Which tools needed for Downtube BB and Crank?
 

I am installing Shimano UN73 BB on both my Downtube's.
Which exact Park tools do I need to do that?
I know I need the BBT-2 Splined wrench to install the new BB, but
I need to know which crank puller and what tools I need to remove
the stock BB.
If Yan has the complete set he wants to loan for rountrip shipping let me know.
Thanks in advance.
Hbob

I am out of town, however I can have my tech guy send you all the tools you need.

Thanks,
Yan

Thanks much. Do you still have my address on files there, or should I wait for
contact by him?
Hbob

A week ago, I replaced the BB on the Downtube.

The hardest item to loosen is the lockring on the BB which requires a Park BB lockring tool which was hard to find. I went to over 5 bikeshop to buy one and none had it in stock. However, you can order one from the web for about US$10-15 depending on which brand you buy. Apparently, modern bike do not use this type of lockring on BB as such this tool is hard to find for retail to consumers. Although all bikeshop have this tool in their service department to service older bikes. (At least, that is what most mechanics told me.)

Yan offered to send the tool for me to loosen the lockring. In the end, my friendly neighborhood bikeshop loosen the lockring for me, no charge. And, I did the rest at home.

The crankset puller is about $10 (SpinDoctor). The Spin Doctor™ Cartridge Bottom Bracket Tool is about $8. You can buy these at performancebike.com. You will need to pay shipping and tax depending where you are.

Shipping these days is about $7 one way USPS priorty. ( I had to sent something just few days ago.)

Personally, for a slight marginal cost, I always opt to have tools around, just in case.

Hope my experience and info helps.

I will check out your sources before I have him ship them.
eBike.com has pretty low prices on the Park tools. Since I have several bikes to operate on it might pay
to have the tools.
Hbob.

If you no longer care about the old bottom bracket, then you can simply use a pair of channel locks on the lockring. The same goes for the adjustable (non-drive side) cup.

Remember that the fixed (drive side) cup is left-hand threaded. You might be able to carefully use an adjustable wrench on it. Alternatively, you can calmp the fixed cup in a vise, and turn the bike.

You'll still need the crank puller and the tool for the cups of the cartridge bottom bracket.

here is another one ...
use an adjustable wrench .... they tend to slip off... use a bolt and nut and big washer and put it through the axle hole with the big washer holding the wrench tight...

a little wd 40 or sumpin doesnt hurt either

thor

I just changed the BB on my new Downtube. To answer the OP's question for the record, here are the tools you will need:

1) Lockring spanner tool HCW5. It looks like this:
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ingspanner.jpg
I ordered mine from BikeNashbar for $13.50

2) BBT2 splined wrench. Looks like this:
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...nch/BN-BBT.gif
Nashbar has it for $4.95. Also, Performance has it in the basic toolkit they sell.

It was a pretty simple job with the tools. I would recommend doing it soon before the original BB gets rusted and cruddy. Makes a huge difference.

Good luck!

Edit: I should add that you should have the CWP-6C crank puller to remove the cranks. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ch/PT-CWP6.gif

The NB "Pro Tool Kit" has all the tools you need and more... and is often on sale in the $30 range. The tools are Taiwanese, so not Park quality, but they get the job done and you would get an entire tool kit for a little more than the price of a BB LR wrench and a crankpuller.

If there is a good lbs go there and ask to buy all the tools.

Make sure the crank puller is fully inserted or it will strip the cranks.

BTW, it might work out cheaper to have an LBS pull the old and install the new BB. My guess is that you may chuck the bike before the BB needs replacing again (Sealed BB last a long time). WHen you do replace the BB, they might have changed to a different incompatible style.

Maunakea: I was very confused in searching this forum for the right tools to do the BB swap. So I want to help make it clear to the next person.

If you mean the Pro Basic Tool Kit, I can't see the lockring spanner, which was very critical. It has the BBT2 tool and the crankpuller though.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...-PBTK-OPEN.gif
I had to purchase it separately.

If I'm mistaken about which kit you meant, I apologize.

Heh, heh, unless you have 8 bikes in the house like I do. :-)

SC, you're correct... I think I used large ViseGrips on the BB lockring. Basically, all I do with a BB lockring these days is dispose of it.

roll over the part of the bike that needs repair to see the tools required

http://www.parktool.com/repair/

I've been following this thread as I plan to switch the BB and possibly the cranks on my VIIIH and Mini DTs. While doing this mod, I'll likely change to a smaller chain ring on the VIIIH.

I've also searched the forum to see which BBs everyone is using in the mod.

So, I'm a little confused about the BB's and cranks and which is best for the application.

I don't need super bling but I do want parts that will survive a marine environment and hopefully not need to be replaced again during the normal life of the bike. So that means that I don't mind spending a couple of bucks for quality.

Having said that, what are your recommendations for the BB and crank replacement and please include if different tools are required to install those parts than the tools used to remove the stock DT BB / crank. (no, I didn't hijack the thread... see, that was a tool question).

Also, plase be as specific as possible with your recommendations - brand, model, size on both the replacement parts and the tools.

Thanks!!!

Just curious...what's the front chainline measurement on a DT, and what size bottom bracket is it spec'ed with?

For replacing with square tapered BB (for original cranks), the BB size is 68x115. This is what I used based on Yan's comments in the Downtube thread. Works well.

I also installed an FSA carbon crank 53/39 (no FD) using an ISIS BB size 68X108 per Manaukea's and Yan's approval. Works great also.

68x108 for a double chain ring crankset. English threaded.
68x115 for a single chain ring crankset. English threaded.

I know what you mean about these threads being confusing. There's so much information here (good thing & bad thing).

It's difficult to tell people what to buy because there's so much choice and we're all different consumers. However, if you want solid performance without bling I would go with the Shimano UN53, currently selling for $19.95 at Nashbar. http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...tom%20Brackets
size is 68X115. Tools are what I described above. Oh, be sure to have lots of good quality grease around.

I don't think there's an urgent reason to change the cranks, unless you just happen to have a carbon set lying around like I did :) . You can just change the chainring to whatever size you want. A hex wrench will do the trick for that.

In a marine environment, others have cautioned about checking the headset for proper cleaning and greasing also. I'm no expert there, although I plan to open mine up and do some preventive maintenace in the near future.

I just got my bikes and have been too busy upgrading them to ride them as they should be ridden. I'll be done today, though, and will post pictures after a good looong ride!!!

duplicate

I've been out prowling the other threads on BB replacement and have another question based on a multitude of preferences for lubrication when replacing a BB.

Some say grease (I assume something like axle grease) some say teflon and some say anti-sieze tread lube.

So what do my folder friends say? I have both axle grease and a so-called anti-sieze - moly-lube (MIL-T-83483) handy.

Is the objective to lubricate the entire assembly - like pack it full - or is it just to lubricate the threads for assembly?

As always... thanks

Shimano BBs are sealed. I think some Campy BBs are still loose bearings. For sealed BBs, the primary goal is antiseize, so put your fav lube on the BB threads. On loose bearings, you lube the bearings in the cup as well as the BB threads. Phil Wood. Honda high moly. Pedros. Mobil 1 syn. Lithium. all work. Obviously, you need your fav grease to lube loose bearings, but for the BB threads, not only anti-seize, but good grease works. I also smear the grease in into a sealed bearing... anything to ****** the entry of water and grime.

There's a great price for BBs at Nashbar right now. $4.99 for a square tapered sealed BB!
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...tom%20Brackets

If you were thinking about replacing it, now's the time to order the part!