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My Raleigh Twenty bottom bracket is mush

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My Raleigh Twenty bottom bracket is mush

Old 06-30-07, 07:26 AM
  #1  
jur
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My Raleigh Twenty bottom bracket is mush

OK, I am sidelined by my twenty's bottom bracket. I have noticed that play builds up in it over a week. I tightened it, and next weekend it's got play again. So today I took it apart and the axle and cups is absolute toast, beyond repair. I am sad because I am losing the crankset, too. I am forced to retap the threads and put on a modern square taper.

Unless I can get hold of a new axle/spindle and 26tpi cupset. Any ideas, anyone? I can get hold of a new spindle on ebay, but the cups are a problem. Any cups here that someone no longer wants?

But perhaps I am merely postponing the inevitable. I wonder how strong retapped threads are. Any ideas?
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Old 06-30-07, 11:27 AM
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Jur

You are a Veteran in this forum, I do not believe you have missed the last discussion about this issue. Basically the BB shell of the R20 is threaded 15 ou 16 mm in each edge. If you face the BB to 73 mm and retap the BB shell to a depth of 20 or 25 mm, you have a thread strong enough for any BB cartridge.
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Old 06-30-07, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by jur
OK, I am sidelined by my twenty's bottom bracket. I have noticed that play builds up in it over a week. I tightened it, and next weekend it's got play again. So today I took it apart and the axle and cups is absolute toast, beyond repair. I am sad because I am losing the crankset, too. I am forced to retap the threads and put on a modern square taper.

Unless I can get hold of a new axle/spindle and 26tpi cupset. Any ideas, anyone? I can get hold of a new spindle on ebay, but the cups are a problem. Any cups here that someone no longer wants?

But perhaps I am merely postponing the inevitable. I wonder how strong retapped threads are. Any ideas?
Sheldon Brown has options for dealing with vintage Raleighs. My old LBS just retapped the 73 mm oversized shell to take a modern bottom bracket. Some threads are stripped but its worked well. My Raleigh Twenty runs great as a fixed gear folder. The only thing I didn't like about mine is the crappy paint job and I plan to change the color scheme to the black used on full sized Raleigh Sports bicycles.
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Old 06-30-07, 08:12 PM
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I will have it re-tapped and refaced, but at this stage I am hoping I may retain the original crankset by some kind forumer's cast-off Twenty cups. There must be a fair few of them from people who have upgraded theirs... (Which I am perfectly willing to pay for, that goes without saying.)
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Old 06-30-07, 08:38 PM
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Check this out

https://www.rhizomes.nl/twenty.html Read starting half way down concerning BB, sorry if you have read it before.
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Old 07-01-07, 05:05 PM
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Jur - Sorry to hear that...
I'm actually looking at a very cheap non-folding twenty on ebay at the moment that looks like it might sell for peanuts as it's missing it's seatpost, saddle and is a little worse for wear. The auction finishes tomorrow and if I do win it you're very welcome to the cups/crank/whatever else is needed from down there. UK Twentys are usually pretty low mileage whatever the age so fingers crossed they'll still be in pretty good condition.

I only wish I kept the original ones from the twenty we all know, but my LBS junked them and at the time I wasn't really that bothered by this.

If I do win it (don't get your hopes too high - I can't spend much and will abort the auction if it gets silly) and manage to strip them down without too much problem (cotterpins!) then I can send them to you post haste.
How's that sound?
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Old 07-01-07, 05:18 PM
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[QUOTE=jur]

Unless I can get hold of a new axle/spindle and 26tpi cupset. Any ideas, anyone? I can get hold of a new spindle on ebay, but the cups are a problem. Any cups here that someone no longer wants?

QUOTE]

Jur,
I have spindle, cranks, and cups available. Residue from my five-Twenty conversion.
I had to weld a hexnut on to fixed cup it get it out of the BBshell, but I can cut and grind that away.
Other that the discoloration from the heat it still threads in and out.

Let me know how much of it you want. regards to all, GR
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Old 07-01-07, 05:19 PM
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Thanks a lot for your offer, Huw. But I have decided to go another route which opens up all possibilities for me - I am going the get the thread retapped, and the shell refaced to 73mm. Then I can use either common cups with a new R20 spindle which I can get on ebay, or I can opt to use any modern sealed BB, and even revert to my old crankset later on.

The problem is commuting in all weathers - that's heavy duty use, so I better get a decent sealed BB.
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Old 07-02-07, 10:20 AM
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Well I won the bike for 4.99 so yay to that. No postage as I can pick it up. One to sit in the shed a while while I finish my other projects!
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Old 07-06-07, 04:34 PM
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Jur,

I am just about to convert my R20, (The Wasp), to the phil wood rings and UN 72 set up, my Raleigh cups are in good cond and seeing I'm only about 150kms from you I can post them to you if you want them.

By the way, do you know if the 23 tooth rear sprocket for the 8 speed S/A hub is available, and if so, where can I get one? I bought my hub from Harris Cyclery but it came with a 25t and I would like a little more speed downhill. I am going to use a set of black Redline bmx cranks to match the wasp's colour and it seems I can only get a 46t chainring up front to match the cranks spacing....any ideas?
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Old 07-06-07, 08:42 PM
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Guy Retreau: Thanks for your offer, sorry I didn't see your post earlier. I'll let you know if I want the spindle if the following option doesn't pan out.

stevegor: I picked up the frame yesterday after the LBS retapped the threads. However, I am still after a R20 spindle, is yours looking ok, no pitting? I am getting some YSM cups with seals. Together I hope to get my cake and eat it.

huw: Have you had a chance to look at you new aquisition's spindle yet? I am after a spindle with no pitting - mine had a small pit when I got it; I thought it would be OK but 6000km later it is finished, having chewed up the balls and the cup in the process. So now I am scared of any pitting.
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Old 07-07-07, 12:27 PM
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Jur - I PMed you yesterday... It's in reasonably good shape - not sure if it'll be up to muster though - the one side is perfect - the ballrun is polished and seemingly unpitted - the other -sadly- not quite as good. There's a smear of dark oxidation running around maybe 30% of it's circumference and one or two areas with minor pitting. These are tiny but I know what you mean about getting something pristine as they can only get bigger. I've attached a shot of the worst for you - sorry it's not the best pic - blimmin autofocus - let me know what you think...
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spindle.jpg (95.8 KB, 29 views)
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Old 07-07-07, 10:50 PM
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Huw - No PM, lost in cyberpsace...

If the pitting is opposite the place where force happens when pedalling, then it may be usable. I figure no pressure, no problem. In my case, the pit coincided with the force spot.
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Old 07-08-07, 03:50 AM
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Originally Posted by jur
Guy Retreau: Thanks for your offer, sorry I didn't see your post earlier. I'll let you know if I want the spindle if the following option doesn't pan out.

stevegor: I picked up the frame yesterday after the LBS retapped the threads. However, I am still after a R20 spindle, is yours looking ok, no pitting? I am getting some YSM cups with seals. Together I hope to get my cake and eat it.

huw: Have you had a chance to look at you new aquisition's spindle yet? I am after a spindle with no pitting - mine had a small pit when I got it; I thought it would be OK but 6000km later it is finished, having chewed up the balls and the cup in the process. So now I am scared of any pitting.

Jur,

I will check the condition of the bb when I get off my bum and actually do the work , shouldn't be long, I will let you know.
I bought a 48 tooth cog from my LBS so I'll install that as well, should give me more top end speed without losing too much in the lower gears, might have to lengthen the chain but.
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