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Sturmey Archer S2C + More

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Sturmey Archer S2C + More

Old 09-02-10, 07:01 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by meb View Post
I noticed there are S3X 13T cogs for 3/32 chain. Will the S3X cogs work ok (assuming the ratio works) on the three kickback 2 speeds Sturmey has?
No.

Are there any 3/32 chain compatible cogs for the Sturmey kickbacks in the 16-20T range?
Except for the fixed gear S3X, Sturmey, Shimano and SRAM 3-spd (and 2-, 4-, 5-, 7- and some 8-speed) cogs are cross compatable. All three companies offer 3/32 cogs, so whatever you can find on-line or your LBS can source will work.
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Old 09-13-10, 03:12 PM
  #52  
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I see that Torker has a new model that uses the SA S2C. I believe it's called the KB-11 and it looks like a very nice bike.
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Old 09-16-10, 08:20 PM
  #53  
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I'm about to build an S2C wheel for my Dahon Uno - anyone have a rim recommendation? I'm thinking Sun CR-18, but this will be my first 20" wheel, so don't know about other options.

Thanks -
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Old 09-16-10, 08:42 PM
  #54  
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Check this out http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...-of-old-an-new
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Old 09-22-10, 08:48 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by SesameCrunch View Post
I would love to see a picture of a Brompton without the cables going to the back. Do you have a picture you can share?
+1!

We demand Sturmey-S2C-on-Brompton pr0n!
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Old 09-22-10, 11:13 AM
  #56  
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Annoying that the aluminum isn't a drop in replacement for the steel (it requires different spoke lengths).

Originally Posted by meb View Post
I noticed there are S3X 13T cogs for 3/32 chain. Will the S3X cogs work ok (assuming the ratio works) on the three kickback 2 speeds Sturmey has?
Are there any 3/32 chain compatible cogs for the Sturmey kickbacks in the 16-20T range?
Brompton makes a 13T cog for 3/32 chain which is compatible with the S2C and all other hubs that use the traditional 3-spline (ie basically IGH except the S3X, Sturmey 8-speed, and the Rohloff).

I have a spare I'd be happy to sell you. It will be much cheaper from me than any of the usual suppliers because I'll send it in a regular envelope USPS first class. PM me if interested.
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Old 09-22-10, 02:35 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by lexm View Post
+1!

We demand Sturmey-S2C-on-Brompton pr0n!
These are the only pictures I have of the Brompton with the S2C. I remember taking one without cables, brakes, feders, but I do not know where it go

I sold the wheel, so I won't be able to take another picture. I am waiting for the S2 to come out, but I have an Alfine 11 on pre order. Whichever comes first will go into the B
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Old 09-23-10, 12:11 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by chucky View Post
Annoying that the aluminum isn't a drop in replacement for the steel (it requires different spoke lengths).
Sure, but an aluminium shell the same size as the steel shell wouldn't be strong enough, would it? Flange would be too thin and small.
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Old 09-23-10, 09:53 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Sammyboy View Post
Sure, but an aluminium shell the same size as the steel shell wouldn't be strong enough, would it? Flange would be too thin and small.
I don't see why the thickness of the metal used would need to affect the location of the holes or the width of the flange.
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Old 09-23-10, 03:21 PM
  #60  
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I laced my S2C to a vntage Nishiki 700c bike (so can't post pics here). Hub works well but makes some noises when I brake. Like maybe not enough grease in the brake drum maybe. Anyone else having this issue?
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Old 09-24-10, 08:22 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by SesameCrunch View Post
I laced my S2C to a vntage Nishiki 700c bike (so can't post pics here). Hub works well but makes some noises when I brake. Like maybe not enough grease in the brake drum maybe. Anyone else having this issue?
Post away with the pics!! The Nishiki sounds like an terrific ride.. the S2C could be a perfect hub for a folder, so right on topic!!
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Old 09-25-10, 07:25 AM
  #62  
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Has anyone here used an S2C on a Dahon Mu Uno? If so, I would be interested in hearing how you (1) compensated for the small difference in OLD between the hub and the frame and (2) attached the brake arm (the SA arm is longer than the Shimano that come with the bike).

I'm sure that I can fix both of these issues with a drill and creative use of the washers that come with the hub, but am hoping for a more elegant solution.

Thanks -

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Old 09-25-10, 06:15 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by BruceMetras View Post
Post away with the pics!! The Nishiki sounds like an terrific ride.. the S2C could be a perfect hub for a folder, so right on topic!!
How can I say no to Maestro Bruce ....

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Old 09-27-10, 08:28 AM
  #64  
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This -

http://http://www.torkerusa.com/bike...life/2011-kb2-

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Old 09-27-10, 08:31 AM
  #65  
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Kb2

http://www.torkerusa.com/bikes/commuter-life/2011-kb2-


This is interesting.
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Old 10-03-10, 04:08 PM
  #66  
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What’s up SesameCrunch. Just did the conversion of a mercier kilo tt to and Mercier Kilo S2c. I used a 16t cog and ohh my god it is so hard to pedal with this setup. So I ordered an 18t cog. I hope it really makes a difference.
What Size Is your Cog?
When I test rode it I had some intermediate clicking noise when I break. It drove me nuts because some time it clicks and some times it does not. I traced the issue and found that if I double break, it does the clicking noises.
Mines for some reasons is hard to pedal for some reasons, as if the coaster break is partially always on. It is not smooth.
Do you think it needs a break-in period?


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Old 10-03-10, 04:41 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Bibois View Post
What’s up SesameCrunch. Just did the conversion of a mercier kilo tt to and Mercier Kilo S2c. I used a 16t cog and ohh my god it is so hard to pedal with this setup. So I ordered an 18t cog. I hope it really makes a difference.
What Size Is your Cog?
When I test rode it I had some intermediate clicking noise when I break. It drove me nuts because some time it clicks and some times it does not. I traced the issue and found that if I double break, it does the clicking noises.
Mines for some reasons is hard to pedal for some reasons, as if the coaster break is partially always on. It is not smooth.
Do you think it needs a break-in period?


I have an 18t cog with 39t ring. It works well for me.

Yeah, I get noise when I brake also. It sounds like metal straining. I'm guessing that it's the newness of the brake drum, or not enough grease there. I don't know for sure. Like you, I'm hoping it'll break in over time. If it doesn't quit in a few months, I'll take it apart and find out the cause.

I'm loving the hub otherwise, though.
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Old 10-03-10, 06:42 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by SesameCrunch View Post
I have an 18t cog with 39t ring. It works well for me.

Yeah, I get noise when I brake also. It sounds like metal straining. I'm guessing that it's the newness of the brake drum, or not enough grease there. I don't know for sure. Like you, I'm hoping it'll break in over time. If it doesn't quit in a few months, I'll take it apart and find out the cause.

I'm loving the hub otherwise, though.
Sorry I never mentioned my ring size. It is 48, It is pretty much flat where I live. Any ratio recommendation? I noticed you live in SF which is pretty hilly from what I know. Another thing driving me crazy. So the hub is 100% direct drive first gear, and then 138% second gear. What does direct drive means? you are using 39/18=2.167 ~ 2.167 * 1.38=2.99.
So your direct drive is 2.167 and your second gear is 3 or it is the other way around?

Go Jets!!!!
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Old 10-04-10, 01:36 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Bibois View Post
Sorry I never mentioned my ring size. It is 48, It is pretty much flat where I live. Any ratio recommendation? I noticed you live in SF which is pretty hilly from what I know. Another thing driving me crazy. So the hub is 100% direct drive first gear, and then 138% second gear. What does direct drive means? you are using 39/18=2.167 ~ 2.167 * 1.38=2.99.
So your direct drive is 2.167 and your second gear is 3 or it is the other way around?

Go Jets!!!!
If you're running 48t rings, then with the 18t cog, you'll have 70 and 95 gear inches. Everyone is different, so you'll have to decide what's right. For me, I would prefer something like 55 and 75. But, I'm an old fart. You sound like a young guy....

Direct drive is what you described.
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Old 10-10-10, 03:03 PM
  #70  
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PARKING BRAKE?
After several inquiries about how to disengage this hub's parking brake, SA could only tell me the hubs are shipped with very tight bearing cones to protect them during shipping. After a month of ownership, I adjusted what I could-the drive side cone 3 times. After several inquiries, including searching this forum, I was feeling helpless and alone.... I disected my hub, couldn't find any defect. At this point I had to send a nasty gram to SA to get through. SA then rush delivered me new hub guts and lent me the obscure wrench so I could figure it out-which I did. I can't figure why the two sentences (23mm cone wrench, cones on BOTH sides) were so difficult to convey during all my inquiries. There's not even a diagram posted to figure it out on your own. Suppose that's the catch to buying new products.

WARNING: If you plan to own, sell, or service the S2C/B2C hubs, I would recommend you budget an additional week to order a $10, obscure 23mm cone wrench. If your not feeling like wrenching, order it anyways, your local bike shop mechanic won't have one. I have published a series of blog posts describing my B2C project

The drive side cone needs a 16mm cone wrench, non-drive a 23mm cone wrench. Lock nuts for cones are 17mm and....larger than my tools (channel locks for me)

Hub is FUN! -hope this advice is helpful and prevents the agony I experienced. SA, I'll be sending you a bill for my customer service work.

Last edited by nonale; 10-10-10 at 03:35 PM. Reason: Titling, order
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Old 10-15-10, 10:25 AM
  #71  
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Does anyone have any rim recommendations for a 700c rim? I got my red s2c and sturmey red front hub in and I'm itching to get started. I'm also waiting on some red Sturmey FCT-64 cranks to come in to finish up the drive train.
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Old 10-15-10, 10:09 PM
  #72  
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nooby observation ahead... so perusing that s-archer website, it looks like swapping an 8 speed hub for a 5 or 3 speed, immediately loses about 2 lbs of weight. Is that a common way to reduce weight on a bike?

[update: nevermind, answered my own question. In the long run I think I can get the curve sl down under 20lbs.]

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Old 10-16-10, 05:27 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by nonale View Post
SA could only tell me the hubs are shipped with very tight bearing cones...
Adjusting any new hub's bearings is pretty much SOP. Bike Mechanics 101.

I adjusted what I could-the drive side cone 3 times.
Yeah, that probably didn't work out too well, since Sturmey hub axle bearings have adjusted with the non-drive side cone for, oh, the last 108 years or so. That'll be in any repair manual or web site that covers Sturmey hubs.

...the obscure wrench...
Google. 0.35 seconds, multiple sources. My LBS has them; yours may not.

If you're not feeling like wrenching, order it anyway; your local bike shop mechanic won't have one.
This size cone wrench is also used on Shimano thru-axle mountain bike hubs. One will come in the Park Tools Shop Cone Wrench Set.

Best,
tcs

Last edited by tcs; 10-16-10 at 05:31 AM.
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Old 10-18-10, 07:24 PM
  #74  
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FULL REPORT on my B2C Beach Cruiser Project
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Old 11-14-10, 08:29 PM
  #75  
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Junky Rusty Bikes in Long Beach CA sells either a 700C rear wheel with the SC2 hub for $125.00 or the complete wheelset for $175.00.

Just bolt it on and ride!

That's cool!
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