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New 406 wheels for my minivelo

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New 406 wheels for my minivelo

Old 05-30-24, 12:37 PM
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New 406 wheels for my minivelo

Here is another improvement. I replaced the wheels with lighter 406 roadwheels. The Novatech rear hub can go up to a 10 speed but only installed an 8 speed Shimano Claris cassette. All where on sale so I went for it. The hubs where only available in red.



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Old 06-01-24, 12:02 AM
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I may have seen the identical wheelset the other day, tempting price, and I need new rims. But would be best to upgrade to discs.

Question, if you know? I see in set online now, options for 74 or 100mm front, 130 or 135 rear, 406 or 451, that I all understand. But I'm also seeing options for "2 bearing" or "4 bearing", the latter is higher cost; Do you know what that is?

I've seen some rear hubs that don't have a bolted-on freehub, but instead, cartridge bearings at both hub flanges, then two cartridge bearings for the freehub body, which is then held to the hub by quick-release force, and the ratchet is visible when freehub body removed from axle; Is that it? That's my guess but it would not apply to the front hub, my guess.

I would like a serviceable freehub body, but a bolted-on freehub is stronger I think for vertical loads, the axle loaded more in shear closer to the dropout, less bending moment.

Last edited by Duragrouch; 06-01-24 at 11:42 PM.
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Old 06-01-24, 09:07 AM
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These are all relevant questions. I decided to order them since replacing the existing wheels was easy to justify. The rear wheel was a heavy BMX rim with large spokes, very strong and heavy with a Shimano freehub. I had wheels made for my other minivelo which also has disk brakes. This bike is my everyday commuter so it doesn’t get the high price components. This new set has a front OLD 100 mm , rear 130 mm, just what Ineeded. The number of bearing refer (I think) to the number of sealed bearing per hub, 2 front, 4 rear. Novatech hubs have a decent reputation and made in Taiwan. My expectations are in line with the price cdn115$. Time will tell and I ll keep readers updated with my experience. On the other hand, they look nice.

Maybe Ron Damon can provide more info about Novatech hubs.

BTW, I removed the stickers on the wheels. They are thief magnets IMHO.

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Old 06-01-24, 10:12 AM
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Ron Damon Your expertise is requested please...
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Old 06-01-24, 05:43 PM
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Sorry, folks, no experience with Novatech hubs.
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Old 06-01-24, 11:51 PM
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I'm gonna take a guess that the 4 bearing rear hub has a freehub body that looks like the following; External (easily serviceable) ratchet, and its own bearings. I'm figuring that the matching hub to the ratchet, must have a steel ring tooth insert. Installed on the axle with the main hub, there would either be a specified axial play between the locknuts, or a specified axial preload for same. Note the hole size on this particular freehub; That's either for oversize thru-axles, or just larger diameter in that area, to equal the stiffness of a bolted freehub, before the axle necking down in diameter for QR dropouts.


Last edited by Duragrouch; 06-01-24 at 11:56 PM.
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Old 06-12-24, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Duragrouch
I may have seen the identical wheelset the other day, tempting price, and I need new rims. But would be best to upgrade to discs.

Question, if you know? I see in set online now, options for 74 or 100mm front, 130 or 135 rear, 406 or 451, that I all understand. But I'm also seeing options for "2 bearing" or "4 bearing", the latter is higher cost; Do you know what that is?

I've seen some rear hubs that don't have a bolted-on freehub, but instead, cartridge bearings at both hub flanges, then two cartridge bearings for the freehub body, which is then held to the hub by quick-release force, and the ratchet is visible when freehub body removed from axle; Is that it? That's my guess but it would not apply to the front hub, my guess.

I would like a serviceable freehub body, but a bolted-on freehub is stronger I think for vertical loads, the axle loaded more in shear closer to the dropout, less bending moment.
The freehub body is held tight by (usually some type of threaded) endcaps, not by QR alone. Sometimes the endcaps can be loose, in which case the freehub internals can be subject to dirt and damage.
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Old 06-12-24, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by tFUnK
The freehub body is held tight by (usually some type of threaded) endcaps, not by QR alone. Sometimes the endcaps can be loose, in which case the freehub internals can be subject to dirt and damage.
Thanks. It appears to be a design that is durable and serviceable.
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