Sturmey Archer S2C + More
#102
Full Member
Here's my S2C laced 3x with 32 DT Swiss 1.8/1.6 spokes in a (406) Velocity Aeroheat rim:
I recognize that I've put the cart before the horse, but I built this in anticipation of getting a Dahon Mu Uno this spring. If that doesn't come together, however, I'll put it on my Dahon Boardwalk S1.
Using two online spoke-length calculators it looked like 183 mm spokes would be the perfect length, but I wish I went with 181 mm (both lengths were available). With the 183's I'm at a lower tension than I'd like, and they're close to bottoming out. That said, I'm not losing sleep over it -- I figure with 32 spokes on a 20" wheel I'll be okay at lower tension than I'd want on an otherwise similar but 700c-sized wheel. If I start breaking spokes, then I'll rebuild As it is, however, I've already spent too much on this project!
I recognize that I've put the cart before the horse, but I built this in anticipation of getting a Dahon Mu Uno this spring. If that doesn't come together, however, I'll put it on my Dahon Boardwalk S1.
Using two online spoke-length calculators it looked like 183 mm spokes would be the perfect length, but I wish I went with 181 mm (both lengths were available). With the 183's I'm at a lower tension than I'd like, and they're close to bottoming out. That said, I'm not losing sleep over it -- I figure with 32 spokes on a 20" wheel I'll be okay at lower tension than I'd want on an otherwise similar but 700c-sized wheel. If I start breaking spokes, then I'll rebuild As it is, however, I've already spent too much on this project!
Last edited by Derailed; 02-16-12 at 09:23 AM.
#103
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#104
You gonna eat that?
I recently built a non-folder with an S2 hub. I got the whole 700C wheel from CL. The frame is a 1983 Raleigh Marathon.
Still getting used to the shifting, but no anomalies yet.
Still getting used to the shifting, but no anomalies yet.
#105
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Electric hybrid conversion with S2C hub
Hi all,
I just finished modifying my commuter with electric kit. It has S2C hub, though its not a folding bike. I think its a good combo to have an electric wheel at the front and a rear S2C hub. Hub seems to be working better now after initial break-in period ( a two-three hundred km).
I have more info about the bike here:
https://uglyplastik.blogspot.ca/
I just finished modifying my commuter with electric kit. It has S2C hub, though its not a folding bike. I think its a good combo to have an electric wheel at the front and a rear S2C hub. Hub seems to be working better now after initial break-in period ( a two-three hundred km).
I have more info about the bike here:
https://uglyplastik.blogspot.ca/
#106
Banned
Moulton, separable, with an S2c, and a Schlumpf 2 speed crank ,
sets up a 4 gear bike with no cables.
sets up a 4 gear bike with no cables.
#108
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That is sweet. I wonder what the brick color tire would look like on it?
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Speed Uno
Dawes Kingpin 2speed
Speed Uno
Dawes Kingpin 2speed
#109
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#110
Full Member
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I'm wondering how many folks are still using their Sturmey Archer S2C based wheels. I was glad to try to try it out, but ultimately decided that the shifting didn't work that well, and overall it wasn't worth the extra weight. I actually just listed mine on eBay, but I'll be surprised if there's much interest in such a wheel!
#111
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Hi all,
I just finished modifying my commuter with electric kit. It has S2C hub, though its not a folding bike. I think its a good combo to have an electric wheel at the front and a rear S2C hub. Hub seems to be working better now after initial break-in period ( a two-three hundred km).
I have more info about the bike here:
Making bicycle from scratch
I just finished modifying my commuter with electric kit. It has S2C hub, though its not a folding bike. I think its a good combo to have an electric wheel at the front and a rear S2C hub. Hub seems to be working better now after initial break-in period ( a two-three hundred km).
I have more info about the bike here:
Making bicycle from scratch
#112
Senior Member
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I'm wondering how many folks are still using their Sturmey Archer S2C based wheels. I was glad to try to try it out, but ultimately decided that the shifting didn't work that well, and overall it wasn't worth the extra weight. I actually just listed mine on eBay, but I'll be surprised if there's much interest in such a wheel!
#113
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Just got one
Just bought a used bike with the S2C hub. I like it and seems to work ok. I don't think it has very many miles on it. It does click as I pedal only in the high gear (the harder gear) and the coaster brake isn't very effective. It slows me down, but definitely not locking up, or stopping quickly. Wondering if they're all like that? Maybe it needs to break in still? Maybe has more miles than I think it does? I have no idea. Thanks!
#114
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Just bought a used bike with the S2C hub. I like it and seems to work ok. I don't think it has very many miles on it. It does click as I pedal only in the high gear (the harder gear) and the coaster brake isn't very effective. It slows me down, but definitely not locking up, or stopping quickly. Wondering if they're all like that? Maybe it needs to break in still? Maybe has more miles than I think it does? I have no idea. Thanks!
#115
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Clicking in high gear is normal.. ineffective brake is not.. the knock on this hub when they came out was the coaster brake locked up too easily, did not modulate well.. this compared to the Sram/Sachs hubs which had much better feel.. there might have been an updated hub that addressed the modulation problem .. Sturmey Archer USA could probably shed some light on it.. they were always very responsive..
#116
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Clicking in high gear is normal.. ineffective brake is not.. the knock on this hub when they came out was the coaster brake locked up too easily, did not modulate well.. this compared to the Sram/Sachs hubs which had much better feel.. there might have been an updated hub that addressed the modulation problem .. Sturmey Archer USA could probably shed some light on it.. they were always very responsive..
Could you please expand on your comment "...the coaster brake locked up too easily, did not modulate well..."?
Do you mean that the coaster brake would literally lock up (as if the rider was standing on the brake, like in a skid)?
Also, at what point was the reported issue occurring, was it locking up during normal braking or locking up when shifting?
I currently have a new 700c wheel laced up to a B2C hub and I plan on mounting it to my old beater Montague Bi-Frame full-sized folder.... I'm just wondering if I'm in for trouble with this hub?
#118
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Hey Bruce,
Could you please expand on your comment "...the coaster brake locked up too easily, did not modulate well..."?
Do you mean that the coaster brake would literally lock up (as if the rider was standing on the brake, like in a skid)?
Also, at what point was the reported issue occurring, was it locking up during normal braking or locking up when shifting?
I currently have a new 700c wheel laced up to a B2C hub and I plan on mounting it to my old beater Montague Bi-Frame full-sized folder.... I'm just wondering if I'm in for trouble with this hub?
Could you please expand on your comment "...the coaster brake locked up too easily, did not modulate well..."?
Do you mean that the coaster brake would literally lock up (as if the rider was standing on the brake, like in a skid)?
Also, at what point was the reported issue occurring, was it locking up during normal braking or locking up when shifting?
I currently have a new 700c wheel laced up to a B2C hub and I plan on mounting it to my old beater Montague Bi-Frame full-sized folder.... I'm just wondering if I'm in for trouble with this hub?
#119
Senior Member
The downside is that whenever you hit the brake, you also shift. It can be accommodated by doing a shift, half-pedal, brake routine when coming to a stop, but there are plenty of times I've ended up in high gear at a stop. It's exacerbated by the fact that you can't backpedal to engage the next shift due to the brake. Half the time, it works in my favor -- high gear approaching a stop, brake, low gear to start out again. S/A also makes a freewheel version of the hub, with no coaster brake, which might be a better compromise depending on your needs.
#121
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Update.....I've been emailing back and forth with David there, and turns out the hub I have is one they had problems with, built in 2013 he said. So he's sending me out new internals! Very cool, I wasn't expecting anything like that. Hopefully it'll be semi simple to replace and then I'll have a brake!! I'll post an update after the rebuild.
#122
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Update.....I've been emailing back and forth with David there, and turns out the hub I have is one they had problems with, built in 2013 he said. So he's sending me out new internals! Very cool, I wasn't expecting anything like that. Hopefully it'll be semi simple to replace and then I'll have a brake!! I'll post an update after the rebuild.
#123
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It was pretty messy, but yeah easy swap. I've only ridden it up and down the street, but it seems like I put back together right! Brake works better, actually skidded a couple times. I did notice while I had it in the workstand that when I pedaled back to apply the brake, there was the initial friction of the brake, then if I pushed more there was another "step" kinda. Hard to explain, but I could feel another catch in the braking. Maybe the other hub was like that too and I just never noticed. Or it could have something to do with being new? I'll have to ride it and see how it does. I really need to get rid of the tires with the giant knobs first! More of a street tread is what I need.