My Qile Duo lives again as a single speed!
#1
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Thread Starter
My Qile Duo lives again as a single speed!
Most of you may remember the fiasco the local bike shop created when I took my folder in for a simple inner tube replacement, which caused the rear axle to be ruined. Well I decided to to get my bike back on the road again without their help.
So I made the decision to convert my 5 speed setup to a single speed. I ordered a complete rear wheel through eBay, but it took longer than I anticipated because it was delievered to the wrong address! Luckily, the wheel was at a neighbor's home just across the street.
I started on this project this mid afternoon, and completed it in just over an hour and a half. Here is the result:
I took off the fenders, and kickstand. I wanted this to be a "no nonsense", beater or errand bike. The new wheel came with a 16 tooth cog. With the 46 tooth chain wheel, the final drive ratio is about 55 gear inches.
I did take the bike for a 2-3 mile ride, and I find that it pedals a "bit stiff". Maybe after the hub breaks in, it'll lossen up. I actually bought the chain at Walmart, and it was perfect. I didn't need to add or remove links.
Overall I am quite pleased, and it's more fun to ride. The coaster brake is way stronger than the band brake it replaced. With the front caliper, I have all the braking power I need.
By the way, in the last photo you can bearly see the brake arm, and the light gray object just over the arm is the plastic clip that holds on to the fork blade to help keep the bike together when folded.
It looks like this "old" bike is going to be around for a long time!
So I made the decision to convert my 5 speed setup to a single speed. I ordered a complete rear wheel through eBay, but it took longer than I anticipated because it was delievered to the wrong address! Luckily, the wheel was at a neighbor's home just across the street.
I started on this project this mid afternoon, and completed it in just over an hour and a half. Here is the result:
I took off the fenders, and kickstand. I wanted this to be a "no nonsense", beater or errand bike. The new wheel came with a 16 tooth cog. With the 46 tooth chain wheel, the final drive ratio is about 55 gear inches.
I did take the bike for a 2-3 mile ride, and I find that it pedals a "bit stiff". Maybe after the hub breaks in, it'll lossen up. I actually bought the chain at Walmart, and it was perfect. I didn't need to add or remove links.
Overall I am quite pleased, and it's more fun to ride. The coaster brake is way stronger than the band brake it replaced. With the front caliper, I have all the braking power I need.
By the way, in the last photo you can bearly see the brake arm, and the light gray object just over the arm is the plastic clip that holds on to the fork blade to help keep the bike together when folded.
It looks like this "old" bike is going to be around for a long time!
#2
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Hi Ed, the hub shouldn't have to break in or be stiff to pedal.. you might want to check the cone adjustment nuts to make sure the hub is not bound up (too tight).. also, looking at your picture, with the rear suspension pivot behind the BB, the chain will probably tighten significantly when your weight is on the saddle and you are riding it (that could create some stiffness).. just a couple of things to look at... btw, do you still have the old rear axle? are the threads really damaged? typically, the axle threads are much harder than the nut's.. normally, the nuts are designed to strip to save the axle.. good job on saving the bike for further use.
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Hi,
I found out that I mounted the wheel a bit off and the tire was rubbing the inside of the chainstay for about a 1/4 rotation. The wheel spins very true but the tire is not seated in perfectly. I flipped the bike on it's back, loosened the nuts, and re-adjusted the axle so that the wheel was straight in between the stays. Once that was done, I turned the crank several times, and the wheel spun much better, and for a longer time. It should spin for over a minute but it doesn't. I will look into checking the cones tomorrow.
I did take the bike to run an errand to the supermarket after that, and it felt easier to pedal...but I am also going to check to see how the suspension affects chain tension. Keep in mind that Qile Duo does make suspended, single speed bikes, using the same type of frame, so it must work well enough.
So far, it's been a fun project. This is still a work in progress!
I found out that I mounted the wheel a bit off and the tire was rubbing the inside of the chainstay for about a 1/4 rotation. The wheel spins very true but the tire is not seated in perfectly. I flipped the bike on it's back, loosened the nuts, and re-adjusted the axle so that the wheel was straight in between the stays. Once that was done, I turned the crank several times, and the wheel spun much better, and for a longer time. It should spin for over a minute but it doesn't. I will look into checking the cones tomorrow.
I did take the bike to run an errand to the supermarket after that, and it felt easier to pedal...but I am also going to check to see how the suspension affects chain tension. Keep in mind that Qile Duo does make suspended, single speed bikes, using the same type of frame, so it must work well enough.
So far, it's been a fun project. This is still a work in progress!
Hi Ed, the hub shouldn't have to break in or be stiff to pedal.. you might want to check the cone adjustment nuts to make sure the hub is not bound up (too tight).. also, looking at your picture, with the rear suspension pivot behind the BB, the chain will probably tighten significantly when your weight is on the saddle and you are riding it (that could create some stiffness).. just a couple of things to look at... btw, do you still have the old rear axle? are the threads really damaged? typically, the axle threads are much harder than the nut's.. normally, the nuts are designed to strip to save the axle.. good job on saving the bike for further use.
#4
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Thread Starter
Yes the axle threads are destroyed! I could not believe it! I questioned the bike mechanic at least three times about that, and he tried to give me some explanation about the axle not being long enough for all the bolt on accessories (kickstand, rack eyelets, fender eyelets, derailleur hanger, etc.). I gave him the benefit of the doubt, but don't see how I can let them work on my bikes in the future.
#5
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Looks good! Keep going at getting the wheel to coast smoothly. I'm not sure how long it should spin, that depends on how fast it started out, and coaster brakes are usually not as free spinning due to loads of grease inside. If assembled correctly, it will get better as the grease gets settled in. (A pro racer told me they would ride with no grease at all to minimise rolling resistance from grease drag!)
#6
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Thread Starter
I have always believed that poorly designed suspension does rob power from the cyclist. This morning I checked to see if the chain tightens significantly when I put my weight on the bike. I couldn't detect that it caused the chain to change it's tension. I don't think the arc the chainstay assembly moves as it compresses is enough to do that but somehow, it does take some efficiency away.
#7
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Thread Starter
Looks good! Keep going at getting the wheel to coast smoothly. I'm not sure how long it should spin, that depends on how fast it started out, and coaster brakes are usually not as free spinning due to loads of grease inside. If assembled correctly, it will get better as the grease gets settled in. (A pro racer told me they would ride with no grease at all to minimise rolling resistance from grease drag!)
I remember reading somewhere on Sheldon Brown's website that coaster brake hubs do have more friction than a freewheel or freehub due to the grease. But it does improve like you said after significant use.