2005 and 2006 had the smaller 34.9mm seat tube, the 2006 1/2 and 2007 FS bikes have the oversized tube.

Thanks,
Yan

Argh. I guess it's back to the drawing board.

Thanks Yan.

Yes... 34.9mm. Buy a used DT with the right seat tube if all you want is the frame.

Simple Simon, thanks. It's even more fun to ride than look at. I kid Yan that the MK bike planted the threadless headset DT seed in the garden of his product plans. IMMEDIATE DISCLAIMER. I know of no timeline, or even if, we will see a threadless headset DT from DT. Don't want to deluge Yan with email about "when can I buy it".

kb5gl:

Have you considered just manually shifting the front chainring? With a big 11X34 cassette in the back, there would be huuuge overlap between chainrings. Therefore, you would find yourself in one (probably the big one) in front a vast majority of the time. When you really need the other ring, just move it manually.

Would that work for you?

I'm doing that now. Of course I'm never happy ... must resist upgrade / modification urges...

;)

hi maunakea,

another silly question, well two actually

Where does the compression spacer go? also how is the start nut used?
i've researched on line about how star nuts are used in a normal set up, but what screws into the star nut here? it appears as if its just the handle post sleeve clamps and the cut off stem holding the lot together - where does the star nut come in to play?

hope you can help
Barney

barneybarney,

When the threadless headset is tensioned, the "steerer tube clamp" (aka hacksawed stem) is loose, like the stem on a regular bike with threadless headset during setup. Let's assume you've already inserted the star nut into the top of the steerer tube using a star nut tool.

The tubing is sold by Aircraft Spruce in increments of one foot. Most likely, a two-foot piece of larger diameter and a two-foot piece of smaller diameter, will be all the tubing you need. You have to be very clear when ordering (I recommend faxing your order with a picture), or Aircraft Spruce will send you two, one-foot pieces of each diameter of tubing. Not good.

You need to cut both pieces of tubing. I recommend using a steerer tube cutting tool to get a true cut. A cheap pipe cutting tool (round and round and round as you tighten the screw) will work, but you get a beveled cut. Your LBS will have a steerer tube cutting tool if you lack one.

First, you cut the larger diameter tubing based on bar height to make the sleevepost. The sleevepost is the larger diameter tubing that fits over the steerer tube at the inferior end and receives the handlebar "post" at the superior end. Depending on how high you want the handlebars, you can make a compression spacer out of the remnant of the 2 ft. piece of Al tubing you cut to make the "sleevepost". I happily discovered, after cutting the tubing for my sleevepost, that the tubing remnant was exactly the correct length for the compression spacer. Alternatively, you could use alot of regular compression spacers. After placing the steerer tube clamp and then the remnant (aka compression sleeve) on the steerer tube, screw the top cap into the star nut and tighten until you have the desired headset tension. Next, tighten the steerer tube clamp, then remove the top cap, star nut bolt, and compression spacer. You're done with the headset.

The inferior end of the sleevepost has a seatpost clamp that abuts the steerer tube clamp and clamps the sleevepost around the steerer tube. Ideally, the handlebar post (made of the smaller diameter tubing), when slipped into the lumen of the sleevepost, slides all the way down and rests on the top of the steerer tube (this is why you want a true cut, so the cut edges are flush), creating a coaxial or "double wallled" post that you can actually pull hard on when you feel the need to sprint (there's a novel idea on a folder) or power up a grade.

aaahhhh.... that's great maunakea thanks for the reply. I see the light! now i just have to get the courage to start the job. i'll let you know how i get on.

thanks again
barney

hi maunakea - just wanted to ask:

when you said:
threadless headset (necessary for the MEKS fork) (dremeled the I.D. of the top nut of Shimano STX headset to an al dente fit; a desperate builder’s trick, don’t try it at home; a compression ring and real threadless headset would probably work, but the MEKS steerer tube is smaller than nominal 1-1/8”)

do you mean that the steerer is thinner in width than 1.1/8? should i seak advice before ordering the headset?

barney

I did not want to use the bottom parts of a threaded headset and the top parts of a threadless headset (assuming I could find one that fit), so I found a way to use the top parts of the threaded headset, i.e., I dremeled out the threads of the Shimano STX threaded headset lower (non-locking) nut (which also has a seat for the top sealed bearing) until it would barely fit over the steerer tube. 　I used all parts of the STX headset (a threaded headset, which I needed because the DT headtube is machined for a threaded headset crown race and top race) other than the top nut (aka locknut). It has proven to be very durable, but I do periodically check the wear of the steel nut against the aluminum steerer tube. An even better solution would be to grind out enough space for a nylon compression C-ring to fit between the steel nut and the steerer tube, but since the tube is not turning within the nut, there no "cutting" force, just a static steel face against an aluminum tube.

Aloha Maunakea,

I am looking at the MASO carbon fork for my hardtail 20" downtube9. I wanted something more of a real suspension fork than what is on there. Was that an air fork or spring and oil? You posted that the frame was designed for a threaded headset? Did you ever just try a threadless headset to see if it fit? I like your idea of cutting a steering tube to retain the fork, but was wondering if you had found anything newer to get rid of that "cut steering stem" look. Thanks in advance, Don Lim, San Francisco. dlimjr@yahoo.com

I just got the MASO fork. Looks really good, not too many adjustments, but it has "carbon" on it...LOL. By my measurements and fitting, the OEM folding steering tube (even though it's heavy) will fit. I measured and a standard 1 1/8" non threaded headset should also fit. Now to get the frame powder coated. I will be removing the luggage rack to save some weight. I will keep everyone informed on my progress.