GEARS: Rear Derailer vs. Internal Hub
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Originally Posted by yangmusa
Umm, so your saying one cannot stand up with hub gears? I don't know which gears you have had the misfortune of trying, but I find that mine work just fine when I stand up and sprint hard...
/. Magnus
/. Magnus
The old Sturmey SW hub was VERY likely to jump out of gear. The modern Sunrace Sturmey gears are completely reliable. If you strip and examine them, you can see it is not possible for it to come out of gear because there are no neutrals. The nearest I have come is when the cable was maladjusted and it occasionally flipped down one gear. That problem was easily sorted. I stand on my pedals on every hill and hammer it with confidence - mind you, I'm not bult like Tarzan or anything - I doubt I put 300 watts into it EVER, usually about 80 - 200 going on my speeds and the calculations from here -
https://www.kreuzotter.de/english/espeed.htm
Last edited by EvilV; 06-02-07 at 02:01 PM.
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On Sunday I was riding along a path with my Merc, there were tree roots and stones that had to be dodged. After a while there were four young people with their hybrid bikes in front of me asking advice from a lady that obviously new the environment. I stopped behind them and listened: ”There used to be a better path here – these are no mountain bikes, we can’t ride this path”. Then I stepped the pedal hard and speeded past them. I now and then ride Merc standing up and there has never been trouble with gear slipping, and I often jump from street to curb with the bike. Last summer when I was riding my rear derailleur equipped bike in an environment described before, a stick got entangled somewhere between rear derailleur mechanism – it took time and effort to get it off – and bending derailleur arm back. This can’t happen with internal hub. I have been very happy with S&A 3-speed hub and think to update it with a second front sprocket, like EvilV described – I think it is a great combination, benefits of both types.
If you want to read about reliability of internal hub in far away countries check out this https://www.foldabikes.com/CurrentEvents/Story/Alex.html and https://www.foldabikes.com/CurrentEve...ory/Tibet.html
If you want to read about reliability of internal hub in far away countries check out this https://www.foldabikes.com/CurrentEvents/Story/Alex.html and https://www.foldabikes.com/CurrentEve...ory/Tibet.html
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Originally Posted by maranen
On Sunday I was riding along a path with my Merc, there were tree roots and stones that had to be dodged. After a while there were four young people with their hybrid bikes in front of me asking advice from a lady that obviously new the environment. I stopped behind them and listened: ”There used to be a better path here – these are no mountain bikes, we can’t ride this path”. Then I stepped the pedal hard and speeded past them. I now and then ride Merc standing up and there has never been trouble with gear slipping, and I often jump from street to curb with the bike. Last summer when I was riding my rear derailleur equipped bike in an environment described before, a stick got entangled somewhere between rear derailleur mechanism – it took time and effort to get it off – and bending derailleur arm back. This can’t happen with internal hub. I have been very happy with S&A 3-speed hub and think to update it with a second front sprocket, like EvilV described – I think it is a great combination, benefits of both types.
If you want to read about reliability of internal hub in far away countries check out this https://www.foldabikes.com/CurrentEvents/Story/Alex.html and https://www.foldabikes.com/CurrentEve...ory/Tibet.html
If you want to read about reliability of internal hub in far away countries check out this https://www.foldabikes.com/CurrentEvents/Story/Alex.html and https://www.foldabikes.com/CurrentEve...ory/Tibet.html
These tales of Alex the Brompton world traveller have kept me amused for over an hour. There are many more than these you have quoted accessible from Channell Wasson's site at foldabike.com.
Thanks for giving the links to Alex's travels.
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I've been reading this thread with great interest, since I plan on buying my first bike with an internal gear hub (Rohloff Speedhub 500-14 CC EX). Two things made me reconsider:
1. The standing on pedals issue. I guess it was established that this is not a problem with internal hubs, but I can't get enough reassurances here. I stand up all the time and push so hard that the chain slips even on a normal bike after some year's daily wear.
2. Someone wrote that internal hubs have a low gear range. The one I plan to buy has 14 gears with a gear ratio from 1.8 to 9.5 Meters (5.9 to 31 Feet), which seems pretty good to me. (I would prefer less gears with the same range, but it seems this is what most ppl want.)
The bike I'm thinking about is this:
https://www.stevensbikes.de/2009/inde...593&lang=en_US
It's a whole 800 euros cheaper (1120 USD) without the Rohloff internal hub.
I will commute as well as tour, and I like it fast. I like the idea of less maintenance and not so many parts sticking out from the bike, plus the idea of owning my first internal hub bike. More advice and experiences always welcome.
1. The standing on pedals issue. I guess it was established that this is not a problem with internal hubs, but I can't get enough reassurances here. I stand up all the time and push so hard that the chain slips even on a normal bike after some year's daily wear.
2. Someone wrote that internal hubs have a low gear range. The one I plan to buy has 14 gears with a gear ratio from 1.8 to 9.5 Meters (5.9 to 31 Feet), which seems pretty good to me. (I would prefer less gears with the same range, but it seems this is what most ppl want.)
The bike I'm thinking about is this:
https://www.stevensbikes.de/2009/inde...593&lang=en_US
It's a whole 800 euros cheaper (1120 USD) without the Rohloff internal hub.
I will commute as well as tour, and I like it fast. I like the idea of less maintenance and not so many parts sticking out from the bike, plus the idea of owning my first internal hub bike. More advice and experiences always welcome.
#30
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1. The standing on pedals issue. I guess it was established that this is not a problem with internal hubs, but I can't get enough reassurances here. I stand up all the time and push so hard that the chain slips even on a normal bike after some year's daily wear.
2. Someone wrote that internal hubs have a low gear range. The one I plan to buy has 14 gears with a gear ratio from 1.8 to 9.5 Meters (5.9 to 31 Feet), which seems pretty good to me. (I would prefer less gears with the same range, but it seems this is what most ppl want.)
2. Someone wrote that internal hubs have a low gear range. The one I plan to buy has 14 gears with a gear ratio from 1.8 to 9.5 Meters (5.9 to 31 Feet), which seems pretty good to me. (I would prefer less gears with the same range, but it seems this is what most ppl want.)
2. When people talk about narrow gear ranges in IGH's, they usually mean "except the Rohloff." It's easily got the widest gear range of any hub and, I think, has a comparable range to most derailleur bikes. I have also heard that it's very reliable, and (and I may be making this up) I even think there maybe a designated touring bike designed to run with a Rohloff. That means at least someone thinks it's reliable enough to tour on. I'm sure if you dig around you'll find some people talking about their Rohloff hubs, and I don't remember reading anything negative about them apart from their price tag.
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Ye gods! There is so much ignorant twaddle bandied around about the inferiority of gear hubs.
A 1960s S-A hub can slip if maladjusted, but if you can keep it away from the derailleur crowd who believe in twiddling the adjustment instead of setting it by the rod position, you won't have a problem. I have had a 1960s derailleur snap on me with eye-watering results. Compare 1960s with 1960s, not with current stuff.
A modern Sunrace S-A hub simply does not slip. I use one on a cyclocross bike that gets plenty of abuse offroad.
As for the "heavy" weight of a gear hub, has no-one weighed a full derailleur set of the standard fitted to most folding bikes?
Life expectancy of a properly looked after S-A gear hub is the life of the bike, whereas almost all the parts on a derailleur system are consumables (more so at the folding end of the market) and usually the cost of replacing the drivetrain means that the bike becomes disposable.
A 1960s S-A hub can slip if maladjusted, but if you can keep it away from the derailleur crowd who believe in twiddling the adjustment instead of setting it by the rod position, you won't have a problem. I have had a 1960s derailleur snap on me with eye-watering results. Compare 1960s with 1960s, not with current stuff.
A modern Sunrace S-A hub simply does not slip. I use one on a cyclocross bike that gets plenty of abuse offroad.
As for the "heavy" weight of a gear hub, has no-one weighed a full derailleur set of the standard fitted to most folding bikes?
Life expectancy of a properly looked after S-A gear hub is the life of the bike, whereas almost all the parts on a derailleur system are consumables (more so at the folding end of the market) and usually the cost of replacing the drivetrain means that the bike becomes disposable.
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Life expectancy of a properly looked after S-A gear hub is the life of the bike, whereas almost all the parts on a derailleur system are consumables (more so at the folding end of the market) and usually the cost of replacing the drivetrain means that the bike becomes disposable.
#34
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I have never heard of a Nexus 8 breaking... has anybody? AFAIK they are some of the sturdiest components on the market.
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I'm not bult like Tarzan or anything - I doubt I put 300 watts into it EVER, usually about 80 - 200 going on my speeds and the calculations from here -
How are you you mad Geordie? Merc still going strong with you 'hammering' it? Fantastic!
Regards
The Irish Chainbreaker
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Twiddling adjustment so the gears sound ok is fine for crude devices like derailleurs, but geared hubs need to be set up precisely, and have the markings to enable this to be done.
Thanks for the breakdown of the weights, Pibach. When I converted my Dahon to a single speed the bits I took off weighed almost 1kg and that's not accounting for the bit of chain, or the fact that the hub remained.
An interesting illustration of the so-called weight difference is by comparing the Dahon Mu P8 and the Mu XL Sport. The hub gear bike is 200 grams heavier but is equipped with mudguards which would weigh more than 200 grams.
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My bike has both RD and internal gear (SRAM DualDrive).
The internal gear requires virtually zero mentenance, shifts quickly and can shift while standing. The RD is dirty, bulky, requires frequent tuneups and causes cross chaining at the extreme gears.
My next bike will have internal gear only (Rohloff, more riding, less tweaking) though dealing with a DR was a great technical learning experience for me.
Kam
The internal gear requires virtually zero mentenance, shifts quickly and can shift while standing. The RD is dirty, bulky, requires frequent tuneups and causes cross chaining at the extreme gears.
My next bike will have internal gear only (Rohloff, more riding, less tweaking) though dealing with a DR was a great technical learning experience for me.
Kam
#39
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I do seem to remember reading about some issues with the previous batch of S-A 8-speeds. I think a couple of people managed to kill them, so I'm hoping that's sorted out with the new batch. The gearing seems great for a small-wheeled bike, and I hope it's still possible to swap out some of the nuts to get a narrower spacing because I'd love to incorporate an 8 speed hub into an old folder I'm working on.
Reliability is a key concern with gear hubs in general because repair/replacement can be more complicated then a derailleur set up, but I love my gear hubs, and only my wife's bike is running a derailleur, and that could change if I find a good gear hub for her.
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@datako, Rob E -
Both gears (on two separate Trek Navigators) were destroyed beyond repair; I think it took about 9 months for each gear. The guy riding the bike was larger (6'1, 250 lbs), rode 6-10 miles most days, generally on a screened gravel MUP that went to his work (the Illinois Prairie Path, to be specific). He suspects that his weight, plus perhaps some of the fine dust from the path, combined to destroy the gears. He was generally good about maintenance, and took the hubs to be serviced as soon as they felt hinky (especially the second one!), but there was really nothing that could be done. There are some similar complaints you can find on the internet; mostly, I think, involving 200 lb + riders; it's interesting that Trek's Navigator line no longer has IGHs.
I think that the basic problem is that the 8 IGHs have to be made much smaller to fit inside the same space that used to house 3 speed hubs, and that the smaller parts just aren't as durable. And it may well be that there would be no issues for a 160 lb rider who mostly rode on paved streets - but an advantage of IGHs is that they are supposed to be robust and reliable...this was certainly true of the older 3sp SAs.
None of this stopped me from getting a dual drive hub for my BF, and I have had 0 problems so far; I love the design. It is also a 3 speed hub, of course, and I'm about half the weight of my friend. (Also, the SRAM hub has a slightly better rep than the Nexi, AFAICT). But I can't help thinking that there is may be something inherently weaker about 8 speed IGHs that means that they can't be as bombproof as older 3spd hubs.
Both gears (on two separate Trek Navigators) were destroyed beyond repair; I think it took about 9 months for each gear. The guy riding the bike was larger (6'1, 250 lbs), rode 6-10 miles most days, generally on a screened gravel MUP that went to his work (the Illinois Prairie Path, to be specific). He suspects that his weight, plus perhaps some of the fine dust from the path, combined to destroy the gears. He was generally good about maintenance, and took the hubs to be serviced as soon as they felt hinky (especially the second one!), but there was really nothing that could be done. There are some similar complaints you can find on the internet; mostly, I think, involving 200 lb + riders; it's interesting that Trek's Navigator line no longer has IGHs.
I think that the basic problem is that the 8 IGHs have to be made much smaller to fit inside the same space that used to house 3 speed hubs, and that the smaller parts just aren't as durable. And it may well be that there would be no issues for a 160 lb rider who mostly rode on paved streets - but an advantage of IGHs is that they are supposed to be robust and reliable...this was certainly true of the older 3sp SAs.
None of this stopped me from getting a dual drive hub for my BF, and I have had 0 problems so far; I love the design. It is also a 3 speed hub, of course, and I'm about half the weight of my friend. (Also, the SRAM hub has a slightly better rep than the Nexi, AFAICT). But I can't help thinking that there is may be something inherently weaker about 8 speed IGHs that means that they can't be as bombproof as older 3spd hubs.
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Ye gods! There is so much ignorant twaddle bandied around about the inferiority of gear hubs.
A 1960s S-A hub can slip if maladjusted, but if you can keep it away from the derailleur crowd who believe in twiddling the adjustment instead of setting it by the rod position, you won't have a problem. I have had a 1960s derailleur snap on me with eye-watering results. Compare 1960s with 1960s, not with current stuff.
A modern Sunrace S-A hub simply does not slip. I use one on a cyclocross bike that gets plenty of abuse offroad.
As for the "heavy" weight of a gear hub, has no-one weighed a full derailleur set of the standard fitted to most folding bikes?
Life expectancy of a properly looked after S-A gear hub is the life of the bike, whereas almost all the parts on a derailleur system are consumables (more so at the folding end of the market) and usually the cost of replacing the drivetrain means that the bike becomes disposable.
A 1960s S-A hub can slip if maladjusted, but if you can keep it away from the derailleur crowd who believe in twiddling the adjustment instead of setting it by the rod position, you won't have a problem. I have had a 1960s derailleur snap on me with eye-watering results. Compare 1960s with 1960s, not with current stuff.
A modern Sunrace S-A hub simply does not slip. I use one on a cyclocross bike that gets plenty of abuse offroad.
As for the "heavy" weight of a gear hub, has no-one weighed a full derailleur set of the standard fitted to most folding bikes?
Life expectancy of a properly looked after S-A gear hub is the life of the bike, whereas almost all the parts on a derailleur system are consumables (more so at the folding end of the market) and usually the cost of replacing the drivetrain means that the bike becomes disposable.
EDIT:
As above for the longevity issues. It seems obvious that fitting lots of smaller cogs into a similar space makes the seven and eight speed hubs a less longlived proposition than the three speeders. One way around this might be to mate two front chain rings to a bomb proof three speed. This works pretty well on my Merc, but I do get some repeat gears so that I only end up with four unique gears rather than the six you might expect.
Last edited by EvilV; 06-30-09 at 12:17 PM.
#42
Part-time epistemologist
Three speed hubs are pretty robust across the board.
Peter Reich told me that the SRAM Dual Drive added about 1-1.5 pounds to a derailer based drivetrain and that the Nexus Red Band added yet another pound to that.
My bike has both RD and internal gear (SRAM DualDrive).
The internal gear requires virtually zero mentenance, shifts quickly and can shift while standing. The RD is dirty, bulky, requires frequent tuneups and causes cross chaining at the extreme gears.
My next bike will have internal gear only (Rohloff, more riding, less tweaking) though dealing with a DR was a great technical learning experience for me.
Kam
The internal gear requires virtually zero mentenance, shifts quickly and can shift while standing. The RD is dirty, bulky, requires frequent tuneups and causes cross chaining at the extreme gears.
My next bike will have internal gear only (Rohloff, more riding, less tweaking) though dealing with a DR was a great technical learning experience for me.
Kam
I agree with all of this. The modern SA kit (and I am sure the other manufacturer's products too) don't slip into neutrals like the old SA ones did.
EDIT:
As above for the longevity issues. It seems obvious that fitting lots of smaller cogs into a similar space makes the seven and eight speed hubs a less longlived proposition than the three speeders. One way around this might be to mate two front chain rings to a bomb proof three speed. This works pretty well on my Merc, but I do get some repeat gears so that I only end up with four unique gears rather than the six you might expect.
EDIT:
As above for the longevity issues. It seems obvious that fitting lots of smaller cogs into a similar space makes the seven and eight speed hubs a less longlived proposition than the three speeders. One way around this might be to mate two front chain rings to a bomb proof three speed. This works pretty well on my Merc, but I do get some repeat gears so that I only end up with four unique gears rather than the six you might expect.
Personally, I find derailers to be extremely robust and very easy to repair. Although there are certain circumstances where I think an internal hub is preferred.
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#43
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Also you have to compare like for like - and there the Nexus Premium is at the level of an XT dereilleur system - allthough it is more expensive.
Interestingly the Mu SL is almost 3kg (!) lighter than the Mu Sport.
But this is partially due to wheels, crank set&axle and handlepost.
Honestly I liked the SL much better than the Sport.
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I am not aware of any great difference between the Nexus and Nexus Premium in weight, and in this case it was the weight difference between a derailleur system and a hub gear system on more or less the same bike I was commenting on.
I agree about the MuSL, my son has one. It's a lovely bike - but it is a SL version of the Mu, and should be treated like a lightweight racing bike and saved for sports riding. Commuting on it over poor surfaces would soon cause it to deteriorate in my opinion. (That applies to the superlight version of any bike)
Last edited by datako; 07-01-09 at 02:40 AM.
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As I wrote above, SA 8 (WRF? ... I can't remember the designation) hubs certainly do slip and can be very touchy about adjustment. Mine works OK for a multimode commuter.
Personally, I find derailers to be extremely robust and very easy to repair. Although there are certain circumstances where I think an internal hub is preferred.
Personally, I find derailers to be extremely robust and very easy to repair. Although there are certain circumstances where I think an internal hub is preferred.
#46
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Maybe. But marketing pressures might be quite different for various makes and models. Moreover, if Dahon is executing a price discrimination scheme then they would have reason to bias estimates to change the relative attractiveness of models.
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Commuting on it over poor surfaces would soon cause it to deteriorate in my opinion. (That applies to the superlight version of any bike)
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However I used these Dahons as a convenient example to illustrate that the weight differences between similar bikes fitted with a gear hub and one with a derailleur was not significant.
All manufacturers specs are full of "errors" and I would regard them as a guide to what will be on the bike rather than holy writ. It has always been thus, and generally the differences are minor. I buy my bikes from the shop, not from catalogues, so it doesn't bother me.
#49
Part-time epistemologist
The weight estimate I got from Peter Reich is also the estimate I got from Bike Friday in regards to the net weight effect of derailer -> SRAM DD -> Nexus Red Band. I have not run down the specs, but there are enough things that change -- the amount of chain, cable, and housing, for instance -- that I don't have convenient estimates to simply take their word for it.
Now, for most purposes, I don't think 2 pounds is significant. Although that is a long standing discussion that I don't have the patience for today.
BTW, I always thought that if a bike came with pedals and a saddle it would be included in the weight estimate unless explicitly defined otherwise. But AFAIK, there is no official standard.
EDIT: I just took a peek. The Mu SL lists that the weight is w/o pedals. The other bikes omit the description. What does it mean? We can only speculate.
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Last edited by invisiblehand; 07-01-09 at 03:40 PM.
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All manufacturers specs are full of "errors" and I would regard them as a guide to what will be on the bike rather than holy writ. It has always been thus, and generally the differences are minor. I buy my bikes from the shop, not from catalogues, so it doesn't bother me.