The factory front light mounting is on the left side of the fork with a special plate attached to the inner side of the fork threaded hole (the same threaded hole used for the pin that holds the front wheel folded on the right side of the fork).

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...597ef8915b.jpg

Yes, I considered the front fork but agree that, as the bounciest piece on the whole bike, it's probably not ideal. I was thinking handlebar too, and running the cable up with the front brake cable in a wrap. One annoyance is that Shimano dynamo hubs have to be mounted with the connector on the opposite side.

That's neat. Do you know if R&M sell the mounts separately?

Yes, they do, I bought one for my Birdy Titanium that wasn't factory equipped with lights.

Now, the fork of the several Birdy models, Birdy 1, Birdy 2 and Birdy 3 are different, there is a different one for Birdy <2016 but is it usable for a Birdy 1 (before 2016 there were the Birdy 1, Birdy 2 hydroformed frame and Birdy 2 World with frame made of tubes like for the Birdy 1 but a different one) ?

The one for Birdy <2016 (sorry, its a Dutch webshop).
The one for Birdy from 2016 = Birdy 3 (same Dutch webshop).

Ah - sadly they don't ship to the UK - I could probably bodge something similar though.

Hi marcoarrieta - I think I'm up to my 10 posts, so here goes:

Notes about the conversion:

1. Buying the vertical dropout kit (blue and green) and swapping them over puts the cassette arm at the right angle.
2. The cassette arm needs bending out slightly to avoid snagging the chain but is fine once this is done.
3. The Brompton tensioner works really well and, IMO, looks better than the one R&M use on their IGH models. However, mounting it requires a bit of hacking about:
   1. You need to cut the shape of the hanger into the ring on the front of the tensioner (see third pic) and then bolt to the back of the hanger with an allen bolt and large washer. I used a hacksaw and file but a Dremel would be better.
   2. In order to bolt the tensioner to the hanger, the wheel needs to be in place, which then blocks access to the bolt. I solved this by drilling out the rest to make a hollow bolt I could run an allen key through from the front (you'll see from the third pic again that my drilling was slightly off centre).
   3. There's a lug on the leading edge of the tensioner mount which also needs filing off as it snags with the selector in top gear (this will be apparent when you try to mount it).

As I said up thread, I'm considering drilling a hole in the bottom of the swing arm so I can run the gear cable inside it instead of the cable tie.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2ddecb83c8.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...15fbbfc61b.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e505d0e566.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...427dd08bfe.jpg

Yes, I know, they only ship to The Netherlands and Belgium but any Riese & Müller dealer (even if they sell only R&M ebikes and do not sell the Birdy) can order these parts for you and any Birdy spare part if you tell them what part you need.

Your solution that use a Brompton chain tensionner on a Birdy is very nice. Its only drawback is that it works only on a bike without rear derailleur.

I ended up bodging a brake spacer into service for the front light, as well as routing the gear cable through the swing arm:


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bf050869cf.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c2543f2f9a.jpg

Nice upgrade.

But Riese & Müller mount the lights on the left side, the front light is less exposed to shock while carrying the folded Birdy when its on the left side.

Ah yes, I'm in the UK where it makes more sense to have it mounted on the right.

Yes, I can imagine, but the rear wheel folds on the left side of the main tube and the stem over it, both protect the front light when its on the left side of the fork.

It's great to see your modifications and fixes, they are very creative.
The only thing I'm a bit hesitant about are the holes in the frame. Aren't you worried about possible cracks? Can you think of a solution to reinforce the hole area?
My project is an electric birdy with a front engine and an IGH at the back and a belt drive.
(photos coming soon)

There's only one hole and it's in a flat section on the underside of the arm with plenty of structural strength in the fold of the square tubing either side of it, so I'm not too worried about cracks.

Looking forward to seeing pics of yours

FYI, there were Birdy with factory installed hub motor but only with rear hub motor, not with front hub motor. Not sure that the fork is strong enough to accept a hub motor?

It seems to me that the front fork with its parallelogram structure is more solid than the rear fork with a single fat arm without structural support and it is easier to put an anti-torsion arm on the front.
The problem I found is that only two motors fit in it.
The 4.5 kg crystalyte 406 and the motor of the Xiaomi QiCYCLE EF1 bike, only 1.5 kg.
First I am going to try with the crystalyte because they sold it to me with the rim already installed
The other one I have to assemble myself and it will take me a few weeks when I have everything ready and if I am not mistaken when taking the measurements of the spokes

Regarding the holes, I would like to make a hole in the main frame tube and pass the cables through it, but I fear that would cause greater structural damage.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...22718258f.jpeg
this is my girl and the 2 possible motors, with out battery , arrive today

Where are you thinking of mounting the battery?

For optimal weight distribution I have a 10ah battery that will hang under the tube, pulled backwards.
And I was thinking of a second battery of another 10ah, but I don't know if it will hang from the seat backwards or if I will use the rear rack.
I have to see how it feels when I ride it and if I really need a second battery.
and surely the weights will vary with the second much lighter engine

​​​​​​I'd be tempted to mount a single battery on the rear rack and run its cable through the guides along with the brake and gear cables.

​​​​​Have you tried folding it with the 4.5kg motor in place? I'd imagine it makes it quite hard?

Yes, very difficult, and it doesn't stay in place with the bolts that secure the tire in the folded position.
But I don't think I'll be commuting with it, but I do need it folded for storage.
By the way, the bike now weighs 16.6 kg.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...cd240f6f1.jpeg
This will be the position of the first battery, with it I will begin to do tests and decide if I will put another one
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f37d42c4f.jpeg
and for those who asked about the position of my front light

FWIW, mine now weighs in at 13.4kg - the hubs, mudguards, rack and lights all adding to the base weight.

If the other engine works well I hope to lower it by 3 kg or keep it at 16 kg with an extra battery. maybe a ti bb could help to fit

Birdy One Rear Rack Attachment
 

I have an early Birdy that uses the nylon blocks to pinch the seat tube, instead of the current method that's used. I'm going to fillet braze a rear rack and want to use the original mounting points. I understand that the rear rack is supposed to attach to the quick release, but it's not clear how. Does anyone have closeup pictures of both sides of the connection with a rack installed? I'm new here, so can't post pics yet. Thank you.

mattdd is yours the one with the clamp in front of the seatpost or behind? I can show you the latter but I suspect yours might be the former.

Interestingly, I see Pacific Cycles are offering a 'New Classic' Birdy (effectively a Mk1) https://www.pacific-cycles.com/birdy/new-classic-birdy

No, even if it looks like a Birdy 1 or a Birdy 2 World, its none of those two old Birdy with a frame made of welded tubes, the geometry of the frame is different, the construction is different (look for instance at the semi-integrated bearings of the fork, the seat tube clamp...).

Its a newly designed frame, a kind of Birdy 3 with a frame made of welded tubes instead of hydroformed.

Birdy One Rear Rack Attachment
 

@Lomaxfairchild, it's the model with the clamp in front. But any pictures could possibly help if you don't mind posting what you have. Thanks.

Not sure what's the version of your Birdy Classic. It could either be version 1 or 2, excluding the World Sports. Hope these pictures help. You can probably forget about fitting a rear rack to version 1.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...579c3784b7.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...39fc71a530.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3da637f55a.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...22846265f.jpeg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4576baaf0f.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...efa93702ff.jpg

[QUOTE=BabyCowHK;23344150]Not sure what's the version of your Birdy Classic. It could either be version 1 or 2, excluding the world sport. Hope these pictures help. You can probably forget about fitting a rear rack ......

Mine is essentially the same as the BD-1 you show, but a bit later, I think. Same seatpost clamp. What is confusing to me is how the rack interfaces with the seatpost quick release. On one side there's a black plastic flanged bushing, but on the other side nothing. Thanks for the pics.