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Originally Posted by CEBEP
(Post 22565303)
Saddle angle seems to be a little too down. Aren’t you sliding off of it?
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Originally Posted by CEBEP
(Post 22565305)
Removed low rider from front fork. Do I need to close down this hole? To prevent water from getting in and what not?
I left it open without thinking about it. How is it on Birdys delivered without a lowrider? |
Originally Posted by CEBEP
(Post 22565295)
fatbikeGM welcome to community :)
Looking forward to your post update with photos when you’ll reach 10 posts. I’m specifically interested to see how you secured the pump. This thread, or to be more precise, the mention of the H&H adapter made me reconsider a Birdy. So, in a way, this is my Birdy-home ;-) The pump is a Crank Brothers Stirling mini pump that i quite like and that comes with a holder. I secured that holder to the rack with zip ties. As soon as i‘m allowed i‘ll post a picture. |
Went for a ride today and noticed a noise in the front when I was increasing the speed. I didn’t bring the bike to my mechanic yet so I don’t know what can it be, brakes that need adjustment or hub?
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Originally Posted by CEBEP
(Post 22565305)
Removed low rider from front fork. Do I need to close down this hole? To prevent water from getting in and what not?
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Originally Posted by CEBEP
(Post 22565534)
Went for a ride today and noticed a noise in the front. I didn’t bring the bike to my mechanic yet so I don’t know what can it be, brakes that need adjustment or hub?
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Originally Posted by fatbikeGM
(Post 22565434)
Thank you!
This thread, or to be more precise, the mention of the H&H adapter made me reconsider a Birdy. So, in a way, this is my Birdy-home ;-) The pump is a Crank Brothers Stirling mini pump that i quite like and that comes with a holder. I secured that holder to the rack with zip ties. As soon as i‘m allowed i‘ll post a picture. |
I’m about 100kgs and my R&M Birdy Touring came with red rear elastomer which seems to be a little too soft. Trying to order hard one but they don’t seem to be available all that wide. Found this one but its grey and it reads hard. As far as I know hard ones are green. Is there a difference for elastomers for Birdy 1, 2 or 3 or they fit all models?
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Originally Posted by CEBEP
(Post 22565579)
I’m about 100kgs and my R&M Birdy Touring came with red rear elastomer which seems to be a little too soft. Trying to order hard one but they don’t seem to be available all that wide. Found this one but its grey and it reads hard. As far as I know hard ones are green. Is there a difference for elastomers for Birdy 1, 2 or 3 or they fit all models?
It says it fits all Birdy models. |
They don’t ship intentional. Ordered from Migjty Velo. Thanks.
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Originally Posted by CEBEP
(Post 22565560)
I checked several adaptors and am thinking on buying xxx which looks better to my eye. Since I have comfort stem lack of angle shouldn’t be a problem.
So I‘ll rephrase my reply since the original text was lost: Please use Loctite with whatever adapter you buy. Both the H&H adapter and the Brompton luggage block came with Loctite blue. |
Originally Posted by fatbikeGM
(Post 22565839)
Apparently I can not even _quote_ URLs before 10 posts …
So I‘ll rephrase my reply since the original text was lost: Please use Loctite with whatever adapter you buy. Both the H&H adapter and the Brompton luggage block came with Loctite blue. |
Originally Posted by CEBEP
(Post 22565305)
Removed low rider from front fork. Do I need to close down this hole? To prevent water from getting in and what not?
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0c83ca3bf.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7f03c16c04.jpg |
Did the same, put short ones in. There is a hole from the inside too, added washers to make sure bolts don’t touch each other inside the fork.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...33d651cce.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...52ea10bb7.jpeg |
Originally Posted by CEBEP
(Post 22565579)
I’m about 100kgs and my R&M Birdy Touring came with red rear elastomer which seems to be a little too soft. Trying to order hard one but they don’t seem to be available all that wide. Found this one but its grey and it reads hard. As far as I know hard ones are green. Is there a difference for elastomers for Birdy 1, 2 or 3 or they fit all models?
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...be6892cb0.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7f1042326.jpeg |
Originally Posted by CEBEP
(Post 22565869)
Did the same, put short ones in. There is a hole from the inside too, added washers to make sure bolts don’t touch each other inside the fork.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...33d651cce.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...52ea10bb7.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8c5381b9e.jpeg |
[QUOTE=fatbikeGM;22565839]Apparently I can not even _quote_ URLs before 10 posts …
So I‘ll rephrase my reply since the original text was lost: Please use Loctite with whatever adapter you buy. Both the H&H adapter and the Brompton luggage block came with Loctite blue.[/QUOTE The adapters have tiny set screws that are used to lock in the top (tension) bolts by screwing them down on the threads of the tension bolts. I think that even if the set screws were to back out, that having used them, the threads of the tension bolts would be damaged and will resist being unscrewed. They also supply a loctite type liquid. |
Originally Posted by jackyharuhiko
(Post 22565954)
I recently changed the suspensions with harder ones from Ridea.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...be6892cb0.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7f1042326.jpeg |
I have Matumura Kohki Scrowave suspension on my Brompton and am very happy with it. Apparently there was a model available for Birdy but I’m not sure if it’s available any longer.
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jackyharuhiko has a Pacific Cycle Birdy, most Pacific Cycle Birdy are factory equipped with the 10.5 turn softer front spring while Riese & Müller Birdy are factory equipped with the harder 8.5 turn spring.
For me, the original front suspension with the 8.5 turn spring is perfect ( I am around 80kg), the softer 10.5 that was factory mounted on my Ti Birdy was too soft especially with a loaded Brompton front bag. I tried the Multi-S G5+ suspension set (that seems very good with a front spring+hydraulic damper and sophisticated rear multi-rubber system) and it was bad. The rear is ultra hard, there is almost no suspension. I couldn't compress it by pushing on it, then I put it in a vice and even so, the max compression I could obtain is about 5mm. The front is also harder with a shorter spring that results in a shorter travel than the original and the top ring for the hook has a rectangular groove that doesn't fit with the shape of the frame hook (which is designed to hook a spring = a round object) with as consequence a continuous rattling noise coming from the front suspension. I also tried the Ridea PU 100 hard rear suspension and it works slightly better than the original but the M3 very long mounting bold was broken several times, I eventually glued the several parts of this PU block instead. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...df51d55c2d.jpg |
Originally Posted by Jipe
(Post 22566438)
jackyharuhiko has a Pacific Cycle Birdy, most Pacific Cycle Birdy are factory equipped with the 10.5 turn softer front spring while Riese & Müller Birdy are factory equipped with the harder 8.5 turn spring.
For me, the original front suspension with the 8.5 turn spring is perfect ( I am around 80kg), the softer 10.5 that was factory mounted on my Ti Birdy was too soft especially with a loaded Brompton front bag. I tried the Multi-S G5+ suspension set (that seems very good with a front spring+hydraulic damper and sophisticated rear multi-rubber system) and it was bad. The rear is ultra hard, there is almost no suspension. I couldn't compress it by pushing on it, then I put it in a vice and even so, the max compression I could obtain is about 5mm. The front is also harder with a shorter spring that results in a shorter travel than the original and the top ring for the hook has a rectangular groove that doesn't fit with the shape of the frame hook (which is designed to hook a spring = a round object) with as consequence a continuous rattling noise coming from the front suspension. I also tried the Ridea PU 100 hard rear suspension and it works slightly better than the original but the M3 very long mounting bold was broken several times, I eventually glued the several parts of this PU block instead. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...df51d55c2d.jpg This is the information about my front suspension and the rear suspension - a newer version released in early 2021. |
Originally Posted by CEBEP
(Post 22563098)
it’s M6, length is 79mm or probably 80mm when it’s straight:)
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Found this test comparing SON, SP and Shimano dyno hubs. Does it correspond to SP hub model used in R&M Birdy 3?
SP hub seems to be least efficient with highest drag. |
Originally Posted by glye
(Post 22548848)
I kept the front light, because if was difficult to find something better that isn't put at risk when folding the bike. I added an on/off switch to the dynamo wire. It's a 12-volt rated water resistant toggle switch, mounted to a small plate of aluminium bolted to the light mount. When it's off, both lights are off and the front wheel spins much longer, so it seems to do what it should.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gunnst...7700342795322/ I replaced the tiny caliper mounted taillight with a bigger standard carrier mounted light with a reflector. Point shaped light sources give little indication of distance. Bigger (not necessarily brighter) lights makes it easier to judge changing distance for someone who approaches from behind. I had to extend the cable and lead it up to the carrier, making sure nothing is damaged when folding. Not a great photo, but you can see it under the carrier, behind the roller wheel: https://www.flickr.com/photos/gunnst...7700342795322/ |
Originally Posted by CEBEP
(Post 22567478)
I just checked B&M IQ-XS model which is 70lux (or 80lux acc to b&m site) like supernova E3 Pure and has almost identical dimensions, 50 x 40 mm vs 49 x 41 mm on Supernova E3 Pure 3. Difference is IQ-XS has a built in switch and light sensor which automatically switches it on/off, two side light strips for side visibility, aluminum casing. Also back light connection, so B&M rear light can be installed on the rack. Dis you consider this option before? I’m pretty sure IQ-XS will also have excellent optics and wide beam. Not sure how reliable it is though as there were few reviews on the Amazon saying it died after less than a year.
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Originally Posted by CEBEP
(Post 22567478)
I just checked B&M IQ-XS model which is 70lux (or 80lux acc to b&m site) like supernova E3 Pure and has almost identical dimensions, 50 x 40 mm vs 49 x 41 mm on Supernova E3 Pure 3. Difference is IQ-XS has a built in switch and light sensor which automatically switches it on/off, two side light strips for side visibility, aluminum casing. Also back light connection, so B&M rear light can be installed on the rack. Dis you consider this option before? I’m pretty sure IQ-XS will also have excellent optics and wide beam. Not sure how reliable it is though as there were few reviews on the Amazon saying it died after less than a year.
What would be the effort to switch? I assume the cable is fixed to the lamp, not attached via a plug, right? |
Originally Posted by fatbikeGM
(Post 22567653)
This looks interesting!
What would be the effort to switch? I assume the cable is fixed to the lamp, not attached via a plug, right? https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...247e441f56.jpg |
Originally Posted by CEBEP
(Post 22567412)
Found _this_test [URL removed so I may quote ...] comparing SON, SP and Shimano dyno hubs. Does it correspond to SP hub model used in R&M Birdy 3?
SP hub seems to be least efficient with highest drag. On the R&M site it only says "Hub dynamo Shutter Precision" so no idea but I would not expect ours to be better. The way I read the graph in the cylclingabout article under "Results: Dynamo Hub Drag and Output Power Using Different Lights" ist that until 20 km/h is reached the SP has the least drag. That would be fine by me. I am surprised by the total amount of drag though: Nearly 9 Watts (and half of that even with the light off) at 25 km/h is quite a lot. My average performance over an hour is about 250 Watts so that's 3,6 %. Cyclists have gone to great lengths to pursue smaller gains in efficiency. Between this, the weight of my luggage and the excess weight on my hips atm I wonder how fast I could be without all that ... |
Originally Posted by glye
(Post 22567656)
Yes, for both lights. So if you want to do it, it looks like you would replace both the light and the whole cable from the light to the dynamo. Then connect the tail light cable to the cable stump which has flat blade connectors.
I will handle it like you: If the Supernova light ever breaks I will replace it with this. |
Originally Posted by fatbikeGM
(Post 22567657)
Good find!
On the R&M site it only says "Hub dynamo Shutter Precision" so no idea but I would not expect ours to be better. The way I read the graph in the cylclingabout article under "Results: Dynamo Hub Drag and Output Power Using Different Lights" ist that until 20 km/h is reached the SP has the least drag. That would be fine by me. I am surprised by the total amount of drag though: Nearly 9 Watts (and half of that even with the light off) at 25 km/h is quite a lot. My average performance over an hour is about 250 Watts so that's 3,6 %. Cyclists have gone to great lengths to pursue smaller gains in efficiency. Between this, the weight of my luggage and the excess weight on my hips atm I wonder how fast I could be without all that ... However I have another small wheel bike, and there the SON is an interesting option, because of the very low drag with lights off (which is most of the time). Their folding specific hub won't fit as it is 74 mm and has no space for disks, but they claim the SONdelux is "for road bikes and smaller rims" so it's optimised for high rotation speeds. I would also like to see a test of the Shimano 1.5W hubs. They are small, lightweight and deliver half the power, but with higher rotation speeds of small wheels it might be enough. They would be a bad option for USB charging, though. |
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