either. Mainly because you need a wrench to fold the bike. Maybe the OP will come up with some kind of quick disconnect. Maybe if you already carry an adjustable wrench anyway, that will do.

I didn't think to ask the sellers, and the bike is not talking.

No wrench needed. Just finger tight. So far, so good.